JoeyB

The 1960 Corvette (`58 through `60) is my all time favorite. It will come to either one of those or the latest C6. The C4 was a world class car, and the C5 better. My first Corvette was a `65 which was the same chassis/suspension/handling as the `68, so I understand what you are saying. But the C6 will out-handle and outperform an SL.

The dial is one I made using a water slide decal.

Nanuq, I'm a bit out of touch anymore, but as I recall the Viper not only outperformed the Ferrari, but did 203 mph from the factory. I'm looking to change the 'fleet' in the next few months, but will likely stay with another Mercedes for my everyday car. But I think a Corvette will replace the SL.

Nicely done. The crown makes a huge difference.

American Iron was like that, but today's American cars rival Europe and Japan's cars in handling, dependability, and of course are #1 in the world. At the time the old muscle cars were pretty much only great in a straight line, Brit cars had electrical systems that were a step down from a cigarette company lab rat on a hamster wheel, Italian cars introduced us to the world's first disposable cars, Japanese cars rusted through by your 4th car payment, German Cars used as taxi cabs in Europe sold here for more than Cadillacs, and then there was the Yugo. I didn't mention the Peugeot or the Renault. I'm trying to be nice...

They've changed since I got mine, but it looks like this one from Joshua http://www.1-pc8838.com/rlsv10029-vintage-james-bond-6205-ssnato-a2836-p-9099.html Mine is engraved 5508 and 6538 in between the lugs. Yeah, both!

This is my homemade date wheel. It is set up for ETA and DG movements. It might need a number or two adjusted some, as whenever I adjust the size it is sometimes a tad off. Using my photo program I literally 'plucked' the numbers from a genuine datewheel picking the number like when you crop a picture, then copy and paste it on a picture of a date wheel, turning the number as needed left or right.

By 1959 the Impala was top of the line, Bel Air 2nd in trim packages. `55, `56 and `57 were Bel Air's 'best' years, though I really did like the 'cats eye' look on the 1959. From 1958 on the Bel Air was offered only in sedan form , 2 door or 4 door except in 1962 when it was offered in a very limited 2 door 'bubble top, supposed to be for racing.

What year Chevy Bel Air?

I used the cartel case for this one that I made into a 6204. Swiss ETA2846 non hacking and modified to two position stem. Since that pic I've beveled the edges.

Thank you! Yes. I dug out all the white down to the chrome 'housing'(?). Then I put lume in the bottom and mixed up some 5 minute epoxy from the double push-pump tube thing. One drop on a toothpick touched it right in. It self limits to the edge and rounded nicely. It lumes just a bit. The thing that's nice is that if you are a little shaky, as I can be sometimes, and if you miss a bit, a rag wetted with paint thinner like naptha cleans it out and you get a do-over.

I did the drop of epoxy with a touch of lume underneath and got the aged look in the pearl I wanted. It's very easy to do.

Those look like quotation marks to me. And the conversation was going on between us. It is my opinion that the ETA and Asian movements that are modified to be GMT by our Asian rep factories are not as accurate or reliable as the movements that are designed to be GMT from the movement manufacturer. The modified movements work well enough for our purposes, but that isn't the issue. I haven't read anyone say that the rep factory modified GMT movements are "junk", but then I haven't read every word here. I have read that the GMT 4th hand does not track perfectly, needing an adjustment every now and then, and I know that is true on the ETA/Asian modified GMT movements I own, including the serviced Swiss ETA 2846 movements I've converted myself. I have found through my own experience that the DG3804B movements that I have purchased new from reliable suppliers such as Frei and Borel are more accurate and reliable than the modified ETA/Asian movements.

I think that is most correct.

Actually, it is STUPID to misquote me. And it is QUITE STUPID to call anything "stupid" when it's you who did not comprehend what was said. We will disagree, and I will stand by what I did say.

I don't think so. Our Asian friends make a GMT modified DG2813, I think that all the movement manufacturers, ETA, Rolex, DG, use their base movement to design their GMT on. As you point out, none of the 3 just add a pinion and a couple of gears to the movement as the rep ones do. So saying it being designed as a GMT from the start should be correct.

We are at the top of the heap of those who try to make a silk purse from a sow's ear. Though some do get really, really close!

I'll make certain to look at it and say, "Oh, another 1675. Nice..." Lol!

The DG movement takes different size hour, minute and second hands than the ETA or genuine Rolex. I'd bet Yuki's would not fit, I don't believe he has any for the Chinese movements. I thinkl RafflesTime is the best bet.

When we discussed it I said that if you had a problem it would be the balance assembly. I had hoped that after cleaning and setting it would last a while. I'm sorry it did not. I have to wonder if PureTime would send you a balance assembly at no charge if asked.

The hand stack for ALL ETA GMT movements, Chinese converted or the top ETA2893-2 is the GMT 4th hand on the bottom, then the hour hand, then the minute hand and then the second hand.

20 movements?

I use OFrei. Is there anyone in Europe that has them. Cousins? One other thing, you might want to get RolexAddict's opinion too as he did your case, and he knows it best.

The ETA 2893-2 is a great movement, some watchmakers say it is at least as good a movement as the Rolex. BUT...it takes a great deal of skill to fit it to our rep cases. If you use a genuine dial (refinished, repainted, etc) then you will have to get taller pinions. The GMT hand will not have enough to 'bite' on the pinion for mounting. Then you will need to use a dial mount, the ring in between the dial and the movement, to line up the stem correctly. If the stem is off, the movement will either not run, or eventually - as in weeks - stop running. Then you have to go back to the dial and see if you have enough pinion to mount the GMT hand again. It is a back and forth, trial and error process even for the highly skilled members here. And then, on occasion, you might get it all to fit with no modifying at all. I had this movement in my first 6542. I loved it, and was lucky in that it fit easily enough. I have since replaced it with the slow-beat ETA 2846 converted to GMT. It is more appropriate for the older watch, and I love the movement because it just keeps on going and going. I've since put ETA 2846 movements in my other 1950's watches. BUT...my next build, a 1675, will use the DG3804B. I am convinced it is the BEST movement we can use. Most of us, myself included, came to the rep forums looking for the 'Best' rep we could get. It was in my mind, and I think most others, that the Chinese movement was a cheap POS and Swiss was the one I wanted. Most of us now know that the reps likely don't have genuine Swiss movements even when claimed, and the Asian 2836-2 is the smart buy anyway because it is cheaper and uses the same parts so it can be serviced just as a Swiss is. But the DG3804B is a GMT designed movement, from the ground up. No adapting, no gears just a hair off, no parts added that were never designed by the manufacturer. It is as dependable as any Swiss movement. And the kicker for me is that the DG3804B can be had for less than $25 usd. And when it is time for a service, long about 5 years from now, the Swiss will cost more than $200usd to have serviced, and the DG3804B I will remove myself, place on the bench, smash it with a ball pein hammer, and install a new one for $25usd. Everyone makes their own decisions what they want, and no one's decision is wrong. And it's obvious that you are frustrated with your build. You are not alone. Most all of us get the same way at one point or another in building a project. When you get PO'd, put it down and walk away. I literally threw my first build across the room against the wall. If I had my .45 handy I'd `a shot the SOB! I don't do that any more. Instead I go off and relax. If I were in Scotland, as you are, I'd build lots of watches because you've got enough Scots Whiskey just outside your door to cover all the pratfalls. Then come here anbd ask. There are so many here to help. You'll get this done, and love it. Just be patient, we're here.

If two were, I'd check with who you bought them from. ETA/Asian 2836-2 GMT converted movements can be bought from some of our suppliers. Rafflestime has the DG3804B GMT, but I don't know if he has the ETA, you'd need to ask him. Make certain to mention RWG, it helps. rouhelena has them new, but they've almost doubled in price since a few months ago, over $200usd. That's too much. There might be a member here who has one.