JoeyB

Does anyone know how accurate it might be for a 6538, 5508 or 6542? raffles-time 6538 case

Looking very good! I can do the round markers just fine, but the straight and triangle are my problem. I can't seem to make a straight line or stay in the lines. I'm getting better, I'm doing it freehand but now use a nib and nib holder to 'draw' with. Do you and Andy use any special tool or straightedge to make those markers? Straight pin or toothpicks?

Yep, once the image is set in your file, you can resize and print as big or small as you like.

Yep. The Tudor uses an ETA movement.

Yep, the gen date wheels vary the size of the number. I'd recommend using a setting solution. I use 'Micro Set' after roughing up the surface a bit. With just water mine did curl on the edges, and/or peeled. With the solution, it's on very firm, almost like painted, and it gets taught as it dries.

Oh, the pain! Lol! I got most of them. The others give it 'character'!

"Finsished" ?? I spell-checked the date wheels...they're good.

Back when I got my first rep GMT, the only combination I liked was the 'coke' on Oyster. I did not like the look of the 'Pepsi' nor did I like the Jubilee or the riveted Oyster. How things have changed. My favorite now is Pepsi on a Jubilee, riveted a close runner up. I blame all of you. Fortunately, with replicas I can afford to be fickle...

I don't, but when using the inkjet it does give a 'raised' print. It looks absolutely great. But then upon drying and sealing, that raised looks is diminished. If there is a way to get that to stay, it'd be super.

I have not tried the laser-jet water-slide decal paper. I was told by the manufacturer I've been using that the laser-jet is not as crisp as ink-jet. I don't know, so I'll be waiting for your results. My first ink-jet prints were done at 2400dpi, and came out very good, not blotchy, using a HP pretty basic printer. I bought a new printer last March, a Canon that prints up to 9000 dpi. More is better, right? Nope! Using the highest resolution, 'best quality' setting, high end photo paper setting, the reds all came out blotchy, the ink almost 'puddled'! The other colors were better, but not great. I tried all sorts of combination settings, and settled on 5000dpi on 'glossy photo paper' setting to get a solid and crisp print. I think that means quality will vary by printer and printer settings. Also, the decal paper manufacturer recommends using 'Krylon Crystal Clear' to seal the decal. I had used the decal spray but experienced ink bleeding. It would take 10 days+ for the ink to dry and not bleed. With the Krylon I have no bleeding after 2 hours of the print. It comes in gloss, satin and matte, and the big can is under $4 at my local Walmart. I did my date wheel in gloss, and it doesn't look right. I'd suggest satin. For dials, gloss or satin, depending on what the gen was, works well.

I have had the same issue, and decided to relume the hands. It's very easy to do, not like luming a dial. Take the hands you have that fit, and use acetone to remove the old lume. Then I mount each hand on a toothpick and stick the toothpick in a lump of clay or RODICO. I use RODICO because I was told I just had to have it, and have found no other use for the stuff. So, now the 3 or 4 hands are sitting horizontal on the upright toothpick. At this point you use whatever lume you choose. I bought a product called 'Glo-Paint', under $5 at the local art supply store. It is whitish-glowish-greenish. It is a WATER BASED acrylic. I then bought a kid's acrylic water color tin. the kind that is dried in the tray and use water to make the mess for 99¢ at the dollar store. I mix a very tiny bit of whatever color, usually brown, to get the shade I want. Then take a toothpick, dip it in the colored Glow-Paint to get a good drop on it. I start at the end of the hand with the hole, at the toothpick it's mounted on, and from UNDERNEATH run the drop straight out to the tip, filling the open space. No pressure is needed, the liquid will fill it naturally. With very little practice you won't even have any cleanup on the hands. And if you mess it up, it's water based, wipe it all off with a wet paper towel and do it again. The lume is not a 'super lume' at all, and about as strong and long lasting as the Chinese lume is. So far the oldest one I have was done two years ago last month, and it's still holding up fine. I imagine some day it will start to disintegrate, and likely look like old Tritium!

I've been told to NEVER use 'Crazy Glue' or 'Super Glue' inside the case. The fumes are supposedly toxic to the movement. I use a 5 minute epoxy, and I cheat using an old movement body to line it up.

I'm not clear on why you needed to layer the dial tape. You don't say if the stem is too high or low. But what I have done is to take the spacer down, thin it out a bit, using emery cloth on a sanding block. I did it the tedious way, measure the thickness, take it down, measure, fit, remove, take it down a bit more, etc. It won't take much for the GMT hand to clear the dial, so the stem position will be your guiding factor.

Clark's has pearls, and Otto Frei has them too. How do you age the thing? I've tried the torch flame, and a yellowed varnish, but no joy yet. Any other methods?

Is it actually engraved, or printed? I removed the printing on one.

The genuine Rolex GMT 4th hand is the same size as the ETA 2893-2.

£20,000 = $32,869 for a Submariner? I need to become an AD.

I agree, it's a 21J movement, and you likely messed up the keyless works. You can check the archives to attempt to fix it yourself, or find a rep friendly watchsmith. Harbor Freight also has a set of 'Easy outs' screw extractors. The small one will fit the crown tube to unscrew it with no damage to it. I'd suggest using UV cement for your crystal. freddy333 suggested it and it works great. Every one I've done since has been water tight.

I have a rep Big Crown on my 6204 (same reason you gave!) pictured above. I'd trade it for a 5.3mm or 6mm Brevet '+' crown. Or you can get a rep big Brevet from Davidsenjpn, last I heard about $50, and I get left out again...

Lollipop lollipop Oh lolli lolli lolli Lollipop lollipop.....

Oops! Wrong placement of the decimal! Good catch! It should read 1.70mm, Sorry.

Genuine Rolex GMT hand is .17mm. What are the sizes for the other 3 gen hands?

It's a shame they don't have a Tropic crystal the same size and shape as a 25-116. Then we could install the no cyclops Tropic crystal, and install the cyclops after in any position we need for wherever the date window is. The sapphire crystal 25-295 is the same size and shape of the 25-295C and C2 , but with no crystal, so we can put the cyclops anywhere using that setup. Makes it more convenient for us.

The GMT 4th hand for the ETA 2893-2 is the same size, 1.7mm, as the Rolex GMT. The other hands are different.

Like everything else, it depends on the installation. The cyclops looks the same as the gen. I'd suggest following the directions using UV cement. It doesn't set until UV rays hit it, so that allows room for 'do-overs'. One drop, centered as best you can on the cyclops, position it on the crystal, light finger press it down, and clean the overages/residue with rubbing alcohol. Once set, if you missed some residue, the alcohol will take that off as well, with just a little effort. I position it and clean it all up after it's set just so I don't move it before hand.