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preacher62

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preacher62 last won the day on December 7 2011

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About preacher62

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    I REALLY like it here!
  • Birthday 03/22/1946

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  1. You can purchase a 3135 for less than $2,800, (if you watch) and you can build a reliable A3135 for less than $1,000 with some gen parts, but it will never be a Rolex 3135. Fewer things in life are finer than a great 1570, 3035 or 3135. They are engineered for a lifetime, with proper care. There was a guy on Antiques Roadshow this week with a GMT (1675, I think). It was given to him by an uncle who wore it through VietNam (bought in PX for $175). This guy wore it through Afghanistan and 17 years of law enforcement. It was still his daily wearer. It was beat up. I doubt the Asian-made movements will do that.
  2. We just have to be tolerant of others. Truth is, there have been subtle manufacturing changes on these that I have noticed in doing the services.
  3. I say Amen to JoeyB. I am 73 years old and drive two late-model Volvos. My favorite rep is a watch that has never been repped. It is a 16013 with everything gen, even the bracelet (except for two links and the clasp) except the movement, hands and dwo. What's to call out. Even my Sub is a TC V7 but has lug holes, a gen dial and hands with just a hint of patina. I put a flat 4 bezel insert on it and voila, a sub that has never been repped. When I say "never been repped" I mean, by a rep manufacturer.
  4. I do not know of it. Where might I check it out.
  5. Thanks Matt! That's what I'm hearing, as well. I've had three of the early movements and out of the three I have one good one, but it is really good.
  6. Have there been any upgrades/improvements made to these movements in past few months. I've had three but only one good one. Also, where might one source one of the movements (with engraved bridges) without buying a watch. I know they are available on the Bay, but not engraved. I inquired about one with engraved bridges but it was an upgrade, at $450.00. Thanks!
  7. Also when you press the ring on, be care what you press against. I have, inadvertently pressed against the balance. Bad...really bad.
  8. Hey, it was a great watch back then, By-Tor. I think you did an extensive review on it. My first sub was a Euromariner from Chris, at Eurotimez. Remember him. Great dealer, That sub morphed into an MBK case, from Chris, then into a TC case, and then got an a3135 movement with gen dial and all that. There is probably some DNA from that old watch in my parts box somewhere...maybe even in the watch...case clamp or something. I’m thankful to RWG for 11 great watches that I have built, over the past ten years, with information from these master builders.
  9. You just responded to a ten year old thread.
  10. Look at 1655s on eBay. Not just 1 but many. Study the way the case comes in on either side of the cgs. They should, at 2 and 4 be just even with the bezel...as you look at it straight on. The cartel cases usually have steel showing outside of the bezel. This is the way to mod a case. Not looking at other reps but at genuine watches.
  11. I have recently purchased two 2824s like that that were sold as high-end and have the Novodiac shock springs, Mine also have mis-matched rotors but it is branded BTC. They are very good movements. Amp approaches 300 in all positions. They are offered on the Bay now.
  12. If that is a question, one cannot use a 16610 case for a 16710. The CGs can’t be fixed. A Sub uses a 7mm crown and a very different tube. The 16710 uses a 5.3 or 6mm from and tube similar to a DateJust crown.
  13. Justin, I still want one of your v2 cases. I’ll take one. I’ll PM you. This is good news.
  14. Another solution... I had the same problem. First, I cleaned the inside of the end link and good as I could, then I took the drill bit that I used to drill the lugs and greased it and then slipped it through the rings. Then, I took JB Weld epoxy and just laid a bead of it across the rings. After it cured you will be able to pull the drill bit out...with pliers. Voila.
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