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preacher62

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preacher62 last won the day on December 7 2011

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About preacher62

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    I REALLY like it here!
  • Birthday 03/22/1946

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  1. Hey, it was a great watch back then, By-Tor. I think you did an extensive review on it. My first sub was a Euromariner from Chris, at Eurotimez. Remember him. Great dealer, That sub morphed into an MBK case, from Chris, then into a TC case, and then got an a3135 movement with gen dial and all that. There is probably some DNA from that old watch in my parts box somewhere...maybe even in the watch...case clamp or something. I’m thankful to RWG for 11 great watches that I have built, over the past ten years, with information from these master builders.
  2. You just responded to a ten year old thread.
  3. Look at 1655s on eBay. Not just 1 but many. Study the way the case comes in on either side of the cgs. They should, at 2 and 4 be just even with the bezel...as you look at it straight on. The cartel cases usually have steel showing outside of the bezel. This is the way to mod a case. Not looking at other reps but at genuine watches.
  4. I have recently purchased two 2824s like that that were sold as high-end and have the Novodiac shock springs, Mine also have mis-matched rotors but it is branded BTC. They are very good movements. Amp approaches 300 in all positions. They are offered on the Bay now.
  5. If that is a question, one cannot use a 16610 case for a 16710. The CGs can’t be fixed. A Sub uses a 7mm crown and a very different tube. The 16710 uses a 5.3 or 6mm from and tube similar to a DateJust crown.
  6. Justin, I still want one of your v2 cases. I’ll take one. I’ll PM you. This is good news.
  7. Another solution... I had the same problem. First, I cleaned the inside of the end link and good as I could, then I took the drill bit that I used to drill the lugs and greased it and then slipped it through the rings. Then, I took JB Weld epoxy and just laid a bead of it across the rings. After it cured you will be able to pull the drill bit out...with pliers. Voila.
  8. That’s my rec. Not a hard job to install. The new tube will have to be JBWelded in. Done
  9. I am wearing a DJ right now that I have more than $1,000 in and it is still a fake watch. Everything you see is Rolex. We can't win. BTW@jmb. Did you ever get back in the 1016 case business? Last we talked the supply had dried up.
  10. What ever happened to the $40 reps that you just put on and wore, saying all the time that they were real.
  11. Thanks to all for the kind words!
  12. Seems I read on one of the fora that there is an error in the V7 case, in that one of the reliefs for the case clamp screws is not correctly placed. I so, is this the problem? IOW...is this a V7 case? I always thought it was V6 but I know that Thomas said that he had been shipping V7 cases before the actual announcement. There is actually a traditional case clamp under there as the screw will not back out far enough to clamp the movement. It will fall out.
  13. I understand the idea of "vintagizing," however, if you look on eBay at 1675s you will find that many, many more, than not, have white dials and if they are patinized it is just slightly. The cases are usually over-polished and the inserts are faded, but the dials look new. That's what closer-to-gen is for me. I "vintagized" watches for years and then built a 1655 with a white dial and I love it. Just my .02. Maybe I've been doing it longer. You will settle in on your own style after awhile...after you've tried some things. Just be happy with what you do.
  14. I appreciated DVNE's observation of the rehaut. It is tooooo wokky. I would not wear that watch when the TC is readily available. It would drive me crazy every time I looked at it.
  15. If there are not holes already, one almost has to have a jig to hold the case and a better than average drill press with zero slop in the shaft. JMB is a machinist by trade and can do it and get it back to you quickly. I have used him several times.
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