ubiquitous
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Posts posted by ubiquitous
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The Asian 21J movement is every bit as good, if not better, than the run-of-the-mill ETA2824s
Uhhhhh.... Dunno about that.
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Pismo said long, long ago... MBW's are not replicas. Rather, they are clones. I have to agree 100% with this statement (and I would also include the vintage Cosmo and El Primero frankens in that category as well)
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Of all my watches, I only have one daily companion...
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Sydney-
If you want to email me the pics, I will post them for you...
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Looks like it.
$45 reasonable? In my opinion, a little overpriced for what it is.
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Well, if you like the dial, and are satisfied with it, then I say go for it. The watch has to make you happy first and foremost- If this dial hits the mark for you, then it's worth picking up
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B series was a transitional period for the majority of Panerai models- PAM029 GMT's included, so 'L SWISS MADE L' and 'T SWISS MADE T' are both correct, as both are known to exist...
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I'll try to mail them out in the next day or two.
Thanks,
R
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This one is from Michael.
Yes... I rec'd one from him a few months back identical to the one you posted. I currently also have a red 1680 dial from him as well. Again, they're nice, but there are better, more accurate dials out there...
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Well, most vintage pieces coming in for service these days will have their old crowns/tubes replaced with the new 24-7030-0 parts, so it's not uncommon to see vintage Sports models fitted with these items.
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I had one of those very recently. Not bad... But, my advice is to keep looking! There's better ones out there...
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If hands from the 21j Asian fit the Miyota, then I have a set sitting in my box that I'll never use. If they're needed, I'll send them free of charge in the U.S. If not, then in the trash can they go.
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A little more info-
PAM232 - 47mm Radiomir Base
PAM249- 47mm Radiomir california dial
Supposedly, these will be released in the same type of mannyer as the 127 (limited run spread over 2 years with production run resembling that of of a historical year (i.e. 1936/1938, etc).
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Just curious....
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Yes... Ink dye is what I've used (pigment dye). Works well, however, I am sure you could come up with some excellent results using a powder media if done correctly! That could be interesting!
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Would definitely like to see pics!
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I'll need to see what I can do. I'm caliper-less at the moment, so getting measurements might take me a bit. But, I'm looking for basically the same dome/crystal shape as the one you are proposing for the 6152; simple dome with 5mm height... That would be perfect!
I am sure that most owners of the WM custom made hommage pieces (based on the 183 case) may want one of these crystals as a spare. Of course, I can't speak on those owners' behalf, but seeing as how WM is not very active these days, and parts are not easy to come by on these pieces, having a source for such things would probably be greatly appreciated.
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You can use these crown and tube sets with:
Submariner (1680, 16800, 16610/LV... 5513, 14060, etc.)
Sea-Dweller (1665, 16660, 16600)
Daytona (6263, 16520, 116520)
Yacht-Master (16622, 16623)
Models these crowns won't work with
Submariner TT and 18k (16613, 16618)
Daytona TT and 18k (16523, 16528, 116523, 116528)
Yacht-Master 18k (16628)
ALL GMT models (1675, 16750, 16700, 16760, 16710, 16713)
ALL Explorer models (1655, 16550, 16570)
In addition, the triplock sets are also compatible with a number of Tudor refs, but I'm feeling a bit too lazy to list those...
Best,
R
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I believe that the key to quick visual identification of the new Asian 7750 is with the beat (28.800bph), and the regulator (or lack of).... Prior models differed in both of these areas...
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Let me look into it
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What does the milesimation number on your caseback start with? B?
If it's B, the dial could be signed either 'L' or 'T'. The B series run was a transitional period for Panerai, so either could be correct.
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I've seen some genuines pop up from time to time, though at $800+, not exactly my ideal of a reasonable solution.
Or, maybe you're looking for a rep/aftermarket dial?
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Genuine dial will fit the movement, however the dial feet have to be removed (not a big deal). The more important aspect (at least to me) is that the subdials for 3:00/9:00 line up correctly. 6:00 is a dummy hand that is glued into place.
However, be aware that most so-called genuine dials are either repaints, or aftermarket pieces for V72/727 movements. True genuine dials are a small fortune in their own right; with all the repaints out there, any dials advertised as genuine original are most likely not what they seem.
As for where to obtain a spare movement... Why, DW of course!
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Isn't it quite dangerous if there is no suitable replacement stem available on the market? Surely the stem can be easily prone to damage in the tube/crown changing.
BTW, is it true that the gen 6263 dial won't fit the DW/gen vj23 movement becasue of different leg positions?
Will the lug holes on DW case accept gen springbars?
I come know that the end links now DW is fitting on the bracelet is "5678" i/o 571, is this OK and workable?
Please kindly help again. Thanks, the PN experts.
I would be more concerned about the movement as a whole. As avitt mentioned, it would be wise to procure an extra movent to go with that spare stem, should you choose to obtain one. The movement is about as easy to find as the stem, if that's any indication, and you'll want to have a back up, just in case
The lug holes, as they come are suitable for genuine 19mm springbars. They should not be drilled, as larger lug holes would be incorrect for this model.
571 end links are the correct pieces for cosmo's of this vintage using 78350 bracelets. Alternatively, 371's have also been known to be fitted; for earlier models (6239, 6241), the 7205 rivet with 71 ends were fitted, and early 70's models had 7835 folded links with 71H ends.
Hope this helps....
R
Your favorite replica
in General Discussion
Posted
Just got it back... Where did it go (or, maybe the more appropriate question is, what did you have done)?