jmb

Outfu@kingstanding!!!

I have always used a Clark 25-123 when I built Rangers and had no problems with the cases I use.  Maybe the rehaut is a bit small or the bezel is not putting enough squeeze on it.  When water resistance is vital I have pus a light "smear" clear silicone adhesive/sealant where crystal and case meet then press down the bezel.

On my case you can use a 2824, 18k Felsa 4xxx, and there is an old ETA 2460 that is low beat 18k and has a stem position very close to a 2824.  Oh, 2783 and 2784 should fit, too.

That looks great!  I bought one of these when they first came out and I think only wore it once 'cause it was too shiny and "blingy" looking!  This one looks like it means business.  

Great job on the "gnarly" hands!  This looks like an all business, no fluff or pampering, "man's" watch!

I was able to "dodge a bullet" and got the stem back in!  Next time one of these darkens my door it will be right back in the mail to where it came from...

Joey, I agree.  I have lost more than one of those springs and finally decided I would only deal with ETA or ETA clones.  I remove stem in the set position, like ETA, and still bugger it up half the time.

I usually don't mess with a21j movements anymore as I have always had a dismal record with the keyless works.  I mistakenly took in a watch to do some work on with an A21J and wondered whether the consensus was remove stem in "set" position or "wind" position.

If anybody messes their case up with a hand-drill send it to Freddy to get fixed, I want nothing to do with it...

I don't think you are going to find a "stock" font that will work.  You are going to have to draw or trace each character.  If you really want a "font" you can get a font creator program, draw your letters, and then pull them into the font creator program and create a TT font.

Thanks, Matt!  You're right about being old!

I love it!  Dial has real "character" and the hands are just the icing on the cake!

Wallered out - buggered, knackered, out-of-round, distorted, oblong, FUBAR...  I'm sure there are more terms that are related.

2 hours ago, automatico said:

They ain't gonna know what 'wallered' means.  

 

I reckon if they be from South of the Mason-Dixon line they will!

I sometimes chuckle when I read some of the "suggestions" concerning drilling holes in lugs so I thought I would present some of my observations.  I have drilled a few and also being a machinist have a little knowledge about such things as drilling holes.

1. I have read more than once people suggesting to run the drill at slow speed.  This is absolutely wrong!  If you run the drill too slow, especially with a small drill bit, your chance of snapping a bit skyrocket.  When drilling lugs I run the spindle in my mill as fast as I can, which at 2500 RPM is actually still too slow.
2. Case must be held rigidly.  I use a mill but a cheap drill press will likely work in a pinch.  A really cheap drill-press may have too much slop in the quill to allow a good precise clean "spot" with the center drill.
3. Start the hole with a center-drill (#0 for DJ holes or #1 for the bigger ones).
4. Use a drop or two of oil.  This is more for "grab" prevention than cooling.  To cool you would need a constant flood of cutting fluid.
5. Don't feed too slow or too fast.  Too fast and you might break a bit and too slow may "work harden" the material you are drilling.
6. Use a sharp bit.  Cobalt bits will last longer/drill more cases but are more expensive.  Change bits just as soon as there is even a hint of it starting to dull.  Failure to do this might result in a "wallered" hole or broken bit.

If you do happen to break off a drill bit, and can't easily remove it, don't freak out!  Don't make matters worse by trying to drill or dig it out.  Mix a strong/concentrated citric acid solution and dump the case into it.  After a week see if the remains of the bit will crumble, if not put it back in to soak for another week.  After a couple of weeks the bit will have rusted enough where it will have pretty much dissolved.  Once the remains of the bit are all gone put some oil in the hole and finish drilling.  The citric acid will not harm the stainless steel used in our watch cases.

I have done 2 Rolex no-date mid-size and have sworn never to do another, total PITA.  The Tudor is a straightforward build with no "surprises" unlike the Rollie...

Turned out great!  Remember, these are 50 year old watches!

Darth Bane, das Bevelmeister!

20 hours ago, prova4 said:

 

 

the 6202 is 35/36 mm case...

Use a 162xx case...

On 3/28/2016 at 1:03 PM, candide2424 said:

 Great !

a Guinea pig; good luck

Sacrificial lamb?

Change it with the "best quality" Asian clone as they come with engine-turned bridges.  It would be possible to re-work yours but the price would be prohibitive...

Definitely has a sense of humor and good at spinning a yarn!

Hard tellin', one of those "need to be there" kinda things!  Mike - I have ETA hand sets so if you need one drop me a line...

The cannon pinion has nothing to do with the sweep hand fitting on IT'S pin unless the cannon pinion is so high the tip of the second wheel is below the cannon pinion and the sweep hand tube can't reach it.  In your pictures that is not the case.  Maybe you got a sweep hand with a Rolex or a21j size tube?

To me it's one step above a rep dial.  A lot of "refinished" dials claim to be repainted onto a "genuine" base but who can really tell anymore. Some that claim to be refinished/repainted are obviously rep dials with feet in the Rolex position.