NRG

Old ETA? Unlikely, more like a Hangzhou 6300

http://hangzhouwatch.com/product_view.asp?id=56

Really appreciate all your time and effort Offshore, many thanks for doing this and Merry Christmas to you and family.

Well I'm really p*ssed off about this news and angry at the attitued shown towards him. The Zigmeister is the main reason for me being here and in my mind has been key in making RWG as good as it is today. His absense will be truly missed....I hope the Admin team can work something out with him to bring him back.

Looking forward to it Offshore, payment made...

First look I thought it was a Constellation, it has the pie-pan dial but no gold star at 6.

What does the case back look like? Does it have the Observatory or Seamonster logo?

I have the TZ stuff but I'm interested in the Omega and 7750 info. Gladly contribute....

Well that was back in 2003 !!! Perhaps his point of view has changed over the last 4 years...

You'll find watch movements are also listed in Hz or Cycles per second. So what The Zigmeister described above (cw then anti-cw rotation of the balance wheel) is one cycle or Hz. So 28800 is a 4 Hz movement and 21600 is 3Hz, yet the second had moves 8 and 6 times a second respectively...

Yep, DG2813m

Okay guys, cut him some slack. I had to replace the domed sapphire crystal in my Seiko Orange Monster.

Being a "resourceful" sort, I used a big socket from my socket set to press the perimeter of the crystal, a piece of oak across the back of the case/lugs and a C-clamp from my carpentry shop.

It worked slick as a whistle.

Nanuq, this is an old thread. Unless you missed it FL was/is a wind up merchant, he was takin the p*ss out of the board...

Do we know for sure if the parts of the SW200 and 2824-2 are *not* interchangable? Has The Zigmeister done a break down on one yet?

And where does the extra jewel go?

Thanks!

The rotor can be held in by a screw in the centre or sometimes by a spring clip, don't know what the movement is....you should have removed the rotor when the movement was still in the case, much easier to do it then!

Get yourself some watch paper along with the hand puller, use the paper to keep your fingers off the movement and the dial. Don't touch that dial!

Do you mean case clamps?

You can get them from the likes of Cousins UK or Ofrei or Jules Borel etc...depending on where you are.

http://cousinsuk.com/catalog/4/0/637.aspx

All the above can also supply movment rings if that's what you meant.

The positional errors noted above are to do with the point of attachment of the balance spring and the horizontal centering of the balance spring.

Jules Grossman discovered in the 19th century the most critical adjustment is the point of attachment of the balance spring to the centre collet of the balance wheel. As mentioned earlier in the vertical position the balance pivots have more friction thus reducing balance wheel amplitude which increase the rate of the watch.

The attachment point can be adjusted to minimise but not eliminate the error introduced by the vertical position. Some manufacturers choose the point of attachment to lower the rate in the most common vertical position IE:Crown Down with low error in the Crown left position and a relatively faster rate in the Crown Up position but other manufactures choose different attachment points with different results. So what works for one watch *may not* work for another from a different manufacturer.

Hope that helps...

Guys you must be kidding.

Is a of the shelf Noob mariner from TTK waterproof.

Mine is on it's way so a can't test it.

This means that i can sell my Seiko's sonce i can use the noob for swimming

regards,

Cats

Yes, no problem with either of mine.

LOL...I'm not sure about that!

Here's two more run through PSP using your techniques... (the Rolex is a little off-colour!)

Thanks to Jiro and his helpful

Again, thanks for the kind word guys.

@NRG: I would love to those improved pictures!!! post em! will ya~?

OK...I'm on it!

Jiro, thank you for these tutorials.

I don't have Photoshop but do have Paint Shop Pro XI.

The good news is PSP seems to have the same functions so I've learnt some new ways to use the s/w, thanks to your tutorials.

I hope you don't mind but I used your example photo's and got similar results out of PSP!

So a big thumbs up here, please keep 'em coming!

The Zigmeister does it again! You should get a commission from the RWG VIP revenue

Instructions already pinned in the "knowledge base" section.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=19163

Yeah but that aint gonna help in this situation. Movement looks like the 2824 copy, can't see the curb pins or balance sping stud to be 100% sure.

If the watch is slow it 'aint gonna get faster unless its so old and dirty a problem develops. If the rate adjustment screw is having no effect then the watch needs looking at on a timing machine...

However, if you are brave and foolish you could try and remove the rotor and autowinding bridge to gain access to the regulator arm so as you can move it. Do not move the stud carrier arm!

The regulator arm lengthens and shortens the effective length of the balance spring changing the rate. Very very minor movements of this arm can have dramatic effects on the rate of the watch but without a timing machine you will have a long road ahead to get the timing where you want it.

' I'm selling this for a friend..........in Nigeria.........'

Looking a lot better today with the user info and Avitars over on the left, it just the colour scheme now! Like the others I think a Blue/Grey scheme is more preferable, IMHO...

Good Work Guys!

Hi,

looks good. Well, I liked the other layout too..

Which I will have to get used to are the members profiles on the top of each post (mixing with the conversation). I preferred them on the left. On the other hand, we have more room for our pics, that's true

As for the rest, I have to explore...

Yes agreed. the work_safe skin works better IMHO

Not 100% true. Power reserve can be affected. Depends on the type of Chrono.