NRG

Early days I know but I really don't like the new layout, it dosen't seem to format correctly on-screen, the older layout was much clearer and easier to view IMHO.

Nice one FF, that's one sweet custom watch you got there. Can I ask where you get your parts from (dial, case etc)

Nice one Pugwash, one other suggestion (just a thought) would be to get some finger cots and some watch paper from cousinsuk. The cots have saved me many a time from putting finger smudges on the dial...and the paper is always useful

No....it *is* hideous!

The DRSD Reference link posted above by 'ridnwind'

http://clockmaker.com.au/w/k178.html

It show on open '6' on the dial....the '610m'. The MBW does not, or is it a different model?

Is the MBW supposed to have a closed '6' on the dial? The reference link posted above shows an open '6'

Stumbled across this very useful database on Miyota movements, not sure if it's been posted before...

http://www.citizen.co.jp/miyota_mvt/download/index.html

dear NRG, sorry I forgot to add; I had them all serviced and oiled.

but nothing big deal, no parts changed, no big service has been made. just cleaning the movement and oiling...

I mean they didn't need major service or changing of some parts after those years.

That's alright then! You did the right thing, they should last for many more years to come...

I am late to this thread, but as I play catchup I still haven't seen anybody really nail what I consider the number one problem that we face today ---> ourselves. We pay for the watches, we obsess about every last detail, we boast about the mods such as date wheels, lume, bezels, etc that we paid for. And in the process we are basically yelling at the top of our lungs that we will pay whatever the dealer wants for the next really, really special rep.

So the dealers asked us, "Hey, what do you think of this new upcoming model?" Move the logo, darken the font, etc. and etc. we give them our feedback, which they incorporate, and in the process we get our collective juices going to the point that we cannot do anything but pay for the latest Evo or Big Bang or Cousteau or whatever.

The dealers have us by the balls because we handed our balls over on a silver platter. We're drooling over the next opportunity to fork over our money, so charge whatever you want and we will pay.

I have an Evo, and I have an Inge (with a lovely Lello date wheel that my local watchmaker charged $70 to install!), so I am not a pure virgin in this "ultimate" premium rep process.

But when tempted by the Cousteau or most of these other super reps I really try to remind myself that 1) I got into this sport in part because gens are too expensive, and 2) I like variety. Well, after a few years I have variety. Perhaps I don't have all the reps that would be at the top of my shopping list if I was starting out today, but I have quite a few extremely nice watches that I struggle to give wrist time to.

So I'm, stepping back from the expensive ultimates and hoping that my fellow collectors do the same. If they do, the prices will come down to levels we feel more comfortable with. And the sad fact is, I will probably end up spending more money on reps than if prices continue to go up and up and up and ......

Spot on IMHO. It's like shooting fish in a barrel. I've voted 'no' to them with my wallet and will buy gens over $400 reps even if it takes longer to achieve the same goal...

This is opening up old threads and opinions.......sigh! but.....sorry.....you miss the point.

'They all work fine now' Yes 'now' but only for a short time, you are running them dry. If you continue to use them you will increase wear and cause damage, possibly expensive damage. Just because they tick and seem to work and keep good time does not mean you aren't damaging them.

Let me give you an example. Three of the Harrison Longitude clocks, H1, H2 & H3 Marine Chronometers are still running at the Greenwich observatory in London. They are able to do so because i) they where restored in the early 20th century and ii) because of Harrison's clever invention and use of self lubricating wood gears in critical areas. His Last watch H4 is not run...why? Because it needs constant maintenance and lubrication. It is far too precious to be treated in any other way so it is not run for fear of wear and damage.

I think the only synthetic oils I use and have are 9010 and 9415. Since the movements need D5, 8141, and 8217, which are not synthetic, I guess it doesn't matter...even if the synthetic ones survive, they only make up 2 wheels and the pallet and escape wheel...the remainder will be dried up.

RG

Thanks The Zigmeister! That answers a lot of questions I see about service intervals on many watch forums! You've confirmed my suspicions...

There won't be any wear on the parts if the watch is not running...but the oils will all be dried up and gummed up.

It would be smart to have the watch serviced before you used it, or you risk damage when it starts running.

RG

The Zigmeister, does that still apply with the new synthetic oils like Moebius 9010/9020 or is it more applicable to natural oils?

Nice spot Pugwash, I saw him put the same watch on at the end of the Monaco GP but couldn't figure out what it was...

The pinion heights are different, you won't get the hands on. Plus because of the movement height difference the stem / case hole alignment will be out...

...

Paractically speaking, though, a little tidbit above is news to me. Can someone verify that the date position is "slightly" off in one of these versions? Is the date indicator of one of the DGXXX movement's position "correct" relative to the 2892 or are they both off?

Archibald, I can confirm the date position is more or less correct as a 2824-2 in a lateral plane ...height ...I'm not sure.

The gold one is a DG8413 28,800 bph movement and the other a 21,600bph DG2813.

They are NOT direct replacemet for each other. The movement height is different, the balance c0ck is different, the fourth wheel pinion height, centre wheel and hour wheel...all different.

This is no Tourbillon, it's just a visible balance wheel. So that makes it not cheap. It's expensive for what it is. The back shows a Seagull movement.

Yep! At that price it 'aint a Toub. You can get a real one though if you look hard enough for about $1K. There's been some talk about these over on the WUS board: http://forums.watchuseek.com/showthread.php?t=60198

I'm confused, you're now 'Amplitude' ...where you banned as 'The Technician'?

I don't know what it is, but I seem to be able to sniff out those who have verbal dirreah and can't get along with anyone...seems strange that all of these folks talk the same way, brag about the successes they have, own a HUGE business, etc, etc.. Funny that their composure and posts here get them on the bad side of everyone in a week or so, seems to go against the claims that they all run huge successful businesses. People who are successful in business, are way smarter than these goofs...

It all seems so familar to me, over and over, I think it's the same person who is just here to stir the pot.

I am sure they, he, whatever it is, will pop up in a couple of weeks again, to share some of their wisdom with us who know so little...

RG

The man is an arrogant c0ck The Zigmeister like so many other that pop up every now and then. He is so well connected and successful, yet he still needs to visit replica watch bulletin boards...

1K+ google visitors per day. I need to convert traffic into money

FFS....get lost.

Would one of these bezel removers work on this watch?

yes but at a price. If the watch is anything like the noobmariner then the bezel is a PIA to get off. The risk of bending it is very high. If it's just the insert that you are interested in then do as Pug says, a lot less pain...

thats a piece of cake. for this i have the tools

and to save the dial i will take a bite of film.

You *will* ruin your watch, how much do you value it? Yes you can remove the movement but you haven't a clue on how to handle it and it is not something that can be conveyed via words on an Internet forum.

to disassemble a watch is absolut "not" impossible.

i dont have two left feet

Again you are correct, it's not impossible to disassemble a watch, but it is a whole different matter when it comes to handling, assembly and treatment of watch parts to end up with a healthy working watch afterwards.

If you are really that determined to hang yourself, why don't you go and buy a really cheap mechanical watch of Ebay for $25 or so and have a practice...

And as The Zigmeister pointed out, the fact you are in a hurry says it all. There is nothing you can hurry when working on a watch.

Hi,

Well, I slowed it down (too much) and then gradually speeded it back up. My last adjustment was just about as small a movement as I could make. It is now running 7 seconds fast per 24 hours (all at night when I'm not wearing it). Can I realistically get it any better than this?

BTW, is it the same method and direction of adjustment for the 7750 & 21J movements?

Thanks in advance

M

Is that +7s with the watch Dial up?

If so, place the watch in a vertical position (dial vertical) with the '12' facing down and check again, don't forget to fully wind the watch.

Good read, thanks for posting. 28800 is 8hz though!

How has it changed my collecting? I don't collect them. I came to RWG seeking relief from $700 replicas. No replica no matter how faithful the reproduction is worth that kind of scratch.

Are these really "super reps"? What is super about them? It certainly isn't the meat and potatos of movement reliability. I would rather have a quantam leap in QC than new models.

Agreed. That's why I'm not playing the game any more. The accuracy may have improved but QC is still none existent. I'm not going to splash $450 on them, in fact over the last year my gen purchases have increased, I'd rather save and wait for a gen. than get into the expensive reps.