NRG

Stonking! Just don't wind it too fast and be careful with the time and date adjustment. IMHO take adjustments slowly, the mech really does not like being taken for an F1 ride....

Now, I got what you mean that it won't interchange. How do I know if my Asian 7750 has the 28800 bph? I don't have an instrument to measure it.

Then you are stuffed.

Nice one Gioarmani,

I've a number of Vostoks and find them great value. Rugged and robust they seem to just keep running! The Amphibian is a great watch, a great daily beater IMHO.

Yikes! First you should never ever touch the dial, never, never, never!

If you don't have a hand setting tool you can get away with a BIRO/BIC pen ink inner or the plastic pen end now vacated by the ink filler.

Secondly, did you set the hands exactly at 12 midnight? Pull the crown out to the hand setting position, wind forward until the date just changes. Partially install the hour hand, wind forward another 24hrs and as you approach midnight note when the date changes. Readjust the hour hand if not exactly at 12. When happy fit the min hand and the seconds.

....a thing of beauty....

As you are not a watch nut and your wife is telling you to buy a watch (oh what joy ) then may I sugest you buy a gen and not a replica....

What is your budget?

DW, apart from trolling the forum I've no idea what you are trying to achieve.

I own a 'replica' of this watch:

Made by Poljot issued last year, here's the pic:

Now this is made by the same company and they call it a 'reissue' but it's not, it has a different dial, different movement, it's a replica...or is that a 'fake'..... who cares! It's a fine time piece in it's own right, just as my noobmariner is from TTK. Perhaps pseudo Rolex would be a more acceptable term for you...LOL!

A bit of #4, 5 and 6 but not all of the stuff. Movement wise I've stripped, repaired, cleaned, rebuilt and regulated more than I have modified cases....

I betcha still would though?

JTB

No.....no.....I can honestly say I'd not even touch that with yours or anybody else's...

Loads of Posts here

This is the closest one I've found to those in the noobmariners etc

http://cousinsuk.com/default.aspx?disp=pro...roductid=462411

There is something oddly disturbing about that last picture...

Less is more!

I've been back and forth with my watchmaker over this service issue. He actually refuses to service it while new - saying it doesn't need it (and has a lot of experience with these movements - and over 30 years in the business). He WILL service it - but says there is NO POINT from new.

If he is basing this view on ETA movements in recognised brand name watches then I can understand it. He is assuming they are oiled, regulated and tested from the factory. However, as The Zigmeister has illustrated the Asian 7750 copy movement shipping in our reps is anything but oiled, regulated or tested. It's a lottery as to what you get...

If he is prepared to strip down, clean, reassemble, oil and regulate for 35 quid then bite his hand off because that's a seriously good price. Who is it BTW, I may have some work for him!

Go on go on go on go on go on go on go on go on go on go on go on go on go on.....

You've already asked this in another thread: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=15752

I don't wish to judge you but I feel you're about to mess this up big time....

I can't tell from the pics in the other thread if your movement looks like this:

This is 21J with normal fit datewheel, the arrows indicate the screws that are needed to release the plate and date wheel. WARNING: unless you know how to work on watches you won't get this part back on again if you decide to go back, it's very tricky.

Your movement should have a date overlay as stated in the other thread. The overlay makes access to two of the screws nearly impossible making removal a pain-in-the-ass and refitting an even bigger PIA!!

You won't be able to get the date wheel off on the manner you are attempting because the overlay sandwiches the plate in-between it's self and the original date wheel:

I admire your determination to do this but I can't help feeling it's all going to end in tears...

Does this help:

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...&hl=overlay

'Date Overlay' is a date disk stuck on top of the original Miyota date disk.... You need to remove it and stick it ontop of the ETA date disk.... What are you doing about hand sizes?

I would have thought clear nail varnish would be sufficient....

I always look at the Steinhart Ocean series and wonder how the hell they get away with it!

My condolences Neil...

It's not far off is it? That's what I found comparing against my Boss's gen.

Here are some pics trying to show the difference in rehaut has on the magnification, first is 0mm, second is with the crystal 3mm above the date wheel and the second at 4mm. I estimate the noobmariner date sits at about 3.5mm or so below the crystal. A small difference make a big difference!

Excellent write up Bill!

Could I make a couple of observations that others may find useful if attempting this kind of work...you really should wear safety glasses/goggle when doing any kind of drilling work like this to protect your precious peepers (eyes) also keep any loose hair / clothing tied back out of the way so it can't get caught in the drill and the drill press should have a guard around it as a secondary measure...

Secondly, you went to all the trouble of good setup but did not use a countersink bit to finish the holes! As you say the drill only needs a very light touch, over do it and you've ruined the lug hole. A chamfer bit is more progressing and controllable than a drill plus it puts the correct 45deg angle on the hole edges.....

Just my 2c worth....

assuming it's eta noobmariner

Noobmariners are fitted with 21J's