alt.watch.obsessive

Curling up a mainspring? Or slicing little tiny pizzas.

The ironic thing is the "risk" is mostly in the rep parts. The gen movement, dial, hands if we're talking Rolex are only going to increase in value as long as they don't get damaged. So the more gen parts you use, the more expensive but the more recoverable the investment, even if it has to be parted out. The main risk is that someone will come up with a better case than the Phong you're using and then its no longer worth $800-1200. The previous comments are called enabling . I also think it is important to ask yourself how you will feel not just when you build one watch at a third of gen cost but three . I would rather have three good builds I put together, but I am sure some would regret the "investment" at that point.

The Rolli 002/009 is really something. If you want an FGD version, put up a WTB ad. I'm sure a number of members have swapped an FGD out for a Rolli but have not bothered to sell the FGD. The FGD is not as good, but it does not glow which could be a plus to some.

Yup...Two words: Pan erai . Actually, the Patek sports watches are done fairly well.

I saw a DRSD on offer for 150K the other day and had the same reaction. Pretty amazing. http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1461192966/FS-+1967+Rolex+Double+Red+Sea+Dweller+Ref-+1665+Mark+I+Pat.+Pending+with+Owner+Info

Yes, and I assume so. You can search here on the first. You just need to grind a bump off one of the keyless parts. Not sure about the hack, but Rolex movements hacked before they had a quick set date, I believe.

I believe a 2824 will be the safe choice, but you need the cannon pinon to be high enough. If you have not made a purchase, TC's movements have the right CP. If the case will fit a 2836 (doubtful) that will have the right CP. Remove the date disc so you do not hear a click when it turns over.

Next time buy a Seadweller...that won't happen!

"A man with one watch knows what time it is. An RWG member with 40 watches is never quite sure."

I know nothing about this kind of thing, but could Rolex be an option? It seems genuine enough that they would service it, and they presumably would supply a service dial and hands at a reasonable price.

Yup. The standard answer to this question is anywhere with an Internet connection.

I think it is Epoxy 330. I'm sure there is nothing special about that brand. For application you should be able to use anything with a sharp point on it. I use wooden skewers we have on hand from the local Asian market :).

For what it's worth, I've found two part epoxies to be the best compromise between strength and slow set time. You have forever to adjust things but they hold almost like superglue once dry (bit stronger than GS). There is a post on here about dial feet with very large bases that I had to order from the UK. They work great, but the base does add a little space in the whole build so you can get in trouble. This also seems to work best without a date. Buy a dead Asian ETA movement cheap and use it to hold the feet while you set the dial on top. Otherwise, epoxy the dial to the spacer and the spacer to the movement or use dial dots. They seem to work surprisingly well as long as the whole thing is held solidly in the case.

Super work by both you and Lord Voldemort. Agree on the color of the gilt. Very nice!

Check the canon piñon height before you start operating.

Well, I'm guessing a gen 5514 case is mildly cost prohibitive. I would seat the serviced movement in the case yourself and see how far off it is first. Some watchmakers have a very low tolerance for working with anything that is not 100% perfect. Is your movement a 1520 or 1570? I think the stem position is the same, but you might want to verify. I do not recall any issues with my HH 1520 combo, at least not with stem position. The rest was a different story.

Dutchy I've seen you post this elsewhere and with your gen collection I assumed it was a rep but couldn't be sure. Goes to show how convincing these things are. Love the clasp.

Second this...A hand press is dirt cheap but makes the process infinitely easier. Plastic tweezers can help too. Be sure to clean the surface of the hand press before using it.

Full disclosure...I'm in love with mine at the moment...but, it's big, well executed, not dressy to the point where you will never wear it, and mine keeps time very well. The bad news is it is quite expensive and cries out for a better strap (or OEM) which is more money. I wanted a PR on a watch that I would actually wear for the longest time. I also like the fact that the PR takes quite a while to reach full charge, so it is not just pinned on full reserve all the time. The Big Pilot wit the same movement is another option too.

I think the lug holes are a bit too far inside. The curve of the lugs is better than Phong. Bezel is too thin, but that seems to be true of all aftermarket cases.

I have one in route right now, so they should still be available.

You need a working power reserve and a "dress" watch. The new IWC Porto fits the bill.

Top for me.

Late reply, but the available replacements are not very satisfactory. You would also need a press to put the bezel back in place with the new plexy. There is a version of the 212 with sapphire that is now available if you want to upgrade.

If we're still talking about gen cases (not sure what Switzerladn is), 16200 definitely wants a 2824. You still want a dial spacer and may need even a bit more clearance for a date disc overlay. I have a 2836 in a 16200 for an explorer, but this required removing all the date mechanisms.