sneed12

What must I do to replace the crown o-ring, and get the crown to lock down in a Daytona?

 

The o-ring in my Daytona worked itself out one day when I pulled the stem to set the hands; now the stem won't lock down.

 

I can still set the hands and wind the watch up; just can't lock it down.

 

How can I install a new o-ring and fix the lock down issue (unless one automatically takes care of the other).

 

A step-by-step will help immensely.

 

Thanks.

I don't think you are describing the issue accurately. The o-ring doesn't lock anything down, it simply provides a seal for water-resistance purposes.

The parts are generally replaceable but it does require the movement being disassembled

The hour wheel and canon pinion can be changed from the dial side by removing the dial, hands, and calendar plate. To change the fourth wheel, the autowinding module and train bridge on the backside needs to come off.

This is why I have 2836's in my TC v4s.

A pretty small sample size if you ask me. I'm glad that it's working well for you. I assume that if dealers will not offer them that A. they aren't reliable or B. they aren't cost effective

That makes no sense, because the seconds @ 6 7750 models (Daytona, IWC Portu, etc) have been selling for years.

It's not A or B, it's C: most people don't know the difference between the CHS and ICHS versions, so they don't care, so they don't buy the CHS. Low demand is the reason why models go out of production.

PS: I have two, the GMT IIc is working great as well.

I've searched far and wide and can't seem to find this! Does anyone know where to buy a GMT Master II, old aluminum pepsi bezel, with correct handstack??? Key is the correct handstack. 

 

Where the heck is this watch?

I built one, and as far as I know it's the only one that exists.

The 1675 is easy if you use a 21j since they have the correct hand stack. I have heard bad things about the 2836 with the CHS. They are not heralded as being very reliable.

Mine has been running like a champ for 2+ years now. I just went and looked at the build thread over at repgeek (I posted it here as well but a lot of links are broken) and it was April of 2012, and the watch was several months old already by then.

The ETA 2824 does not have the snap date change; the date changes gradually starting about 10:30 or 11pm. This is normal and correct, it's how the movement functions.

If the date change drags past midnight, then the DWO is likely dragging as the above posters suggest.

The ETA 2836 has instant date change. It requires a number of additional parts, including that big Y-shaped spring that sits under the date disc. If you want that functionality, use a 2836 instead of a 2824 in your rep if it will fit wit the stem height.

Hi all

I just bought a $250 gmt 2 from a TD

Supposed to have a nickel plated Asian 2836-2 modified to Rolex calibre 3186 bridges

Looking at my pic is this what I have ?

No. But what you have is functionally the same (it's still a 2836-2) and the Rolex bridges look stupid, don't fool anyone, don't change the functioning of your watch, and have a reputation for being unreliable. You're better off with what you got.

The bezel is exactly the same - like painted on flimsy aluminium or something.

The gen is like that too. What did you think the bezel would be made from?

This thread was an interesting read, sadly more and more cases such as this deter me from dealing with the trusted dealers. The m2m sales, reams of threads and advice are such a save for which we have RWG to thank! Imagine this dilema without anyone to consult!!

M2M is no guarantee of a good outcome either. I just bought a Black Bay that looks perfect, but the movement stops randomly after 3-4 hours. 

This is why people shouldn't complain about profiteering when they buy m2m. Buying from china is a gamble. If I win my bet and get a perfect rep, I should be able to charge what I want for doing your QC

What a thoughtful and insightful post. 

Maybe I should start charging for answering peoples' questions on the forums about mods. After all, I did the work first, I should be able to charge what I want for sharing my knowledge.

Oh wait.

That's right.

This is a hobby we all share, and we all are supposed to be in it out of enjoyment.

If you want to make money reselling watches, be a dealer. Otherwise, pass along your good fortune to another member and let them enjoy the rep. Is the $50 or $100 you would make on the sale really going to change your life? Does it matter to you? No, it probably doesn't, so don't be a tool.

The Mayer-Maron thread got me thinking about Steve Mulholland, and I happened upon this old thread when I saw it come up in the google results.

I agree with automatico. A good guy that turned bad probley isnt a good guy from the beggining. I don't care how tough times get that's no excuse. I Personally couldn't do something like that because like they say Karma is a [censored] and it comes full circle.

is the dial worthless after clipping.im thinking of doing the same on a 116610 gen dial

Not to one of us!

Can you explain please how to press the bezel assembly on, how this nylon part works?  I'm hoping I can try a crystal gasket the same size, but need to know where this part goes.

 

Thanks in advance.

So if you look at the bezel retaining ring, the lumpy thing with the round half-circles that gives the 24 clicks (all the way on the right in your pic) you see that it has a lip at the top. And if you look inside the bezel itself, you will see a channel/groove around the inside just underneath the bezel insert.

That nylon ring sits inside the groove, and is designed to snap over the lip of the retaining ring. If you try to install the bezel without it, it just falls off.

Any nylon ring the same size that fits snugly between the two parts should work fine. The rep part should probably work fine as well, and every BP GMT IIc bezel assembly has one. I think I saw a BP GMT IIc bezel assembly for sale the other day in the parts section. Alternatively, I guess you could try an o-ring? But I don't know if it's too squishy to snap in place...

Good luck!

Is the dial now an amputee?

Clipping the dial feet is the only way to install a Rolex movement designed for a 3035 or 3135 on an ETA. One of the feet is right above the balance wheel, so even if you drilled the mainplate for new feet it would not work. (I suppose you could drill a new hole for one of the feet, and only clip the other one halfway or something, but that seems like more trouble than it is worth).

It's 42.7% gen.

Why ask after purchasing?

You cannot turn the dial enough to make a difference with the feet installed. Can. Not. You will break the feet off in the movement if you try. Don't know how to make that any clearer.

The stem release button is in a slot right by where the stem goes into the movement. I typically like to have the stem in the out/hacked position when I pull it, because this sends the yoke and castle wheel all the way towards the center of the movement and I feel it's less likely to get screwed up on insertion this way (the castle wheel can't get pushed out from under the yoke because it's all the way at the end of its travel) but others have different preferences.

(For 7750s, btw, I always remove the stem from the wind position--different watches are different)

The dial feet locks are right by... the dial feet... and you pull them to open. They look like little hooks, and they swing outward. It's obvious when you see it.

You can't rotate the dial to align the date, the date orientation is set by the feet.

These are reps, sadly there is no such thing as universal fitment and there is no consistent numbering / labeling of parts (since everything carries fake gen markings). The only way to ever know for sure is to try. Pretty much every modder I know of ends up with giant boxes full of parts that don't fit. I know I have...

I have the original low-beat Fighters which has already been fitted with a Swiss 7750 and gen dial (shaved) by The Zigmeister a few years ago. I also have one of the high-beat Fighters that has the non-sync slide rule - it appears to be the same case but with better bevel / chamfer on the lugs. I could use either case, although I would prefer to sell the one that's already modded to help fund the next one. I was thinking that by using a gen slide rule the dial wouldn't need to be shaved to fit and also the slide rule would sync with the dial properly.

The high-beat fighters case has the same sunken datewheel problem as the 3-6-9 Navis of the era. It's the same case. There's no transfer plate, but they put a spacer on top of the movement to raise the dial up.

as shown, one is left justius, one is low position

I've been away for several months; good to know you're still posting the same old craziness.

Nothing wrong with either of those, BTW. The date disc and the top of the dial don't sit in the same plane, you do get a tiny parallax effect depending on the viewing angle.

"GMT is totally different" doesn't make any sense, since the 2813 doesn't have GMT function.

Date change mechanism is indeed slightly different, but it's due to the fact that the 3804 GMT function piggybacks off of the calendar drive wheel (just like a 2893-2 or a GMT modded 2836 does).

Balance [censored] is the same across both movements.

An ETA 2836/46 has physically similar dimensions to the DG2813. The hand sizes are different. Most dials that work with one movement will work with the other in terms of diameter, but the movements have feet located in different places and cannot be swapped directly unless the feet are removed. Datewheels (date discs) will not swap but datewheel overlays typically will.

So that means there is no necessity to get new hands, dial, dw, etc?

Have you tried doing a search? This topic has been discussed literally to death.

I say "the real one" as some sellers sell a modded 2813 GMT which as I said above is crap. The DG3804 is a pretty good movement.

A 2813 or 3804 will fit anywhere an ETA 2836/2846 will fit, it's the same ligne and stem height.