gt_lad

Had this 2yrs and still love it. If not more than when I first picked it up. Future classic right here, never selling!

My 42mm PO rep.

Picked up this little beauty back in November 

Here’s my late fathers gen Old Navi II, originally on a stainless/gold pilot strap, now on leather. I treasure this more than any other possession.

Thanks for your opinion all, really appreciate it. 

Hi all. First time in the Breitling arena in the hope I might get some help. I have just acquired a gen 1995 Old Navitimer, through very sad circumstances. It hasn't been serviced in about 10yrs and feel it's well worth having a full service/refurbishment so intend shipping it to Breitling UK (pricey, ouch!). Upon close inspection I've noticed a small scratch in the crystal but more strangely, the dial is looking rather poor on most edges. Has anyone seen this on gens before? Also, before I send it, any ideas on the cost to replace either item? Adding to that, some say keeping watches original is better than replacing everything, keeping it true to form despite condition... any thoughts?? Regards, Mark.

So the research continues (still yet to contact TC by the way). I found a thread about subs...

It suggests the BP Classic Sea Dweller as a great alternative. I'm struggling to identify it on Josh's site but Andrew has them. Does anyone have any recent experience?

1 hour ago, sgtguk said:

Look very closely then start again........you'll find lots more flaws  to be fair TC on its own is a great value buy (that's why he sells lots of em) then wait till you've got a bit money together and add a Gen insert, crystal etc etc

I've had mine for years now and it's just about due a service, then I'll add a Gen crystal as it's already got a Gen insert as is, update the DW then I'm done for a few more years or until I decide to go Gen, remember as the guys have said though every rep has a flaw or few..... 

Hmm, I'm going to have to look into the TC option some more. I can't see a web link in his section within trusted dealers, is it just a matter of emailing him and then he gives you a breakdown of available options? It appears that way from his post?

15 minutes ago, panerai153 said:

It truly is a minefield, but to me the best way to find flaws is to get a good photo of a genuine watch (the model you want) and then compare the gen to the rep. After all, we are all trying to achieve reps that are more Gen-like, so the best way is to start looking at a gen and compare. All reps are going to have problems, it's just that every model or version is going to have a little different problem. Lots of these can be solved with gen parts and careful case modding, but then you start to get into a good bit of money. So my advice would be to look at the various ones that the dealers are selling, compare them to a gen, and then pick the one that has the least numbers of flaws that you can live with.

AFA the one you have, I would keep the box and throw the watch away!!! Just kidding, but it serves as a good example of problems with a cheap rep.

Here is a gen P serial 16610

 

 

Yeah it will serve me right! My last two have been from Josh and been brilliant (apart from the missfortune of a dodgy movement), I couldn't resist the lure of something so inexpensive!

It's seems just under $300 is where good 16610 reps start?... http://www.pf-818.com/watches/rolex/submariner/classic-ranges/rlss00031a-16610-black-ss-sub-asian-2824-3135.html 

I will have to inspect photos closely, as much as these allow anyway! 

10 hours ago, gasebah said:

If you like the 16610 then IMHO there is only on way to go. TC sub V7. I absolutely love mine. In fact it is the only Rollie rep I would ever wear except maybe for an excellent Franken vintage. As was said before they are a minefield.

 

I know TC's are something special but, it's more than I want to spend. I know I'll get itchy feet in another several months and start looking for something else, one of these would hit the watch fund a bit too hard!

I've found a couple of contenders that Josh has, but I don't know which factory or version they are, to then look them up on here. I suppose I could always contact Josh?

Crikey, these subs are a minefield! Guesing a good rep will correct most of these flaws in one fowl swoop?

4 hours ago, Sogeha said:

The guys here will try to help you, but you said yourself, much research. Do you want another Sub or are your interests more general? Do you want this particular model (16610) or a vintage piece or something currently in production? Really it depends how far you want to get down the rabbit hole. 

 

Model choice wise I wouldnt go down the vintage route (despite the appeal), but would consider something current or a 16610 dependant on what offers best value in terms of the quality of the rep/movement and over all accuracy.  It seems different factories produce better reps dependant on which version you look at, and that there isn't a consistent winner throughout the years?

It appears the rabbit hole leads to a warren full of twists and turns... more so compared to the 42mm PO rep I have!

All interesting. I bought it on a whim, it was so cheap it doesn't bother me. I was aware of the etching being to heavy but I was blissfully unaware of the other facts. It's inspiration to go on the hunt for something more accurate now... Much research will entail!  Any pointers anyone?

Hi all. Not at all familiar with the sub reps (despite my old profile pic!), I normally loom in the omega section. So, almost 2yrs ago a client gave me a sub rep complete with a box, but sadly it was stolen. Big shame is it appeared to be great quality and kept great time, only gaining 8sec a week. Since I've bought one or two more watches (another omega rep and a gen Tissot), but it seemed a shame to have an empty box and nothing to fill it! I took a punt on this but have no idea which factory or version it might be... Any ideas? I'm sure it has a cheep movement, and you can hear the rotor swinging when moving the watch! 

Please feel free to comment/criticize, very interested to hear some feedback. By the way, the lume is dreadful, and blue which I fear is incorrect? As said, be good to hear what you all might think.

On 07/01/2017 at 5:50 PM, Sogeha said:

A Miyota movement won't be a direct replacement and both the hands and dial will need work or replacement. The pinion holes are:

Miyota 100/152/17

ETA 90/150/26

while two hands could be broached to fit and the final one could be slightly squeezed to fit, the dial feet are different and you may have problems with the stem height. Especially given that you are paying for labour, I would advice against this route. Like for like replacement will be less hassle.

I've had a look around and it appears cousins sell the TY2130.  I read an article that suggests it's the same as the ST2130? Assuming that's correct I agree in the fact it will be a simple swap, all being the black date wheel will swap easily enough? Once done it will also leave me with a movement to practice working on!

15 hours ago, Sogeha said:

I sympathise, you are having rotten luck. ST2130 is an ETA clone, a Miyota isn't. To the best f my knowledge parts can be got for the ETA clones, maybe an economical repair is possible.

People who call themselves watchsmiths vary from guys who replace batteries and straps to guys who can create a watch from scratch. I have no idea how good yours is, but maybe it might help to shop around a little.

That's useful, I wasn't sure if parts were available. Certainly something to research however, the watchsmith now doing the job (a good one this time!) says the cost to strip the movement to repair it could week outweigh the cost to replace.

I'm not so bothered about the movements esthetic element so if I do have to replace a Miyota would be fine. It's more knowing which movements will fit using the existing hands and dial... If anyone can help?

Ok so, after a previous lengthy post and a lot of very helpful guidance, my 42 PO now proudly wears a genuine tube and crown. This was done not only as an uograde, but also because of a suspect stem/crown fault, sadly only four months after pruchase. Upon its return to the watchsmith to have the movement re-installed, they encountered problems. We agreed to call it a day and so I took it to my first choice watch man (previously too busy to undertake the work), and he has told me the bolt for the set leaver is faulty. The so called Swiss ETA is a clone but I'm unsure exactly which one. Unless anyone can suggest different it seems just as well/economic to replace the movement rather than paying to strip and repair the existing one. Can anyone help with suggesting what I should go for please?  Am I right in thinking the Seagul ST2130 doesn't appear to be a bad bet? Or maybe a Miyota? Naturally it needs the black date wheel with white numerals and the correct font, any suggestions and guidance would be hugely appreciated. 

Thanks in advance, Mark.

It seems to have done the trick, pretty pleased over all.  If only the logo were to sit straight once the crown is screwed in fully. I can't think of any way to overcome it though?

So tonight I finally gave it a go...  After the first attempt with Evo epoxy I cleaned the tube and threads in the case...

Then mixed up the JB...

Then applied it to the tube and set in place. I found that it took a couple of goes until I was confident I'd used enough JB. As well as putting it on the tube I used the cocktail stick to put some in the threads of the case before putting the tube back in, as well as making sure none found its way into the tube! This first photo makes it look like I've been a bit messy with the JB but trust me I haven't, the metal surrounding the tube is clean and free of any over spill.

Below you can just about see the JB filling the small gaps the gen part doesn't...

Let's hope that once it cures it will have done the job?!

Gave it a go and sadly it didn't work but, rather than using JB Weld I used some Evostick epoxy I had for a small job a couple of months back... Was this my downfall, will only JB do the trick?

Some helpful advice there guys, thank you. I'll pay the watchsmith another visit and if he's at all worried I'll happily take it on myself.  I'll post the results when complete!

On 15/10/2016 at 8:49 AM, jackflash said:

Part no.: 090ST1242 is the tube for the He Valve not the crown

Part no.: 090ST1232 is the tube for the crown for both cases 168.1653 (PO 42mm 2500) and 168.1623 (SM PRO 300M), plus many other cases too.

You need to go the JB Marine Weld route or ask your watchmaker to create a bush between case and tube.

Thinking back, I used JB Marine Weld and haven't had any issues.

Managed to miss this somehow? Apologies.

JB Weld it is. My watchman is nervous about fitting it straight, I think fitting the crown to the tube first, will make it easier... as long as it doesn't end up getting stuck together?! I'm concerned about overspill entering the tube.

Popped in to the watch smith's today and got to have a good look at things. Nice to see the watch disassembled having never done it myself!

The original tube dimensions are quite different to the gen parts I ordered. After looking harder it turns out the case number on the inside of my watch backing (168.1653), differs to the case number that the Cousins site suggests the tube I ordered, will fit (168.1623). This would completely explain the problem if these case numbers are a true reflection to the the gen(?), and their onwarad ability to accept the relevant gen parts. If so, the Cousins site seems to suggest I need tube part no 090ST1242... and they can't supply it. Even if I manage to find I wonder if it will accept the gen crown I have?

Sorry for the onslaught of questions! I'm hoping someone may have come across this before and help pin point the type of rep I have and an outcome, before I go down the route of using some sort of agent to bond the tube in place.

7 hours ago, jackflash said:

Photos would help. How much difference are we talking about? If it's the V5 PO 42mm case, the parts should fit.

Here's a link you might find useful:

 

24 minutes ago, jackflash said:

Well, if tube is slightly too small for the case, you might need to epoxy the tube in place with Marine Weld. Here's a link to the job being done next door on a 45mm PO:

https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/92079-45-5mm-Planet-Ocean-Gen-Crown-amp-Tube-Installation

 

I'm not a member of any other forums so thank you for the link. Mine is threaded like the earlier link. I have only spoken to the watch smith on the phone so far. I'll pay them a visit tomorrow amd have a look to see how much smaller the tube is and take it from there. Thanks again, I'll report on my findings!