gioarmani

Ulysse Nardin--the Trilogy of Time.

Shouldn't the paint be completely rubbed off the second button from the bottom?

Interesting PO (pics down the right side): http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...%3DXed%26sa%3DN

Motion seconded. "Too expensive"? Go back to Googling for the best rep, if you think they're too expensive.

Thank you.

Here's as close as I've gotten: This is the one that fooled 3 dif ADs--not intentionaly, either--I didn't go into an AD expecting to fool them; I went in and told them it was fake, to see their reaction to it. They were the ones telling me it was real. It wasn't until I let him take the band off that he believed me--he said he was actually was going to tell me to add the watch to my home-owner's policy.

Only a little over a week left until Christmas; thought I'd give this one one last bump for those that don't have it yet. Happy Holidays to all!

If that pic is of a rep straight from the box, before re-lume, holy Jesus. I hope the blue SMP is as good. If anyone else can take a pic of their newest one, please do!

Allow me to repost...myself...yet again...: First (slightly off track but still relevant) I'd like to say--in the long-run--it's probably wisest to stay away from Asian movements, if you can. Good luck getting non-swiss parts and better luck getting it fixed correctly. I know a lot of people like Asian movements and might disagree with me, but you'll do best to stick with ETA (Swiss movements). They last longer, are a snap to find parts for, and are more reliable over the long-term. Now that we've segued into the ETAs, it's a bit easier to narrow your search from here. I've ordered from almost every dealer on the boards, and then some (including watches from dealers I did not do business with directly, but instead purchased from other board members), and this is what I've come to find. Please do bear in mind I would never play favorites and I certainly wouldn't allow any relationship--business or personal--interfere with my judgement, so I'll try to be unbiased towards any particular dealer, by attempting to speak only from the fact I've personally encountered from my purchases, and the purchases I've made on behalf and/or at the request of other people. http://www.trustytime.com/index.php?main_p...products_id=256 (first Sub on his Sub page, for $188--link doesn't work, for some reason...) In an over-all view, I believe Andrew's "relaunched" version of the Submariner (above) to be the best on the current market. This is, of course, a bit generalized but taking into account the aesthetic pros & cons of all the Subs out there, I think this one tilts the scale to it's favor. Now, the ETA Subs from both Josh & Andrew are much better than the past generations and have better bands, crisper dial prints, and closely perfected crowns & crown-guards. EL's is also a spectacular watch, seeing as it's the same body & band that Andrew sold before replacing it with the "relaunch". You also have the choice between vintage and non-vintage models. The vintage would probably be more fun to mod. A vintage Sub fresh from the dealers without mods tends to look so new (without, of course, said modifications) that no one will believe it's real, for its "age". And the believability factor is a heavily weighing option (if not the primary reason) for purchasing a Rolex rep; don't believe those who say they don't care about the brand, they just "like the way it looks", as opposed to simply buying the $30 Timex that looks the exact same. wink.gif So stick with the new design of Sub, if you don't plan on doing much of anything to it, other than wearing it to have the Rolex name on your wrist. Now similar to almost every other mass-manufactured good on the planet, these Swiss movements are assembled in China. The parts are manufactured in Switzerland, but simply put together elsewhere to absorb a great portion of the labor cost. Eta has their movements assembled in China for most all their buyers: Cartier, Tiffany's, Oris, Baume & Mercier, Tag Heuer, etc. Contrary to popular belief, the vast majority of Swiss movements come oiled--they don't all come dry. If they did, they'd all be dead in a matter of weeks. You most likely won't/shouldn't need to have it serviced (disassembled & oiled) for about 2-3 years of average wear. Most Swiss watch makers suggest a five-year service & cleaning. Also contrary to general consensus, these watches are more waterproof than the credit they're generally given; the sports models, mind you, not the more refined banker's watches like Vacheron Constantin, Patek, etc. It's worth the extra $20, or whatever your area watch-smiths currently charge, to have it pressure tested. I've yet to have one (of my own, or one I've tested for somebody else) that failed waterproofing, and I swim & shower in all of mine. I'd have to say, depending on which model you're looking for--especially in the Rolex category--Andrew or Josh are your best bet for the best models (go with Davidsen for your Panerai). In true fairness to all the others, the dealers on here are all trustworthy & credible; otherwise they wouldn't be allowed to continue to ply their trade on the board. I've purchased a slew of reps over the past few months, for myself and other people (Subs, GMTs, Datejusts, Daydates, Daytonas, Omegas, Panerai, Cartier, Bulgari, mens & womens, etc...), and I've found these two gentlemen to be the most courteous, the most efficient, and to have the most consistency in their service, their expedited shipping, and their product. http://perfect-clones.com/ http://www.trustytime.com/ If I had to pick a runner up (in the Rolex category), it would definitely be EL (Eddie Lee). http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e186/300thomas/ He's got a great case with almost perfect CGs, and the best dial print out there. I've reason to believe it's the same one Andrew uses in his "relaunch", and the one TTK has in his Asian model as well. If you don't want to pay the $90 to have your Sub serviced in the next 3 years, or the $20 to pressure-test it, but do wish to swim in your Submariner, then the "perfect" Subs are a good choice for you. I have come to find however, that the "perfect" subs are either utilizing different parts (primarily the cases) that seem to possess slight irregularity's in shape that stray not only from the regular ETA Sub reps, but also the shape of the gens as well. The pearls on the bezel insert tend to be a little flat, rather than having a proper dome shape to them, and the serrated edge on the crowns tend to have more rounded edges, rather than coming to a "point" like they do on the regular Subs. Compared to my gen, the "perfects" also have a date-mag that's a bit too big. A lot of people have the notion that the date window (the white portion of the datewheel that shows through the opening in the dial, directly underneath the cyclops eye) is supposed to almost completely fill the viewing area of the entire cyclops. It's not. In fact, if you take a trip to an AD, you'll see they only fill about 3/4 of the cyclops. From my own personal experience, I think it's more cost-effective to purchase a regular Sub (the models around $200), and if you wish, pay your smith the extra $90 to have it serviced/oiled (but definitely get it pressure-tested!). This works out much cheaper than the "perfect" Subs, and I feel you'll actually wind up with a better looking watch. I hope this was helpful.

Damn nice.

Thanks. Anyone willing to take a shot of their SMP rep lume?

No; the winder simulates the movement of the wrist, not only to turn the rotor, but also to constantly change positions to keep them out of the afore mentioned ones for prolonged periods of time. I'm not an expert, but I don't think what modicum of body heat the movement receives is enough to change the viscosity of watch-oil.

Works for me-I've got (now) six Etas (2836 & 2671) all synched with each other, almost to second. The way I do mine is like this: 1) Open the digital clock on your computer. 2) Remove the case-back 3) Stop the second hand on the watch by pulling the crown out to the time-set position, to activate the hacking movement (stop the second hand directly at the twelve o'clock position). 4) Then roll the minute hand forward to where it will be, one minute from now. 5) When the digital second hand on the computer reaches 12 o'clock, push the crown back in so the watch & the computer's clock are now synched to the exact hour, minute & second. 6) Put the watch on a winder for a night & compare your watch to the computer's clock after 24 hours to see how far off they are. 7) Pop the caseback. For example, if the watch is now fast by 10 seconds per 24 hours, simply adjust the screw so that it loses 10 seconds for every 24 hours; alternatively, do the opposite, if it's slow by 10 seconds. (old photo for something else, so ignore A & B ) Each notch towards "+" represents a 5 second gain per 24 hours. Each notch towards "-" represents a 5 second loss per 24 hrours. Adjust accordingly Now repeat steps 3-7, to test it's accuracy. This should be perfected after a couple of days. I technically have no way to measure the movement's beat-rate via electronics or machinery, but don't really care about that, as long as the watch is keeping near-perfect time. I've now got four synched automatic watches that are so precise, I can literally watch the second hand roll over the 12 o''clock position at the very second when the time on my cell phone changes minutes. They're damn near almost exact as digital or quartz watches now. Note: Depending on what position you store your automatic watch in, will play a role in determining how many seconds it gains or loses every night--this is why I keep them on a winder, so that they are constantly moving and not at rest (in the same position). If you lay an automatic watch flat & level (with the crystal facing up), it will usually gain a couple of seconds per night. If you lay the watch on its side (with the crown facing down) it will lose a second or two per night. Contrarily, if it's stored on its side (crown facing up), it will generally lose 2 seconds--or more--per night.

Is that a gen or a rep in your pic? Or are you referring to a different watch?

Red Snapper "Alicante" Ingredients • 2 to 3 large sweet, yellow onions, diced • 2 pounds Red Snapper fillets • 4 bell (green) peppers, sliced into rings • 1/2 cup olive oil (ext virgin, if handy) • 1 teaspoon salt • 1/2 teaspoon pepper • 1 Tb tomato paste • 3/4 cup brown beef stock gravy • 1 cup Sauternes wine, or other sweet, dessert wine(e.g., late harvest riesling, tokaj, muscat, etc.) • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1/4 to 1/2 cup sliced almonds • 8 large shrimp, (cleaned & cooked) Preparation Place about 7/8 of the onions & some of the peppers in the bottom of a 13 x 9 x 2-inch casserole (i prefer the all-clad steel as opposed to ceramic); place the snapper on top of onions, lightly salt & pepper it & cover with the almonds. Place the remaining pepper rings & onions on top of that. In a bowl mix together remaining ingredients; gently pour over casserole. Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for approximately 30 minutes, or to your liking. Serves 4. Goes great with Spanish/yellow rice.

Here's some shots from my gen: I've found some shots on here of the black dial version where the rep lume looks fantastic! Does anyone have any shots of the blue SMP lume? Feel free to post them here & show off your skills.

Off topic, but speaking of fish, I have a wonderful new recipe for red-snapper "Alicante", if anyone wants it. It's an oven broiled snapper, with a gravy made of Sauternes, bell peppers, and almonds. Fantastic.

Excellent. Thank you.

Do the new Blue Sea Pro reps have lume that good too? If they do, screw it; I'm returning my gen.

Actually, Mr. Josh has agreed to replace/fix the watch as it's only 4 or 5 months old. God bless him for it. I do sincerely appreciate your offer though, Zig. If any do ever need repair, I promise to send them to you instead of dealing with the [censored] around here.

One last question, if you look at the dial print on this, it's all white. Tonight I went to a different AD, and they had A Sea Pro similar to this, but the Omega symbol was a piece of steel glued to the dial, not painted like it is here, and the word "Seamaster" was in red ink & not white. The only other major difference was the case-back had a much more prominent & larger etching, like the PO. Has anyone seen this model before, or is this the latest generation of gen?

South Florida as in Miami/Ft Laud, or South as in Sarasota/Naples? I'm not fond of driving that far, but others might be closer. We tried once, but it sort of fizzled out: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...&hl=florida Good luck!

Josh has the best one, hands down. Period. http://perfect-clones.com/cha10008-black-c...rtz-p-2282.html You won't find a better one out there from any other dealer.

Straps. Easier to chew through.

Yes, but modern girls aren't supposed to have "carpet". I'm going to take it for a second opinion and see what happens, or I may just say screw it and replace it. Since his wait was 3-4 weeks, where do you sit currently, The Zigmeister?