danielv2000

Gents, thanks for the feedback.  Prices have indeed reached crazy levels.  I do regret not getting into Patek’s earlier.

I just wish there were decent reps of vintage models.  While I do look like the modern 5711 and 5726, nothing beats that old school 40’s-60’s look which are timeless.

8 hours ago, freddy333 said:

I have no recent experience with Phong's watches, but, back when I was more active, I had some (repair) experience with a few of his Rolex frankens, which varied from satisfactory to nightmarish (worn parts cemented in place, etc.). As I recall, The Zigmeister posted a number of threads detailing some of what he found inside these watches.

At that price level, I would either buy a 2 or 3 hand gen or educate yourself on the parts required to build a franken, gathering them yourself & having a local professional watchmaker assemble everything for you.

 

Another option would be to consider 1 of the recent high-end Patek reps that contain gen-like movements. As is the general rule with reps, avoid the more complicated models & those with 'gems' & you should not have too many problems. Unfortunately, these high-end Patek reps are somewhat rare (I tried to purchase a Calatrava recently, but the factory ultimately said the watch was not currently available & had no ETA when they would be), so you may need to spend some time & effort to track 1 down.

Thanks Freddy.  

I’ve also started looking online for vintage pieces of the same era - ie: 1940-1960.  Watches that look almost identical to the 1518 or 2499 just with a different name and obviously, movement.   I wonder if such a dial can be “refinished”.

It’s been awhile since I’ve posted here.   I’ve started thinking about a high-end Patek Philippe franken.   I’ve fallen hard for the 1518 and 2499.  Unfortunately, there are not many options out there.

Other than Phong, who is still in the game, can anyone recommend less pricey alternatives?  I’ve reached out to Phong and it’s north of $20K.  Not even sure what parts, dials, etc he’s using.

Thanks for any input.

On 9/10/2022 at 10:18 AM, kidcreole said:

Great thread!
Excuse the 6536!

No excuse needed. That’s a beauty

Looks like refund was issued based on YouTube video


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Thanks for the tip, Nanuq.

As luck would have it, I broke a springbar swapping bracelets today.

I have an inventory of the old TC 20mm springbars.  What’s the best source for the best 19mm springbars?

thank you

following

good luck with the project

I recently put up this case-set for sale after having purchased it from CC33.    I have not had worked on many projects in the last few years.  Who currently is the best dial-maker?  I’ve seen a couple on Phong’s site.  Any one else?

Thanks

I must admit i kinda like!  Verrrrry nice.

2 hours ago, tomhorn said:

I look at one in particular nearly every day ....  

Ahh yes!!!  It’s been awhile.

Very unique dial.  Enjoy this classic!

Have not looked at Franken Daytona’s in a long while. 

Given the increase in the 62XX in general, what does a gen dial go for these days?

On 1/11/2019 at 8:04 PM, dbane883 said:

 

 

Keep in mind that the 3-6-9 dials had the brass plate “carved” out I believe, to hold the luminous rather than just being applied to the plate on top of the lacquer. If you want it done right, that’s the way to go.

 

 

This is why the knowledge of vintage rolex on RWG is second to none.

Any 3-6-9 dials with red depth?  I seem to be weak at the knees for that one...

14 hours ago, Nanuq said:

This is a worthy endeavour but be prepared to pay 2 or 3 times what you anticipated.  I built a couple based on Silix etc oversized cases and they were just .... wrong.

 

The 6536 Small Crown is tiny on the wrist and thinner than you can imagine.  The 6538 uses roughly the same dimensions but it's thicker.  It's very hard to get the right relative size to the pieces.  Look at mine and Bart's ... the bezel has to extend over the edge of the case just the slightest amount on the 9:00 side and the 3:00 side is tougher.  The big crown has to clear the bezel by just a smidgen and it has to seat next to the case.  I wound up experimenting with countersinking my gen 702 tube into the case to get just the right clearances.  The bezel can't be too thick top to bottom and it needs the slightest gap underside between the case and bezel ... they're not supposed to rub.  The lugs begin the curve of the top surface at the flat ring beneath the bezel, and are already curving down and away as they appear beneath the coin edge.  Most cases extend the flat surface out too far before they begin the curve.  The sides are not vertical, so you have to make sure the tube hole is drilled parallel to the deck, not perpendicular to the side.  Then there's the much coveted "canoe" shape to the lugs as their tips extend downward.  Phong and MQ do this, but you have to be relentless with MQ so he knows that you know he's willing to send you crap, and push him into sending the good stuff.  He'll complain ... who cares?  Be politely pushy and do not take no for an answer.  As for the crystal, a gen T-17 will cost more than a cheap car, and it's really the only correct part.  Watch out for aftermarket pieces sold in "genuine wax envelopes", those are easy to fake too.

 

When you're done you'll have an icon and you'll be astounded how small it is.  You'll forget you're wearing it, which is exactly how these are supposed to be.  Remember they are tools, nothing more.  A commercial diver straps on his watch (or they used to!) as part of his rig... it's just a tool.  The only care you give it when you're at work is once in awhile you remember not to smash it as you're moving something heavy.  I have over 1,000 hours as a commercial diver and watches are only in the way, the divemaster is in charge anyway.  But it's a good backup.  So 6538 or 5510 or 1665, it's a tool to be cared for by keeping it clean, tested and regulated.  It will show signs of much use, and much care, and keep great time.  My 1665 has new seals and the band is stretched beyond belief.  That's about perfect.

 

Good luck on this adventure!  Make sure you get a GOOD dial and case, and the rest you can improve over time as funds allow.  It's gonna be expensive.

 

THanks for the heads-up.  Having seen and held CC33’s beauty in-hand, I am entering the dark side as a willing participant!

Thanks guys!  Not helping at all.   Me wants one!   

Nanuq, that is what I am talking about!

Happy new year all.  It’s been a little while since I’ve posted.  One of my to do’s for 2019 is securing a beautiful 6538.  A few years back it was all the craze here led by our knowledgeable CC33 and dbane.  

Let’s see them beauties.  This is likely a long-term project for me.

3 hours ago, marqtz said:

On 8/16/2013 at 10:31 AM, danielv2000 said:

On the classic SSDs (not the BP or superlumed Ultimates) is there a way to remove the bezel without damaging it or the insert? I don't think these pop out like gens do, correct?

Thank you for the help!!

Is it a Z series?

That's a trip down memory lane!  If memory serves me, it is one of the famous z series!

On 9/10/2017 at 9:04 AM, d4v3 said:

Daniel Wong pushers (6239 Valjoux 23/ mystery movement case)  

Pusher Cap: 2,7mm height

Pusher stem: 6,64 mm

Pusher base: 3,2 mm (this is the one that seems to be bigger for you, isn't it?)

 

you have the Ofrei ones and they have same specs as per gen.

 

Why don't you try to get a full set (pair) and replace them both instead of replacing just one, set should match.

hope it helps

 

Thanks for the info.. will measure mine carefully.  Alas, I may have to order a full set of 2 matching pushers.

Still no luck... Might buy a cartel 6239 and see if the pushers fit.  Any opinions if this will work?

Very nice!

Beautiful!

Here are some pictures. Clearly the bottom pusher is longer.

I will remove both pushers and post side by side pics of them. Over a year of back and forth on the pushers and this v72 has seen very little wrist time.

Sad.






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