freddy333

As usual, nicely done.

Looks good Tribal.

Still a beauty & it may be the camera angle, but it looks like the index markers at 3 & 6 may not be straight.

Looks beautiful.

Based on the way the watch sits (close) to your wrist, it looks like you bought 1 of the 4130 clone Daytonas, which has the proper bezel & caseback profiles. Correct?

On 3/4/2023 at 1:28 PM, Tribal said:

Damm the 5513 is stolen in transit to his owner!,
I'm really [censored] off.
Al lot of work for nothing.

Sorry to hear the sad news. Unfortunately, crime has become the new normal & the system has become an accessory to those crimes.

I know it does not help in this case, but I ship anything of value via registered mail & give the tracking number to the receiver so both of us can track it all the way. Yes, registered mail is very slow because every single person who takes possession of the package must sign for it & note the time/date the package was in their possession & the package is kept in locked containers when not in a mail employee's possession, but I have never lost a package using this shipping method.

4 hours ago, horologist said:

If it is a sliding change you would have to be incredibly skilled to get them both at the same distance from the centre as any microscopic difference could cause a wobble in the balance wheel or never get the timing  right either unless this process also uses a special too too!

In some cases it is also luck like getting beat error to be exactly zero!!

I am confident that a properly assembled Longines can be adjusted to a fine degree. However, regardless of how 1 adjusts Longines' balance sliding screws, the procedure will be less fine-tunable & repeatable than Rolex's Microstella system, which uses a wrench with discrete adjustment indicators & a balance fitted with 2 pairs of Microstella nuts providing consistently repeatable +/-1 sec/day or +/-.7 sec/day tuning increments.
All other things equal, due to the subtle adjustments possible with a free-sprung balance, attaining 0 beat is very easy.

5 minutes ago, Timelord said:

My problem was figuring  out if there was an issue with the new genuine hair spring as I had made different adjustments of the stud block rotation to get the hair spring dead centre between regulator pins or whether I was doing something wrong falsely believing I had it right in the centre.  If it was pilot error then I know I have a good hair spring,  if there is some issue with the hair spring then I could be chasing my tail forever! I posted to reach  out to anyone having changed a balance on their etachron and if they ran into similar problems ! This is what can make or break a persons zeal to move on!

Getting the hairspring centered between the regulator pins is the key to getting these things well-regulated.

In honor of the 1 year anniversary of the war in Ukraine, I am wearing my (often accurate) Russian Commando Frogman watch

16 hours ago, horologist said:

I am not sure which direction is for speeding up or slowing down but I believe it works on centripetal forces on the weight of the balance wheel when adjusted!

Imagine an ice skater spinning in a circle. As she folds her arms in close to her body, she spins faster, as she folds them back out away from her body, she spins slower.
These centrifugal adjustments in balance wheels work the same way - as you move them inwards, the wheel spins faster, as you move them outwards, the wheel spins slower. I have never worked on a Longines with the type of adjusters indicated in your pic, but I have a good bit of experience with Rolex's Microstella system & it works (very well) as advertised.

18 hours ago, Timelord said:

The first one is exactly the one I bought which  has been a nightmare for me to adjust and regulate,  which was the main  reason for my post!  These are the balance and hairspring only !  Not the complete bridge and balance! 

The Etachron instructional video posted previously is a good guide. Did you try it?

21 hours ago, horologist said:

the goofy setup by Rolex that uses the micro stellar complication , where again you would need a special tool to time them and I do not see any special benefit!

Rolex's Microstella system is not designed to provide a performance improvement, it just permits you to make very fine & consistently repeatable timing adjustments via a pair of nuts that are difficult, if not nearly impossible, via a  traditional regulator setup.

Yes, the system is finicky & requires a special tool (Microstella wrench). However, if you have the tool & know-how, the system allows for a much more accurate degree of timing than any other system I am aware of.  
Before I got used to it, I did not get it either. But once you get it, you get it.

On 2/22/2023 at 5:41 AM, Timelord said:

To answer your question, it is a. Eta 2824-2! When they are factory timed, the accuracy is amazing almost chronometer standard

Ebay 265389584078 or 254991498290

Startime & other watch parts houses sell them as well.

Nice work!

Most ETA balances &/or hairsprings are still available, so why not just replace the hairspring or balance without the cock/bridge?
What is the caliber model?

Did you overhaul the movement (including pegging all of the jewels) before replacement? It sounds like you have a gummy or worn cap jewel that is affecting timing when the balance is running on that jewel.

49 minutes ago, Ronin said:

Blue is gen. Based on serifs and A.  ?

LOL. Went back and then read your last response. I sat and corrected. 

Left is gen.

Wearing my freddy333 Daytona today

On 2/12/2023 at 10:45 AM, porschespeedster said:

One on the right seems to have more depth and detail in the printing style.

The 'R' seems a bit more elegant...the tiny serifs on the small letters seem a bit more pronounced...all the letters seem a bit more raised. This could also be the light/the angle of course...as the left pic is more straight-on

Although the comparison macro pic post above had many views, I am not surprised only 1 viewer took up the challenge. The differences are more interpretive than real.

porschespeedster -- You are correct on all counts except for 1 -- the dial on the right is actually the fake. But you are in good company because I just asked a friend who is a master watchmaker with a Rolex parts account to check it, inside & out, & he assumed it was real, too. He nearly fell off his chair when I revealed the truth. Took a 2nd look & still could not believe what he was seeing. The only tell is the watch's lack of heft, which is revealed when the real, SOLID gold Daytona & the fake are each weighed on an accurate scale. (The steel Big Kahuna does weigh the same as the gen. )

The point of this little exercise is that for the 1st time in my decades of collecting -- & although I would be the 1st to admit that I am NOT the world's most knowledgeable Rolex authority, I AM pretty savvy -- if I had not known the background of these 2 watches, I would NOT be able to tell the gen from the fake. Even upon close inspection with a loupe. Weight differences aside, even if I could hold both gen & modified fake watches in my hands and inspect them with a quality loupe, inside & out, I could NOT tell the difference without disassembling the movement (which WOULD reveal the fake movement's non-Rolex-like internal parts fit & finish). Yes, there are slight granular differences in the exposed surface metal of the rotor & bridges that CAN be seen, but, if all else looked copasetic, these would not even register in my brain or I would dismiss them as within the normal manufacturing tolerances I have seen in all Rolexes.

More to the point, if I was able to figure out that these new clones are nearly indistinguishable from their gen counterparts (& literally indistinguishable with just a few gen parts swaps), I am sure Rolex has too & probably long before I did. So it is only a matter of time until word gets out to the wider gen collecting community & then into the gen watch buying marketplace. Once this starts getting reported by social media influencers, Rolex will be forced into a corner because gen buyers who love to proclaim 'I would never wear a fake Rolex!' will quickly change their tune to 'I would be crazy to spend $50k on a Swiss-made Daytona when I could buy the same thing from the Chinese for less than a grand -- & have it on my wrist in a matter of days rather than years!' &, as you can see HERE & HERE, Rolex is only digging themselves deeper into the hole the Chinese may bury them in.

As auto indicated recently, I think it is likely that we will be seeing THE MOTHER OF ALL ROLEX REPLICA CRACKDOWNS sometime soon. Things will have to get crazy, so get yours while you can.

p.s. Eventually, the FASHION winds of watch collecting are going to change direction & most of the short-attention-span under-50s who, just 6 short years ago, were proudly proclaiming 'I do not need a watch' or 'Rolexes are for old men' will dump their recently amassed (& often massive) Rolex collections for the next big FASHION thing (probably some AI-based, beam-me-up-Scotty dual-reality gadget ). When that happens, the entire market may experience the largest collapse since the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. 

2 hours ago, Zigoto said:

Hi guys, 

I’m still trying to find a PP Nautilus 3800… but no one can have any ideas how to to get one ! Some TD’s said “not for the moment”

If there’s some Factories reading this post on the forum, please make a new batch  I’m not the only one who is on the hunt 

I have NO experience with them, but this seller appears to have some Nautilus 3800s.

1 hour ago, jazziii said:

the stem broke off beyond the movement edge, impossible to get a grip on it, had to remove the plate to access and push the other end (or did i have to?) anyways i did

Is this what you see once the dial & date wheels are removed?

I may have missed something, but why did you disassemble the movement just to replace the stem?
Once the hands/dial were removed, the stem release was visible/accessible. If that did not work, it should be fairly easy to guide the stem out with a small screwdriver while operating the release.

I have never attempted to replace Miyota parts with aftermarket Chinese parts, but I have a feeling, as Auto suggested, it would be alot easier just to replace the movement.

Caught my APH, red-handed, today

This is 1 of the most objective, no-nonsense Rolex videos I have seen, especially for women -- I Finally Got My Hands On a Rolex!

In the brief time since The Golden Cuckoo was completed & seen in the wild, I must have been asked 'Is that real?' half a dozen times. More than any other watch in my experience. I always respond with 'What do you think?' The answer is always some variation of 'I don't know, but I wish I had 1!'

Now, I know the Cuckoo will easily fool Joe Q Public & many Rlx dealers, but is it good enough to fool a bunch of experienced, hard core rep & franken guys? So let's see -- Based ONLY on the dial text (circled in red), which of these is a gen & which is a fake? & state the reasoning behind your choice. If you are unable to tell 1 from the other, just say that. Remember, 1 of these IS a fake. 

3 minutes ago, JSebWC said:

The finished product!!

I think you need a better handset. The current hands look very rep & betray everything else. Or, at least they look sufficiently suspect to make me feel the need to give everything else a closer inspection. With a proper set of hands, the dial might just pass without drawing too much attention to itself. It is 1 of those cases where if everything else feels right & looks homogenous, I might accept what I see on face value.

Alligoat -- Do you have any info on this?
Do you mean that Phong's son was arrested per Rolex lawyers, or do you mean he was physically attacked by police?

In spite of the dial's baked-in issues, the most obvious tell for me are the hands, which look wrong/aftermarket & new/artificially-aged. In fact, if it were not for the hands, I might not even be provoked into taking a closer look at the dial.

I would try to locate a more accurate handset & give them a more natural-looking patina. If you have not already done so, I would google pics of vintage gen Subs of the same era & find/study the appearance of a set you like. Then, try to replicate that exact look. In my experience, having a  single, clear target to copy always inspires creativity & results in a better finished product.