RobbieG

Thanks YM. Much appreciated. And this brings up that same point again. A lot of people who haven't spent a lot of time with them may not really be all that into UN from looking at pics, etc. (not saying you, yello - you may well have really checked them out). But I do have to say again that I never really gave them a look until I really started to settle in and handle some watches to get more of an understanding about their designs and movements, etc. Do yourself a favor and seek out an AD. Some may still not really get taken by anything, but I guarantee some of you will have a kind of "Ah ha" moment and something will just click. There is nothing to the brand other than the extention of the marine chronometers to the wrist and a bunch of variants - MMD, MMDchrono, etc, etc, etc. and then the complications. That is it really. But the depth and interconnectivity of all the ideas is fascinating when you figure it all out. It is weird but it is like UN is purposefully keeping secrets and never really saying what they are about. It is sort a discovery process. Never seen anything quite like it with any other brand...

UN's pics that are circulating are mostly terrible. I'm sure they might get more fans otherwise. They have always been this obscure little brand who's followers all came to be loyal to them exactly as I have - by having a local AD that isn't a superstore. Mom and Pop type stores with at least one guy - usually the owner who knows a ton about the brand and has the perfect mix of stock. You can't buy UN's from pictures, you have to touch them and get to know them. Maybe thatis why they keep the pics lame? UN is one of the only independent high end brands left. Consider this Piaget, Lange, Jaeger, VC, Panerai, IWC, Cartier, Breguet, Blancpain, Glashutte, Droz, and many more are either part of Swatch or Richmont (I'm trying to focus on the higher end stuff) That leaves basically Patek, AP, and Nardin being all that is left for higher end independent companies - excluding Rolex of course. UN is the smallest of the group with an annual production for 2009 estimated at 15-18,000 units and sales of 190 Million CHF or around $160 million USD. Of the four independents it is also the least known, and survives on its reputation with WIS and collectors of creative complications. They just don't have the snob appeal of PP or AP and for that reason alone I especially admire them. They get respect not from history or huge sales, but rather from earning it very much in the present with innovations. They just dwarf everyone in the industry when it comes to recent, useable and saleable innovations. Sure thier high complications are expensive- they all are, but evertime one of the snobbier companies changes a dial and puts a touby in it they sell it for 300K and call it a limited edition. I love that UN doesn't play that game. When they annouce something new it is going to be really new and if they win an award (and they often do), you can be sure they will have earned it as they don't just have to show up to get one like certain brands. It is kind of like a lobby system and I like that UN stays on the outside of it pretty well. They play the game, but they do it with class. The bottom line is they are the underdog and they keep on coming and they do it without being big or selling out. I love that!

Thanks IB. I like them both equally, but I'm sure there will be some that will like the look of this and others that will like the look of the MMD better. Very different pieces design wise and movement wise obviously. The MMD is easier to capture in pics though. This one is proving to be a bit tough. It is stunning in person and none of the pics quite nail it just yet...

If I ever get rich, the addition of either (or both) the perpetual calendar or the alarm to the base complications would be a must. Nothing like a travel watch that works like this plus has a mechanical alarm. Much better to wake up to than the hotel phone system... Incidentally, that is one of the things I love about UN. They start with a basic idea and then offer every conceivable version of it. Like the Marine line. They are all based on the 1846 ships chronometers, but they offer it in multiple sizes, dials, bezel or no bezel, chrono or non-chrono. Similarly, the GMT complication on this watch is offered in two sizes, multiple dials, and then added to with the perpetual calendar and minute repeater/alarm complications and then those are offered in multiple sizes, dials, etc. The lines look deep but they are really just extentions of a few core ideas so everyone can get exactly what he wants. I love that. Even this watch - it comes in two dials in the 42MM just for steel and several more in gold, plus bracelet or strap makes it an entirely different looking watch. Then it is available in a 40MM size with multiple dials, strap, bracelet options. Something for everyone...

Thanks brother. I have great guys like you on the forum as inspiration to keep my chops up. Funny that the wristy is the best of the bunch. I killed myself trying to get the others but that super diffused light just wasn't around today. I'll get some better ones. Natural light is hit and miss. Hopefully I'll get some more posed shots that really capture the essence of this one...

Finally had a chance to get a few shots of the UN Dual Time Big Date. And as expected, it is on my wrist as we speak. There are some more pics and some information about the piece here http://www.rwg.cc/members/Genuine-Ulysse-N...Dua-t90842.html ...

Well here it is. I finally had the chance to clean and shoot the only watch in my current collection that had never been photographed. I must say the light was very challenging today and the few pics I got are OK, but not all that great. Oh well, I'll keep trying. For those of you who are unfamilar with this piece it has a very interesting GMT complication. It is in my opinion the finest and easiest to use dual time watch ever invented. The bonus of the Big Date complication is a nice extra plus. The patented GMT module is unique to UN and is used in the Dual Time collection, as part of their Perpetual Calendar collection, and as part of the Sonata Cathedral which has a countdown timer and mechanical alarm as well. Using the GMT function could not be easier. The window at 9 o'clock is the home time display expressed as 24 hour time. When at home, you simply have the standard hour and minute hands set to match the 24 hour display, with care of course to be sure you have them set correctly so that the date changes at 12 only when the home time display reads 24. When you travel, you adjust to your new timezone by using the pushers on the left side of the case. To adjust forward or backward you click the either the (+) or (-) pusher once for each hour in the correct direction. The hour hand will jump ahead or behind by one hour for each click. But here is the really cool part: When you cross midnight the date changes automatically both forward and BACKWARD. With all other watches you have to reset the date if you move backward across midnight. So with this complication you never have to take the watch off your wrist when traveling east or west to do anything. Just click the pusher when you land and you are all set. The date will adjust automatically even if you click backwards across midnite. Very, very cool... I figured out some time ago that I would always have just one GMT in my collection as I love to travel and I searched high and low for the best I could find. This is the one hands down - believe me. I also love the versatility of this piece. It dresses up as easy as it dresses down and is equally at home with jeans, shorts or a suit. A standout is the super deep and rich double AR which is typical for UN. The hands and hour indices are lumed with C3 as is also typical and the application is substantial. It glows like a torch. The hand stitched in house made croc strap is of super high quality as well and has a really cool square profile spine which is super thick. Of course the fit and finish is typical UN and is just beyond world class as usual. I will get more pics when the light is better, including some more of the case, the movement, the deployant and strap, and the blue enamel and white gold crown. In the meantime, enjoy these first few I managed to get today...

I have been able to confirm for you that it is the same as the Aquanaut shown here. My guess is that it is a blend which includes some C7 or C9. You will have to have Vacuum or The Zigmeister or whoever does it do a blend for you from pics like these... http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=36306

These are pretty reasonable for being solid gold. I got one for my girl as well in WG. They list for maybe 12K but you can get them for 5K or so. Not bad for a solid gold watch. They have quartz ETA movements.

UN this morning, but I'm sure there will be another UN this afternoon (hint - hint). Yes, I'm finally gonna shoot the clean and ready to pose UN Dual Time GMT+/- Big Date today (light permitting). So I'm sure this afternoon I'll post an honorary wristie of that one later...

Yeah that is the one. Although who knows on the pricing. The Malte cased Perpetual Calendar Chrono lists for 147K. I need to get some more money under management to start affording pieces like that. A lot more. I'm still of the opinion that a watch can't cost more than a car unless you get so rich it doesn't matter and a new 997 Turbo nicely fitted is right around there. Hmmm...

Yeah no kidding. The movement finishing is just amazing. I'll be happy to score the little handwind basic model which are actually quite reasonable compared to the "wheelbarrow" money for the complications. You know for a while I was on a Lange kick thinking they were superior and don't get me wrong, they are amazing for sure. But from speaking with a lot of high level watchmakers in the past month or so and seeing lots of pics and studying more high end brands in person I have come to the conclusion that Vacheron, Patek and AP all have the same level of finish as Lange. In fact, I had a watchmaker locally who worked at VC for 15 years tell me that Lange only finished what you see to that level, but VC finishes all the parts to that level. No matter really as they are all nice, but one thing is for sure and that is that you pay a big premium for Lange over Vacheron and Patek and I know now there is no reason for that. I also happen to not care for the way the untreated German silver in the Lange movements ages into that brown/gold patina. I have given a lot of thought to my collection and only having what I need and can wear and the only thing missing is a fine dress watch. Then I'm done, other than rotating new watches in and out in any category if I get bored or something new comes along that I think I would rather have - but it won't grow. No adds without a subtraction. Six watches is just enough to cover everything I could ever want to cover in my world. I know that it will be the single most expensive piece in the collection, but it is a relief to know it won't be as expensive as something from Lange - and I don't really love the German designs as much as the Swiss high end designs I discovered. Plus at 40k for the Lange I wanted I honestly don't want to think about justifying how to afford it. That is just a lot of money and I'm not a wealthy guy really. I also wanted something simple so it was going to be between a Patek Calatrava and a Vacheron Patrimony of some kind, but I think I'm sold on the VC handwind in WG. I've got a nice but modest little collection now and I am very grateful for that, but I am looking forward to owning something really, really exceptional one day. I did for a bit when I had the Millenary, but the design was too limiting and goofy. But something happens to you when you hold one of these higher end pieces - even a really simple two hand piece that is hard to describe. They are like heirlooms or something. When you pick these things up you are just saying to yourself - wow, I don't know if I have ever held anything this nice or well made. Kind of blows you away. Anyway, thanks for sharing and by all means, if there is something you think I should consider and have missed on my simplistic dress watch quest - let me know.

You are going to need some tissues for this... http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg...410#msg_4232833

Still around although with either diamond indices or the plain version that looks like the Patrimony Contemporary except with Malte sword hands. Similar, but I prefer the Patrimony for this mind of watch. Love the Malte Chrono though and the Malte Dual Time Regulator piece though.

The latest batch has thinner bezel indices. The original run were fatter but those sold out and it is sort of a v2 without them ever announcing it. They are actually thinner than the gen now though. But I agree that they do look better thinner than thicker if they must be innaccurate at all...

Yeah, that is really nice Ken - the original PT Patrimony which they call Contemporary - my best friend has that one and it is really nice. I just like the Patrimony Traditionelle series a bit better because it is the same thing but with a modern look instead of a more 60's look. The original Patrimony small seconds handwind was 36MM instead of 38MM which the Traditionelle is and the 60's style Patrimony you posted is 40MM. It seems like they have the titles reversed as the one I like is contemporary and the other is more traditional with its 60's look. Hmm. The Traditionelle is more like the original small seconds Pat but larger and again a sort of sleek, modern look to the dial and indices. Here is the original small seconds personally I think Traditionelle is mich nicer than these:

Hold me down. Finally, my on the fence search for my grail in the simple, elegant strapped dress watch category has ended. You can always count on Vacheron to take something incredibly simple and turn it into a work of art. I was nearly sold on the last version of this which is automatic and has the date at 3 and seconds at 9, but I always wished it didn't have a date. I have been wanting to have a fine dress watch for some time, but found I am much more picky about them than sports watches. Of course I would choose white gold for it though. I wonder what the chance is of a rep of either of the Patrimony Traditionelle's is - auto or manual so I could check it out first? Probably not since they already repped the basic Patrimony I suppose. But wow - what a looker these are. I love the ever so slight modern spin that takes it out and beyond a Patek Calatrava without going too far and breaking the traditional feel...

Giving the DJ some attention today. Just love that 904 steel. Crispy...

Yeah, I saw this before. Most of the bullets are more than a little innacurate or unfair that is for sure...

Cool. Now that is different. Never heard that particular mindset/method before. Makes perfect sense though...

The big craze has gone too far and is finally starting to fall a bit out of favor though. Even Omega's big movie watch. They led out with the 42MM instead of the 45.5MM. One should never feel that a Sub or SD is too small. It isn't too anything. It is just SD or Sub "sized" and that has its place in any core collection. Have the giants if you must, but most of them are not versatile at all. Just food for thought. One size doesn't really fit all unless you err on a slightly smaller size. I'm certain the standard sports watch will still remain in the 38-42MM range as it has been for some time. And if you aren't in your 20's the older professional crowd are starting to frown on big watches and whisper that they look silly especially with anything less than totally casual dress. I'm hearing that a lot lately totally unsolicited. Twice even recently back to back. In fact, a bunch of us were at a cigar bar last week and some young guy came in with some huge watch on (I had no idea what it was even) and one of my clients leaned over to me and said, "Do you think he knows how silly that watch looks...Spongebob..." Swear to God. That is a quote. I was rolling because he was right. Not knocking big watches, just letting you know that the fad appears to be waning.

G, Robbie G. My Mother and you guys are the only ones who are allowed to call me Robbie. Everyone else calls me Rob, but never Robert or Bob. And G isn't the first initial of my last name. But where is the fun without at least a little mystery? I'd tell you what it does stand for , but then I would have to kill you - or at least soak your front door in hairspray and set it on fire. But before you ask, I am an original "G", but not in the rap sense of the word. I hate rap music and I listen mostly to classical and real jazz. A kid who works for me likes rap and I put it in his contract that if I ever hear it in my office he is fired on the spot. I'm also old enough that the term gangbanging makes me think of stripper/porno chicks in LA when I used to be on the road alot - not street thugs with Glocks who sell crack...

Not directly, no. Or at least not usually. Whatever it takes to get diffused light. You just have to feel it out and find a spot that works...

And here he is Tub, a watchmaker to do your mods for you. Maybe the thread was worthwhile after all.

Yeah but of course Bob Frei went completely insane before email was ever invented so he is probably a bad example. You know what they say about people that are barbequed? If you lay on the grill long enough you start to char...