panerai153

Pawn shops in Texas used to be the best place to find used Rolex watches. Every time the oil prices cratered, the pawn shops got a load of Texas Timex's, !! Every "oil man" sported a yellow gold day/date!!


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Where are you located? I have a brand new one I bought for my 6542 project but decided to go with an ETA movement. You can have it if it will help you out.


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I agree, contacting the local PO is the best. Was the address on the package the same as the website address? Even if your tracking number was and international number, the postal service should be able to find where the package is.
How was it sent? Registered mail, EMS, etc.
Hopefully you can get this resolved with the help of our kind brothers here.


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Agree sir, I just read about the attacks. Hopefully the perpetrators will be caught or shot quickly. My thoughts and prayers go out to all the innocent folks who were out having a nice peaceful Saturday evening and were caught up in this cowardly act of wanton violence.
My thoughts after reading this was how this would play out down here where I live. A whole lot of folks have concealed carry permits and are packing all the time. Those guys with knives would have been in for a really unpleasant surprise. The old adage, "never bring a knife to a gunfight"!!!


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There are several problems with bumping up old threads. First, a lot of the guys who contributed to the older threads are no longer here, so asking them a question is physically impossible as they are not around. Another problem is quite a lot of folks don't look at the dates, they see a thread like this and get all excited, ask questions and then are upset or frustrated when they get no answers.
I have no problem at all when someone bumps up and old detailed build thread, as the information is useful even though the OP may be long gone. General discussion threads are another matter as they aren't going to yield much information, and the information contained may well be out of date. Some dead threads are just that, dead and best left to slumber in peace.


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Nice watch. Like others said, never saw this model. Is this a rep of an AP watch or a fantasy watch?


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Sorry to hear of your plight. Unfortunately, watches like all other mechanical objects at some point reach their "end of life" stage. It's often a bitter pill to swallow, because you are giving up a faithful companion, but at that point simple economics prevail. Is it worth spending maybe twice what the watch is worth to get it back on your wrist, or should you retire it to your desk drawer and buy a replacement? Difficult question sometimes, no doubt.


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To the OP, first welcome aboard. We try hard to treat new members with respect and patience. Most of us " old guys" remember when we were noobs and most of us stayed here because we could ask questions with out being insulted or flamed.
We may not be the biggest, but we are the best!)


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If you can find them with a gen ETA 7750 for around 300 USD, I would jump on them. 7750 movements alone are getting up around 400 USD new. If they are new stock, they would be a real bargain. The only thing is if they are used older watches, by the time you add in the cost of service, you may as well spring for a new movement.


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This is total lunacy !!! Who in their right mind would pay that kind of crazy money for an insert. Then 95$ shipping. Hell, if I could find a fool to buy one at this price I would hand deliver it!!


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I own both genuine and replicas as do most of the folks here. We will, never change the minds of genuine (purists) who brand everything as a fake that is not a 100% genuine. Which brings us to another discussion, when is a gen a gen and when is it a fake? As we all know especially with vintage watches, a lot of folks are forced, either by economics or shear unavailability, to use aftermarket parts. If you replace a Rolex 1665 superdome with a Clarks rather than a 30+ year old Rolex Crystal, does that make the 1665 a "fake"? This in itself will become a bigger and bigger factor with old vintage watches where original parts are becoming scarcer and prohibitively expensive. So, to me the lines between genuine and replicas will become more and more blurred over time.

A case in point between fakes and replicas: I have a 1665 that is all genuine except for the MBW case. Is my 1665 a fake? I think not, but to a purist, it is. There are fantastic Rolex Daytonas that our members have built here that are in the same boat, midcase is not Rolex, but everything else is.

Honestly., I enjoy my replicas, wear them as much or more than my gen watches, and frankly could care less what their "classification " is by others. They are mine, I enjoy them, and should anyone ask, I will gladly tell them what parts are original and which are not.

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Beautiful work. These owners are going to have one special watch!!


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I agree with you, as that has always been my point of view. From a genuine watch collector, as well as the law, there is no grey area. Any item which is manufactured to deceive by emulating a copyright or patent protected item by using trademarks, well recognized emblems, logo, etc. is a counterfeit and thus a fake. While we as WUS don't necessarily agree 100% with the above, it is the law. So no matter what we use to differentiate they are all fakes in the eyes of the law. Having said that , from my point of view from "WUS World" it all boils down to construction, quality and functionality. A "replica" should replicate all functions as well as the correct construction of a genuine.


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Probably has a 21j movement as well. As was said this one isn't worth all the time expense and effort to try to make it something it ain't!! Save your money and buy something decent from one of our dealers.


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Don't do anything until we (mod crew) has all the facts. First off when did you ship the watch. Did you have tracking? Did the dealer receive the watch? Have you had any contact with him? We need to know all the facts before we can do anything. By all means, DO NOT open a PayPal dispute or a bank card chargeback at this point.


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Really can't say unless I had both side by side or at least a good photo of each. One question, is the countdown timer functional? If not what do you do when a friend or colleague wants you to demonstrate how it work, and because of the uniqueness someone will surely ask.


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Why don't you move the thread or repost it in the Rolex forum. That's where all the Rolex experts hang out.


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Pretty interesting. What surprises me is not their talent for replicating, but why they haven't tackled really popular movements like the AP sec@12 or the Rolex sec@6 movements. If they ever built some worthwhile replacements for the crappy modded a7750 in those watches, they would sell like hot cakes.


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I would bet that there is another big push by the genuine manufacturers to stop the rep trade. They push hard, and companies like DHL, FEDEX and UPS don't want to buck these companies that spend a lot of dollars on shipping. Not surprising, the mid to high end manufacturers are getting their teeth kicked in right now. Watch sales are down by double digit numbers and they have lots of inventory that's going begging. They see every rep sale as a lost sale for them!!


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My 116710

Gen: Bezel/insert, dial, hands, crystal,crown, DW

Movement: Yuki 3135 converted to GMT by Mike (misiekped)

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Just an update. Got my 116710 back today from maestro Mike. As usual, he did a superb job changing out the parts that needed as well as the reversing wheels and a ratchet wheel with genuine which corrected the rough winding. Mine is working like a genuine now. Regulated to COSC specs as well. I'm a happy camper now, got my favorite back on my wrist.


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That would be a bit more believable.


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As I said, go for it. AFA accuracy, the watch may look pretty accurate. I don't know, because I have never been a fan of the newer Daytonas. What I do know, having had various chronographs including vintage genuine Daytonas for more than 40 years, you very seldom see the center sweep seconds hand moving, unless the wearer is timing something? Within one minute after engaging the seconds counter( center sweep), the subdials counters move. The minute subdials hand moves one minute every time the center seconds hand completes a rotation. From that I could look at your watch from 10 feet away, and in a couple of minutes tell it's a fake. How? Because on all "real" chronographs, the subdials hands move,first the minute totalizer, then after 60 minutes, the hour totalizer moves. On the 2824 they never move, because they are not connected to anything. The Venus ( actually a Seagull ST19 ) is a much more believable movement, as it has a correct small seconds and is a true chronograph movement. It is a Bicompax movement (2subdials) so it has a Small seconds and a minute subdial, the hour subdials is frozen. That movement is a manual wind movement, so I doubt that it would be adaptable to a modern Daytona, as they are all automatic. Certainly not a bad movement for a vintage Daytona though. The biggest problem with modern Daytona is the seconds subdials is at 6. All the 7750 variants have the seconds subdials at 9. The rep manufacturers move the sec@ 9 to sec@ 6 by adding an additional gear train. This gear train is the weak point in all these movements, both the sec@6 for Daytona as well as the sec@ 12 on AP ROO's. Problematic movements, prone to failure and difficult and expensive to repair.
That's my take on Daytonas.


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If that's what you want, go for it, personally, I believe that it's a watch that is easily called out. None of the subdials work, and the sweep seconds hand works all the time, cannot be stopped. Screams fake!!

Domineco and Domi are the same. Go to RepGeek, look under "trusted dealers" open that thread, there will be a list of catagories. Open up "trusted modders" you will see Domineco's Watch Shop, and there you are.

Glad to see you back, if only for a while.

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Never heard of a Daytona with a 2824 movement. That's a non chrono movement can you give us a little more information, photos or links to the sales sites.


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