Omega

I've done a lot in past, but there is always a risk to do it. The steel is very hard and the drill can break off. Also there needs some luck to get the hole 100% in position. I used to begin with a 1mm drill and with even lug till it starts to go in, after that I mount a 1,2mm drill and go thru on correct lug position. You must count in that you need one drill for one hole! If you try the first used drill on second hole it will get wrong...hope this helps.

BTW: I have done it on heavy industial drill machines with 2000 rpm, also with cooling fluid - that's very importand.

After the birth of my daughters I had no time to spend in my hobby for a while. So this should be the first finished project after the break. I hope there are coming some more up...

To the specs:

- GMT IIc from the Noob factory

- Polished rehaut to make the engravings not to be so much present

- gen tube and crown

- cyclops with AR, perfect centred

- BK datewheel, all numbers perfect centred (changed because Noob datewheel has bigger and thiner font)

- serviced ETA 2836-2 witch runs +2cec/day

- replaced inlay to sit deeper in the bezel

Next to do:

- install a CHS module (if someone has one for sale please contact me!)

Enjoy, I hope you like it (and sorry for the bad pics, they are taken with a iPhone):

One month and ten days here, I have ordered two waches from trusty...

You don't need actually a UV lamp. You can dry the glue on daylight in 1-2 minutes - in direct sunlight it takes only a few seconds...we have a big ozone hole, so the UV radiation is doing a good job.

Without kidding - it works fine!

AR wouldn't get off if you heat the crystal from other side (GMT IIc). Tested a few times. On direct heating maybe yes, it depends on the temperature I think.

I've worn the watch now for a couple of days, and I must say - it's not my cup of tea. I will put this soon for sale...

OK,

no answer on this - so I bought it and I hope I don't have spent too much for it. I have to mention that I am not a quartz guy, I hate quartz watches - but this one has something special!

Here now what we a talking about (and sorry, it's not the Raven as I wrote in head, it's only a Airwolf):

THX for lookin'!

Hi,

a friend ownes this watch and it is in 95% condition. Maybe the bracelet has to be polished a little and it will look like new.

He has some problems with his wife (she dropped him out!) and he needs now money.

So how much can he charge for this watch? No papers or box, BTW.

Here a pic of a new one:

Here we go, like you can see the fake bracelet is thinner. And in real it is more visible as on the pic! The bracelet on my 1680 is 100% gen, BTW!

I have a 93150 (from 1998 I think), it has also a rounded 3.

The most giveaway of the rep bracelets is the thickness of the two last links (before the endlinks). They are too thin...

It's a gen. HERE you can read something about it, not same dial but it's the same model.

Good find. It's a very bad copy...it even not deserve to be called "replica"...

IMO he's OK, even if you are not pleased you can get money back...

And no, no joke! I saw it with my own eyes...a double red 1665 (case was reworked on a lathe, a gen movement was built in), all work made by a modder from old TRC (old members know which famous modder I mean), was tried from another member from the forum to be sold on a watch fair (of course a gen watch fair, not on a flea market!). There was no intent to sell the watch, only to see the reaction. From three "experts" the watch was not spotted as fake! They opened the watch, looked at the movement (even the bridge was not correct numbered), and they made really good offers! (best offer a.e., a TT Sub + 2500€ cash!)

The best comes now: After that the 1665 ended at the AD (WEMPE!) with a revision! The only once comment was noticed on the bill, that the HE valve is not working, and there would not be any guarantee for waterproofness 'till full depth! The HE valve BTW, was a cutted drill thru the case!

Please don't tell me about experts...

Edit: Oh, and there was a few more members from TRC present on this "experts-test"...

Seller has 1200+ positives, I would be careful with my accusation. There's always someone who's not pleased with a deal.

Second point is, the used parts he resells has to come from somewhere, they can not appear from air - so he bought them somewhere...right?

I can tell you, the so called "experts" on watch fairs, which are for years dealing whith gens, you can fool with a MBW case and dial! I've seen that with my own eyes...I think if the guy has sold a rep bezel it was not his fault...just look at the other parts he sells...

Hmm, seems that here are only rep experts on this forum...

Hi,

I hope here are some experts on this forum, so I need some advice on selling this on the bay. I don't know how much worth this watch is.

The movement does not run, it seems there is a problem with a jewel on the balance wheel, so it needs to be serviced.

Here the pics:

Thanks!

...However, if you

Yes, I think also to 98% it's a clone movement!

Thanks guys,

I was thinking about the first solution, as I have modded a 7750 bearing on a Hublot and it was not a big deal to put the washer on place. But I thought there is a easier way to do it...thanks again!

Cheers

B

Hi,

I need some help to replace a rotor on a ETA 2892, can someone help me with a howto?

Thanks

Bobby

My mistake, it means 36.000bph!

I thought on @9 it shows the power reserve, I should read the specs 'till the end...

Here a movement shot, looks not really spectacular:

BTW, is the power reserve working or is it faux?

Nice watch, I just ordered one a hour ago. But I didn't notice that the thickness is not the same! After a small research I know now that the calibre 36 is based on the El Primero movement, and it has 30000bph. The subdial measures 1/10 sec, I think that would not be possible on the 7750 based movement of the rep...

Now I regret my order...but it's still a nice watch!

Same game as gen ETA! If you took the stem out in running position the risk is higher to have trouble by pushing the stem back. Better solution is to pull the stem in time set position and then to take it out. Works for me fine, never had problems with it in past...

Without needed "hardware" it is not easy to do. Contact a modder in your country and you can go sure the work will be made correct...