Tom

It seems to have been almost ready for quite some time now. Are we ever going to see it?

Don't worry guys, I had plenty of replys on RWI. Why don't people reply on RWG anymore? It never used to be like this....

In my haste to do my own luming I have now marked the front of two sandwich dials for my 217. I am clearly going to have to swallow my pride and get one from Davidsen, but it begs the question what should I do with the two marked ones. I would like to customise them somehow. Has anyone tried anything interesting that they would like to show?

I need to send my dials for luming and I would like to safely remove the dial from the mechanism. Can anyone guide me through it - is there a screw, leaver of is it simply glued? I have 2 PO's and one PO chrono, though I imagine its the same for all. Thanks Tom

Can anyone help me? I have some Tritec C3 and Dark Orange powder and I want to make some very dark lume for an all black PAM project. Fleed over on RWI showed us all it can be done, and I did ask him to do my work, but unfortunately due to things out of his control he cannot do any work at the moment. He is also very busy. http://replica-watch.info/forum/viewtopic....light=dark+lume Does anyone else now what kind of dye/paint/powder I could add to my Tritec to make up some dark grey lume? I am going to get my PAM case back from good ol' Joe Butts soon so I need to have my sandwich dial and hands done in dark lume to assemble it. I really, really don't want to do it myself (can't do hands and have even ruined two sandwich dials) but can't see another option. Unless someone else knows the powers of the dark (lume) side apart from Fleed........

I work for the company that has the watch concession in Harrods in London and they said that the Phantom and Blue limited editions only come in a 46mm size. There is no 42mm size available. So once again, rather than waiting and getting it right or at the very least doing a little bit of research into what these watches actually look like they go and make fantasy versions. I don't understand the issue with B&R watches - with the solid caseback you would think it would be a doddle to make a rep that would be as near to a 1:1 as any watch, but they come out with a 39mm, a 42mm that doesn't exist as a genuine, the wrong markings... I don't understand as they'll just be left with a whole load of reps that noone wants. Wait 3 months and there will be a blue version of the 46mm BR01-92 out which is almost exactly like the real one. As for the Phantom - I reckon they'll do it this year with zero lume. We'll leave that to Fleed

I've just bought a PAM212 and although I haven't recieved it yet I know the rep strap is going to be lacking. I just wondered what strap other 212 owners have got on theirs? i can't event decide on black or white, leather or synthetic like the genuine.

I believe that C3 (Green) glows brighter than C1 (White) - but don't quote me on it.

Please ignore this - meant to be a PM but accidentally sent to reply. Sorry.

I disassembled my Vintage Sub with the ETA at the weekend to distress it and now cannot get the crown stem to click back into place. I got to the point where I was so cross I tried to force it and thought.....STOP NOW before I do something i'll regret. I am going to take it into a watchsmith, but has anyone had this problem before? It clicked out fine and goes all the way in but will just not lock into place - it just keeps sliding out again. Very frustrating.

Sorry guys - for some reason it won't let me upload a 12kb image. I'll try another way.

I am looking to buy a PAM212 from a dealer I know very well. He wants $120 for this watch so I asked him if I could see the back of it - to see if it was a seagull or an asian 7750. Well, this looks to me like a cheap asian auto movement and not worth $100 Can anyone with more experience tell me what this mechanism is?

Hi, I don't know where you are based, but I am in London and Jess James in Soho who are their main dealer sell the rubber strap for

I am sending off my two PO dials to be re-lumed and have removed the dials from the case. The mechanism is still attached to the dial though. What is the best way to remove it? It is glued on in any way. Both mechanism are ETA if that makes any difference.

Cats, So it was you!! Curse you. Thanks for the tip, I guess I'll have to buy 100 of each. I have also realised that I have lost the tiny tiny screw which holds the Setting Bridge in place. The other pieces I can just about handle losing but I can't use the mechanism without the set bridge screwed in. Note to self. Lock the cat and any children out of the workshop

While stripping down a couple of 6497's (chinese ones) for servicing, our cat jumped up onto the table, missed slightly and pulled the tablecloth off the table I was working on sending the dismantled mechanisms flying. This was a nightmare but after searching for more than 2 hours I have managed to find everything except the following. I am missing the 2 litte movement holders and screws and the brass springs that sit on the hour wheel below the dial. Can someone tell me where I can get replacements? I have tried Ofrei and Cousins but as yet no reply. Help!!

The only thing I ever get worried about is being mugged rather than called out. I take my watch off or cover it up when I get off the Tube late at night.

I think i'm going to spray thin layer or primer over the plate first. Thanks for all your help.

No, it is true. King now claims to have two versions on this watch in the last month or so. An asian ETA copy for $270 and a bonefide ETA for $350. I have yet to find out from him which ETA this is sporting. If it's the 2836-2 then it would account for the extra cost and seem a fair price. I've emailed him to say if he can guarantee it is an ETA and he says yes so what do we think?

B*gger.

I'm luming 3 sandwich dials tonight and on one of them I was a bit over-zealous with the razor blade, removing the old lume. As a result the surface is down to bare metal and quite scratched. I didn't think this would be a problem if I'm luming over the top, but would anyone be able to tell me if it will? I can always apply a very thin layer of primer if going to be an issue. Regards, Tom.

Problem solved with a bit of DIY and some paper clips - they are exactly the same diameter.

All sorted now but thanks for the generous offer.

Lazarini, I am very much obliged and would be happy to pay for them if you wish - I just want my watch in a wearable state.

Wheaton26, I agree it's silly to clog up the forum with repetitive requests but I realised it shouldn't have been in the Omega forum but the Repair forum. I went to delete the first one and you don't seem to be able to delete your own threads. Thats why there are duplicates. If you can tell me how to delete them I would be more than happy to do so.