Mendota Explorer

In 2002 I was looking at buying myself a new Rolex for my 30th birthday. The Explorer 1 was about $2,700 and the 16610 sub was around $3,300.

I talked myself out of the sub because it was "too big" and I didn't buy the Explorer because the night before I was going to go buy it I read a scathing review on Timezone. A respected watch expert reviewed the watch and movement and said at most it was worth $500. I passed and went on with my life.

Turned out that the watch expert had been paid by another company to bash the Rolex and he wrote a false review. He apologized and was banned from Timezone.

All of these years later and I still want both watches, but not at today's inflated prices. Something has to give.

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Beautiful!

Wow.  Interesting to see that difference between the crown guards up close like that. That's actually kind of shocking.  I assume her 1680 case would have the same difference with dimensions then.  How will you get the shape more accurate to the original?  Do the Phong and MQ cases also come with dimensions that off, or is it because Ruby's isn't already reworked the way Phong and MQ do?  My understanding from reading on all of the boards is that these all come from the same original supplier, but MQ and Phong cherry pick the ones they want first and then rework them.  Ruby's aren't reworked and you just get it as it came, which is why there is a price difference.

I looked it up and I believe it is 5.75mm tall and 28.5mm in diameter.  Those are the dimensions for the 1560 but I think the 1570 is the same.  I don't own one yet, so I am just tire kicking.  😁

On 5/29/2019 at 3:53 PM, jmb said:

I will be heading for the hills in about a week but when I get back (maybe in July) I'll crank out some case sets.

Would those Explorer cases accept a Rolex 1570 movement and gen Rolex dial?  Just curious, as I try to figure out if it is possible to do some of the "mostly" all gen parts builds on my wish list.

Mine is the old Puretime 1680 case and it has a funky plastic retainer ring. Actually, way back when MD2020 (remember him?) worked on my watch, he may have opted not to put the plastic retainer back on. I'll have to check.

Does anyone know if these metal tension washers would even work with the Puretime case?

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8 hours ago, Mattjames84 said:

Got the tension washer installed.. now the bezel works perfect.. no play at all and turns great when pushed down.. woohoo

Where did you source a tension washer?  I have a red 1680 that never came with one, and my bezel has the same play as yours did.

2 hours ago, preacher62 said:

 

You can purchase a 3135 for less than $2,800, (if you watch) and you can build a reliable A3135 for less than $1,000 with some gen parts, but it will never be a Rolex 3135. Fewer things in life are finer than a great 1570, 3035 or 3135. They are engineered for a lifetime, with proper care.

There was a guy on Antiques Roadshow this week with a GMT (1675, I think). It was given to him by an uncle who wore it through VietNam (bought in PX for $175). This guy wore it through Afghanistan and 17 years of law enforcement. It was still his daily wearer. It was beat up. I doubt the Asian-made movements will do that.

 

Thanks for the insights.  That all makes perfect sense to me, and is why I am definitely going down that genuine 15xx and 3135 path. It's also why I am going to build a 5510 versus a 6538, so I can avoid the 1030 movement.  I might ruffle some feathers if I end up doing what I am considering, but I am thinking of using either a 1560 or 1570.  I know the vibration rates are different for both of those versus the 1530 that was used in the 5510, but those movements are much more readily available.  I only found one 1530 during my last casual search, while I found several 1560 and 1570 movements, all fully serviced.

I found a serviced 3035 the other day, and since it was $800 cheaper in price, it got me thinking about a ceramic no date build.  Then I saw a few gen no date ceramics for sale on Chrono 24 for $6Kish.  It made me realize that the only way to do a gen parts ceramic build and actually make it cost effective (when compared to the gen watch) would be to go with a 3135 movement and build a 116610.

What would you guys say the total cost would be to get the most reliable option, replace all of the necessary parts with gen parts, and service it?  Let's say a gen 3135 is around $2,800.  I am not saying that's a fair price, just what I have noticed the other day for a freshly serviced 3135 from a dealer.  Would the clone cost maybe $1,000 after all of that work and parts are replaced?  Maybe more or less?  I am just trying to get a handle on what is a better option for a full on franken build when you are using as many gen parts as humanly possible.

Looks like a really nice pointed crown guard case.  Is that literally fresh out of the box or did you have him do anything to it first?  Just curious - did you contact Ruby also, or did you just go straight to MQ?  Just curious to see how hers compares.  Nice looking insert, too.

57 minutes ago, freddy333 said:

 

I do not think either question can be answered objectively, since perspectives and priorities vary. So I will simply offer this anecdote - Two years ago, a friend and I were perusing a local jewelry store. Another customer glimpsed my DRSD franken and called me out on it. To make a long story short, the store's watchmaker "cracked" the watch open for us and, low & behold, there sat a nice, genuine Rolex 1575 beating away inside the case, right next to its HeV.
In my case, since gen Rolex parts will always increase in value, why cash-out if you do not have to? Or, at least, that is my conclusion. Your mileage may vary.

I agree. What a great story about a gorgeous piece.  After very careful consideration, I feel that I personally would benefit from using genuine movements in my treasured, gen parts franken builds.  There are only 2-3 pieces on this list for me, and I would be short changing myself and defeating the purpose if I did not use as many gen parts as physically possible.  The movement is part of that.  For other pieces, which are more for fun, then I am absolutely willing to use ETA movements in those.  They serve a different purpose.

On 3/30/2019 at 12:48 PM, chrstphr said:

Not sure why there would be a suggention to buy the VRF subc, and not the 904L ARF w/yuki or "sh3135v2" from Puretime. Mine is pretty close to perfect. I went ahead and dropped a gen 3135 (w/blue parachrome HS, and free float balance wheel) and Dial.  Local AD did full inspection and never even suggested or hinted of suspicion that there wasor may be a problem? Total investment $2650. Throw in a additional $140 for box and custom papers and you're set. Just maintain your scruples and dont succumb to the urge to see what you can get on eBay - at some point you would get caught, especially if it became a habit after making 5K a pop profit 😉

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Just to confirm - you saved the ARF hands and are using them with your gen dial.  I think I would go gen hands just to keep everything consistent.  Are you using the ARF bracelet, too?

Sounds like Angus from Puretime will sell the ARF case set for less than $200.  You can buy the bracelet separately, too, otherwise I think a gen Rubber B would be pretty cool with this, and just pick up a clasp.  In fact, I have a spare GMTIIc clasp and bracelet still wrapped in plastic, unworn from a TD warranty replacement. I might just use that clasp for it since I like the EZ Link adjustment better than the Glidelock.  That's if I go ahead and take on this project!  😎

Nobody would ever, EVER in a million years notice any difference on the wrist or in the hand.  Even blown up to 500x in macro it's virtually identical!  Nice dial!

 
He's in Los Angeles.  He'll work any way you want.  Send parts, send a whole watch for upgrades or buy a finished watch.  Great communicator returning almost all emails within 10-15 minutes.  Sends progress pics and great for sourcing parts.  He sources the same Vietnam cases MQ does but charges 40% less.  Also, does the best lume application I've ever experienced among modders.

Is Yodog CONUS based? If you send him some or all of the parts will he work with them or does he source everything himself?

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5 hours ago, Replica01 said:

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G960F met Tapatalk
 

Very nice!  What are the specs of this build?

9 hours ago, Nanuq said:

IMHO life is too short for misery.

 

 

 

I'll add to that cheap wine and cheap bourbon! 🤣

OK, so if I am reading correctly, here's the recipe for success:

1) Buy the 904L ARF from Puretime with the V2 SH3135 movement.  Remove the movement and use in another project.

2) Find a gen 3135 - you get the added bonus of the gen datewheel, so 2 mods in one.

3) Gen dial and if you really want to go nuts, gen hands but these are not needed.

4) Gen crown & tube.

5) Prof black hole crystal. Is this the 2xAR version or just the Black Hole crystal?

6) Gen seals.

7) Lastly, send the insert to one of the modders for gen platinum puff coating!😎

Throw it on a gen Rubber B and you have an absolutely killer genken, or send the bracelet to one of the modders in the EU who does gen process bracelet refinishing.

17 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

If I was to do that I'd get a good Phong case and have Dbane work it over. Then a Dark Lord dial and ETA movement, maybe a 2783. Gen hands and gen everything else. That would be a good looking workhorse I could wear every day for the rest of my life.

Thank you so much for your insights!  That really fits in with what I have been thinking over the last year and it seals the deal for me.  This has been such a great thread.  I can't believe the timing of it, too.  I took a year off from the watch world and now that I am back, Automatico brings up the exact issue that has been nagging me!  I love this place!

6 hours ago, Nanuq said:

 

Exactly right.  I used to wear my 6536 every day, it went everywhere and did everything for decades.  Then on its last service with The Zigmeister he sent me traces from his timing machine and some scary photos.  Then he said he was able to clean up the autowind gears and they work fine, but they're nearly used up.  And there are no more available.

 

That settled it, and I put it away.  I still wear it on special occasions, and I miss it.  So now the Big Gonzo wears the mantle.

 

That is indeed scary. I remember the story of how you acquired the 6536, as well, so there is a lot of sentimental value to it and it would be a shame if the movement died. Let's pretend you did not own the 6536 and you were starting from scratch. If you could do it all over again and start building the Big Gonzo today - would you use a genuine movement or would you go ETA?  Again, knowing what you know now and assuming you didn't already own the Little Gonzo.

@Nanuq I have lusted over the Big Gonzo for years here on the forum, and if it were as much a sin to covet thy neighbor's watch as it is to covet thy neighbor's wife, I would already be in hell!  LOL  In fact, I'm afraid there's a seat at the table already warmed up and waiting for me, no pun intended.😈

This really is the million dollar question I am looking at, and Automatico's post sums it up perfectly.  With complete movement prices so high AND replacement parts so rare to find and expensive when you do find them, do I make the decision to embark on a build with an ETA in mind?  One could posit that if you are starting from scratch with an ETA in mind, now you would not be limited to only a 5510.  I could also look at a 6538.  From what Automatico has shared, now the genuine 15xx movements are in that same category as the 1030 movements were 10 years ago.  It's almost foolish/reckless to use them, unless it is going to sit in a safe, because once they break it's game over.  That means you would not be able to wear and enjoy the piece on even a weekly basis, and that is what I am truly after - a masterpiece that I can actually enjoy, not just admire on a watch stand when I take it out.

I could then base my journey around finding the right dial - whether that is a 5510 or a 6538, and then go from there.  Without question, I will be contacting you, Automatico, cc33, Dbane, and others here who are absolute Jedi Masters when it comes to these sophisticated gen projects.

Here is what I am wondering - my dream project is to build a 5510 using as many genuine parts as humanly possible, and with a Ruby or Phong case.  The original reason why I was attracted to the 5510 instead of the 6538 was because I thought it would be easier to source a 15xx movement instead of a 1030 movement.  I also thought the 15xx movement might be more durable, could hold up longer between servicing, and might offer more replacement service parts than the 1030?  Is this flawed logic?

I figured over the course of a few years I could source the movement, case, a beautiful dial on gen plate, gen hands and crown, and a nice insert.  I would wear it on a nice leather band until I could find a gen bracelet for it, or worst case a really nice aftermarket bracelet with gen clasp.

I picture this watch being a lifelong treasured piece that I can pass down to my boys.

With prices skyrocketing, would you advise skipping the 15xx movement and instead putting an ETA in it?  With what I want to build, and my reasons for doing it, I really feel like I have to go genuine 15xx with this piece or I am shortchanging myself.  What are your thoughts?

Do your stock hands match the dial for lume color? That's one thing that would drive me nuts if they were off. I wonder how much a set of gen hands would be?

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