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Mendota Explorer

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Posts posted by Mendota Explorer

  1. Supposedly the 700 was fitted till 71/72 so it's about right for mine

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks for the info. Boy, yours looks nice and original. Really has that vintage look to it. My red 1680 build is supposed to be from circa '69 and I have a ways to go if I want to make it believable. One of the steps is removing my 703 and putting on either a 702 or a 700. I really like the look of the 700!

  2. Getting excited, off to find a tube and a super dome!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Athaya sells a tube for the 700 if you have trouble finding a gen one. Just curious - with a sub from the early 1970s, was there a specific reason why you chose a 700 vs a 702? I'm only curious for my own knowledge for future builds. I like both crowns but never know when each is appropriate.

  3. as is the case with almost all rep vintage subs, even the mbk/mbw has a pretty low crown compared with gen. par for the course unless you spend some big bucks. you will just have to accept it as a budget build and enjoy it as is.

    Yeah, that is too bad. My Puretime 1680 is a great case but I've heard that Angus has been out of stock of those for quite some time, plus I also heard that the bezel assembly has been changed to feature a clip spring design.

    So with that in mind, do we think the Josh case or the Toro case is a better overall budget starting point?

  4. Cool project, but it will be expensive.  Gen 5513's with matte dials, late 60's and even into the early 80's Maxi dials have gone up a lot in cost over the last couple of years.  A decent example is more like 7K now.  Good original examples are in the 10K range.  I check multiple sources everyday as I am after a birth year piece.  Good collector type pieces are bringing crazy money.  Gilt even more.  Once in a while I see one with no bracelet and an over-polished case with a service plexi and insert in the 5K range but they usually have other issues like service hands....I did manage to pick up a really nice 1970 1675 yesterday and that took a long time to find the one I wanted.    

    I did a Yuki build and it turned out really nice,  Be happy to share some information with you.  The case needed some serious modding though.  Little too thick from Yuki, but with some good mods it can look very gen like.  I used the Yuki dial and hands and an ETA to reduce costs.  I was trying to make a 1966 model.   The most expensive parts other than the case were the gen 700 crown and tube and the gen MKIII insert.  Those inserts are going for $800 and up now if they are in good shape.  I had a gen 1966 7206 already from my big crown build but that would be another $1200-1500 for one in decent shape.  CWP or ABC watchwerks plexi is a good dome plexi and reasonably priced.  Sometimes you see "gen" t-19's for sale, but everyone I trust says they are not NOS gen so I have passed on those.  I do not think dbane is taking on any work or I would suggest him for the case mods and build.  Not sure who else may be able to help with the case.  Miseikped does some really good work. Matt is great for assembly but you would need to find someone else to do the case.   

    Good luck.  If you want some pictures of anything specific on the Yuki PM me.      

    No way! You finally found the elusive GMT? I can't wait to see pics of this.

    I've been admiring pics you have been posting lately of a 5513. Is this the Yuki build you are referring to? It really looks fantastic. That's a Yuki dial in there?

    How absolutely necessary is it to work on the Yuki case? Can someone get by without any reshaping?

  5. I'd probably do the 702. Most red subs date from '69- '74. 

    Great.  Thanks for the recommendation!  That's what I have been thinking in my gut, so it is nice to get confirmation from a pro.  I bought my vintage 703 long before Athaya even prototyped the 702, otherwise I would have just bought that one for sure.  I'll take it off this winter and replace it with the 702 at the same time that I take it apart to work on the dial and replace the plexi.  Seems like a perfect time for that.

  6. Project story...

    I put a low buck project watch together now and then and always end up using parts from three or four watches. Since I still have a few vintage style Eta 28xx watches from Abay I usually go with an Abay mid case and dial but change things around to make it more realistic. The dial windows are all 26.0mm so the only 'affordable' dial option besides the original is a Yuki etc 26.5mm 1680 dial. All the Abay dials...5513, 5514, 1680 etc are about 26.5mm so they will all work in any of the Abay cases. The main trouble with the dials is the printing is sometimes a bit dim and the markers at 3-6-9 are too narrow in the beam. One bonus is the Abay 5514 and SD have working oem spec helium valves.

    All my Abay cases have two major flaws...the rotating bezels are non oem spec (they have no inner bezel and are simply stuck down over the crystal) and the case back gasket is cut in the case instead of the case back. They do have a good profile however and a completed project has a good look to it, they even have the 'tear drop' lower edge of the crown guard like genuine cases and absent in many replicas. The gasket in the case does not matter much and it allows a thinner case back while accepting low $$ cartel type case backs from Raffles Time etc. I have a few DW 'spring wire' bezel sets and since the Abay cases will accept oem crystals, I use the DW bezels with generic oem spec crystals to save $$. The cases have long, thick crown guards and there is more than enough metal to grind them to shape and the holes in the lugs are located so they can be bored out to 1.3mm without being too high or too low.

    What all the BS above boils down to is by using a combination of parts, just about anyone can put together a pretty good watch for not much $$, but you can not be in a hurry. It will usually be quite a bit cheaper than a Yuki or MBK case project watch. MBK watches and cases used to be an option for low buck projects but not today. Besides saving $$, after completing a few 'budget' projects you will know more about the cost and headaches of watch projects and maybe not be as far upside down.

    Expect a PM from me when I get ready to start my build!  Thanks for the great info here.  That helps put things into perspective.  Do you have these cases and dials, bezel assemblies readily available, or are they only for your personal projects/tinkering?

    I recently purchased all of my tools and I am really chomping at the bit to start tinkering and working on budget projects this winter.  That's why I'm really interested in this 5512 and the 1680 that were posted in this thread, but your suggestions above sound very promising.  Quite a few members on the various boards have been gracious enough to share tips and tricks with me and I'm looking forward to just rolling my sleeves up and trying my hand at it.  I know I am going to mess up a few dials along the way, but that is all part of learning the skills needed for this hobby!  

  7. it looks like a STAILESS steel case from toro. Be interesting to see if it was a 16** case engraving... maybe it's not new at all they are just using a similar case from a different project seadweller maybe as it's all so fat!

    i got mine from josh about 3 months ago. 

    i might try redrilling and taking some meat off the top of the case, one day..

     

    Interesting. So what would you recommend as the base for a budget 5512 or 5513 build?

  8. I think I have the 'new' version mine has STAILESS STEEL engravings, it has the fat caseback and the thick bezel.

    The case isn't as good as the old one plus the tube hole is drilled even lower than before which is terrible, you can always swap the bezel and caseback but the crown position will always be naff.

    I really like the pics from the toro 1680 posted above. The crown position is dead center. Only thing is I'd have to get a new dial for a 5512 build. What do you think of it?

    Did you also purchase the same Josh Cartel 5512?

  9. I'm with highoey on this- get the 702 crown and tube. It's more appropriate for the white 1680 sub which dates from the 70s when the 702 crown and tube was used. The 700 crown and tube dates from the 60s- good for an early 5513-5512.

    @Alligoat, with a red 1680 build from the late 1960s, would you use a 702 or a 700? Right now I have a gen 703 on there.

  10. As an owner of the Puretime red 1680 you referenced, here are some thoughts on it. I bought mine in 2011 when it was readily available.

    If you can find a used one on M2M sales you will be much happier. First off, it has been out of stock for most of this year. You will need to ask Angus if he knows when he will get stock again.

    They changed the design of the bezel assembly. Big bummer there. It now has a clip spring-type mechanism.

    The old design, which mine has, features a goofy plastic gasket, which you can throw away, the retainer ring, and then the bezel ring. Many people choose to have JMB custom make a new retainer ring.

    Rolex Addict over on RWI said this is one of the best cases he has ever worked on. The crown guards need only minimal shaping. Literally only a hair off the tips of the ends. If you look at pics of gens from the underside, and then compare those to this, they are almost spot on.

    The case accepts a gen size dial and a gen spec crystal. The stock tube will accept a gen crown, so you can put on a gen 703 or 702, or get Athaya's 702. I bought a used vintage 703 before Athaya offered his 702, otherwise I would have bought Athaya's for sure.

    The insert is a great example of a service replacement thin font insert and has a nice vintage pearl. No need to do anything to it other than age it if you want. Of course, you could always get a gen fat font insert and have more of that original, non-service look.

    The lugholes take gen 2mm springbars but the holes in the endlinks fit really snugly. There is no wiggle room, and in my case that meant the tips of the bars would not line up in the holes. I had to buy WSO 580 endlinks in order to use the gen spec bars. Boy are those a pain, too.

    The lug engravings are correct and read 1680 but the serial is from the late 1980s, long after the 1680 was discontinued.

    If you replace the crystal, you might have luck reusing the plastic gasket that comes with the watch, but often it gets mangled and you have to toss it. Rolex Addict says you don't need it, anyway. The date window is in the ETA position, so a gen-spec plexi with cyclops is going to be slightly out of position. People have said it isn't that big of a deal, or you can use a T19. Personally, I think the T19 looks fan-freaking-tastic.

    My bezel assembly is missing the tension washer, so the bezel ring is a little too loose and spins. I'm going to try to find one. I also need to age my dial, swap my crystal, and then I'm done.

    Regarding the dial, the print is excellent and it is a great dial, but the lume markers are flat and shiny. To make it look right you really need to do something with them.

    Here are a few pics of mine:

    20150422_141354.jpg

    20140620_124126.jpg

    20150422_141647.jpg

    20150505_123523.jpg

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