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sor@mail.technion.ac.il

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Posts posted by sor@mail.technion.ac.il

  1. You're going at it w/ too much intensity! Spend time studying the piece you are emulating, get to recognize the effect you're after. Rarely does a dial look as "baked" as yours does.The insert looks like you've gone at it w/ abrasives. An aged faded insert is "gentle", not like its been draged behind your motorcycle! There are many "tutorials" on aging, read many & practice,practice, practice.......You'll get it w/ time. ( sorry if I've been too harsh on your efforts,) This forum has many very talented "Agers" If that's a word who will chime in I'm sure. Regards, mcotter

    thanks for the input :)

     

    this was just the first go at it.

    as you said I have alot of fine (and not so fine) tuning ahead.

     

    no movements where hurt in the making.

  2. Hi there,
    This is my first thread and first time aging somthing, so I would appreciate any tip I can get.
    the photos where taken with a camera phone, so I apologize in advance.. I was simply too nervous to handle anything else icon_e_smile.gif

    ingredients:
    * Tiger concept sterile watch from ebay.
    * raffles time 6200 dial (doesn't fit the case- needs shaving down)
    * cup of joe (extra strong)
    * oven preheated to 150C -> then seeing that its not enough for me 200C (on the second try)

    tools:
    * basic watch maker kit.
    * rodico on a toothpick (do deal with the tiny hands)
    * Q tips- to "paint" the hands


    after tearing down the case I dealt with the individual parts:
    rehout- pretty straight forward, preheating with a hair drier really makes things easy. work the insert with sandpaper then pop in bleach for 2 min. wash with fresh water dry and presto.
    case- just went mid-evil on the sucker.
    p7h2.jpg

    dial- now here is where it became interesting. I really had no Idea what to expect.. so I experimented on 3 dials at the same time.
    *note that the explorer 111490 is my experimental lumming dial- so different thickness of lume were effected slightly different. 
    (I seem to have misplaced the image of the TC dial before)
    20130612122137.jpg
    66ug.jpg
    7fmj.jpg

    20 min of heating on 150C (+ turbo function on oven) got the tiger case to this:
    xvsz.jpg

    granted its not much.. so I decided to try coffee and the heating on 200C (+ turbo function on oven).
    I just popped the dials for a quick swim in steaming coffee then placed them on some tin foil (for ease removal)

    *** this is when thing became intense.. so keep an eye on the dial while its in the oven***
    after 2 min in the oven I got this:
    80vj.jpg
    07ru.jpg

    and compare to the non coffee:
    x8z3.jpg

    hands- now these were not effected at all by time in the oven alone. so I just placed them on the tin foil and gently painted them with coffe with a Q tip.
    then popped in the oven on 200C (+ turbo function on oven) for about 5 min- I am pretty shure the can handle longer.

    4mae.jpg
    2x82.jpg

    in the case:
    gzg6.jpg
    tdav.jpg

    So what have I learned?
    * very gentle dial aging- preheat oven to 150C for about 20min 
    * hard core overkill dial aging- coffee dip + turbo 200C for about 2 min (i'll probably settle for 1 min next time or 150C for longer)
    * I am undecided about the hands.
    * the hardest part is to get yourself going.. once you start you see there is nothing to fear really.

  3. update.

    I have received a raffles dial and aged the dial and hands-

    * dial- dipped in coffe and oven baked for 2 min in 200C turbo mode

    * hands- sanded to get the guilt look (think it worked) and then coffe and 5 min in the oven (not really sure about the effect)

    I apologize for the crappy pics- I was really nervus  

    7fmj.jpg

    80vj.jpg

    f3nn.jpg
     



    ixdg.jpg

    l7i0.jpg
     

     

  4. tiger concept update.

    I just received the case- the build seems pretty solid, the bezel is bi directional non click and a little looser then what I would like (compared to the DSN vintage builds).

     

    crown is bare, and pretty hard to unscrew.

     

    bracelet is surprisingly good, no makings of course and there is the odd rivet slightly sticking out.. but is smooth, nicely finished and all the screws work really well. by cartel standards this is one very effective bracelet.

     

    the plexi seems passable. not the huge silix dome i saw in some of the pictures, and not too shallow. I don't think I will mess with it for a while.

     

    I ordered the matt dial and gold hands-

    good- great big ball seconds, nice length of hands (correct me if I am wrong)

    bad- the hands are too shiny, (will get right on cc33 sanding method- thanks) and the loom dots don't fill up the borders.

     

    the dial opening in the case is slightly more the 28 mm- I am waiting on a dial from raffles and then I'll sand it down.

     

    I must add that the seller was very communicative and proffesional, and shipping was fast!

     

    PS does any one have a cheap and descent source for a brevet bracelet clasp?

     

    here are some pics-

     

    post-40287-0-36840100-1371030345_thumb.j

    post-40287-0-86667000-1371030360_thumb.j

    post-40287-0-85492200-1371030378_thumb.j

    post-40287-0-07115100-1371030396_thumb.j

  5. thanks for the input.

     

    I have talked to both ken and helena which are extremely patient and prompt.

     

    ken:

    - dial is 29mm

    - fits his case guaranteed.

     

    ---> if we consider jerkstor measurements.. it probably means that JoeyB is right and he has the tiger V1 equivalent.

     

    Helana:

    - the dial is 29mm

    - but will be willing to shave it gently to 28mm (taking care of the enamel surface)

    - probably will cost about 170 including shipment.

     

    given there is a tiger case on the way what would you guys do?  :g:

  6. I am kind of debating it in my head right now.

    1. I have never serviced a movement.

    2. I can't find detailed specs or manuals for this one- omega 610.

    3.I really want to deal with the watch on my own.

    this wasn't such a problem when I took apart the seiko

    7S26, or ETA's which are well documented. for general knowledge I do have the "Handbook of watch and clock repairs.. but usually I manage to understand what I did wrong just after the fact

    :fool:

    any suggestions?

  7. thanks.

    It really is a split pin.

    I managed prying it out. and then removing the movement with a little bending of the holder..

    and was pleasantly surprised to find what looks like an authentic movement.

    attached are some low res pics from my phone. I apologize for the low quality.

    img04451a.th.jpg

    img04441.th.jpg

    i did some delicate cleaning around and removed all the pieces of gunk i found (basically some dust with old oil and) and the movement came back to life.

    through the loupe I cannot see any other problems and I am not familiar with the movement so I will let it run out and do a full wind.

    I hope I can settle for this until I read more on this specific movement.

    Thanks for the help.

    Sor

  8. HI all.

    I just optimistically picked up what seems like a vintage omega.

    img04411q.th.jpg

    img04422.th.jpg

    currently it doesn't run and I wish to open it up and try to get it straight.

    I have tinkered with the newer ETA's for things like resetting the keyless.

    But with this watch I can even get to the movement! (after i remove the case with a case knife..)

    does any one here have experience with these kind of watches?

    thanks

    Sor

  9. First off I'm not a big Rolex fan.

    The only exception for me is the No date sub.

    I personally find the understated face and overall size and build charming and have been waiting a long time for a descent rep.

    I came across this Trever's no date sub: http://v.yupoo.com/photos/trevorwatch/albums/4137407/

    I'd love to draw on your experience and knowledge as to the following aspects:

    1. are the dimensions close? will it feel right on the wrist?

    2. should the Swiss eta 2836-2 give the same seconds swiping movement?

    any further input is welcome, though I am less interested in the minute details as I am in the overall feel and theme. :)

    Thanks

  10. Hello,

    this is my first actual post, although ever since I found this forum I've been spending well over an hour daily, reading through and learning from this community.

    I would really like to start taking apart movements, being that I am new to the game I've been wondering maybe one of you more experienced members have a spare movement that I might experiment on.

    I think a used ETA would be the best because I have managed to gather alot of information and tutorials about them. it doesn't need to be in working order although the less parts missing the better :)

    Thanks in advance

    Sor

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