APguy1

Yaaay solidworks love That program

I agree ! It is much easier to use than Catia v5 !! I have to use that at work and it's a pain in the ass !

If you could do a gen spec 1675 case I would be very interested.

Sent from my droptop using telepathy.

That would involve a HUGE amount of development ! And only to be done an a 4 Axis machine

This is the page on CAM for the tools and offsets.

I was thinking of making my own pocket watch case or something and get a Mini lathe too. Convert that to CNC and I'm off  

One concern is when you use a CNC machine in industry the tools are pre set in the tool holder so the tool is extended a certain amount so the machine know how far to move before the tool is in contact with the material. 

When changing the tool in the machine I'm getting, it uses a collet chuck which every time you change a tool it will stick out at different lengths every time. Unless there is a stop that the tool hits against ?  

In the program it tells you the length of the end of the tool from the Arbor for each tool number. 

Will the machine run any kind of CAM ? Or does it have to be specific ?

I know mate the Cad Cam I own cost nearly £1k !!

I've decided to take the plunge and get the machine. I'll update the thread when it arrives. I've ordered a large vice and some milling bits with a collet chuck and rotary table can't wait to get it

This is an AP I've been working on and may make if i get the machine. I would have to add a 4th axis however, when theres a will theres a way

Cheers pall

Here are some pics of the machine and the CAD CAM software I own:

Hi fellas,

I've come to the conclusion that I want to start making some parts on a milling machine but I do not own one at the moment hence this thread. I've got over 500 hours using a milling machine and have covered all forms of milling such as the following:

Climb Milling

Conventional Milling

Rotary Table

Deviding Head ( Indexed )

Face Milling

End Milling

Universal Vice milling

Horizontal milling (-45-+45 Deg)

I plan on using it to make model boat parts but I would like to offer a service to you the members. I know that people have always struggled with the AP internal Bezel Screws and I could easily make and sell a few of those if it was an interest to you'll.

Also I could machine case parts down to size for say an AP. shave the Case back etc..

So the purpose of this thread is if anyone has any ideas on what I could make for them put it in a post below.

I plan on getting a Mini Milling machine and converting it to a 3 Axis CNC ( Computer Numerical Control ) milling machine. Simple conversion but it depends on weather it is worth doing if I will be manufacturing the same part over and over again. I do have a CAM program ( Computer Aided Manufacture ) I use at work so I would not have to manually enter the G codes

I've got a full Solidworks 2014 professional CAD System ( Computer Aided Design ) also if any one would like something prototyping and machining at a later stage.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Ah yes i don't have any of those. I only have some omega 42mm SB and TC Sub spring bars 

OBS! sorry to hear about your problems Olly116610!

Some times it is the best to do everything yourself.... Then  you know the quality!

 

ME

This is true  

What are they for mate I may have some that you want ? What version watch

Ebay sell all variations mate Look for the most expensive of the bunch. 

The bergeon spring bar remover is the best on the market IMO. Not even expensive  

Yer I hope so

Cheap crystal in a old watch. Only fix is a hammer if I'm honest. Try contacting the dealers and ask for a new Noob DSSD crystal. They are very very good  

Oh I see, not to worry mate, it's easy to replace.

It is very easy to remove. It is was too difficult to remove you could drill it out.

Have you fitted the tube yet ?

No, it snaps off when took off with pliars

I use a marine epoxy JB Weld 2 part. The tube should have a little lip on the middle of the part where the threaded part would screw into the case. That lip should sit flat on the case. That way the crown will screw down tight to the case and will capture the 2 gaskets inside the crown .

I agree, it does mark quite easily however. Not sure if the gen has this property.

Nice one I've got the 2500 end links with the 8500 bracelet. Nice watch bud

Oh I forgot to add the sunny Dale crystal.

Hi there,

I have been an unfortunate one that has encounter a problem that has cost me a large sum of money because the person who built my planet ocean did not install the stem/crown/tube correctly.

Let me explain.

My Franken Planet Ocean is a 90% genuine watch with the following upgrades:

Gen bezel assembly

Gen dial

Gen hands

Gen eta 2824-2 movement

Gen end links

Gen bracelet sections

Gen clasp

Gen crown and tube

Gen DWO

So as you can see I have spent an awful lot on this watch !! Roughly £850

The issue that led to a vast sum of money is this:

The so called watchmaker that assembled the watch installed the tube too deep into the case which meant that the crown only screwed down 2 turns.

That was very difficult to screw down the crown.

This was was pressure tested to 50ATM

The stem was installed too long which put too much pressure on the crown when it was being screwed down. This also forced the stem into the movement.

You can probably see where I'm going with this now;

Last week I wen to set the time on my watch and the crown and tube stripped it's self and the stem snapped inside this Swiss ETA movement!!!!!!!!

My heart sank,

I did not have this watch made for me the person I purchased the watch have it to his "watchmaker" to build. This watchmaker is not on the rep boards so this is a safe thing.

I however am a training watchmaker and I know how to work on watches like these so I did not have to send it away to be fixed which saved a lot of money.

I had to replace the following:

Stem

Crown

Tube

Swiss movement

All in total it cost me £220. All because the crown and tube was installed incorrectly.

Please be warned people, if your watch has the following symptoms get it checked out.

Some May question why I didn't just repair the movement that was already in it, I dissembles the movement to find parts in the keyless bent and buckled. It would have a knock on affect on the whole movement hence it was replaced.

Here are some pictures for you to see:

Thanks,

Olly