rolojack

I wanted to make a post with decent pictures of this watch for quite some time... I did one a few month back, but pics did not do it justice: so there you go my fellow Rolex addicts ! My transitional 6610 SCOC albino dial Explorer for your eyes and comments ! This watch has so much appeal... I love wearing it.

Specs are what you'd guess it to be:

JMB mid case with half the metal gone...

90's HK rep DJ backcase transformed to Bubbleback. The only rep with 50's looking long teeth.

Cartel 6238 bezel trimmed shorter

Verlux T21

TC hands

RT brevet crown

delaforce dial

Old stock slow beat a2824 converted to non hacking

Yuki bracelet

Beautiful built ! I am impressed ! Congratulations, really. How are the engravings and the midcase rear? Just curious.... Also, did you go all the way and managed to get the proper bridges for the movement?

not higher. It is exactly the same height : the transfomed dial replaces the spacing ring ! That is the idea !

I got them on Ebay as he has a sale. I bought a few at 7 USD each. I first mill a larger hole in the center then mount the dial on a holder on a vertical drill to make it of the right diameter. Then, I glue the dial between 2 thick plastic sheets to hold and hollow it on the same vertical drill. Then dip into a chemical to clean the glue and finally buff with 3M pad for a nice clean matte finish !

8 hours ago, DVNE said:

How can one hollow out a dial? Are you offering this as a piece to sell? I'd definitely be interested in the future

I could offer that service as part of a modding package deal...

A clean mount is an achievement I am always after. A few excellent dials have been made with ETA feet plates, but too little and too scarce... Clipping feet on a rolex specs dial is a heart breaker, and glue or adhesive pads is not giving a good feeling at all. Mostly when you know you will take the watch appart a dozen time ! That's me... But I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Anyways, I figured I should make a all in one dial spacer/new feet to epoxy fix on a dial plate for a perfect and super clean mount. I used RT dials I hollowed to create the part I was after. Pics are blurry but it gives an idea. See below.

First you see a RT dial untouched besides one I tranformed. I kept both DG and ETA feet at first. If you break one of 4 in the process, it can always be used for the other type.... 

Then on a DG you see how the new spacer with feet must fit outside the date wheel when placed on the movement.

To finish, when the ring is permanently fixed to the plate, I spray some black paint for a nice look and I varnish the overall so it does not oxydate.

On the DG, the dial thickness is about 1/2 of the original spacing ring. So you need to slim the spacing ring by half to reach the original space.

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After is an ETA built without date. It is easier to make as the spacing ring can be up to the inner diameter of the date wheel. Only the center part needs some space to work correctly and no extra ring is necessary.

Yes, ideal parts list is Gen clasp+Mary links+WSO endlinks. On the endlinks I mod them for a flawless fit. They are too long and the 580 is ugly and is better sanded off. Also, sanding the 580 brings you to a similar thickness with the Gen as the reps are made of a much thicker metal sheet.

You apply different colors of ink (use water based felt markers) then spray poly vinyl (found in artist stabilizing lacquer or more simply hair spray), let dry and after wet with distilled water to melt and blend the combo. Color will lighten and the left over coat will be so thin it can't be seen - unlike a varnish that "sunkens" the print.

Yes.... Change or no change.... It isn't mine by the way: it belongs to a fellow member who trusted me to assemble it. It is very yellow BUT font is good. I already toned down the lume of the dial, but DW lume is very sealed and tint won't penetrate much. 

This is actually a song to DW since these are his cases.... When will someone finally come up with such products at such prices????

Now question for the gang: should the dial be matched to the faded datwheel, or should the datewheel be changed?

stem height of 21j cases is for 2836.

a Cartel case is about 100 euros. For the mod service PM me for prices

for a 6610 the rear is totally different as it is a bubbleback.... better go with a V1 JMB.

For a 1016, there are different generations.... with different shapes. Search on the forum, you will see.

It is a 16000

Here is a modified DJ case to 1016 specs. One more !

Here is a TOTALLY modified DW case. All faces reworked ! Top of the lugs, sides... It now has the correct early "tonneau" shape we all love to see.

Note the extra clear and correct shaped Verlux crystal. The only aftermarket crystal that is a match to the original T21

nope, it is machine turned. Only way to have an even and correct curve

There is not extra metal here. No welding.... Actually, it looks just fine! These new cartel cases have more "meat" than the previous versions making a PCG build more affordable for us all.

I think the 1655 cases the cartel made are still the best option on a budget ! The CG side needs a bit of work but it is worth the trouble.

For your eyes is a PCG case carved from an unidentified case.... Bracelet is Yuki, crown is Athaya, dial I am not sure.... 

16 hours ago, Bart Cordell said:

Beautiful Watch !

Did you need to sand retaining ring to fit sternkreuz T19 ?

yes, more than sanding: There is a significant inner diameter difference.

Hey gang, I was wondering if someone took apart that faux chrono JF? Those subdial hands are frozen or silly working with some sort of day date function needing reset everyday to see the hands at zero? Also, the frozen second hand is fixed how? Thanks!!!

the case polish is terribly bad! God, all edges are gone. It looks like an old hand soap.....

PCG case is slimmer than a RCG... You need to lathe the top and bottom. Better do that on a cheap cartel and keep your 5512 for a different project.

Great work really !!!!! I am really impressed !!!!!