Ado213

And I helped him out with his watch WTF !!!!

keyless works

so you have the balance cap and shock spring attached, but no balance wheel jewel?. This will be difficult to find as it has to fit both in diameter and depth

that is the cap jewel with attched shock spring is the watch a Seiko

It goes without saying that perhaps the OP has been over enthusiastic when replacing the shock spring in the balance [censored] ( I wish this word would not be censored out all the time its a legitimate description !) If this is the case and bearing in mind there will be less than O.1 mm end shake then it more than likely will be this, To test this none destructively., it is possible to raise three or four "lands" with a screwdriver or broach on the mainplate where the [censored] fits to it, That is to raise the mainplate brass by divots to the required height, you wont need much land to test this but it will prove a point. its best practice to raise the land at the front edge of the balancecock, nearest the balance wheel

Hmm , very strange, check these issues 1) pallet fork is not touching the underside of the roller table when balance is screwed down 2) Check the balance staff is true and not bent at the pinions, if your removing the balance from the [censored] to check this, remove the hairspring and collet also and check the balance in the movement without pallet fork for rotational freedom 3) Balance jewels are the correct ones, I am presuming no changes have been made 4) Has the balance [censored] been cleaned, could it have been bent slightly on cleaning, there is a way of overcoming this 5) Curb pins are not frictionally holding the hairspring 6) Hairspring is flat to the balance wheel and definitely not touching either the balance wheel or the underside of the [censored] 7) Check for rundown. let the movement down, remove balance, remove pallet fork and bridge, wind the movement only three or four turns. Watch carefully the escape wheel. As the watch runs down it should at the end of the power run slightly in reverse, so the escape wheel changes rotational direction. If the escape wheel stops dead and does not "reverse" there may be other issues. This is a common service test and should always be carried out. It gives you a very good insight into amplitude and power reserve. Oops, forgot to add, I think you issue is the balance [censored] being bent downwards

Hi Yes you have a balance wheel jewel and cap jewel missing from the mainplate side of the watch. The balance wheel jewel is a press fit into a brass "chaton" and the cap jewel sits on top of the chaton you should also have a shock spring which holds the balance jewel, Chaton and cap jewel in the Block

in short no !

All the best Micky, If you need anything at all just Hola !!

As the oils become viscous the amps drop, period. The importance of amplitude is critical to any watch movement. The 3135 has a free sprung balance with a complex over coil hairspring. if you not conversant with this, leave well alone. S/d rate can be corrrcted via the microstella screws on the balance wheel of which there are four, two spairs of two. Two thick, two thin, each pair gives different a/d adjustment. If you mess the balance up you will be looking at a far greater cost than a service

Well you’ve done your best, pass this on now. Mike if your US based

Poor amp and beat error, bring the beat error down see if the Amp goes up which they should. If you don't get at least 275 deg amp it is definitely time for a service NOW.

I'm intrigued, fire it over to me and I'll do a freebie for you

Hi, I can help you wit this one, shoot me a PM if you want to proceed

I think your watch is either magnetised or the hairspring is clashing/sticking. Your beat error should be static, I'm pretty sure the new balance will sort the beat error out.

Yes it is, but it is only a fraction, you may get 0.2 mm . those 7750 dials are stubborn to move. You will definitely need a very good movement holder to do it and a steady nerve. I don't know your circumstances, if your not used to working with watches send it out to one of our smiths here. They have the kit

If it's running at 220 your way to low on amps, you need to be 275-315 for decent time keeping and a healthy movement. What is your beat error dial up showing? If you've ordered a balance complete (part 721) the you will have to attach this to the [censored], that is unless you have bought a complete balance and [censored], if so then it will be chinese and to be fair won't be the best it can be. you should be looking to replace the mainspring to get your amps up, this is almost always done on servicing. Also check the internal walls of the barrel for wear. Saying that, you should first check the movement, clean it, especially the Jewel holes and don't wear a jumper when you do it, you'll fill it full of fibres you've been working hard to clean out !! Lube as eta, don't oil the pallet pinion jewels and at this point don't oil the pallets themselves Incorrect lube on on the pallets could have caused it, but in your case I suspect the pallet pinions or indeed the pallet settings themselves were at fault. Before you you attempt to time this piece in check dial up and dial down readings, if they're not within a max of around 6 secs you won't be able to time it in accurately Everything in the watch has to be correct to get both good amplitude and isochronism Its a a bit like baking a cake, every ingredient has to be in there to get tasty cake Hope this helps

The only issue with using a dial spacer or for that matter a TC movement holder on a 2824-2 is that either increase the distance from the front of the dial to the stem, which in effect puts you back to 2836 stem heights. TC uses #4 pinions on his 2824's to counteract this distance increase and keep the hand stack correctly spaced. He also uses a fairly thic double sided tape to apply his DWO, this allows a degree of clearance between the reverse side of the DWO and date change mechanism. This clearance is quite important, as you would struggle with a clean date change without it. A 2824-2 does not officially use a dial spacer and are supplied from ETA without. A standard ETA 2824-2 also comes with #2 pinion set up which would be too small in length to mount the hands if you use a dial spacer. Another way of counteracting the smaller length #2 pinion problem is to use extended tubed hands, basically a standard looking hand with longer tubes on them. hope this helps

A fairly common problem with clone movements, and as this has only just occurred it sounds like wear. Obviously the problem lies with "end float" in either the staff or pallet fork. Knowing which position, ie dial up or down this occurs may point you in the right direction to find the culprit Firstly I would check for wear on the fork pinions, as these are not normally lubricated, they are one of the first things to wear and on Asian movements the pinion material is very soft. Check by delicately lifting the fork at the horn end to see how much play you have. If the fork pinions are worn a new pallet fork would sort this out. Don't forget that the wear on the fork pinion could be either vertical or lateral, so it could be that the pinion in the jewel fit is good but the friction shoulder(s) on the pinion could be worn There has been a few rare occasions where the fork pinion jewel in the mainplate has moved in its mount, so take a look at that also. An indicator of this is the position of the pallet jewels, they should strike the escape wheel on their centre line. I have to admit on Asians this is rarely the case

I'm not trying to belittle your work and it's commendable that at you have adapted and overcome, to get your end result. There is however a more precise way of doing this that will give you a consistently better result, without a great deal more investment than you have already made. It will also help you with case tube installation. That said, Kudos to your efforts.

Whilst a decent drill press is an excellent start, knowing how to drill and what to use makes the difference between success and failure. Micky's machine will consistently succeed, a dremel won't

Hi Dieselpower, glad we have the same point of view on this!. I've followed this thread on all forums from the start, I have to say the tone of a few have now gone far beyond even my patience at this particular time. So to the band of brothers who insist on making this mans life a misery, perhaps you should seek a hobby more constructive than physcological warfare, synchronised dynamite juggling comes to mind !!

Thank God PB has a temp ban on his insidious remarks at this time. What a septic bitter person!