Ado213

All the best Micky, If you need anything at all just Hola !!

As the oils become viscous the amps drop, period. The importance of amplitude is critical to any watch movement. The 3135 has a free sprung balance with a complex over coil hairspring. if you not conversant with this, leave well alone. S/d rate can be corrrcted via the microstella screws on the balance wheel of which there are four, two spairs of two. Two thick, two thin, each pair gives different a/d adjustment. If you mess the balance up you will be looking at a far greater cost than a service

Well you’ve done your best, pass this on now. Mike if your US based

Poor amp and beat error, bring the beat error down see if the Amp goes up which they should. If you don't get at least 275 deg amp it is definitely time for a service NOW.

I'm intrigued, fire it over to me and I'll do a freebie for you

Hi, I can help you wit this one, shoot me a PM if you want to proceed

I think your watch is either magnetised or the hairspring is clashing/sticking. Your beat error should be static, I'm pretty sure the new balance will sort the beat error out.

Yes it is, but it is only a fraction, you may get 0.2 mm . those 7750 dials are stubborn to move. You will definitely need a very good movement holder to do it and a steady nerve. I don't know your circumstances, if your not used to working with watches send it out to one of our smiths here. They have the kit

If it's running at 220 your way to low on amps, you need to be 275-315 for decent time keeping and a healthy movement. What is your beat error dial up showing? If you've ordered a balance complete (part 721) the you will have to attach this to the [censored], that is unless you have bought a complete balance and [censored], if so then it will be chinese and to be fair won't be the best it can be. you should be looking to replace the mainspring to get your amps up, this is almost always done on servicing. Also check the internal walls of the barrel for wear. Saying that, you should first check the movement, clean it, especially the Jewel holes and don't wear a jumper when you do it, you'll fill it full of fibres you've been working hard to clean out !! Lube as eta, don't oil the pallet pinion jewels and at this point don't oil the pallets themselves Incorrect lube on on the pallets could have caused it, but in your case I suspect the pallet pinions or indeed the pallet settings themselves were at fault. Before you you attempt to time this piece in check dial up and dial down readings, if they're not within a max of around 6 secs you won't be able to time it in accurately Everything in the watch has to be correct to get both good amplitude and isochronism Its a a bit like baking a cake, every ingredient has to be in there to get tasty cake Hope this helps

The only issue with using a dial spacer or for that matter a TC movement holder on a 2824-2 is that either increase the distance from the front of the dial to the stem, which in effect puts you back to 2836 stem heights. TC uses #4 pinions on his 2824's to counteract this distance increase and keep the hand stack correctly spaced. He also uses a fairly thic double sided tape to apply his DWO, this allows a degree of clearance between the reverse side of the DWO and date change mechanism. This clearance is quite important, as you would struggle with a clean date change without it. A 2824-2 does not officially use a dial spacer and are supplied from ETA without. A standard ETA 2824-2 also comes with #2 pinion set up which would be too small in length to mount the hands if you use a dial spacer. Another way of counteracting the smaller length #2 pinion problem is to use extended tubed hands, basically a standard looking hand with longer tubes on them. hope this helps

A fairly common problem with clone movements, and as this has only just occurred it sounds like wear. Obviously the problem lies with "end float" in either the staff or pallet fork. Knowing which position, ie dial up or down this occurs may point you in the right direction to find the culprit Firstly I would check for wear on the fork pinions, as these are not normally lubricated, they are one of the first things to wear and on Asian movements the pinion material is very soft. Check by delicately lifting the fork at the horn end to see how much play you have. If the fork pinions are worn a new pallet fork would sort this out. Don't forget that the wear on the fork pinion could be either vertical or lateral, so it could be that the pinion in the jewel fit is good but the friction shoulder(s) on the pinion could be worn There has been a few rare occasions where the fork pinion jewel in the mainplate has moved in its mount, so take a look at that also. An indicator of this is the position of the pallet jewels, they should strike the escape wheel on their centre line. I have to admit on Asians this is rarely the case

I'm not trying to belittle your work and it's commendable that at you have adapted and overcome, to get your end result. There is however a more precise way of doing this that will give you a consistently better result, without a great deal more investment than you have already made. It will also help you with case tube installation. That said, Kudos to your efforts.

Whilst a decent drill press is an excellent start, knowing how to drill and what to use makes the difference between success and failure. Micky's machine will consistently succeed, a dremel won't