Ado213

Hi, I can help you wit this one, shoot me a PM if you want to proceed

I think your watch is either magnetised or the hairspring is clashing/sticking. Your beat error should be static, I'm pretty sure the new balance will sort the beat error out.

Yes it is, but it is only a fraction, you may get 0.2 mm . those 7750 dials are stubborn to move. You will definitely need a very good movement holder to do it and a steady nerve. I don't know your circumstances, if your not used to working with watches send it out to one of our smiths here. They have the kit

If it's running at 220 your way to low on amps, you need to be 275-315 for decent time keeping and a healthy movement. What is your beat error dial up showing? If you've ordered a balance complete (part 721) the you will have to attach this to the [censored], that is unless you have bought a complete balance and [censored], if so then it will be chinese and to be fair won't be the best it can be. you should be looking to replace the mainspring to get your amps up, this is almost always done on servicing. Also check the internal walls of the barrel for wear. Saying that, you should first check the movement, clean it, especially the Jewel holes and don't wear a jumper when you do it, you'll fill it full of fibres you've been working hard to clean out !! Lube as eta, don't oil the pallet pinion jewels and at this point don't oil the pallets themselves Incorrect lube on on the pallets could have caused it, but in your case I suspect the pallet pinions or indeed the pallet settings themselves were at fault. Before you you attempt to time this piece in check dial up and dial down readings, if they're not within a max of around 6 secs you won't be able to time it in accurately Everything in the watch has to be correct to get both good amplitude and isochronism Its a a bit like baking a cake, every ingredient has to be in there to get tasty cake Hope this helps

The only issue with using a dial spacer or for that matter a TC movement holder on a 2824-2 is that either increase the distance from the front of the dial to the stem, which in effect puts you back to 2836 stem heights. TC uses #4 pinions on his 2824's to counteract this distance increase and keep the hand stack correctly spaced. He also uses a fairly thic double sided tape to apply his DWO, this allows a degree of clearance between the reverse side of the DWO and date change mechanism. This clearance is quite important, as you would struggle with a clean date change without it. A 2824-2 does not officially use a dial spacer and are supplied from ETA without. A standard ETA 2824-2 also comes with #2 pinion set up which would be too small in length to mount the hands if you use a dial spacer. Another way of counteracting the smaller length #2 pinion problem is to use extended tubed hands, basically a standard looking hand with longer tubes on them. hope this helps

A fairly common problem with clone movements, and as this has only just occurred it sounds like wear. Obviously the problem lies with "end float" in either the staff or pallet fork. Knowing which position, ie dial up or down this occurs may point you in the right direction to find the culprit Firstly I would check for wear on the fork pinions, as these are not normally lubricated, they are one of the first things to wear and on Asian movements the pinion material is very soft. Check by delicately lifting the fork at the horn end to see how much play you have. If the fork pinions are worn a new pallet fork would sort this out. Don't forget that the wear on the fork pinion could be either vertical or lateral, so it could be that the pinion in the jewel fit is good but the friction shoulder(s) on the pinion could be worn There has been a few rare occasions where the fork pinion jewel in the mainplate has moved in its mount, so take a look at that also. An indicator of this is the position of the pallet jewels, they should strike the escape wheel on their centre line. I have to admit on Asians this is rarely the case

I'm not trying to belittle your work and it's commendable that at you have adapted and overcome, to get your end result. There is however a more precise way of doing this that will give you a consistently better result, without a great deal more investment than you have already made. It will also help you with case tube installation. That said, Kudos to your efforts.

Whilst a decent drill press is an excellent start, knowing how to drill and what to use makes the difference between success and failure. Micky's machine will consistently succeed, a dremel won't

Hi Dieselpower, glad we have the same point of view on this!. I've followed this thread on all forums from the start, I have to say the tone of a few have now gone far beyond even my patience at this particular time. So to the band of brothers who insist on making this mans life a misery, perhaps you should seek a hobby more constructive than physcological warfare, synchronised dynamite juggling comes to mind !!

Thank God PB has a temp ban on his insidious remarks at this time. What a septic bitter person!

AJ, a truly heart warming gesture mate Micky, glad you made it, my thoughts are with you

Update on TC's thread pitch. After having many discussions with Ticktick (Andi) it now seems that TC's case tube thread pitch has changed or my assumption was incorrect?. I have always been aware that it WAS M3 x 0.25mm pitch. It now seems it is M3 x 0.3mm pitch, Andi has measured his latest TC case tube, with thread gauges and has confirmed this. By the way the WSO case tube is threaded the same as TC's so it wont fit gen case. Andi is going to do a full post on his SD build and TC's thread sizes in due course, cant wait ! (had a sneak preview of Andi yesterday, very, very nice indeed !!!! So I guess at present we work of this, I am as sure as I can be off memory that TC's were M3 x 0.25 pitch, anyone care to chime in on this

Well Polexpete came up with a great idea in fitting the DWO underneath the GMt gearing on the ETA 2893 movement. There was a slight problem as the DWO caught on the hour bridge, however with a little thought this was easily overcome. I slipped out the stock ETA 2893-2 datewheel and replaced it with a 2836-2 datewheel. The 2836-2 datewheel is just that fraction higher than the 2893-2 and allows you to fit a DWO without rubbing on the hour bridge and yet still fitting under the GMT gearing, very nice indeed. you still need the stock eta dial spacer on the movement but it works fine, with no interference with date change. So there you have it guys, how to fit a DWO on an ETA 2893-2.

Here is my V2 at getting a generic crystal into a BP SD. first attempt failed WR above 3 bar. As the BP case is bored out to 30.1 mm and a generic or genuine Xtal with gasket is 29.6mm diameter, its obvious that the gen will not fit without a sleeve or ring adapter. here is my case bored to 30.1 mm inside diameter x 3.0 mm deep. you will see my "sleeve to the right of the case and below a better picture of the sleeve. Next we need a custom rehaut as in picture 3, you will see the xtal gasket to the right Ok we have this now, so lets look at the assembly, of the rehaut and gasket, picture 4. You can see that the gasket holds the Xtal by a small amount 1mm and the Xtal sits directly on top of the rehaut. Picture 5 shows the Xtal, gasket and new rehaut assembled Great. everything fits nicely and seems good so now we need to pre-assemble these components together and get ready to press them all home. Picture 6 shows the assembly prior to pressing Great nice and tight, not too tight but tight enough to give me confidence that this will be good on WR later on. Now we have pressed all components together lets look at the finished result, Picture 7 shows a top view Great looking good, I wanted the xtal that bit lower after seeing the pictures posted in this thread and that's what I got, picture 8 shows the stock BP on the right and the one Ive just machined on the left. This one passed WR at 6 bar so I am more than happy with the result. So in conclusion, it is possible to fit a gen Xtal to a BP SD. Yes you do have a 4 part assembly, rather than the genuine 3 part as shown in this thread diagram, however changing the Xtal now should be easy. Anybody wanting machining dimensions, I will post these Tuesday, cant access my works computer from here at the moment.

Update on my version 2 for fitting generic xtal to BP SD, got it Ephers ?