geekybiker

Since the mods moved my thread requesting a fix for the messaging. I need some help. I am getting a repair from Flavor Flav and he messaged me his address but since I cannot get in I was wondering if someone would please email me his contact info, if you have it. Please I want to send my watch to him before 5:pm EST today.

Please dont delete or move this. Please.

Please do not pm me. it is not working.

FWIW posting you email "in the clear" like this is a very bad idea for a number of reasons.

try something like

"Name at comcast dot net"

in the future. It'll save you alot of headaches from bots.

So I got my very first 7750 (pam186) then as I was excitedly playing with it the first night I think I did something really dumb. I think I tried to set the date while it was past 10pm. So now in position 2 the time changes fine, and if I sweep the watch through 24hrs the date still changes. The GMT hand still follows like its supposed to. However in position 1, nothing. No date change, no GMT hand movement either clockwise or anticlockwise. So it still works, but it's going to make date changes a little more complex. I feel pretty stupid doing something like that hours after getting it, especially since I had read about the issue on here before. Any ideas on what might be wrong, and if its worth trying to fix? Or should I just live with the little more awkward date setting at the end of every month?

So I had to send a watch back. USPS tracking said it arrived in china a week ago. Is this info not typically updated past this point? No info about customs or delivery past that point. Just wondering if this is normal, and if I should email my dealer about it. I dont want to bother him unnecessarily. Just been a long time since I originally ordered them with the shipping back and with chinese new year coming up this is going to be a long wait. :\

Last I heard of the watches I had to send back to china is that the had arrived in China. Im not sure if that is the same as delivered in USPS parlance though. Probably just sitting in customs. I hope they get back soon though. My fossil I had before I order these decided to break, so Im currently completely watchless. (Its been a bad watch month for me. Lost one, had the fossil run out of batteries AND break, another break, and one watch arrive the wrong model, and the other with a shattered crystal. )

Did you miss the legend at the top of the Seiko chart?

5BAR=50M, 10BAR=100M ...

Nope.

Actually those are ISO ratings. iso 5bar=50m etc etc. I looked into the whole thing more and all those ratings are really just the result of following the tests and labeling properly. Nothing as specific as saying that it would be okay at 5 bar and not at 6 bar. Unfortunately I can't get the complete iso standard without paying for it, but for example a 30m watch is tested at 1m for 30min and then 20m for 90s and given the 30m rating for it. *shrug* So taking those charts as very specific depth ratings isn't really correct.

This contradicts Seiko, Casio and every other company's information, by the way. Seiko rate their watches at 100m (330 feet) or 10BAR as can be seen in this chart:

Wikipedia, the unreliable Encyclopedia says the following, but you can probably go and edit it to make your argument correct.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watch#Water_resistance

That pretty much matches everything Ive seen previously. Only it doesn't really support your argument. They only equate pressure ratings to various activities. The citizen site is the only place I've seen the issue of absolute vs gauge pressure addressed. I bet I can dig up the exact same chart some where on the citizen site too. Though honestly 1 bar resistance is probably within manufacturing tolerances on most watches.

The main point of the first post was that the OP was off by a factor of 10. Not to quible over the relatively minor (for watches) 1 bar difference.

Bzzt. Close but no cigar.

1 bar is 10 metres underwater. 2 bar is 20 metres underwater. A 10 bar watch is a 100 metre diving watch.

P is the hydrostatic pressure (in pascals);

p is the water density (in kilograms per cubic meter);

g is gravitational acceleration (in meters per second squared);

h is the height of fluid above (in meters).

1 bar = 100 000 pascals

Where you're getting confused is that pressure in bars is measured relative to atmospheric pressure. A watch at 10 bars is 10 bars more than the 1 atm we have. 1 atm is an absolute scale, 1 bar is relative, that's why we have the two similar units.

Nope, you're the wrong one.

1bar = 10m = 33ft.

At surface level you are already at 1 bar of pressure.

Therefore at 10m/33ft you are under 2bar of pressue.

Bar is not a relative measure at all times. There is bar(g) and bar(a) (gauge and absolute)

I know its only the citizen website but...

http://www.citizenwatch.com/COA/English/fa...c=After%20Sales

"What is a BAR or ATM of pressure?

Water resistance is measured in BAR's or ATM's when the watch is in a static (motionless) state. One BAR or ATM is equivalent to the pressure at 33 feet under water. One thing to keep in mind is that we live at 1 atmosphere of pressure. This means that when a watch is water resistant to 3 "BAR or ATM", it is water resistant to 66 feet under water, not 99 feet as many people believe."

The water resistance of a watch is measured in bars. An easy way to remember this scale is this:

1 bar = 10 meters.(3.3 feet deep in water)

So when you see the markings on the back of your watch "Water resistant 10bar", or "W.R. 10bar, this means your watch is likely to resist water up to 333 feet. If you see a 20bar marking this means your watch is "likely" to resist water up to 666 feet deep. (my math is impressive......no?) Anyway, you get the point right? If your watch has no markings regarding water resistance you don't have any protection. If the back of your watch casing is engraved with "water resistant" and does not have a bar rating, this means it is "likely" to resist intermittent splashing or heavy rain.

This is inaccurate. 1bar=33 ft. not 3.3ft. And its 1bar at the surface, so at 33ft you are at 2bar of pressure.

Thanks everyone for the kind replies. The thing I like about this watch is just simply the way it looks, and the fact that I really could use a dress watch - by that I mean something yellow gold with a leather strap.

I've had an eye on this piece for a long time, as it just looks absolutely, positively fantastic. The truth is that nobody knows what a Patek Philippe is - and if even if someone should vaguely recognize the name - non-enthusiasts would be unable to know their outlandish prices (since most of these individuals think the most expensive pieces are exclusively Rolex...)

Im 100% with you. I ordered a pretty similar one

No idea how accurate or believable it really is, but it looks nice and has a swiss movement.

I DEFINITELY agree with crystal. In fact, I dont even think rep Patek's should be made, nor would I ever wear one. They pull away from your credibility, and the credibility of the entire replica world.

OTOH 99.9% of people will never heard of Patek Phillepe, and just go "cool watch!"

Do you want it 'cause you like it or you really want people to believe you own the gen? I could care less as long as it runs well and looks nice.

Im in the same situation. Tried to register and never got an email confirmation (checked the spam folder too.)

Makes me think about the guys who rebuilt and sucessfully flew Langley's Aerodrome, the one that crashed prior to the Wright Brother's flight, and claimed he actually built the first sucessful flying machine, even though there was the annoying complication that he didn't fly first!!!!!

Read somewhere that machine could do calculations to 30+ decimel places....but was operated by a crank and required thousands of revolutions for such a calculation!

heh heh. Yah. But you didnt say predating watches, just an impressive piece of purely mechanical engineering. I think all the mechanical computers are the coolest things though. Mostly because they are flexibe in what they can do. There are many great single purpose mechanical marvels (bridges or what not) But few that can do different things.

The Z1 is pretty cool as well

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z1_%28computer%29

Its electrically driven (as opposed to a crank) but its programable and mechanical.

Or this one from 1928

http://scoter2.union.edu/~hemmendd/Encyc/A...al/difanal.html

Nice effort but

Quote:

Babbage failed to build a complete machine. The most widely accepted reason for this failure is that Victorian mechanical engineering were not sufficiently developed to produce parts with sufficient precision.

True, yet not. The photo is of a working copy at a museum. While it wasn't built by him, it is his plan. Not to mention many such mechanical computers were made http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Difference_engine

Or how about this for 65BC!

http://www.guardian.co.uk/science/story/0,,1960316,00.html

Charles Babbages Difference engine?

Belial over @ RWI ships from the U.S. Drop over there and see what he has.

Sean K

RWI? Dont remember that one. You have a link?

If your shipment hits customs on a weekend, does it normal not get processed until monday?

The only one I think may have any bearing is the "weak ethics" one. After we are aware these are illegal to produce even if they are not illegal to own or buy in your country. All in all its a pretty laughable and elitist piece though.

Googling around and found this site

http://www.chronocentric.com/watches/counterfeit.shtml

With some amusing quotes

"Why do people buy fakes and what does it say about them?

Through years of studing fakes and talking with people about them, we have never heard any good justification for buying or wearing them... only excuses why some people believe they deserve the perception of owning 'luxury' products without having to go to the effort and expense to buy the real things.

Curiously, people who buy fakes seem to have a contradicting thought process. They act like it is 'only a name' when they choose a counterfeit product with a premium brand name on it. Counterfeit buyers seem to be ignorant of or ignore the real merits that make the genuine item far more valuable than the fakes--they just consider one watch to be about the same as any other.

But they obviously consider the luxury name brand important enough that they are willing to accept items of highly dubious quality and origin just to get that brand name on them. So we have yet to find how to interpret people's willingness to pay for counterfeit versions of 'the name'--especially when they have contempt for or ignorance of why the name is valuable--as anything other than wanting to cheaply impress themself and others.

Here's what buying and wearing fake/counterfeit watches really says about the wearer:

1. Poor Grasp of Value - Replicas are made to sell by looking like something far more valuable than they are. They are seldom made for quality, carry no warranty, are made from cheap parts and are usually not worth repairing. They are basically overpriced disposable products, so are a poor value for your money.

2. Lack of Integrity - Those that choose cheap replicas to try to impress others that they have a real luxury watch are using falsehoods to represent themselves. So that makes people wonder what else about how you represent yourself is false.

3. Weak Ethics - Choosing replica watches shows the world that you are willing to support unethical and illegal businesses--not giving a care about the ethics and legalities involved if they get in the way of getting something that you want cheaply.

4. Gullible - Especially where someone unknowingly buys a fake, they show themselves to be easily deceived and someone that throws caution to the winds trying to get a super deal on an expensive item.

5. Isolated - Certainly there are no clubs for owners of fakes. No comraderie among fellow owners. No sharing of tips, tricks and performance issues. No assistance with operation, warranty or repair issues. Fake buyers are on their own with nobody to care, nobody to help and nobody to compliment or encourage them--except for the occasional person you might encounter that doesn't know enough about watches to realize you are trying to 'impress' them with a cheap counterfeit.

"

Lol. Probably been here before Im sure...

But simply put you are NOT owning the "watch of your dreams".

You are owning a copy of it of much lower quality. Now that is GREAT. Nothing wrong is sort of pretending to yourself that you have something which otherwise would be out of reach and all of that.

Which is exactly why I refuse to buy a watch that I wouldn't buy if the label on the case said something different. IE I like the watch for itself, not for the original it represents. That being said, I dont see ever buying a rolex rep, etc.

Unfortunately most of the designs I like involve chronograph movements so that means dealing with asian 7750 movements and rolling the dice or spending almost double for the ETA version. While the failure of the asian movement may be higher, I doubt its at anywhere near a 40-50% rate.

Managed to get it through with money gram. Can't wait to see the reps.

Trying to buy my first rep online, and went to send the money via western union, but apparently it doesn't meet their "business standards" somehow. They wont allow me to send money online, and they wont tell me why it doesnt meet their business standards. Any ideas on how to proceed?

One thing to remember about tested pressures and diving is that rated pressures are static pressures. IE the watch isnt moving. While driving you'll be moving that watch through the water, increasing the pressure it will experience at any given depth. IE a 50m rated watch wont always stay watertight at 50m. I personally would never take a watch rated less than 100m underwater with me while diving.