jackflash

Seems a lot of the dials are tilted. Mine is too.

I don't know why Omega even bother with He valves, I think I've heard more cases where people have had water ingress from wearing an smp/Po with the He not fully tightened, than those who actually needed one for diving purposes.

Yeap. Agree with you, the HE value is a complete waste of time on this watch. I guess it's fine for the 0.5% of gen owners who do happen to find themselves in a decompression chamber

I've implanted the gen value into the case after a bit of drilling and stuck it in place with JB Marine Weld. I filed the value down slightly so I wouldn't have to drill through the case, so no possibility of a leak.

Yeap. It's just a push on crown, I managed to remove it with some gentle leverage without damaging the the case. 

It's usually just pressed in, Go to the internal part of the tube inside the case. You will see the stem here and a C clip on it. Stick in a small screw driver to release a C clip, (it just clips out) then you can remove the actual rep valve. 

Thanks for the reply Cougar. Unfortunately the inside of my case (v.5 42mm) isn't drilled through, just solid, so there is no access to the valve. I guess it means twisting and levering the rep valve off.

I've trawled through the forums and haven't been able to find a tutorial about replacing the HE valve on the v.5 42mm PO with a gen. I know it doesn't go right through the case, so is it just glued into the tube or screwed in too? Is a matter of just pulling the thing off? Any help, or links to a tutorial would be appreciated. Thanks!

I've replaced the "double corrector lever" with an original ETA one. Below some photos of the process, happy to say the watch is now back on my wrist

Thanks all for the encouraging feedback.   The pearl has now gone, it fell off naturally actually.

....Love the admiral grey strap....where did you get that one?

The Admiralty Grey strap is from "Phoenix Straps" in Cardiff, Wales. They were the original supplier of MOD G10 Nato straps. I found this one on eBay.

Also managed to bugger up the keyless works (clone 2836-2 movement), thanks to Sneed12's tutorial I managed to sort it out, all be it briefly! As I also discovered that the pivot post on the "Double Corrector Operating Lever" (bit of a mouthful) had fallen off. I've ordered a new one, also off eBay.

My 5517 from Joshua was looking a little too clean. So I thought I'd have a go at giving it some "patina". The effect on the dial was achieved with an old tea bag, water, alcohol and a halogen lamp. I also roughed up the case, insert and nato strap too. I'm in two minds whether to tackle the pearl or not...

I've ordered one from Josh - can't wait

The bigger question is why you would even want to bother putting a c.565 into the rep case.  It has a good resemblance to the gen when you're looking straight down at it; at other angles, it's not an accurate rep at all. 

Thanks for the info. I didn't realise the rep size was so off. You can pick up a gen dial for ca.150€ and a 565 movement for ca.100€ on ebay. I thought if they fitted into the rep case that would save going for Ofrei's gen case ca. 990€.

Is it possible to fit the 565cal movement and original dial, with date, to a rep case? I was thinking about using the one josh has on offer. Thanks!

Wow! Next time I'll just buy the Bergeon. Thanks everyone!

As a matter of fact, I have.

 

Can't get all of them, but you'd be surprised how much torque you can apply with a good clean sticky ball.

 

 

I have made something like 3 dozen dives wearing watches that were closed with sticky balls.

 

This watch was assembled by me and closed up with a sticky ball

 

Over-torquing the threads won't make a watch water tight, it's about flatness of the mating surfaces and a good gasket. Overtightening can actually ruin water tightness.

 

 

Whatever you say, sir. You sound like the guys on the gen forums talking trash about reps. What works, works.

@Sneed12. Sounds great, did you make your own sticky ball? What did you use? Thanks

@jackflash-

Please read this- There are some dud dies around.

 

http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=51

 

However that photo looks way out, a lot worse than I have seen. If you would like to put a mic on the OD of the knurled area, I can measure it against a known 29.5 that works.

But that looks way bigger...almost need a 36.5 DSSD die on that one.Normally the tools which don't fit are just a whisker too small, but that one you can see the knurled area almost completely.

I think your case manufacturer is having a lend.

 

Offshore

Thanks for the link offshore. I guess I've got a dud. 

Yes I tried it with my 5517 too. Same problem, both watches were from the same dealer. I'd hate to get a Bergeon socket and it not fit. Just wondering if anyone had the same problem with rep case backs and tool sizes.

I bought a 29.5 mm case back opener socket, not a Bergeon but something similar. However it appears to be too small for my 5513, is this usual? Is the milled edge of the rep case back slightly larger in diameter than the original? I've attached a couple of images.

5517

Nice watch lala, which dealer did you buy it from?