14060 or 16610?

Without seeing the watch in person, it sounds like the datewheel is just plain loose. If it uses an overlay, the overlay may not be glued down properly. Either that, or the calendaring mechanism may be loose somewhere (loose screw perhaps).

Sometimes this is caused by a short stem, but sometimes the keyless are just lacking lube and do not slide properly.

Neither Loctite nor adhesive required, and actually don't belong inside the watch case. They can flake and cause problems. Press fit is the proper method of installation.

Here's an excellent thread on this topic: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/why-are-guys-paying-100-54509.html

It's difficult to tell with these pics. Some closer and sharper pics of the area around the balance would help, particularly the ETA engraving. With the limited view provided, this appears to be a gen ETA movement.

Autowinding parts hopefully just dislodged and jammed rather than broken. Might just need to be disassembled, realigned, and tightened back up.

Thanks for the comments.

Yup, hands relume is on the list somewhere down the road. But doesn't bother me right now.

The dial color is actually called "silver" though it does appear white in some stock Breitling photos. On the website it appears whitish.

How about my franken?

Double-sided AR

Gen dial

Lello DW

Gen black calf with tang buckle

Gen ETA in the works (A7750 with Breitling rotor for now)

I will only work on Rolex for friends or family. And I make it clear to them that if parts are needed they will either cost an arm and a leg or I can use aftermarket parts. It is getting harder and harder to source Rolex parts, not even my posts at TZ get answered much anymore. When I can find parts, the prices are astronomical.

I think Rolex is just about the worst example of corporate bullying today. Makes MicroSoft look like child's play.

I started this thread over at RWI: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/rep-jewels-54442.html

I don't frequent this forum, so wasn't sure if this belongs in general discussion or in repair (apologies to the mods in advance). Has anyone else seen this firsthand? I tried to PM The Zigmeister but was unsuccessful.

Just replace with another A7750. If serviced, it will be just as reliabel as the ETA 7750.

Even without the autowind parts, teeth on the ratchet wheel can break if you wind too quickly. Just wind slowly and you should be fine.

Thanks for the information. Be well

David

Can you provide more info? Maybe some of the folks here can help walk you through it. Does it run if you hand wind it?

Silly question here: does the datewheel from the A7750 fit the ETA7750?

Yes absolutely it fits.

I sourced two genuine DW, but they had slightly lighter font color (dark gray). Does anyone know which Breitling model they are from? Thanks!

Possibly Crosswind.

That's not exactly correct. There is a A7750 Myths page somewhere that deals with the do and don'ts as well as with the myths about the A7750.

Runnin the Chrono on teh A7750 should NOT affect it's time keeping accuracy, certainly not to the point of being able to tell the difference, much less to the point of loosing 2 minutes for every 5 minutes it runs (1 min.fast/chrono off, 1 min.slow chrono on).

Given the HUGE discrepancy you're seeing in the first place (the watch is off by over 20%), I would say that there is somehting really wrong with it, and yes, you should be able to get some kind of action from the dealer you bought it from. None of us here would accept a watch that is this badly adjusted (or not adjusted).

I found the A7750 myths file, and below is an excerpt desribing what happens when you start the chrono:

Only two things happen when you start a 7750 chrono

1. The tilting pinion (which is running ALL the time) tilts over and engages into the center chrono seconds gear. The center seconds chrono gear has slight friction, in fact it

Look at that date, how centered it is in the window. Usually the numbers are to the left of the window and really "hug" the left border. Looks like someone has pushed the dial as far left as possible (see lume dots). I try to do this whenever I service a Rolex.

See post #18 in this thread: http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/what-does-a7750-look-like-52351p2.html

Yes, there is no comparison obviously between the Swiss and Asian parts. But the fact that the piece was installed upside down completely baffles me. I hadn't seen one like that yet.

Hi,

After reading for weeks the forums and reviews, I ordered a TAG Heuer Link from Silix 15 days ago, after a pleasant transaction complete with tracking, two days of Quality Control and many cordial emails, I finally received the watch. No doubt its a beautifully crafted and near perfect replica and so is the box that came with it..

- but there is a BIG problem, the watch gains about a minute every 5 minutes, basically im traveling in the future!!

Any suggestions on how (if possible) to fix the fault?

Thanks to all,

Lucio

PS

A quick technical update, I noticed something really odd:

The watch GAINS a minute or so every 5 minutes during normal use, but if I let it run with the cronograph on, it LOSES a minute every 5 minutes instead, maybe this can tickle some expert mind...

Thanks,

Lucio

The movement needs service, including adjustment and regulation. Activating the chrono puts more pieces into motion, creating slightly more drag; that's why it slows down considerably when the chrono is activated.

Cool, now that's how you regulate!

nice panda. are you a watchmaker ?

I've been known to dabble. ;-)

Thanks Freddy. I will give it a go.

The keyless button for this movement seems more robust that the ETA ones. I know that the etas are just a soft touch but somehow this was a very hard button to press. I will attempt to fix it myself.

Stem release on the A7750 does indeed require much more force than the standard ETA movements.

It is possible that the ratchet and winding gears have become misaligned in their recesses; the winding gear can in fact fall backwards towards the dial side of the movement. Not much, but enough that the hole is no longer aligned. Once that happens, if you keep trying, you will jam the gear into place and the only solution is to take it all apart and realign it.

Hey guys...

I have an asian fish in the better swiss case...i picked up a creme dial and recently installed it...quite honestly, prior to the dial change, i didn't wear the watch much to know if the movement had a problem or not...

no issues in removing/replacing the dial and hands and getting it all back together...it looks great...at first it stopped between 40-45 secs, but i thought it was just a breakin kinda thing...i then wore the watch an entire day and it didn't stop once...after letting it sit over night, she stopped in this spot...

now - it seems to stop there quite a bit...i have also wound it and the rotor does work freely...but for some darn reason it stops almost in the same place - whether i wear it or not...

the hands don't appear to be touching each other and time (minutes/seconds) hand location does not affect it...the movement is a highbeat asian movement (not sure if its a DG4813 or not) and the second hand sweeps great when she runs...it just seem to get near the 40-45 mark and hangs there...stopping the watch...

and advice on what is causing this?...i was thinking of breaking the watch down again and refitting the hands/etc - but not sure if this is futile or not...it's odd as sometimes it will go for hours and sometimes she just stalls out...no pattern...

i realize i could always find and/or drop in another movement...but would prefer not to...just wondering if there's a movement "fix" or if the hands needs adjusting, etc...

thanks...R

If you are positive the hand(s) is/are not making contact with anything, then it's possible there is dirt or a fiber in the movement, possibly in the teeth of the seconds wheel. It will cause jamming in the same spot every time.

Remove the autowinding mechanism. You will then be able to remove the rotor.