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e30m3

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Posts posted by e30m3

  1. 5 hours ago, markiemark said:

    Im selling 93150 Italian made bracelets over at RWI

     (also 78360/62510h/78390/etc) 

     

    image.thumb.png.ca91e8cc4df5242d41afbbe9769fff96.pngimage.thumb.png.c4e8d79a33a21b1e88eacbf01191a835.pngimage.thumb.png.64c17049f4099d0e75ae3a74b7370c15.png

    image.png

    image.png

    Those look good! I went over to the neighbor site and couldn't figure out how to check price/order, though. Spreadsheet link and chat link were both dead. Can you give me a link?

  2. 35 minutes ago, freddy333 said:

     

    Actually, the real dials DO "tan" that much, and more. But, were it mine, I would add a few tiny dark spots to two or three of the indices & then spray a light coating of matte varnish over the entire dial. Just enough to give the dial an ever-so slightly yellowed/aged appearance (call it patina). Then, find some matching hands. Done correctly, I doubt anyone but a hard-core collector would spot the deception from an arm's length away, which is my benchmark for success.

     

    Gen:

    c4a731a4-img_0262.jpg

     

    Gen:

    rolex-submariner-1680.jpg

     

    You should also peruse this old thread.

     

     

    Thanks for the pictures and the comments. I'm aware the Reds tan that much (i noted the fact in my original post), and I note that the white dial you attached has tanned. I'd be fine with that level of tanning. To my eyes, there's a significant color difference even between your attached pic and my dial - but that's the beauty of this hobby, to each their own!

     

     

    In any case, I wasn't meaning to debate whether or not the dial would pass (I'm sure there are gens that are brown!) -- for this particular build, I'm going for more of a "it's been hanging in the sock drawer" look than an "it's been used as intended for four decades" one. Thus, I'm looking for that early-onset creamy white. And so we'll break out the bleach this weekend. If it works, great! And if it doesn't we'll all have something to laugh about.

     

    Out of curiosity - method of choice for said "dark spots?" It's something I've been meaning to try on the "5513."

     

    Edit - definitely doing the Krylon matte finish when it's done, thanks for that. May even help conceal whatever I botch with the bleach!

     

  3. 12 minutes ago, Nanuq said:

    You might as well go big, or go home.  Right?

     

    Get some Sof Scrub kitchen sink liquid cleanser.  It's a thick viscous liquid.  Get some Q-tips and practice dipping the Q-tip and then making dots on a piece of paper until you can control your dot size.

     

    Now put a dot of Sof Scrub on one index, covering it from side to side.  Count to 8, or 10 if you're feeling brave.  Now rinse the dial with a TON of water to get the cleanser off.  It's potent and it works fast.

     

    Happy?  Do it some more.  And post some pics!

     

    Seems you're a braver man than I. Have you done this? Any results pics?

  4. 12 hours ago, freddy333 said:

    Before doing anything, I would post good clear pics of said dials. You may be fretting over nothing, or the pics might inspire the right solution.

     

    In general, the idea is to research thoroughly (& ask questions) BEFORE hitting the buy button. As you have seen, it saves a bit of buyer's remorse later on.

     

    Here we go. It's for a white 1680 - in my experience, the real ones just don't tan this much. Not yet, anyway (I know some of the red subs have). It appears slightly yellow in these photos - that's more of a flat tan in person.

     

    I want something more like the attached screenshot.

     

    IMG_2553.JPG

    IMG_2554.JPG

    Screen Shot 2021-04-09 at 8.56.00 AM.png

  5. Yeah you read that right. Zillions of ways to age a dial, but how about un-aging? I got a Vietnam dial that looks great but the indices are just too brown. Anyone have any experience with this? I was debating diluting some white paint and going for it with oilers...

  6. Avoid glue if you can - Try messaging "nostalgia-2000" on the bay. He used to sell the complete assembly for $100 or so. No guarantee that'll work, of course...

    You may have to polish but it gets you a more accurate bezel, too. 

     

    Alternatively, I had luck with the GS PA462-20A (which is also a killer superdome). That should be just a tad wider if I recall. Maybe better to start by dropping $10 vs $100 after all...

     

  7. Actually, that's a great point. I don't know how that didn't occur to me; because both the hour and the minute counter seem sunken. And since the hour can't be sunken, it must be that the hands need a nip, as you suggest. It does sound scary, but I'm out of options. Impossible to buy "IWC" hands separately for the A7750 movement. Tons for Valjoux, etc.

     

    I'd take any other ideas, though - what about somehow tightening the clearance of the dial spacer? (The wave washer - compress it a bit; any room to do so?)

  8. I have a fake IWC 3717 with a serviced A7750 movement - I had the dial off to fix the hour counter and when I put it all back together, I pushed the hands onto the subdial counters WITHOUT a proper 7750 jewel supporting holder. Nothing fell out, but it seems, now, that the hands sit right on top of (touching) the dials. I now have a correct 7750 jewel supporting holder. But if I install the subdial hands with enough pressure that they work (and don't slip when resetting the chrono, etc), they're stick on the dial, stopping the movement. I think one of two things might have happened and am hoping someone has an idea:

     

    1. Is it possible that I pushed the jewels PARTIALLY out? that is, they sit further down, now and need to be pushed back up? Is that even a thing? If so, how do I get them pushed back up?

     

    2. Maybe the hands need to be re-staked from having been installed too many times?

     

    Thanks!

  9. Wow I swear that listing wasn't there when I posted the question. Is the only issue the open "6" on the "26"? Has anyone tried to close it with ink/paint etc?

     

    And thanks much for the offers/checking, guys. I'm gonna try buying one of these on eBay.

  10. I've been talked down from this on an earlier build, but here we are again: I'm just too cheap to drop $900 on a fake case. So, I've got a cartel 1680/5513 case here for my budget 1680 project and I've tried both the Sternkruz and Clark's 25-127 crystals. Both are too loose, but the Clark's is closer - it moves JUUUUUST BARELY around the case neck (I'm not sure you could get a hair in between the two). I know I can glue the crap out of it and get it to stay on there, but what if I want something that pressure tests? There has to be some solution, doesn't there?

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