Irishcain

If you look at the difference between pics 1 and 2, pic 1 was before I found the toy, pic 2 was after I removed it. Once I ran it by the de-magnetizer, the amplitude jumped to over 300

If you're talking about the low amplitude, I'd noticed the same thing when I'd taken them to show the timing. I actually didn't realise my daughter had left one of her toys on my bench causing it to be magnetized. Once I moved it, the amplitude jumped significantly.

I love PAM’s and I’m actually on the lookout for a PAM 312, so I was excited when I was sent a 005 for service. They have beautiful movements, clean lines and classic details. So, first things first, I put it on the timegrapher to test its current state. The best reading I got was +10/day, the worst was +61/day Now we get to the heart of the matter, beginning with de-casing A sticky ball comes in handy here unless you want to spend the hundreds of dollars for the right case back openers. Take careful notice of the case fasteners. If you ever get them new, you’re going to have to file/cut them down to size. Better to just keep these safe if/when you remove them. Now we remove the hands and dial. A nice trick is to cover the hands with a piece of plastic (freezer bag cut open works) to keep them from flying. When you expose the keyless, make damn sure to pay attention to the spring. It will go flying. Get in the habit of using peg wood in your off hand to press it down until you can grab it with the tweezers. Keyless undone Now we turn it over and let down the power by releasing the click and SLOWLY letting the barrel unwind. Do this slowly or you risk damaging the spring. Again, pay attention to the click spring. If this goes, it’s possible that it’ll send the click flying as well. Remove the barrel bridge and train bridge Remove the balance, pallet bridge and pallet fork Now the train and the barrel Disassemble the barrel for cleaning and to check the mainspring. Everything that can go into the machine does, and the rest gets a good hand scrubbing. After the machine, all the jewels get pegged out. Once they’re done, and everything that needs to be replaced has been, you now reassemble. It should be noted that at this point, oil is both your friend and your enemy. It’s far better to have too little oil than too much. I suggest that, when you get your oiler, you run the tip over a sharpening stone to square it off. The oil will stay at the tip of the oiler rather than creeping up the side making it easier to judge the amount of oil you've used. Once the movement has been reassembled, it’s time to test for accuracy. This is done in 6 positions and can be tedious work. Once you’ve placed a position, you should leave it ideally for 3-5 minutes, which means the whole process can take half an hour or more. If you feel you need to make an adjustment in any one position, you need to go back and recheck all the other positions. Of the six I did for this beauty, here’s the best And the worst All in all, I love working on this movement. It’s bullet proof in most respects and can even be adjusted to be within COSC standards . A few words of caution. The center pinion and wheel are press fitted together. Don’t try to pull them apart and separate them from the watch unless you have both the correct tools to take it apart and to reassemble. Also, the bridges on this movement are heavy (as compared to other movements). When you’re replacing them, don’t use much pressure at all until you’re 100% certain that all wheels and pinions are in proper position. And as a final word, please remember that all the details on the movement are printed on and not laser etched, so be careful, otherwise you’ll have a blank movement when you’re done.

So I was sent a Tag to service, and I must say, it was actually quite an enjoyable job. The original problem was a non-functioning chrono, but a few other details were found along the way. First, there was removal of the movement. Next, I removed the hands and dial Now I begin disassembly of the movement, checking for current and future faults, beginning with the Date and Chrono Works Balance Assembly Moving onto the motion works I also disassembled the mainspring, but didn't take any pics. Sometimes you just get into the zone. And now the Keyless Into the cleaning machine Ahhh, clean parts After taking out each part and inspecting it, I also pegged out the jewels on each of the plates, bridges, and c*cks. When the cleaning was done, it was time to test the case Passed Perfectly! Reassembled and testing for accuracy And a Lume shot for the topping (I didn't mess with it, but it just didn't feel right leaving it off of here, lol) In the end, there were a few things wrong with the watch. Too much oil, misaligned operating lever, broken incabloc spring, missing incabloc cap jewel, broken cannon driver pinion and a bent yolk spring being the worst of the faults. All in all, it was a nice piece to work on, but it does remind you why a7750's aren't exactly the most trustworthy movements.

It's interesting, but I've never seen a rep quite like it.

+1 There's no denying the satisfaction of doing this but you'll spend a significant amount of money

I'm a fan of Tudor, but to be honest, I really hunk all three colors are garish.

Nice! Thanks for sharing

PBR, to tell the truth, I've never really understood it either. I get a hell of a lot of enjoyment just repairing. Vintigizing on the other hand, I can appreciate all the work that goes into it.

Tough run! The missus ought she'd had some jewelry stolen by movers this summer, but ended up finding it in my daughters toy boxes. It's not a pleasant experience, and you have all the best wishes I can send.

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Some of the TDs can source the part, or you can try fleabay.

I prefer the variety actually. I own a few gens, but dealing with all the ones that come into the shop, I seem to get a regular "refreshment". Besides, I feel that reps and gens are both works of art in their own right.

Technician mistake I guess. I hope you refunded some of his money for your "error". The H3 should be fine as long as there isn't significant differences in DWO width. The TC mod effectively doubles working width.

Rolex is always a PITA. You'd be better off getting some NOS springbars. It'd save some money at least until you get home and can get a proper job done. Any shoppe can do it for you and should cost less than $20.

I think he's updated it in his section.