TwoTone

Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 12:48 PM N E W M o d e l – Bell & Ross Desert Type 126 XL Dec 20, 2004 Based on the success of the olive drab Military Type chronograph, B&R has introduced the Desert Type with a khaki dial. The Desert Type 126 features a 43mm X 16mm stainless steel case with a “leather safety strap” cuff. Movement is an automatic ETA chronograph with 28 jewels and a 42 hour power reserve. The crystal and the display back are sapphire. It is water resistant to 200 meters. Courtesey timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 01:07 PM For our Dutch members TNG SWISS WATCHES Swiss Made Sailing Watch TNG Storms US Market and Expands in Europe Swiss brand TNG opens up the US market. The Swiss sailing watch can this year be found at exclusive retailers in the US. Additionally TNG Sailing Watches will expand its sales, distribution and promotion activities on the Benelux Market followed by Scandinavia. Six years ago professional catamaran sailor Dutch Herbert Dercksen returned from the Atlanta Olympics with an desire to develop an solid and accurate Swiss sailing watch, specifically designed for the new extreme demands of the Olympic sail racing rules and the various starting procedures. Dercksen (29), from a Dutch watch making family, teamed up with businessman Frans Dingerdis (39) and the brand TNG was officially born. TNG stands for Tack and Gybe, the two main manoeuvres to change course on a sailing boat. In 1998 the first patented TNG Sail Racing Watch was successfully introduced. The movement of the watch was developed together with Swiss watch brand Frederic Constant. In all details of the watch it is obvious that racing sailors were, and still are, involved in the development and innovations of the TNG watch collection in function and design. So far sales have been generated mainly through nautical distributors. In four years time 15.000 TNG watches have been sold in 11 countries, with main markets being Australia, Germany, The Netherlands and Norway. In 2003 TNG will expand its distribution to the Jeweler and promotes the brand towards consumers to support TNG’s objective with Jewellery distributors. At this moment the TNG collection contains five models, Baltic Cup, Match Racer, Race Master, Race Master Lady and Tornado. The first watch, the Tornado, was specifically developed for and by racing sailors. Inspired by the success four other sailing models were introduced. They also have some nautical features but are aimed at a wider range of consumers, who would like to be associated with the extreme nautical image through sail racing but do not race boats for a living. In 2003 TNG will introduce a new model of the Match Racer at the World Watch and Jewellery Show 2003 in Basel where TNG will be present for the second time. TNG is official Time Keeper of the Round Texel for the third consecutive year. The Round is the biggest cat race in the world with 800 cats on the start line. Dercksen has won the race twice. TNG Swiss Sailing Watches Six years ago professional catamaran sailor Herbert Dercksen returned from the Atlanta Olympics with an idea to develop a Swiss precision watch, specifically designed for the new extreme demands of the Olympic sail racing rules and the various starting procedures. Dercksen (29), from a Dutch watch making family, teamed up with businessman Frans Dingerdis (39) and the brand TNG was officially born. TNG stands for Tack and Gybe, the two main manoeuvres to change course on a sailing boat. In 1998 the first patented TNG Sail Racing Watch was introduced. In all details it is obvious that racing sailors were, and still are, involved in the development and innovations of the TNG watch in function and design. The movement of the watch was developed in close cooperation with one of Dercksen’s relatives, Peter Stass, owner/director of the Swiss watch maker Frederique Constant. Dercksen’s love and understanding of the sport, combined with his quest to develop a watch beyond the expectations, resulted in a remarkable sports watch. The combination of Swiss technology, design, luxury and accuracy with the ideas of top class racing sailors quickly gained international attention. Sales so far have been generated mainly through nautical distributors. In four years time 15.000 TNG watches have been sold in 10 countries, with main markets being Australia, Germany, Netherlands and Norway. In 2003 TNG will expand its distribution through the Jewellers in Europe. In order to support that objective TNG will promote the brand towards consumers. At this moment the TNG collection contains five models, Baltic Cup, Match Racer, Race Master, Race Master Lady and Tornado, all made in Switzerland. The first watch, the Tornado, was specifically developed for top class racing sailors. The four other models also have nautical features but are positioned as a luxury design item for sports enthusiasts and adventurers. These models are aimed at a wide range of consumers, who would like to be associated with extreme nautical image through sail racing. True to its roots TNG is the official Time Keeper of the Round Texel for the third consecutive year. The Round Texel is the biggest cat race in the world with maximum 800 cats on the start line. The attributes of the race and the TNG brand form a perfect match. Dercksen himself has won the biggest cat race twice. Dercksen now sails with dual Olympic Medallist Mitch Booth. The two catamaran specialists are preparing for the Athens Olympic Games in the extremely fast and wild Tornado Class. The team is one of the favourites to win the gold. Herbert Dercksen and Mitch Booth are the current World Champions Formula 18 catamaran and are placed 2nd on the World Ranking in the Tornado. Baltic Cup The Baltic Cup is a very versatile watch. One of the features is a countdown function that can be used for sailing regattas for example. Variations in model make this a watch desired by many. Next to these features the watch also looks very sporty. The ergonomic design is also very functional through its rounded stainless steel case and buttons. Quartz ETA movement Carbon or white dial Stainless steel case Screw –in crown and case back Scratch-proof hardened mineral glass 100 meters/330 ft water-resistance Rotating bezel in various colours Sailing chronometer Weight: 95 gr. Matchracer Tide Watch The Matchracer is a fully automatic watch. The nautical look results in a rather distinctive model in design and in features. The movement is Swiss, in a solid stainless steel case. The piece is waterproof and shock resistant. The carbon dial plate, fluorescerent hands, rotating bezel and the completely transparant back make this a very wearable collectors item. A unique feature is the top ring that indicates high and low tide.Automatic ETA movement (25 jewels) Carbon dial Stainless case Screw –in crown and caseback Skeleton caseback Scratch-proof hardened mineral glass 100 meters/330 ft water-resistance Rotating bezel Weight: 95 gr. Herbert Dercksen Olympic Tornado Source: Press release TNG Watches ( http://www.tngwatches.com ) Courtesy SwissTime Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 01:48 PM FREDERIQUE CONSTANT - Fight against Counterfeiting Counterfeiting is defined as: "The deliberate attempt to deceive consumers by copying and marketing goods bearing well known trade marks, generally together with packaging and product configuration, so that they look like they are made by a reputable manufacturer when they are, in fact, inferior copies". Piracy and counterfeiting costs the watch industry literally hundreds of millions of Swiss Francs per year and thousands of jobs. Consumers are put at risk by exposure to shoddy, substandard and potentially dangerous merchandise (a.o. trititum radiation and allergy reactions). Piracy and counterfeiting reduces companies ability and incentives to create and innovate. Counterfeiting is the very opposite of fair competition where manufacturers compete against each other on the basis of quality and price. The original watch manufacturer suffers at three levels: Loss of direct sales The cut-price inducement of the counterfeit product is often so strong, particularly to middle-men and traders, that legitimate goods can be precluded from a market. Secondary sales loss The consumer who buys a branded product believing it to be genuine will naturally blame that brand manufacturer when it fails. The producer thus loses both reputation and future sales potential. Long-term costs The damage caused to profitability resulting from lost sales can have serious repercussions on the labour force. It is estimated that up to one hundred thousand job losses a year in the EU are a direct result of counterfeiting. Factories in developing countries are even more at risk since they do not have the financial reserves to withstand a sustained assault on profitability. Investment in research and development is also a casualty when profitability suffers and hence a company's capacity to bring new and improved products to market in competition with less affected competitors. Frédérique Constant is the first watch manufacturer to implement a new technique against counterfeiting. At first glance, it is impossible to make the difference between a genuine and a counterfeit Frédérique Constant watch. Yet the genuine Frédérique Constant watches do have invisible marks that only show up under Ultra Fluorescent light. The Limited Edition number is printed invisible on the dial of the platinum Heart Beat Day-Date and Heart Beat Retrograde. Silver dials on genuine Frédérique Constant watches will show the limited edition number the Arabic index at 10 O’Clock: On genuine Frédérique Constant watches with black dials, the numbers will show before and after Swiss Made: Courtesy SwissTime Posted by: Neo Dec 20 2004, 02:47 PM ANDERSEN - 1884 After the great success of the Christophorus Columbus Watch in 1992, Andersen Genève is coming again with a new commemorative World Time Watch: the 1884 to the honour of Sir Sandford Fleming, the inventor of the "Universal Coordinated Time" and the orchestrator of the "First Meridian Conference" held in Washington in October 1884. There Sir Sandford Fleming presented his project to the assembled representatives of 25 nations who agreed to introduce the 24 hour time zone division of the earth, this to avoid confusion in the establishment of time tables by the railway companies and date exactly the telegraph messages. Today we have to be grateful to Sir Sandford Fleming and his vision. Could you imagine nowadays worldwide communication by phone, internet, television or air travel without this world time or "Universal Coordinated Time"? In order to commemorate this event, which happened 120 years ago, Svend Andersen launches an edition of 120 exceptional wrist watches with a historical automatic movement as well as his ingenious very thin world time indicator and a dial tracing the historical points. The solid gold cases of 41.0 mm diameter, 9.0 mm thickness will be individually numbered from 1-50 in red gold, 51-100 in white gold and 101-120 in platinum. The prices are: [*]Red gold (5N) 42 gr.: CHF 21'000.00 [*]White gold 44 gr.: CHF 24'000.00 [*]Platinum 56 gr.: CHF 42'000.00 Each watch will be delivered with a luggage style leather box and a booklet in English, French, German and Spanish with the story of Sir Sandford Fleming and World Time written by Clark Blaise, the American author of the book "Time Lord: Sir Sandford Fleming and the Creation of Standard Time". Source: Press release Andersen ( http://www.andersen-geneve.ch/ ) Posted by: Neo Dec 23 2004, 12:16 PM VACHERON CONSTANTIN’S LONGSTANDING AND SUCCESSFUL TRADITION OF ORIGINAL TIME DISPLAYS Watchmakers have long sought novel, unorthodox ways of expressing the time of day on their timepieces. From the early days of the pocket watch, they have ceaselessly sought ways to improve upon the classic functional display of the time by means of a pair of hands rotating around a dial. A variety of mechanical systems providing auxiliary or more sophisticated functions soon appeared. Many of them concerned the actual display of the time and date, an area where Vacheron Constantin has excelled ever since its foundation in 1755. The company’s history includes not a few inventive mechanisms affording an original expression of hours and minutes. As early as 1825, it had turned out a jumping-hours design with off-centered minute circle. Until very recently available in wristwatch format, this striking development was joined the very next year by one that also featured a repeater mechanism striking hours and quarters. Later on, rotating minutes and and day-and-date calendars were added to the jumping-hours display. During the first decades of the 20th century, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers were also to explore so-called “mysterious” watch faces showing the time by means of graduated rotating discs. In 1930, Vacheron Constantin went a step further with its so-called “Arms Upraised” pocket watches. This design featured a “retrograding” or snapback time display actioned “to order” by means of a pushpiece of the back of the case. The time was displayed by the arms of a tiny figure pointing to the hours and minutes inscribed on either side of the dial. (arms upraised representing a Chinese Mandarin-scan courtesy of Antiquorum) This unusual type of display has remained current at Vacheron Constantin down to the present day. In 1994 a memorable design incorporated the “Arms Upraised” idea but this time in a wristwatch, i.e. a far smaller volume. Conceived in homage to the celebrated humanist, geographer and cartographer Gerardus Mercator (1512 - 1594), it featured a twin “retrograding” and diverging display of the time composed of a pair of hands sweeping over sectoral hour and minute tracks on a dial in multicolored champlevé enamel depicting a hemispheric map of the globe. Joined at a point directly under 12 o’clock much like the twin “legs” of a compass such as Mercator made constant use of throughout his life and even adopted as his signature, the two hands provide an instantly readable display of the time. (Mercator with enamel dial representing Hong Kong) (Mercator with engraved dial representing Europe/Africa/Asia) This distinguished design was followed by the heure Sautante and the Saltarello, with snapback minutes and jumping hours. (Heure Sautante) (Salatrallo) THE FINE ART OF ENAMELLING : AN ANCIENT CRAFT AND A STUDY PATIENCE Neither coffee, tea nor of course tobacco. Stimulants of any kind are out of the question. The hand must remain ever steady and its every movement totally predictable and accurate. That is the first lesson in discipline any enameller learns to abide by. For discipline is the key to what is surely one of the most demanding of all crafts. Perhaps only the manuscript illuminators of medieval Europe practiced their art under somewhat similar conditions. The artist commissioned to design and enamel the dials of Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony watches honoring famous explorers begins by tracing with a sharp metal point the outline of his subject on a sheet of 22K gold barely half a millimeter thick and a little more than two dozen millimeters across. In some cases, he may use a graver to carve barely visible recesses in the workpiece to hold the enamel. Under strong binocular magnification, using a paintbrush made of one or two marten hairs, he will then deposit a few droplets of enamel of the right color on the dial. Colors must imperatively be applied in a strict, predetermined order. That done, the workpiece will be fired in a kiln at 700° - 800° Celsius (1290° to 1470° Fahrenheit). After cooling, it is smoothed, in some cases with powdered corundum, then meticulously polished. More enamel will now be applied, fired, smoothed, polished and so on – up to thirty times per dial. Firing times must calculated with great exactness according to the type and quantity of enamel applied, so precise firing times are understandably one of an enameller’s best-kept secrets. At the end of this elaborate process, a coating of transparent flux is applied and the workpiece is fired yet again, this time to 900° C (1650° F). After cooling, the dial is smoothed and polished one last time and delivered to the watch assemblers. This lengthy and meticulous procedure is hard on the nerves. Brittle and quirky, cooling enamel may unexpectedly shatter as it leaves the kiln. The heat-loss process must perforce be slow, careful and regular since sudden temperature changes can, in an instant, destroy countless hours of painstaking work. The two parts of every Patrimony dial have to be enamelled in tandem with the same colors, firing times and so forth in order to ensure their absolute uniformity. Yet, by the very nature of this craft process, each dial remains forever a unique, individual work of art, with a value to match, for “the same is never quite the same”. Vacheron Constantin is today the only watch house to commission such elaborately enamelled dials. As the heir to the most ancient and precious craft lore accumulated over the centuries by Geneva’s premier makes, the world’s oldest full-fledged watch manufacturer, in uninterrupted activity since its inception, takes no little pride in nurturing this gift from the past, in the knowledge that it is perpetuating a rare treasure: the age-old sister crafts of true art. ZHENG HE (1371 ~1434) THE EXPLOITS OF CHINA’S GREATEST MARINER At a time when Europeans still set store by sailors’ tales and ancient fables, the Chinese had conquered the seas. Having invented the compass and devised amazing navigational aids, they learned to navigate far and wide, guided by the Southern Cross and the Polar Star. Time they measured by burning graduated incense sticks. The peculiar segmented structure of bamboo inspired its shipbuilders to invent the watertight compartment. In the early years of the 14th century, Chinese maritime expeditions began in earnest. The Ming dynasty built one of the most powerful fleets in history. It comprised 62 huge multimasted junks and 100 lesser vessels, carrying nearly 30,000 men. This impressive armada was commanded by a towering figure of seafaring, admiral Zheng He (Cheng Ho). Captured and castrated when still a youth, he was placed in the service of a ranking member of the imperial family and given the name San Bao, meaning “Three Jewels”. In addition to the crew, the fleet included scientists, State officials and interpreters in all the languages spoken along the coastline of the Indian Ocean, from Vietnamese to Arabic. A full century before the first Europeans navigators explored this part of the world, Zheng He’s fleet had already been there seven times, making something like forty contacts with local powers from south-east Asia to Africa to the Arab world. Among other wonders, Zheng He once returned to China with a giraffe, a gift from the sultan of Malindi, in what is today Kenya, to the emperor. The presence of this “Celestial Unicorn”, as court officials called this strange beast, in the imperial zoo was considered a sign of auspicious fortune. From Indochina, Malaysia, Ceylon and India to the Persian Gulf, Somalia and even faraway Mecca, Zheng He is remembered as an unusually talented navigator and an inspired explorer. FERNAND DE MAGELLAN (1480 - 1521)THE FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE September 20, 1519. Commanding a fleet of five ships manned by 300 men, Fernand de Magellan sailed from the port of Seville, westward bound for the Spice Islands (today the Moluccas, part of Indonesia). Spurred by his studies and early experience, Magellan dreamed of reaching far-off Asia by sailing to the south of the landmass discovered by Christopher Colombus – no mean feat at the time. The ships reached Brazil, anchoring off what is today Rio de Janeiro, then travelled south to Patagonia. Surviving mutinies, quarrels, shipwrecks and disease, Magellan sailed on, buoyed by his enthusiasm and determination. He eventually discovered and navigated the straits that today bear his name, sailing along a coast dotted by native campsites which he called Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire). He again reached the open sea, so marvelling at its calm expanses that he named it Pacific Ocean. Having reached the Philippines in 1521, he died during a battle with a local tribe. Only one of the five ships, with eighteen men and a hold full of spices, was to complete the journey back to Spain. It was the first vessel ever to have sailed all the way around the world. Over and above his dreams of exotic treasures, Magellan’s voyage demonstrated conclusively that the earth was indeed a sphere. Courtesy the purist

Posted by: Neo Dec 19 2004, 07:44 PM EBERHARD & CO Vanderbilt Cup Dedicated to one of the finest victories of racing driver Tazio Nuvolari, this chronograph has a co-axial pushbutton on the crown and a vertically-sliding pushbutton that opens the cover to reveal a finely-worked, personalised movement. Brand: EBERHARD & CO Model: Vanderbilt Cup Movement: Automatic, 28,800 V/h Blued screws, côtes de Genève patterning Function: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph with a pushbutton at 3 o'clock (reset to zero), tachometer Case: 750 (18C) pink gold Double-sided antiglare sapphire crystal 750 (18C) pink gold cover with engraved hinge Screw-down sapphire back, signed by Tazio Nuvolari Dial: White, luminescent numerals and baton hands Bracelet / Strap: Crocodile, gold clasp Other version: Steel White dial with Arabic numerals and blue leaf hands Source: http://www.eberhard-co-watches.ch Posted by: Neo Dec 19 2004, 07:59 PM NINA RICCI - N015 Of genius and elegance N015 - Of genius and elegance A change in personality on a whim inspired by the mood of the moment.An elegance varying in style: sober by day, sophisticated by night, proper or brazen, opulent or casual, but invariably refined and feminine. The secret? A system of interchangeable bezels, patent pending. A revolution on the wrist, an industry exclusive. A way to vary styles, textures, designs when in the mood for change. A blend of steel and plated gold to grant the watch another face. Discreet with polished bezel. Wise with engraved Arabic numerals. Romantic when heart-shaped. Chic with diamond indices or raised Roman numerals. Sparkling under a shower of diamonds. Dazzling with precious stones set on the bezel. Avant-garde in a decor of excentric circles. Fashionable when signed NINA RICCI. Graphic with stud imprints in black. Made in Switzerland, marked by fine craftsmanship, with three bezels adorning each dial. Additional bezels to be chosen as inspired by changing moods and seasons. N015. One watch, a thousand faces. N015 - Technical data case 316L polished steel or 18 ct. gold-plated, 10 microncrown engraved with “NR” diamonds TW/SI quality movement Swiss quartzcalibre 5 1/2 Ronda 751 glass mineral with sapphire treatment dials steel: white mother-of-pearl, rhodium, blackbicolour : white mother-of-pearlgold-plated: white mother-of-pearl, champagne bezels three basic bezels with each model bracelet 316L polished steel or 18 ct. gold-plated, 10 micron clasp folding buckle, invisible case back numbered and engraved water-resistance to 30 meters (100 feet) guarantee two years place of manufacture Switzerland http://www.ninaricci.fr Posted by: Neo Dec 19 2004, 08:13 PM GERALD GENTA - The legendary watchmaker Creativity personified in the world of watchmaking, Mr. Gérald Genta has surprised and fascinated watch enthusiasts all over the world for almost fifty years. Defying conventions and fashion trends, he has dreamt up new ways of telling the time. His signature has become synonymous with a subtle alchemy of talent and audacity. He has given birth to almost a hundred different watches, several of which are true watchmaking masterpieces. A number of them currently feature as key models in the most prestigious of watchmaking brands. And, as a true craftsman, Mr. Gérald Genta has similarly designed historical pieces, such as an automatic minute repeater, housed in an ultra-flat case, and a Grande Sonnerie, a watchmaking masterpiece made up of more than 1000 highly advanced micromechanics parts. Acclaimed by the entire community of connoisseurs and declared the world’s most complicated wristwatch in 1994, this feat testified to a watchmaker at the very pinnacle of his art. His creativity appears to be uncheckable, as if everything he has achieved in the past simply serves to spur him on to what is to come. The seasoned eye of the master is constantly alert, ready to absorb forms and systems which his inventive spirit then transforms, adapts or renews. And each time he creates something new, each time he comes up with another discovery, that selfsame air of delight prevails once again, both for the inventor-watchmaker himself and for the entire community of connoisseurs. A multi-faceted creator, Mr. Gérald Genta similarly cultivates a taste for painting. His artistic talents have been nurtured since the age of seven, when he first discovered the pleasure of excursions into unadulterated nature to seek out enchanting landscapes. Devoted to watchmaking, he gave up his brushes and easels for a time in order to create the models to which he owes his fame. Although Mr. Gérard Genta displays true rigorousness in his watchmaking creations, the artist in him continues to dream of splendid compositions, bursting with colour, where he can let his imagination run loose. It is thus only natural that, having gained recognition in the world of watchmaking, Mr. Gérald Genta should return to his first love. Today, the watchmaker has succeeded in uniting his two passions. Giving preference to freedom and boldness over productivity, he sold his first company and reconnected with true craftsmanship by launching the new Gérald Charles brand in 2001. This takes up two-thirds of his time, the remainder being devoted to the polychrome dreams that he expresses in two dimensions. MR. GERALD GENTA & ANTOINE PREZIUSO: A FRUITFUL MEETING OF TWO BIG MASTERS OF WATCHMAKING Nothing was to be left to chance when devising the true masterpiece of the Gérald Charles collection. Mr. Gérald Genta, who had designed the piece already and had it pictured in his mind, thus called upon an expert in mechanical movements to translate the heart of this splendid grand complication into practice. A true virtuoso and aesthete, Antoine Preziuso devotes himself unceasingly to injecting beauty into every last detail of a watch. His patience and skill, the keys to his infinite precision, opened up the field of extreme miniaturisation to him – a field in which he rapidly excelled. Always on the lookout for new challenges and with a passion for developing limited series to give full rein to his inventiveness, he plunged into the adventure without a second’s hesitation. “Surprising oneself, pushing back one’s own limits”, could be the motto of these two talented creators. There is thus nothing exceptional about the fact that they have teamed up to confront one of the most difficult exercises of mechanical watchmaking. A piece of this technical sophistication calls for care right down to the very last detail, for the resolution of the full range of constraints. These stringent demands, this constant quest for performance, has paid off brilliantly, since the two talented creators have additionally succeeded in adding elegance to the starting variable. Both creators are now eagerly awaiting the reactions of the public and watch collectors. And it’s a safe bet that they will not be disappointed. TOURBILLON An aesthetic masterpiece As with any major creation, this item incorporates distinctive aesthetic characteristics which form the very signature of the Gérald Charles tourbillon. Exterior: Mr. Gérald Genta has paid extreme attention to the slightest details to ensure such a pleasing overall effect. Thus for example, he has opted for hands in two different (19th and 20th century) styles to display the hours and the minutes. This was a daring wager. However, the very fact that they are thus individualised makes it very easy to differentiate between them. The delight in taking people by surprise, so dear to the heart of Mr. Genta, is thus coupled with functional considerations. Movement: The calibre carrying the signature of Antoine Preziuso is a creation typical of other movements by the master-craftsman: it is distinguished by pure, understated lines and beautiful finishing. The tourbillon bridge: Created for purely aesthetic reasons, it signals the continuity between the watch as a whole and its movement. Its distinctive shape, chosen by Mr. Gérald Genta, reinforces the personality of the timepiece, especially since it recalls the moustache of the famous watch designer; while it unmistakably owes its meticulous crafting to Antoine Preziuso. A technical prodigy Wishing to have a tourbillon cage that could move around freely, as if by magic, the two creators opted for the most difficult of solutions: a flying tourbillon. Antoine Preziuso therefore had to skilfully resolve all the problems encountered with this type of device and to construct a robust, yet lightweight, tourbillon carriage. This tourbillon thus bears witness to the perfect mastery of the watchmaking craftsman, embodied by Antoine Preziuso. Movement: Mechanical, "Antoine Preziuso" calibre with tourbillon, 28,800 vph, 25 jewels, double barrel 72-hour power reserve. Blued screws Functions: Hours, minutes Case: Pink or white gold, 44 mm. Glareproofed sapphire crystal, screw-down sapphire back Engraved and signed by both craftsmen Dial: White mother-of-pearl, Teflon with sunray motif in the centre, 1-minute tourbillon at 6 o'clock with decorated bridges. Asymmetrical hands Strap: Crocodile leather, folding clasp Other version: Platinum STAR LADY GOLD The interplay of gold and red is beautifully staged by a silky strap and a boldly geometrical case. This resolutely feminine watch displays a luxurious personality, enhanced by the diamonds adorning the hands as well as the sparkling reflections of the sapphire crystal cut like a precious stone. [*]Movement: ETA Swiss Quartz [*]Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds [*]Case: 750 (18K) pink gold, 35.5 mm [*]Set with 12 “Burmese” rubies (0.51 ct) [*]Facetted glareproofed sapphire crystal [*]Dial: Mirror effect [*]Hands set with 3 white TW-VVS diamonds (0.06 ct) [*]Strap: Black satin, folding clasp [*]Other versions: 750 (18K) white gold with case set with [*]12 white TW-VVS diamonds (0.38 ct) [*]Matching bracelet set with 74 white TW-VVS [*]diamonds (2.3 cts) or black satin strap Source: http://www.luxury-griffes.com

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 11:43 AM Swatch Announces New Swatch Smart Watch Delivers Exclusive Entertainment Information and More Via Microsoft's MSN Direct Service NEW YORK and BIEL, Switzerland -- Oct. 20, 2004 Swatch, the innovative, trend-setting watch brand from Switzerland-based Swatch Group, the leading global watch corporation, has joined with MSN® Direct, a division of Microsoft Corp., to launch a stylish and colorful new watch known as Paparazzi. With four new multicolored styles, Paparazzi offers wearers exclusive entertainment information and the opportunity to meet celebrities. In addition, Paparazzi owners can access the MSN Direct service to receive personalized information, including news, sports, weather, horoscopes, stock quotes and more. Nick Hayek Jr. (left), CEO of Swatch Group, and actress Mischa Barton join Microsoft Chairman Bill Gates to model the new "Paparazzi" watch line, which can access MSN Direct. New York, Oct. 20, 2004. Click image for high-res version. The velvet rope just disappeared for Swatch Paparazzi wearers. They will be in the know before everyone else thanks to Swatch City, new, specialized content from Time Out on hot bars, cool clubs, hip locales and free events around town. Also unique to Swatch Paparazzi is the opportunity to register to win a Swatch Meet A Celebrity package. Swatch Paparazzi offers consumers the chance to meet a celebrity from the worlds of business, sports, music and film. The Swatch Meet sweepstakes unfolds over the next six months and is available to buyers and nonbuyers of the Swatch Paparazzi alike. The first celebrity meetings featured in the Swatch Meet sweepstakes include a tour of the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in January 2005 with Microsoft Chairman and Chief Software Architect Bill Gates; a training session with Olympic Gold Medalist Carl Lewis; and a visit to the set of "The OC" with star Mischa Barton. More information about Swatch Meet is located at http://www.swatch.com. Swatch Paparazzi represents the first Swatch Smart Watch offering automatic content out of the box. The following content is available to every Swatch Paparazzi buyer upon purchase: Swatch City, which offers entertainment news and national news headlines; local weather high and low temperatures; major stock indexes; Swatch Meet; and Swatch News, which relates brand happenings. "Communication is very powerful. The information you share is one part and the way you communicate it is the other. Swatch Paparazzi offers a lifestyle of communication that is original and fun -- clearly a plus for the wearer," said Nick Hayek Jr., CEO of Swatch Group. MSN Direct: Sophisticated Technology MSN Direct offers Paparazzi wearers the ability to personalize channels of information including news, sports, weather, horoscopes, personal messages, calendar appointment reminders, stock quotes, lottery information and more. Subscribers to MSN Direct choose only the information they wish to receive on their watch by visiting the MSN Direct Web site at http://www.msndirect.com. Since MSN Direct was launched at CES in January, the amount of content offered by the service has doubled, and subscribers can choose from a range of pricing options to best fit their needs. "The introduction of the Swatch Paparazzi watch represents a milestone for Smart Watches and MSN Direct. We are thrilled to work with an industry leader like Swatch to offer specialized content and stylish watches specially tailored for Swatch customers," said Bill Mitchell, corporate vice president of the Mobile Platforms Division at Microsoft. Swatch Meet Of all the functions provided by Paparazzi, perhaps the most evocative is the opportunity to meet a celebrity. Through the Swatch Meet sweepstakes, wearers can register to win the chance to spend time with one of four celebrities representing the worlds of business, sports, music and film. The sweepstakes is scheduled to start Oct. 20 and will run for six months. One winner every six weeks will be selected at random and flown to meet the celebrity of the month, courtesy of Swatch. About Swatch Paparazzi The Swatch Paparazzi is available in four vivid colors including orange, red, black, and a blue and beige combination, and all sport an adjustable silicon strap. The traditional Swatch plastic case comes in a new chunky design and an extra-large size. Five function buttons recessed into the case allow the wearer to navigate and control the watch functions. The Swatch Paparazzi is waterproof and comes with a lithium-ion rechargeable battery and a two-year warranty. Swatch Paparazzi retails for $150 at all 40 Swatch stores and is available online at http://www.swatch.com. Press release MicroSoft Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 12:43 PM Makers put emphasis on branding, IPR December 13, 2004 The prosperity of Hong Kong's timepieces industry in 2005 will be defined by two developments: the effectiveness of the Closer Economic Partnership Agreement and the trend among suppliers for OBM and licensed watch production. World consumption of fashion timepieces grew 4.5 percent in each of the past two years. Consumption in the mainland market in particular shot up 27 percent during the period, and Hong Kong suppliers can tap into this potential by selling own-brand or licensed watches to the mainland via CEPA. Even with this promising outlook, the timepieces industry has yet to reap the full benefits of CEPA, a cross-border agreement that allows products made in Hong Kong to be sold duty-free in the mainland. But so far only a small percentage of Hong Kong timepiece companies have applied for CEPA certification. Most suppliers still feel that the year-old agreement does not provide enough advantages to justify the higher production costs involved. Many Hong Kong suppliers have relocated assembly lines to the mainland over past years due to the lower production costs there. However, in order to sell to the mainland market duty-free under CEPA, a Hong Kong company must ensure that its product has at least 30 percent local content. In other words, 30 percent or more of the combined cost of the product's raw materials, components, labor, development (design, licensing and patenting) and assembly has to be incurred in Hong Kong itself. Most suppliers are not willing to move production from the mainland back to Hong Kong, where land prices and labor wages are much higher. Moreover, the mere act of computing the 30 percent value would be too costly for many suppliers, as third-party accountants would have to be hired to check computations. This additional expense alone is dissuading makers from marketing high-quality models in the mainland. Courtesy Timepieces Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 12:57 PM Low-end competition pushes makers upmarket The Grande Cruz from Hong Kong's Intertime (Far East) Ltd features four lugs that move independently of each other. December 10, 2004 Even in mainland China, some suppliers are following Hong Kong's lead and shifting from premiums to their own upscale designs. Big steps in Hong Kong followed by smaller ones in mainland China. That describes the rate of movement in two watch manufacturing centers away from premiums models and toward upscale designs. More Hong Kong suppliers are steadily moving up to midrange and high-end watches in response to mainland makers dominating the premiums line with their lower prices. Hong Kong watch companies have significantly decreased production of low-end models, and some suppliers have completely stopped offering them. The production shift is evident across all watch categories in Hong Kong, but it is most prominent in the line for novelty and fashion models. Because design is the main selling point of these watches, many companies feel they must apply for a patent on each model they develop. However, illegal copying remains a problem in the industry, and this is another incentive for Hong Kong's design-oriented suppliers to go upmarket and make models as intricate as possible to thwart copycats. Even in the mainland, where low-priced models have long been the backbone of the timepieces industry, some makers are heading upmarket due to fierce competition, albeit in smaller steps. While the focus in the mainland remains on low-end OEM production, where a return on investment is guaranteed, more makers are releasing own-design watches that carry in-house and buyers' labels for the midrange and high-end markets. However, these designs are usually produced in small quantities, with no guarantee of repeat orders. Even though some companies are taking such steps, most mainland suppliers continue to devote the bulk of output to low-end and midrange models, including in the novelty and fashion watches line. OEM work is still the most vital aspect of business for novelty and fashion watch suppliers. While more in-house designs are available, most companies manufacture watches according to buyers' specifications. The majority of suppliers require a large minimum, usually around 10,000 pieces, for each OEM order. But not all buyers are willing to purchase 10,000 pieces for a design not yet tested on the market. In fact, the trend among buyers is for flexible requirements in terms of MOQs, payment terms and lead times. Courtesy Timepieces Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 01:02 PM Hong Kong cultivating licenses Solar Time Ltd of Hong Kong designed and manufactured this watch with negative LCD for Giordano. December 10, 2004 One of the easiest ways to move up from low-end to midrange and high-end production is to acquire manufacturing licenses from major fashion brands and retailers. Hong Kong companies in particular are focusing on such relationships. Many of the locally based companies that participated in the September 2004 Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair showcased watches they had made for fashion brands such as Bill Blass, Levi's, Giordano and Morgan. Hong Kong-based Solar Time Co. Ltd designs and manufactures watches for apparel and accessories brand Giordano, sportswear brand Beverly Hills Polo Club and motorcycle brand Triumph. Before coming up with designs for these brands, Solar Time studies a company's profile and image. For the Beverly Hills Polo Club label, which is under license from BHPC Marketing Inc., Solar Time keeps to the brand's classic look. Even though they might have a sporty feel, the watches have streamlined cases and clean, uncluttered dials. Watches for Giordano, however, have a more youthful look. One design features a negative LCD, which displays time in yellow against a black background. A similar design shows white digits against backgrounds of different colors. In addition to designing and manufacturing watches for its licensers, Solar Time provides product accessories such as retail displays, packaging, POS and POP materials, and care and instruction leaflets. Chung Nam Watch Co. Ltd of Hong Kong is a licensed manufacturer for Swiss watch brand Roamer. However, Chung Nam focuses mostly on development of ODM watches, of which all designs are registered. Depending on the material, construction and specification, the company's FOB prices are between $5 and $30 per watch. Chung Nam releases two watch collections each year, the latest of which features an all-white or all-black theme. These watches have round dials in square-shaped cases. The dials, cases and straps match in either white or black. Intertime (Far East) Ltd has taken brand development a bit further. The company was set up in Hong Kong more than 10 years ago to produce ODM watches for European clients. However, it has since stopped handling ODM orders and now focuses completely on creating and developing designs for its own Vo!la brand of watches. The company's first Vo!la collection was launched in 2002 at the BaselWorld watch and jewelry show in Switzerland. It has 11 collections to date, all of which have registered designs. Intertime has 20 distributors that sell its Vo!la watches in 35 countries. To protect its watches from illegal copiers, Intertime does not show a new model to its distributors unless a patent has been acquired on the design. Two of Intertime's latest collections, N° 8 and Grande Cruz, were displayed at the September 2004 Hong Kong fair. The Grande Cruz collection is an update of the company's Cruz watches that have a cross-shaped dial in an all-stainless steel case and a 1/20-second chronograph. Designs in the new collection still have across-shaped dial, but the stainless steel case is now oversized and attached to four lugs that move independently of each other. The case is also fitted with a pangolin-print Italian calfskin strap. The N° 8 collection is available in two styles: with a plain bezel or with 5.5-carat white diamonds on the bezel. The triple-time chronograph has an eight-shaped, triple-layered 316L stainless steel case with a curved, screw-down back carrying one Swiss Ronda 5040.B movement and two modified Ronda 1042 movements. Watches without diamonds retail for about $900 each. Diamond-studded models sell for as high as $3,000 per watch. Courtesy Timepieces Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 01:04 PM Exclusive ODM work in mainland China December 10, 2004 In the mainland, fashionable watches are traditionally available in low-end to midrange models, which are made either from slightly modified case molds or newly tooled molds based on buyers' specifications. Trends last for two seasons at most, making it impractical for most suppliers to invest heavily in the high-end production of in-house designs. The same is true for novelty watches. Most of the mainland's output of novelty watches are low-end models used primarily as premiums. These watches usually have either cultural icons or cartoon figures on the dials or straps, and many come with oddly shaped cases. Midrange designs may have additional features such as interchangeable straps. As with fashion designs, suppliers consider it risky to produce high-end novelty watches. Most buyers will not make bulk purchases of new novelty styles that have not been tested on the market and which have higher price tags. As such, most suppliers in the mainland will continue focusing production on low-end to midrange designs of fashion and novelty watches. Even so, many mainland suppliers are boosting their design capability. And at some of these companies, ODM orders already outnumber OEM orders. At San-Ban Intl Ltd, only 20 percent of fashion and novelty watch production is for OEM orders. The bulk of output now involves in-house designs created by the company's 15-person design team. ODM models account for 70 percent of fashion and novelty watch output at Zhangzhou Hongyuan Watch Industry Co. Ltd. Both companies sign exclusivity agreements with buyers to ensure that case designs will not be shared with other clients. In Hongyuan's agreements, there are stipulations that exclusive case designs will not even be published in product catalogs or displayed at trade shows. Courtesy Timepieces Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 01:08 PM CVD technology yields alternative to sapphire crystals Mainland China – Shenzhen Leidi Science & Technology Co. Ltd has developed a diamond membrane for use as a low-cost option to sapphire crystals. Leidi used CVD technology to apply a layer of diamond membrane onto a substrate. The finished crystal has properties similar to that of sapphire, but at a lower cost. Diamond crystals are hard and resist abrasion. Diamond membrane has been used for various purposes since the 1980s. Diamond purity is usually between 60 percent and 90 percent, resulting in translucent membranes. But Leidi sales representative Hua Dianbo claims the company can produce diamond membranes with a purity of up to 99 percent, yielding transparent films. Leidi's diamond membranes can be applied to metal, glass and plastic substrates. In addition to watch crystals, the diamond membrane can also be used as a harder coating alternative for metal watchbands. Leidi carries the patents for the diamond membrane watch crystals and bands, with respective patent numbers ZL97114300.5 and 01242407.2. Courtesy Timepieces Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 02:35 PM Breitling fakes and replicas - revealed Fakes nearly always used to contain cheaper quartz movements, though a lot are now appearing with automatic movements, so beware. On the quartz models,the second hand has a stacatto ticking movement, whilst the real thing will have a much smoother sweeping movement around the dial. The quartz model sub registers will also be at 10, 12, and 2, instead of 3, 6, and 9. The Val 7750 (Breitling cal 13 - Navitimer and Chronomat) automatic movement only winds in one direction. Put the watch to your ear, and you should only be able to hear the pawl engaging the winding gear in one direction. No swiss made statement at the bottom of the face, or in the subdial at six. Dial says 'Navitimer', but does not have 'Breitling' on the dial. This is common with Russian fakes, eg the 'Navitimer Blue Angels'. There is now, a Poljot fake, identical to the 'Blue Angels' Navitimer, that does have Breitling on the dial, in the old fashioned script style. This watch does not have a signed crystal, and the back is signed Poljot, but beware... this is the most convincing fake I have ever seen. If the caseback is 'sterilised', it looks exactly as a vintage Breitling should. The watch has luminous hands and markings, that do not glow at night, or glow only for a minute or so. Sub register configuration is incorrect, ie mins where hours should be. Get a makers catalogue, and check the position and configuaration. Inappropriate movement of indecies on sub dials, ie, secs tracking on hours chapter. Some newer, automatic watches, have perpetual calendar readouts instead of accumulated time registers. These can be easily spotted with close examination. Some mechanical 'Chronomat' and B2 models have just entered the market, which to the uninitiated can be mistaken for the real thing. The dead giveaway is that they have perpetuel calendar subdials, ie day of the week and date instead of elapsed hours and minutes. A close examination should weed out these little beggars. Dial markings are poorly printed, and can look smudged under magnification. All newer (say post 1999) Breitling watches have a small 'B' engraved on the bezel edge between 10 and 11. This will be absent on fakes. Non cambered or non anti reflective crystals, scratches on crystal - all contemporary Breitlings have sapphire crystals, and all have non reflective crystals. Incorrect dial layout - Automatics have subdials at the cardinal quarters, 3,6,9, and 6,9 and 12. Most quartz fakes have them at 2, 6, and 10. No model or serial no on case, or incorrect model number for type of watch. There is a relief medallion in the centre of the case back, that has NOT been lazer engraved into the case. They are most often made of alloy, and applied separately on fakes. Case is chrome plated brass, not easy to spot. If the seller will allow you, and he will if he is genuine, scratch the surface, where it will be invisible, between the lugs. The thin coating will easily be scratched off. If it is stainless, it will not scratch easily, and will not cause damage. (last resort!!) Breitling bezels are lazer cut, not moulded. If you look closely at the bezel on a fake, you can see slight bulge in the bezel where the markings have been press embossed. The rider tabs, (claws) at the cardinals are out of proportion to the bezel. With the Chronomat model, ensure that the pushpieces and crown are the correct domed shape... there should be no discernable straigt edges. and are in proportion. This is usually a good giveaway. The screw heads around the bezel are moulded, not real. Only the avengers have moulded domes instead of screws. Bracelet does not have solid links, most new bracelets also have solid end links. A genuine bracelet will have screwed links, not pins. On some fakes, the two nearest links to the case will be solid, and not articulated. Chronomat models have inappropriate view backs. The only genuine watches with view backs are the Cosmonaute, and the Chronoracer rattrapante. It is possible, but rare to come across a Breitling which has been retro fitted with a non proprietary view back, but these are very few and far between. Most obviously, the majority fakes have quartz movements, not automatic. Fakers have not yet bothered to fake Breitlings cheaper quartz analogue movements, because in general, the quartz analogue models are not as desirable as the automatics.. there are of course exceptions, but I have yet to see them copied.. They have however, faked the digitals, ie, Emergency and Aerospace, but these are so shoddy, the defy belief, and have pushpieces to operate the functions instead of the crown. I have even seen Emergency fakes with lazer pointers, and compasses in the antenna housing. They also have grey and black LCD readouts instead of black and gold, (although a few are now appearing with gold on black.. be very careful) and are Chrome and brass, instead of titanium. With the introduction of the new Emergency Mission, with it's conventional chronograph readout, some may be fooled with the older Emergency fakes... some of these had conventional chronograph readouts. The easy way to tell them apart, is that the fakes have extra corrector buttons on the 6 - 12 side of the case. The genuine model has NO corrector buttons, and will say 'Breitling Certifie Chronometer' on the caseback. The fakes will not. Another blow to authenticity........ I have just seen an Emergency model, with gold on black digital displays. This watch still had incorrect corrector pushpieces, but looked very good. I'm sure it will be only a matter of time before this model is faked convincingly. Yet another good copy.... a Superocean, and a Headwind that now have mechanical movements. These watches are TOO GOOD, and need an expert to tell them from the real thing. Examine them closely, with reference to a catalogue. Check carefully rider tab sizes, printing fonts on the dial, size of breitling wings on the seconds hands, and especially look closely at the markings on the bezel... they have yet to master lazer engraving. The casebacks too will still be the giveaway if you know what they are looking for. Another new copy. The Aerospace is now on the market. Quite a bad copy though, it is in steel instead of titanium, and has corrector pushpiece at 7. Genuine Aerospace models do NOT have pushpieces. Treat any 'special edition' with suspicion, until you have it checked. There are a lot of fakes appearing with Top Gun, Blue Angels, Red Arrows, etc on the dial. To the unwary, this tend to add authenticity. (I have even seen an emergency model with 'Land Rover' on the dial). The Poljot company make a very convincing replica of the 'Blue Angels' montbrillant. A dead giveaway, is the fact that although it says 'Navitimer on the dial, it does not say 'Breitling' It is also missing the subdial at '6', though I have seen one that uses a date subdial instead of a window. This looks good. Size is wrong on all of them though, 39.5mm instead of 42mm. Get yourself an up to date catalog, and check the watch with the picture - they never match exactly, check the dimensions with a digital caliper, and check the weight. The best fakes come from Russia, Italy and Switzerland. These can be very, very good, and would convince most people - but they are expensive - around $300 - $400. One or two even have the same base movement as Breitling - Valjoux /ETA. The rest come from the far east, are easy to identfy as fakes, and can be as cheap as $5.00. Would you buy a Breitling on a street corner for $20? If you would you deserve all you get. Buy your watch from a reputable jeweller or a friend. Neither will try to pass you a fake. Always try to get both boxes and all the paperwork with your watch. Check serial numbers against watch, and make sure that the warranty is perforated. I have seen a fake warranty, but it had no perforations - they are too difficult to copy. Dealers name and address is printed on the fake warranty. Incidentally, a watch without box and papers should be cheaper than one with, and also more difficult to sell later. Poljot is currently producing very good looking Breitling replicas. They can't really be called fake, or counterfiet, because they do not use the Breitling name. Their Navitimer replica however, is very convincing, because it is a fairly high quality watch, and some for the European market, have no cryllic script on the dial, but merely say 'Navitimer' The same goes for the Chronomat model... this merely says 'Chronomat' The easy way to tell these watches from the real thing is to check the subdials. They are at 9 and 3 only. I have once seen one with the sub dial at 6, but this was a date register. A lot of points made here can easily be applied to fakes of other brands. Above all, use your eyes, and common sense. If the deal seems too good to be true, it probably is! If all else fails, have it checked at a dealership. Unlike Rolex, they will not confiscate it, and they SHOULD be able to authenticate it. CAVEAT EMPTOR! Source: http://www.watchuseek.com/cgi-bin/anyboard...amp;gV=0&p=

Posted by: Neo Dec 18 2004, 06:58 AM Overview of Secondary Watch Marketplace As dealers in new and pre-owned high-grade wristwatches, we are often asked: "What is the value of this watch?" Believe it or not, there is no simple answer to this question. The most popular response, of course, is: "It is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it." Another common retort might be to ask whether the watch is being bought or sold, consigned, wholesaled, or retailed. Yet another response, especially when it comes to pre-owned watches, is: "Well, it depends on the condition of the watch in question." Some things that may or may not be obvious, but are worthy of exploration, are these basics. A new or pre-owned watch's value is not a constant -- there are always variables involved, even when it comes to brand-new watches. A watch's value depends on its condition or grade. Even with brand new watches, for example, there is a difference between LNIB (Like New In Box) and NIB (New In Box). It may be that the watch was only worn one time by a prospective customer, but if there's a scratch or a ding, that impacts the value significantly. A watch's value is determined in an unregulated marketplace dominated largely by collectors and dealers. Although retail prices are helpful in terms of indicating value, they are usually calculated to reflect the high costs of operating a retail jewelry store. To that end, it is not unusual for some watches to be marked up as much as 100% over dealer's cost. The same is usually true of large vintage watch dealerships located in major metropolitan areas. Let us first examine the following concept: a watch's value is not constant or consistent. The first thing that comes to mind here is that the value of a watch can change over time. Terms such as supply and demand, economic strength both overseas and in the United States, interest in a particular brand or model, grading, and many other variables might explain why a watch's value might change over time. However, context still has not been provided. That a watch's value is not a constant with respect to the variables just mentioned, presupposes that the value of this watch is being studied over time using the same pricing source. That just doesn't happen. Remember that collecting watches is still a young hobby, and unlike numismatics or fine art, pricing remains a largely subjective matter. There is no such thing as a price index for fine watches. While it is true that certain watches (for example, a Rolex Datejust) can be valued without much difficulty, a problem arises when we try to assign a value to a watch which may be rare or unusual. That is when a dealer's experience in the marketplace comes into play. Unfortunately, most dealers simply do not have the financial resources or the experience to buy and sell high-end watches throughout the world. Some might specialize in one particular brand, but the fact of the matter is that in order to learn the marketplace, a dealer must constantly be involved in all levels of the marketplace. Alas, being that most are typically undercapitalized one-man operations, it is difficult for such dealers to gain extensive experience buying and selling high-end timepieces. Wholesale is a somewhat confusing term as well since watches (both vintage and modern) are traded in an unregulated market. However, a solid definition would include the fact that wholesale transactions take place on a dealer-to-dealer basis. Since dealers are not licensed as such, who is a dealer is often a matter of interpretation. In our opinion, a dealer is considered someone who earns his or her living primarily through the buying and selling of wristwatches and pocket watches. Dealers will typically buy watches strictly for resale at a profit, have a valid resale number (thus allowing them to avoid paying sales tax), and be known to other dealers in the industry through their attendance at watch shows and membership in certain organizations such as the IWJG. In addition, it is generally understood that dealer-to-dealer transactions require immediate payment by cash or check, or terms of less than 30 days. Furthermore, most transactions take place very quickly and often involve multiple purchases. When engaged in a wholesale transaction, dealers generally do not expect to be asked many questions as they would when selling to a retail customer. In other words, wholesale deals are quick and the privileges are few. Wholesale prices refer, by and large, to the known buy price that at least one dealer is willing to pay for select items. That is to say, when a dealer quotes the wholesale value of a watch, he is referring to a dollar amount that he perceives as the buy price of another dealer. Of course, most dealers typically quote a price that is well below the wholesale value, because there is always the possibility there will not be a buyer at the supposed "wholesale price." If this is, in fact, the case, a dealer may find his capital tied up indefinitely in a watch which may be tough to re-sell. Consequently, most dealers look to limit their exposure as much as possible. Retail prices, of course, are essentially the wholesale price with a profit margin factored in. Profit margins vary from dealer to dealer, usually depending on their overhead, which might be on the high end if they have a retail store or somewhat lower if they work from home (as many dealers do). A typical dealer's profit ranges from 25% to 35%, but again, the mark-up from wholesale to retail is unregulated. The retail market is the domain of the collector. Someone who does not make a living buying and selling watches is a retail buyer. Sometimes, a retail buyer might purchase something at just a few percent over what a wholesale buyer might be willing to pay. This is often the result of a dealer's lack of knowledge regarding the rarity or desirability of a given wristwatch. It doesn't happen often, but there are instances where a collector will walk away with an incredible bargain. This writer has seen this happen with his own eyes. Conversely, the retail buyer might pay multiples of what the watch was purchased at by the dealer. Or, the retail buyer might actually purchase a watch for less than what the dealer paid for it, if the dealer needs to move merchandise and is willing to take a small loss. We could work our way through many different scenarios, but the key concept here is that in order to stay in business, dealers must buy at wholesale levels (low), and sell at a profit to retail or wholesale customers (high). Collectors, on the other hand, look to buy watches for their collections at a price which makes sense, but are more motivated by their desire to own a given watch, rather than simply making a profit. Now that we have explored the concept of wholesale and retail values, it is worth discussing how the secondary watch market has evolved over the past several years. Timepieces have clearly emerged as the 21st Century's hottest collectible and we expect this trend to continue over time. The Internet has clearly been a mostly positive factor in this direction. Before the Internet became hugely popular, it was virtually impossible to participate in the hobby without attending watch shows, sometimes in faraway cities. Most collectible watches (and especially the more expensive, desirable pieces) were bought, sold, and traded primarily at regional watch shows sponsored by the NAWCC and IWJG. Many collectors would become disillusioned, however, because while it was exciting to meet other collectors, disappointment set in when they realized that the best watches were bought and sold the night before -- the notorious "dealers' pre-show". Another interesting trend this writer observed was the rapid shift at shows from vintage to modern pre-owned watches, again due in large part to the Internet. When I first started buying and selling fine watches, vintage timepieces were considered far more collectible than modern pre-owned watches -- and much easier to locate as well. Obviously, brand-new and "like new" modern watches were offered for sale at the shows, but one did not see complicated Pateks on the floor very often, and certainly not at the sort of discounts at which they are routinely offered today. However, once watch collectors discovered the ease with which they could trade timepieces via the Internet, the supply of truly rare and collectible vintage watches quickly dried up as prices skyrocketed in the mid-to-late 1990s. Even though many collections were liquidated as collectors decided to take advantage of a strong marketplace, the increased supply of vintage watches was quickly snapped up by a new generation of affluent collectors in their 30s and 40s, no doubt helped by a booming stock market. These new collectors were far more aggressive in their pursuit of vintage watches than their predecessors were. Suddenly, desirable vintage watches were not so plentiful anymore, and nice watches were no longer being sold at shows, but rather on-line. Nowadays, younger watch collectors are finding it much easier (and more fun) to collect modern pre-owned watches. Although modern pre-owned watches from the great houses reflect the high quality, craftsmanship, superb design, and rarity associated with the vintage timepieces of yesteryear, they are far more practical to wear on an everyday basis. (After all, wristwatches are perhaps the only modern collectible which one can actually wear and enjoy -- something you cannot do with a $20 double-eagle.) Another factor in this shift from vintage to modern pre-owned is the emergence of a two-way market for modern pre-owned watches through venues such as eBay. Through the Internet, one can find brand-new or "like new" modern watches offered at dramatic discounts from retail. Consequently, today's collector might own several watches at once, rather than just one. In addition, many collectors prefer temporary ownership of a fine watch, as opposed to long-term ownership. Thanks to the Internet, selling a fine watch is much easier than it was in the past, and with such dramatic discounts, much less expensive as well. It is therefore not uncommon for a collector of modern watches to buy a new or "like new" watch on the Internet, wear it for a short time, and then re-sell it -- often at a minimal loss. The small loss incurred is, in a sense, the cost of ownership. In turn, this two-way marketplace creates a larger supply for dealers. With the supply of vintage watches shrinking, a new generation of collectors has transformed the modern wristwatch into a legitimate collectible in its own right, so much so that certain watches are worth more than their retail prices. And why not? Many people (myself included) consider modern watches to be just as finely made, collectible, and well designed as watches were in the past. Finally, it is worth mentioning that collectors are becoming more knowledgeable about watches from a technical and historical standpoint than ever before. Because today's collectors can go on-line and learn about market values, watch companies, or whatever else they want to know, in a fraction of the time it took their predecessors, we increasingly find discriminating collectors whose knowledge rivals even that of the most established dealers. This obviously levels the playing field to some degree. In some cases, the lines between collector and dealer become even more blurred. Thanks to the Internet, all it takes is a scanner, a computer, and a modem -- and almost anyone can go into the watch business. Although several excellent dealers have entered the business in recent years, it is more important than ever to find one with experience and knowledge which matches your own. As the saying goes: "Buy the dealer before you buy the watch." In conclusion, today's watch shows are much different than they were ten years ago. Vintage watches are tougher to find and modern pre-owned watches are clearly where the action is. This situation is unlikely to change. On a positive note though, modern watches are also more sophisticated and legitimately collectible than ever before. As always, there are plenty of old friends and clients whom I look forward to reconnecting with at shows, and many new faces as well. This is a good thing, of course, as any hobby needs new blood. Yes, the Internet has changed the watch collecting hobby forever, but in a good way. I am seeing more collectors entering the hobby than in the past, and a greater appreciation of fine watches in general. While I will miss the "good old days" when I would go to a show and see 25 rare vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches for sale, there is something to be said for the Internet, which has allowed me to meet and communicate with many more collectors than in the past. And although watch shows may be less relevant than they once were -- especially now that air travel is no longer as safe or convenient as it once was -- they are still a great way to meet other collectors or dealers and I highly recommend attending a few, if you can. You may not find a great wholesale deal, or the rarest vintage Patek Philippe, but you may find something even more important: knowledge, a new friend, and a greater appreciation for this enjoyable and exceptional hobby. Source: http://www.demesy.com/articles/marketplace_overview.html

Posted by: Neo Dec 17 2004, 05:38 AM N E W M o d e l – Dunhill Citytamer Dec 16, 2004 A new addition to Dunhill’s mechanical collection of timepieces is the Citytamer which has a unique, horizontally-split, two-part case, which is held together by top-loading screws. Movement is a Swiss ETA automatic. The guilloche dial is available in off white or black, each with arrow hands and date aperture at three o'clock The case is available in 18kt rose and white gold. The visible screws are 18kt white gold. It is water resistant to 30 meters. MSRP is $9,300. Courtesy Timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 17 2004, 02:09 PM The passion of DeWitt Claiming to be the fifth generation descended from Napoleon’s brother Jérôme, Jérôme de Witt has also inherited the family’s passion for complicated timepieces. Consequently, his quest for his recently formed company is to create timepieces for the elite – passionate collectors who seek perfection in the unique. Having acquired a magnificent property in Vandoeuvres, Geneva, that had already been transformed into a watchmaking workshop, purchased a part share in a dial manufacturer with two other leading watch manufacturers in Geneva and an established workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Jérôme de Witt launched his own brand last year at BaselWorld. de Witt’s pursuit of perfection in complications is aided by a team of highly experienced master watchmakers who assemble each and every piece from start to finish, with the watch actually signed by them as a guarantee of quality. The phrase ‘Manufacturée à Vandoeuvres’ is engraved on the timepiece. Using Calibres of renown such as the LUC by Chopard or the Venus 185 to name but two, the watchmakers then add complications to give the watches their personalized DeWitt touch. For example, the perpetual calendar is equipped with a LUC movement and then enhanced by the addition of a bi-retrograde module with a retrograde date at 3 o’clock and a retrograde day at 9 o’clock. Another innovation is the chronograph with its flyback hand and a lifting lever. PERPETUAL CALENDAR BI-RETROGRADE From the New Emotion collection, this watch is in white gold (43 mm) and is equipped with a DW97mechanical lever movement. Self-winding, 58-hour power reserve, retrograde date at 3 o’clock, retrograde day at 9 o’clock, month and year at 12 o’clock, moon phase at 6 o’clock. White gold dial with ‘chocolate’ sun pattern and DeWitt-style sword-shaped hands, sapphire crystals front and back, water-resistant to 30 metres. NEW EMOTION TOURBILLON 18 carat white gold case (43 mm) equipped with a mechanical lever hand-wound movement DW 80. Dial replaced by a hand-turned bridge with ‘Petit Panier’ decoration in blue, ‘remontage mystérieux’ and ‘dents de loup’ wheel decoration, 110-hour power reserve, 21,600 v.p.h., sapphire crystals front and back, water-resistant to 30 metres. New Emotion and New Age This year, DeWitt’s vision is ‘to create a watch making brand issued of aristocratic tradition and manufactured with exceptional passion and perfection’. The two collections designed to achieve this goal are the New Emotion and the New Age. The New Emotion collection comprises a Perpetual Calendar Bi-Retrograde in white gold, a Retrograde Second in red gold, Dual Time Zone GMT in red gold, a Chronograph in red gold and a tourbillon in either white or red gold. The watches are ‘outstanding from its case design to the choice of materials.’ The cases are massive in volume and the dials are original in concept, delicately worked and highly graphic. The New Age collection comprises a Regulator in stainless steel, a Chronograph in white gold or stainless steel and a Small Second in stainless steel. These watches are sensual in their design, yet classical because of their pure shapes. These technical characteristics are all housed in well-designed, original and powerful watchcases – the smallest being 40 mm and the largest 43 mm. Since the beginning of its deliveries at the end of 2003, DeWitt has produced 250 watches and anticipates a further 500 pieces this year. The watches are available in their boutique in Geneva and through a point of sale in Singapore. Other counties such as USA, Japan and the rest of Europe are being studied now. By making each watch in the two collections a Limited Edition of either just 50 or 100 pieces with prices ranging from 8,500 to 24,200 Swiss francs, plus 197,400 Swiss francs for the troubillon, the DeWitt brand ensures that only a few people in the world will be wearing these highly original complications. NEW AGE REGULATOR Stainless steel case (48.5 x 40 mm) equipped with a self-winding mechanical lever movement DW 50. Minutes, hours at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 6 o’clock, 28,800 v.p.h., water-resistant to 30 metres. NEW AGE CHRONOGRAPH 18 carat white gold case equipped with a self-winding mechanical lever movement DW 40. Minute counter at 3 o’clock, hour counter at 6 o’clock, seconds counter at 90. Website: http://www.dewitt.ch Courtesy Timezone

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:03 PM The Radiomir Black Seal® by Panerai December 11, 2004 Officine Panerai began making wristwatches in the 1930s and the Radiomir Black Seal takes its stylistic form from the 1938 watch that was created for the Royal Italian Navy. Notable for their robustness and reliability, the Radiomir models were made available to watch enthusiasts in the 1990s and have reached cult status. The Black Seal is a 45 mm ‘time only’ watch with hours, minutes and small seconds at 9 o’clock. Made from a steel alloy of the highest quality, the dial has an unusual 3-dimensional appearance which is achieved by the superimposition of two separate discs: the upper one is black with perforated numerals and hour markers and the lower one is coated with Super Luminova® making the dial visible in the dark. RADIOMIR BLACK SEAL® Stainless steel watch equipped with a hand-wound Panerai OP X1 Calibre movement (COSC). Black dial with Arabic numerals, baton hour markers and luminous baton hands, sapphire crystal front and back, 56-hour power reserve, leather strap with hypo-allergenic lining, personalized screw-down crown and buckle, water-resistant to 100 metres. Limited Edition of 1,500 pieces for 2004. Source: http://www.panerai.com Courtesey europastar Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:10 PM The audacious move of Delaneau A few short months ago, Delaneau relocated from the airport area to the calm of Geneva’s old town – and not just anywhere, but alongside the august edifice of the St. Pierre Cathedral. The physical move also coincided with Delaneau’s move into the rarefied air of the mechanical watch – and not just any watch, but the technically complex tourbillon. November 29, 2004, by D. Malcolm Lakin Delaneau is a relatively small company, too big to be considered an artisan brand, yet too small to be a member of the league of major Swiss manufacturers. Consequently, the brand created its own niche whereby outlandish designs, created from noble metals and exquisite precious stones, were the standard. To complete the timepieces only the finest goldsmiths and stone-setters were used, which by definition means that the series of watches are small and, in many cases, unique pieces. THE SUN 18 carat white gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case with polished stirrup attachment set with 58 brilliant cut diamonds (0.84 carats), diamond cabochon at each end (0.29 carats) and a crown set with a diamond cabochon (0.10 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, guilloché bottom plate with ‘Clou de Paris’ decoration, tourbillon bridge set with 24 brilliant cut diamonds (0.18 carats), guilloché blue mother-of-pearl dial with ‘Sun’ decoration, leather strap with white gold folding clasp. LEAVES AND RED BERRIES 18 carat red gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case, with polished stirrup attachment embellished with a ruby cabochon at each end (0.46 carats) and crown set with a ruby cabochon (0.16 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, guilloché bottom plate with ‘Sun’ decoration, tourbillon bridge with ‘Leaf’ engraving, mother-of-pearl dial with ‘Leaf’ and ruby ‘Berries’ engraving, leather strap with red gold folding clasp. IRIS 18 carat white gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case with polished stirrup attachment, embellished with a diamond cabochon at each end (0.29 carats) and a crown set with a diamond cabochon (0.10 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, with guilloché bottom plate with ‘Sun’ decoration, tourbillon bridge set with 24 brilliant cut diamonds (0.18 carats). Hard cloisonné enamel dial engraved with Iris design, leather strap with white gold folding clasp. THE SUN AND THE EAGLE 18 carat red gold polished Dôme Tourbillon case with polished stirrup attachment embellished with a diamond cabochon at each end (0.29 carats) and a crown set with a diamond cabochon (0.10 carats). Claret DEL 97 tourbillon movement, guilloché bottom plate with Clou de Paris decoration, tourbillon bridge with miniature ‘Eagle’ engraving, hard cloisonné enamel dial with engraving and ‘Sun’ décor, leather strap with red gold folding clasp. Designed by a woman for women “Delaneau is a brand for women,” explains Cristina Thévenaz, the brand’s Creative Director. “So when we decided to create a tourbillon, it wasn’t simply a question of taking the smallest tourbillon we could find and then placing it in a case embellished with precious stones. It had to be something uniquely feminine with a visual appearance as delicate as the tourbillon itself.” “I’m not a watchmaker, I’m a designer,” Thévenaz continues, “and the ideas that I had for the tourbillon meant that I had to sit with someone who could explain what could or couldn’t be done – and in some instances what technical features could be changed or adapted to achieve the look I wanted. The result was that I spent a lot of time with Christophe Claret in order to get the project underway. Since I was creating a tourbillion for women, it also necessitated foreseeing space for the decoration. In this case I wanted the plate of the watch to be uncluttered in order to achieve the visual effects I was looking for, which included techniques such as enamelling, engraving and elaborate stone-setting.” The tourbillons have an unusually shaped dec-orated dial that appears to be floating above the movement since it is freed from the insides of the case. In order to counterbalance the cut-away dial, a specially designed tourbillon bridge, suitable for decorating, has been conceived. RINGS OF TIME AND MATTER – in 18 carat gold set with various precious stones and equipped with quartz movements. Positive reaction The results are as surprising as they are pleasing. The first series of 12 tourbillons is now sold and the brand is about to prepare a second series. Asked if the tourbillon was the end of Delaneau’s foray into the world of the mechanical watch, Cristina Thévenaz offered a brief catalogue of a woman’s needs based on both her biological constitution and her emotional needs. The horological results will be there for all to see in the not too distant future, but you can rest assured that the moon will be playing an important role. Given the quality of the Claret movements and the exquisite aesthetics of Delaneau’s latest de luxe collections, it may well be worth popping into the neighbouring cathedral to ask for some divine help in obtaining one of these mechanical marvels. Courtesy europastar Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:17 PM European Aviation Watch of the Year December 15, 2004 In the bar of the Aero Club de France in Paris, aeronautic representatives gathered last week for the first European Aviation Watch of the Year Trophy. In addition ot the host country, France and its pilot magazine Volez, the editors from the German Flieger magazine and British Aerospace International, defined the criteria for the pilot watches and an international jury, analysed, scored and voted. The clear winner was the Fortis Flieger Chronograph. Peter Peter, Fortis’ CEO, receives the award from the head of the jury Mrs. Dorine Bourneton. The Trophy The winner of the European Aviation Watch of the Year 2004: Fortis Flieger Chronograph. Source: Fortis Press Release Courtesy europastar Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:20 PM Krieger Ghost Clear Aluminum Dec 15, 2004 Mr. Ira Krieger, President of Krieger Watch, which is based in Miami Beach, has forwarded to TimeZone this new ad which will appear in major trade publications in February of 2005. The clear aluminum watch casing is completely clear, like glass. The domed sapphire crystal on the top and a sapphire crystal on the back provide a display of the ETA caliber 6497 (nee UNITAS). The dial has large Arabic numbers. A deployment buckle with an easily interchangeable band is included. The case measures 52mm. Clear aluminum is a very expensive material, and is extremely hard to work with. The manufacturing process take more 60 days just to make the clear aluminum material and 60-90 days and several diamond tools, just to manufacture each individual case. It takes more than 20 steps of mechanical, chemical polishing, drilling, stamping and assembling before the watch takes final shape. Because of this, only 10 cases can be made per day. And the result is that it takes 5-6 months to make each clear aluminum watch. The watch is made in Switzerland. The piece will be available for sale in February. A substantial waiting list is pending and the firm expect the production to sell out quickly. Courtesy timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 06:25 PM N E W M o d e l – Tiffany Atlas Hunter Automatic Dec 15, 2004 The latest from the Atlas collection is the Hunter. Movement is an automatic, base ETA, with COSC certification as a chronometer. The case, in 18kt yellow gold, measures 39mm. The crystal is sapphire. It comes with a black alligator strap. MSRP is $6,500. Courtesy timezone Posted by: dlgates Dec 15 2004, 07:40 PM Neo, I know I'm way behind in reading your voluminous and always exciting thread, but just had to comment that the story about Jean Dunand is fascinating! A unique tourbillon design just because of the artistic and technological challenge--now everyone who reads this should understand what "Haute Horologie" really means! Keep up the good work and the wonderful resources you are providing to us all.

Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 05:59 PM The revelation of a brand December 14, 2004 Emile Péquignet, founder and ingenious creator of the brand based in Morteau, has just handed over management to a new team, a team that will develop the brand while conserving its genetic code… The story of a metamorphosis. As he prepared for retirement, Emile Péquignet could have transmitted his brand, savoir-faire and exceptional collections to a large enterprise, even a watch group. However, his preferance was that it should remain independent. As it happened, another person from Morteau and also a watch lover, Didier Leibundgut, stepped up and decided to continue the work of this creator. Irresistible univers of Watch and Jewellery Caméléone-interchangeable-150 availables straps Sorelle and Caméléone-interchangeable for Sorella-interchangeable-150 availables straps Massaï watch and jewellery Moorea Quartz Chronograph Didier Leibundgut intends to develop the brand based on its existing lines. Above all, however, he wants to maintain and even strengthen Péquignet’s identity, its genetic code, so to speak. “What exists is already so rich. Its products generate such a magic that they must be continued… You can be sure that we are going to develop these icons,” insists the new owner. Founded 30 years ago, Péquignet is now undergoing a metamorphosis, a transformation that is in harmony with its past. Didier Leibunbdgut likes to talk about the brand’s genes, but what are they exactlyi Let’s say first of all that they possess an essentially feminine identity, a femininity that is accompanied by an undeniable reputation for creativity. Didn’t the Péquignet collections win the ‘Cadran d’or’ trophy for their designs not less than five timesi Last but not least, the brand has an exemplary savoir-faire and high levels of quality and reliability. The proof can be seen in the return rate for its products, which is less than 1.5% under their three-year guarantee. Who else can claim this? In this respect, too, each watch has an individual quality control number. “This is quite normal. Here, we have always sought excellence in excellence,” proudly explains Leibunbgut in the Morteau headquarters. This is also where the Swiss movements for the watches are assembled. The brand’s principal collections, however, are assembled in Switzerland. In a word, Péquignet represents a successful marriage between Swiss Made and the French Touch. What this means is that this type of Haute Couture watchmaking places these luxury objects within the reach of everyone, or nearly everyone. The entry level price of each watch collection is around ¤1000. For Didier Leibundgut, who says he hates the elitism due to money, there is no question of changing the brand’s positioning. In the future, he says, Péquignet will evolve based on its icons, beginning with its famous family of interchangeable ladies’ timepieces. According to the mood and desires of the woman who wears them, the ‘Caméléone’, ‘Sorella’, and ‘Lady’ models can interchange their bracelets, which are available in a seemingly limitless array of materials and colours. To each, her own style. The Caméléone, inspired by the Art Déco period is light and timeless. The urban and active woman is attracted to the youthful and dynamic Sorella collection. The larger, stone-set Lady timepiece, with its more distinctive lines, falls into the Haute Couture class. Now added to this ‘interchangeable’ category, are the soft curves and elongated lines of the ‘Massaï’ collection, whose elegance admirably accentuates the feminine wrist. The Massaï also contains a collection of bold and youthful jewellery. Péquignet remains more than ever faithful to the Mooréa, which has made its reputation and success, and which is available in ladies’ and men’s versions. For the latter, the chronographs, despite their large size, are still just as elegant as before. To emphasize even more the value of its jewels, Péquignet has created a new display, which will soon occupy a place of honour at the brand’s loyal retailers. You can bet that, under these conditions, others will soon follow. And this is good. While Péquignet is very present in France, Portugal, Belgium, Holland, Luxembourg and the Middle East, it remains rather unknown in countries such as Germany, England, Italy, the United States, China and Asia in general. The wonderful journey begun by this small regional enterprise, independent from the large groups, an enterprise that knows so well how to translate beauty into watchmaking, will continue to unfold. Source: http://www.emile-pequignet.com Courtesy europastar

Posted by: Neo Dec 13 2004, 10:45 PM N E W B r a n d - Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Giuliano Mazzuoli is an Italian designer, best known for his work with leather goods and pens. His work is featured at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. His newest design is a watch. Measuring 45mm in a stainless steel case, the Manometro has an automatic ETA caliber 2824-2 movement with Cotes de Geneve decoration. The crystal is sapphire and it is water resistant to 50 meters. MSRP is 2,400 Euros. Courtesy Timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 13 2004, 11:03 PM N E W M o d e l – Archimede Arcadia December 13, 2004 Based in Pforzheim, Germany, Archimede is the new consumer watch brand from long-time German private-label watchmaker Weikelmann & Co. The Arcadia collection is their latest addition. The case, in polished stainless steel, measures 42mm. The dial has hand-applied Arabic numerals, faceted hands and is available in black or silvered versions. Movement is the automatic ETA caliber 2824-2. The Arcadia has a sapphire crystal, a display back and is water resistant to 50 meters. MSRP is $395. Courtesy Timezone Posted by: rschultes Dec 14 2004, 03:00 PM Here is a link for all Omega Speedmaster lovers - it is a great reference of casebacks and other interesting stuff - enjoy! http://home.xnet.com/~cmaddox/moonwatch_ca...20retained%20an Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 05:39 PM “Foto” by Opex December 14, 2004 The Opex man is sober, elegant and simple. This collection highlights sober materials, simple shapes, not forgetting a few hints of originality. Sport Classic, this quartz watch is comfortable and discreetly elegant with its striped black or brown leather strap, specially cut to sit perfectly with the case contours. Photo: "Foto" men’s watch with striped black leather bracelet (ref. 1250D1) Source: Emotionfrance.com Press Release Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 05:49 PM JEAN DUNAND - A new star in orbit Everything began as a somewhat crazy dream and a devouring passion. The dreami To make a tourbillon that would rotate around its dial. The passioni To draw inspiration from the wonderfully creative Art Déco period to give a new look to the art of timekeeping. Two men shared this dream and this passion, and created a new star in the high orbit of Haute Horlogerie called Jean Dunand! It is a name that won’t soon be forgotten. December 13, 2004, by Pierre Maillard The day that I received a telephone call requesting a meeting “regarding an entirely new brand in the haut de gamme sector,” I could not help but feel a little sceptical. Oh, another one, I thought to myself. Hadn’t the mad rush upmarket by Swiss watchmakers during the last few years finally come to an endi Weren’t there enough brands juggling for space at the top of the pyramidi Hadn’t the recent craze for diamond-set watches, followed by the tourbillon folly of this year, left enough ‘victims’ in their wake. So, it was in this state of mind, that I agreed to meet with Thierry Oulevay. The man was already familiar to me as one of the founders of the brand Bovet and I appreciated the high quality of work he had done while there, but, after he left Bovet, I had no news of him. He came to my office at the scheduled time and, during our long conversation, detailed his projects and showed me a few examples of his new watches. After he left, I had to admit that my doubts about this new brand were swept away. Now I am sure that the launch of Jean Dunand will be immediately admired for its unprecedented qualities. Beginning with the dream… Like in many inspiring stories, everything begins with a dream. In this case, the dreamer is not just anybody, but Christophe Claret. A relatively quiet and unassuming man standing in contrast to the cacophony of egos present in the realm of Haute Horlogerie, Claret is the driving force behind a number of major innovations in prestige Swiss timekeeping. With his team of 60 watchmakers and technicians, he provides timepieces for numerous clients that are amongst the most renowned in the industry. The creation, production and finishing of different movements such as Westminster minute repeaters, tourbillons, tourbillon minute repeaters with flyback chronographs or musical watches, hold no secrets for him. To his talent can be added a grain of folly, a combination that often makes the difference in this creative domain. An example is the recent Opus IV, made for Harry Winston, which combines a tourbillon and minute repeater on one face, and a large lunar phase indicator with date on the other, the two faces with hours and minutes (hand-fitting on each face of the watch which is articulated, perfectly symmetrical and designed to be worn showing either face). Dress it all up with dazzling diamonds and you know it was not created by just anybody. Getting back to his dream… this night, Christophe Claret tosses and turns, having a really wild dream – to design and build a 60-second flying tourbillon whose cage itself makes a complete rotation around the centre of the watch in one hour. Whoever would conceive a crazy idea like that!! How to make the barrel turn around the centre of a movementi As the sun begins to rise, Claret takes a pencil in hand and starts drawing his dream. He certainly has his work cut out. To make the tourbillon’s cage rotate, the barrel must necessarily rotate as well, since this is the energy source. So, how can the barrel transmit its energy in a constant manner while rotating around a fixed centre on a platei After a few hours of deep thought, the solution jumps out at him. The tourbillon and the barrel can be sandwiched together in a large cage that rotates around the centre. But doesn’t this large cage (not to be confused with the small cage of the tourbillon) have to be able to rotate in both directions, clockwise and anticlockwise, one way for the tourbillon’s orbital rotation and the opposite way to wind it and set the timei The solutioni A single ball bearing with two separate directional rotations. The ball bearing makes up the central axis of the movement. It is connected to the base plate, which remains fixed to the back of the case and allows the upper plate of the sandwich to turn in both directions. Simplei Yes, on paper. However, in reality, there are a number of non-trivial problems. 3/4 view of the watch highlighting the central part of the dial in 18 carat gold with ‘sapin’ (pine) guilloche and the satin-finished circular exterior. The flange is fixed to the case, thus the movement/dial turns once every hour taking with it the flying tourbillion. View of the caseback with its ‘sapin’ guilloche, the moon phases with its rapid corrector and the winding crown which is integrated into the caseback. The patented Io 200 Christophe Claret movement made exclusively for Jean Dunand with a view of the tourbillon and the going barrel. Note the cutting away of the upper plate and the art-deco-inspired ‘Palm tree’ decoration. An exceptional movement for a prestige timepiece, perfectlty symetric due to the absence of a crown at 9 o’clock. A veritable ‘moving tableau’: an art-deco dial resulting from research into the various aspects of graphic design, colour and materials. The problems The first problem is how to transmit the driving force of the barrel to the tourbillon, as the barrel itself rotates. To solve this problem, Christophe Claret comes up with the idea of a centre wheel fixed to the case, with internal toothing that transmits the ‘information’ from the barrel to the tourbillon cage, which itself acts as a regulator (because the tourbillon makes a revolution in one minute). In doing so, Christophe Claret discovers an unexpected advantage. Since the energy is transmitted by the ball bearing, there is no need for a traditional gear train between the barrel and the cage. The result is a better performance due to the extreme precision of the ball bearing since there is no rubbing of the centre wheel’s axis. Besides the better performance, there are other advantages: great amplitude stability because there are no variations due to different positions; improvement in the watch’s operation by the creation of a double tourbillon effect. “The basic idea was to make something a little bit crazy,” explains Christophe Claret, “but, the improvement in terms of precision is a wonderful and surprising plus!” Another problem, and not the least, which is also inherent in the system, is how to transmit the winding energy to the barrel. It is obvious that a normal winding stem, thus one that is fixed, is totally incompatible with an upper plate that turns! So, how can Claret resolve this major problem. We cannot give away the entire solution of the problem. And yet, at the risk of frustrating you and in agreement with the ingenious creator, we keep the secret of this fabulous patented movement intact … but having seen it with my own eyes, I can assure you that it works! Prestige poetry The name of the movement is Io 200, where ‘Io’ refers to a moon of Jupiter discovered by Galileo in 1610, whose size is nearly the same as a planet, while the ‘200’ is short for 2000, the year that the system was designed. Besides its eminently technical appearance and its intrinsic beauty (which comes from its apparent simplicity and its elegant construction), the Io 200 is a piece of prestige poetry. And it’s here that Thierry Oulevay returns to the story. After having solidified his ‘dream’ in the form of actual plans, Christophe Claret proposed it to various leading brands for whom he creates. “Too crazy,” “too extravagant,” “it will never work” were the responses he got. Discouraged, he put his wonderful dream in a drawer. Then one day, Thierry Oulevay called him. The two men were immediately on the same wavelength. With his vast experience in the haut de gamme watch sector, and his passion for Art Déco, Oulevay wanted to create a niche watch brand, a brand that would create exceptional and even unique products that would draw inspiration from the styles of the 1920s and 1930s to make contemporary timepieces. Sharing his passion and ideas, Christophe Claret straight away accepted to become his partner in the venture. Who is Jean Dunandi So, the brand Jean Dunand was born, under the label of the new enterprise WPW SA (for World Première Watchmaking). Its first model would be the Tourbillon Orbital. Why the name Jean Dunandi? This creator of Swiss origin (1877 – 1942) was one of the leading representatives of the Art Déco era. Pioneer in brassware and lacquer from 1909, Dunand designed and produced numerous vases, furniture and various decorative panels and other items. Also notably, he contributed to the décor of the large cruise ships, such as the Ile de France (1928), the Atlantique (1931) and the famous Normandie (1935). He also created jewellery and accessories. Taking a name from outside the watch sector seemed appropriate for a brand that wanted to be both innovative in the domain of the complicated timekeeper and creative in drawing on an intensively creative past for its decorative contemporary ideas. In this way, it’s also a homage to a man and his work which Thierry Oulevay and Christophe Claret pledge enormous respect and admiration. The Tourbillon Orbital seems to be the ideal canvas for this type of ornamental research since it offers, by the rotation of its dial, a real moving tableau. Each watch will be truly unique. The two men are exploring new materials, such as dials made of ornamental stones, fossilized caviar and anaconda. Their forays into art and form take them into lacquering, enamelling, engraving, and geometric shapes and chromatic combinations. “Each piece must be considered as a work of art,” explains Thierry Oulevay, “whether we are talking about its exterior appearance, its movement, or the extremely rigorous and strictly personalized attention we bring to the finishing.” Only the beginning The Tourbillon Orbital is the first step. Each new movement that the Jean Dunand brand introduces will have a world’s first in terms of technique. This might mean a completely new calibre or an additional complication in the same character. The two partners have announced that for 2005, they will present a Cathedral Minute Repeater in a form case equipped with a complication that they qualify as “absolutely unique in its category and totally new, even revolutionary.” Given the high art of this Haute Horlogerie, what do these ‘unique pieces’ costi Well, as you might guess, Jean Dunand timepieces are not for everyone. Entry-level prices start around 250,000 euros and above to acquire one of these ‘masterpieces’, entirely manufactured in the Claret workshops, the first of which are now seeing the light of day. If, at first glance, the price might seem rather exorbitant for a new brand, it nevertheless is justified in light of the research that has gone into the movement, its rich decoration and its totally original appearance. As a single example, the development of the microscopic and ultra-technological axis and ball bearing system has been so expensive that each piece costs several thousand euros. Given the encouraging response, and knowing that the first models have already been reserved, the two men are confident in their new adventure and estimate they can produce about one hundred watches over the next two years. We can also suppose that Jean Dunand will make a striking entrance into the high orbit of Haute Horlogerie. WPW (World Première Watchmaking) SA Courtesy europastar Posted by: Neo Dec 15 2004, 05:53 PM Milleret - Masters of their discipline December 13, 2004 Over four decades of remarkable craftsmanship in fine diamonds and jewellery have contributed to Milleret’s reputation. Dedicated to the highest values of their centuries old craft, Milleret watches benefit from the unrivalled experience and skills of Swiss craftsmen in the Vallée de Joux, the very heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking industry. Milleret’s timepieces are created with the latest technology, but the ultimate tools are the skilled hands of the brand’s accomplished designers, stone-setters and polishers. These artists work endlessly to capture a watch design that expresses originality and offers the wearer a unique personality. MILLERET NEW OVAL Beautifully curved stainless steel case with various executions of diamond setting in Top Wesselton quality. The model is available in 2 sizes, with satin strap, Alligator strap or metal bracelet. A wide choice of dials are at your disposal. Source: http://www.milleret.ch Courtesy europastar

Posted by: Neo Dec 13 2004, 10:35 PM TAG HEUER PRESS RELEASE Sparkling tennis star Maria Sharapova becomes TAG Heuer new worldwide “sport and glamour” ambassador December 13, 2004 TAG Heuer, the Swiss sports watch and chronograph brand and the fourth largest luxury brand in the world watch market, is proud to announce that the young and charismatic tennis champion Maria Sharapova becomes its newest brand female ambassador. As the new star of world tennis and, at only 17-years-old, already the winner of 2004 Wimbledon and WTA year-end championships, Maria Sharapova has signed a long-term ambassador agreement with the Swiss watchmaking brand, covering product development, advertising, public relations and merchandising. "I am ecstatic," says Maria Sharapova, the 17-years-old Russian tennis star, and the third youngest Wimbledon Champion in WTA history. "To represent a brand as legendary as TAG Heuer is a great honour. TAG Heuer has been teaming with the greatest champions in the history of sports, renowned athletes like Carl Lewis, Ayrton Senna, or nowadays Tiger Woods, and famous teams like Ferrari and McLaren. To me, TAG Heuer is the most prestigious luxury partner I can dream of, as legendary and glamorous as the individuals and teams with which it is so closely related, and yet at the same time ultra-fashionable and feminine. It's a perfect fit for me, as I love high tech, glamour and winning. I look forward to building a strong relationship with TAG Heuer in the coming years." “In just two seasons Maria Sharapova has made her mark on the WTA pro tennis circuit, quickly advancing to the number 4 in the 2004 singles WTA rankings, and winning two of the most famous tournaments in tennis," says Jean-Christophe Babin, TAG Heuer’s President and Chief Executive Officer. "Off the court, her beauty and grace have romanced the fashion world, with profiles in leading fashion magazines, and the launch of her own perfume. She is truly a phenomenon. Determined, passionate and audacious, she has shown extraordinary character in taking on the best players in professional tennis and winning. At the same time she is graceful and extraordinarily feminine. Maria Sharapova works hard to be the best she can be, yet remains true to the joy and passion she feels for the game. Nobody in the world of sports better than Maria embodies the fusion of sport with glamour, and therefore TAG Heuer core positioning”. “She's the perfect TAG Heuer Ambassador, an ideal representative of the brand's core values of passion, prestige and performance, which have driven the TAG Heuer brand in its pursuit of perfection for 145 years. We are very excited that she is joining the TAG Heuer Team, and she will go a long way toward reinforcing the brand's profile in the professional tennis world, which goes back to our ’Inner Strength’ campaign in the 1990s, when Boris Becker and Monica Seles were TAG Heuer Ambassadors." Mr Babin concludes. TAG Heuer, the benchmark in prestigious sports watches and chronographs since 1860, currently ranks as the fourth luxury brand in the world watch market. The Swiss watchmaking legend draws from its active engagement in the world of sports to create the most accurate measuring instruments and sports-inspired timepieces ever made. From the Olympic Games in the 1920s to its new role as official timekeeper and chronograph for the legendary Indy 500 and IRL championship, TAG Heuer has maintained a constant quest for innovation and excellence, pursuing the summit of performance and prestige. This is reflected in its partnerships with Team McLaren Mercedes in Formula 1 racing; with Tiger Woods and Ian Poulter at the highest levels of international golf, Sébastien Bourdais as Champcar world champion, and with Kimi Raïkkönen at the top of Formula 1. With Maria Sharapova, TAG Heuer more than ever stands for “Sport and Glamour”. Source: TAG Heuer Press Release Courtesy Europastar

"Swiss Made" - A general overview Watches, clocks and alarm clocks manufactured in Switzerland bear the designation "Swiss made" (or its abbreviation "Swiss") as well as the logo of the producer or distributor. This label ("place of origin" in legal terms) enjoys a solid reputation throughout the world. And globalization of trade has done nothing to diminish its importance. On the contrary, the modern consumer is looking for a maximum of information when he or she goes shopping for a new timepiece. What lies behind this reputation ? What does a label like this mean for the consumer ? "Swiss made" embodies a concept of quality that has been forged over the years. It includes the technical quality of watches (accuracy, reliability, water-resistance and shock-resistance), as well as their aesthetic quality (elegance and originality of design). It covers both traditional manufacturing and new technologies (micro-electronics). The Swiss are not the only watchmakers to manufacture high-quality timepieces and are consequently faced with strong competition. However, thanks to their unique infrastructure and to their know-how and spirit of innovation, they have succeeded in maintaining their leading position. The intrinsic value of the "Swiss made" label, therefore, is the result of considerable efforts on the part of watchmaking companies, who are ultimately responsible for maintaining its reputation. While prestigious brand names have thrived, they have never relegated the "Swiss made" label to a secondary place. The brand names and "Swiss made" have always worked together in an alliance that provides the consumer with the best of guarantees. It is hardly surprising that this asset whets the appetite of counterfeiters. "Swiss made" has to be constantly protected on every market. Providing this protection is one of the principal tasks of the FH which conducts an on-going battle through legal and administrative channels to thwart anyone abusing the "Swiss" name. The weapons used in this battle are the laws of each of the countries concerned, backed by international agreements (bi-lateral treaties signed by Switzerland with several European countries and multi-lateral conventions drawn up by the World Intellectual Property Organization and by the World Trade Organization - TRIPS agreement -). Recognizing that it must set the example, Switzerland has already reinforced the legal instruments at its disposal. The new law on "the protection of brand names and place of origin", passed on 28 August 1992, introduced more severe punishments. The Swiss customs authorities, for their part, keep a vigilant eye on all imports, exports and merchandise in transit. Moreover, a law "regulating the use of the name 'Swiss' for watches" sets out the minimum conditions that have to be fulfilled before a watch merits the "Swiss made" label. This law is based on a concept according to which Swiss quality depends on the amount of work actually carried out on a watch in Switzerland, even if some foreign components are used in it. It therefore requires that the assembly work on the movement (the motor of the watch) and on the watch itself (fitting the movement with the dial, hands and the various parts of the case) should be carried out in Switzerland, along with the final testing of the movement. It also requires that at least 50% of the components of the movement should be manufactured in Switzerland. Certain regions in Switzerland have their own "place of origin" labels. One of the most renowned is "Genève", which identifies top-quality timepieces made in the city and canton of Geneva. Like "Swiss made", this label is very popular with counterfeiters and therefore benefits from continuous protection within the framework of the FH's anti-counterfeiting programme. The Swiss watch industry is very active in safeguarding the integrity of "Swiss made" and its other regional labels of quality. The vigilant consumer can also play an effective supporting role. By choosing reputable sales points and not being tempted by deals that are as dubious as they are outlandish, he or she will help to thwart counterfeiters, protect his or her own interests and contribute to the defence of fair trading. The FH and its regional representatives will be happy to provide further information on this subject. Conditions for use A Swiss watch Only when it is Swiss, may a watch carry the indications "Swiss made" or "Swiss", or any other expression containing the word "Swiss" or its translation, on the outside. According to Section 1a OSM, a watch is considered to be Swiss if: its movement is Swiss; its movement is cased up in Switzerland; and the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland.. As we have seen, to be Swiss, a watch must use a Swiss movement. According to Section 2 OSM, a movement is considered to be Swiss if:it has been assembled in Switzerland; it has been inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland; and the components of Swiss manufacture account for at least 50 percent of the total value, without taking into account the cost of assembly. If the movement fulfills these conditions, but the watch is not assembled in Switzerland, the "Swiss" indication may be affixed to one of the components of the movement. On the outside of the watch, may then only appear the "mouvement suisse" or "Swiss movement" indication. Section 3 § 3 OSM requires that the word "movement" appear in full, and be written in the same type-face, of identical size and colour, as the word "Swiss". The left picture represents the right display. Material extent of the use of the word "Swiss" The word "use" is understood in a broad sense: it not only covers the application of the above-mentioned designation to the watch, but also, according to Section 3 § 5 OSM:the sale, offering for sale or putting into circulation of watches bearing such an indication; the application of this designation to signs, advertisements, prospectus, invoices, letters or commercial papers. Particular cases Wristlet The "Swiss made" indication may only appear on a wristlet if it is of Swiss manufacture and if the watch is also Swiss. A wristlet is considered to be Swiss if it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland and if 50 percent of the production costs originate in Switzerland. When a Swiss wristlet is attached to a watch manufactured abroad, it may only bear a reference to the word "Swiss" if this designation clearly shows that only the wristlet is of Swiss manufacture (for example, "Swiss wristlet"). Case The "Swiss case" indication on a watch case betokens that the case is of Swiss manufacture. A case is considered to be Swiss if: [*]it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland (stamping, turning, or polishing); [*]it has been assembled and inspected in Switzerland; and [*]over 50 percent of the manufacturing costs (excluding the value of the material) are due to operations carried out in Switzerland. When the "Swiss case" indication appears on the outside of the case, and the watch is of foreign manufacture, the origin of the movement or of the watch must also be affixed to the outside of the watch. "Swiss Quartz" indication This indication is often illegally affixed to the outside of the watch, especially by foreign manufacturers wishing to show that the quartz movement used is of Swiss origin. But, according to the OSM, the use of this indication on the outside of the watch signifies that the watch is Swiss. "Swiss parts" indication This marking indicates that the movement is composed of movement-blanks which have been manufactured in Switzerland, but assembled abroad. This indication may only appear on the movement, and never on the outside of the watch. Role of the FH (Fédération de l'industrie Horlogère Suisse FH) The FH has a double role in the protection of this indication of geographical origin; [*]firstly, the FH advises the companies on the lawful markings for watches and movements according to the Federal Council's Ordinance governing the use of the word "Swiss" for watches; [*]secondly it may act against companies which illegally use this indication, in order to protect the consumer, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the renown of this designation, which is synonymous with quality. If you have any questions about "Swiss made", please do not hesitate to contact a member of our Legal staff. (See also News) http://www.fhs.ch/doc/osme.pdf of the Federal Council's Ordinance governing the use of the word "Swiss" for watches. Source: http://www.fhs.ch/en/swissm.php

Posted by: Neo Dec 12 2004, 02:14 AM "Swiss Made" - A general overview Watches, clocks and alarm clocks manufactured in Switzerland bear the designation "Swiss made" (or its abbreviation "Swiss") as well as the logo of the producer or distributor. This label ("place of origin" in legal terms) enjoys a solid reputation throughout the world. And globalization of trade has done nothing to diminish its importance. On the contrary, the modern consumer is looking for a maximum of information when he or she goes shopping for a new timepiece. What lies behind this reputation ? What does a label like this mean for the consumer ? "Swiss made" embodies a concept of quality that has been forged over the years. It includes the technical quality of watches (accuracy, reliability, water-resistance and shock-resistance), as well as their aesthetic quality (elegance and originality of design). It covers both traditional manufacturing and new technologies (micro-electronics). The Swiss are not the only watchmakers to manufacture high-quality timepieces and are consequently faced with strong competition. However, thanks to their unique infrastructure and to their know-how and spirit of innovation, they have succeeded in maintaining their leading position. The intrinsic value of the "Swiss made" label, therefore, is the result of considerable efforts on the part of watchmaking companies, who are ultimately responsible for maintaining its reputation. While prestigious brand names have thrived, they have never relegated the "Swiss made" label to a secondary place. The brand names and "Swiss made" have always worked together in an alliance that provides the consumer with the best of guarantees. It is hardly surprising that this asset whets the appetite of counterfeiters. "Swiss made" has to be constantly protected on every market. Providing this protection is one of the principal tasks of the FH which conducts an on-going battle through legal and administrative channels to thwart anyone abusing the "Swiss" name. The weapons used in this battle are the laws of each of the countries concerned, backed by international agreements (bi-lateral treaties signed by Switzerland with several European countries and multi-lateral conventions drawn up by the World Intellectual Property Organization and by the World Trade Organization - TRIPS agreement -). Recognizing that it must set the example, Switzerland has already reinforced the legal instruments at its disposal. The new law on "the protection of brand names and place of origin", passed on 28 August 1992, introduced more severe punishments. The Swiss customs authorities, for their part, keep a vigilant eye on all imports, exports and merchandise in transit. Moreover, a law "regulating the use of the name 'Swiss' for watches" sets out the minimum conditions that have to be fulfilled before a watch merits the "Swiss made" label. This law is based on a concept according to which Swiss quality depends on the amount of work actually carried out on a watch in Switzerland, even if some foreign components are used in it. It therefore requires that the assembly work on the movement (the motor of the watch) and on the watch itself (fitting the movement with the dial, hands and the various parts of the case) should be carried out in Switzerland, along with the final testing of the movement. It also requires that at least 50% of the components of the movement should be manufactured in Switzerland. Certain regions in Switzerland have their own "place of origin" labels. One of the most renowned is "Genève", which identifies top-quality timepieces made in the city and canton of Geneva. Like "Swiss made", this label is very popular with counterfeiters and therefore benefits from continuous protection within the framework of the FH's anti-counterfeiting programme. The Swiss watch industry is very active in safeguarding the integrity of "Swiss made" and its other regional labels of quality. The vigilant consumer can also play an effective supporting role. By choosing reputable sales points and not being tempted by deals that are as dubious as they are outlandish, he or she will help to thwart counterfeiters, protect his or her own interests and contribute to the defence of fair trading. The FH and its regional representatives will be happy to provide further information on this subject. Conditions for use A Swiss watch Only when it is Swiss, may a watch carry the indications "Swiss made" or "Swiss", or any other expression containing the word "Swiss" or its translation, on the outside. According to Section 1a OSM, a watch is considered to be Swiss if: its movement is Swiss; its movement is cased up in Switzerland; and the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland.. As we have seen, to be Swiss, a watch must use a Swiss movement. According to Section 2 OSM, a movement is considered to be Swiss if:it has been assembled in Switzerland; it has been inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland; and the components of Swiss manufacture account for at least 50 percent of the total value, without taking into account the cost of assembly. If the movement fulfills these conditions, but the watch is not assembled in Switzerland, the "Swiss" indication may be affixed to one of the components of the movement. On the outside of the watch, may then only appear the "mouvement suisse" or "Swiss movement" indication. Section 3 § 3 OSM requires that the word "movement" appear in full, and be written in the same type-face, of identical size and colour, as the word "Swiss". The left picture represents the right display. Material extent of the use of the word "Swiss" The word "use" is understood in a broad sense: it not only covers the application of the above-mentioned designation to the watch, but also, according to Section 3 § 5 OSM:the sale, offering for sale or putting into circulation of watches bearing such an indication; the application of this designation to signs, advertisements, prospectus, invoices, letters or commercial papers. Particular cases Wristlet The "Swiss made" indication may only appear on a wristlet if it is of Swiss manufacture and if the watch is also Swiss. A wristlet is considered to be Swiss if it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland and if 50 percent of the production costs originate in Switzerland. When a Swiss wristlet is attached to a watch manufactured abroad, it may only bear a reference to the word "Swiss" if this designation clearly shows that only the wristlet is of Swiss manufacture (for example, "Swiss wristlet"). Case The "Swiss case" indication on a watch case betokens that the case is of Swiss manufacture. A case is considered to be Swiss if: [*]it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland (stamping, turning, or polishing); [*]it has been assembled and inspected in Switzerland; and [*]over 50 percent of the manufacturing costs (excluding the value of the material) are due to operations carried out in Switzerland. When the "Swiss case" indication appears on the outside of the case, and the watch is of foreign manufacture, the origin of the movement or of the watch must also be affixed to the outside of the watch. "Swiss Quartz" indication This indication is often illegally affixed to the outside of the watch, especially by foreign manufacturers wishing to show that the quartz movement used is of Swiss origin. But, according to the OSM, the use of this indication on the outside of the watch signifies that the watch is Swiss. "Swiss parts" indication This marking indicates that the movement is composed of movement-blanks which have been manufactured in Switzerland, but assembled abroad. This indication may only appear on the movement, and never on the outside of the watch. Role of the FH (Fédération de l'industrie Horlogère Suisse FH) The FH has a double role in the protection of this indication of geographical origin; [*]firstly, the FH advises the companies on the lawful markings for watches and movements according to the Federal Council's Ordinance governing the use of the word "Swiss" for watches; [*]secondly it may act against companies which illegally use this indication, in order to protect the consumer, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the renown of this designation, which is synonymous with quality. If you have any questions about "Swiss made", please do not hesitate to contact a member of our Legal staff. (See also News) http://www.fhs.ch/doc/osme.pdf of the Federal Council's Ordinance governing the use of the word "Swiss" for watches. Source: http://www.fhs.ch/en/swissm.php

Posted by: Neo Dec 10 2004, 09:49 AM Glycine Watch With Pascal Alajouanine June 15, 2004 Airman 9 Pascale Alajouanine For its 90th anniversary Glycine Watch has signed a special partnership deal, through which the firm will support the stunt pilot Pascale Alajouanine over the next three years. "Our new ambassador is our perfect counterpart," said a delighted Katherina Brechbühler, General Manager of the Biel based firm. "This pleasant French woman is the ideal representative of our values of rigour and technology," criteria that are particularly important in the world of aviation and, to an even greater extent, aerobatics. A native of Boulogne, near Paris, Pascale Alajouanine obtained her pilot’s licence on CAP-10 more than twenty years ago. Today, she flies on CAP-232 and holds the European Champion title after recording seven French championship victories and one team World Championship success. For her, accuracy and technology are important not just in her sporting career, but also professionally, since she works part-time as an optician. "To tell the truth, from May to September, during the aerobatics season, I have very little time to spend in the job," she points out. The new Airman 9 from Glycine is a particularly apt match for this "Airwoman". Since the launch of this extraordinary watch at Baselworld 2004, Pascale Alajouanine has been wearing the Airman 9, which combines chronograph and universal time functions. She is very enthusiastic about this genuinely out-of-the-ordinary timepiece, water resistant to 200 metres and equipped with the ETA 7754 automatic calibre. "The chronograph helps me to plan my flying times and keep to them. In fact, in aerobatics programmes, the time allowed is limited," she explains. "In addition, with the universal time function, during competitions taking place in other time zones, I can easily stay in touch with my base." Source: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH Posted by: Neo Dec 10 2004, 09:56 AM Vacheron Constantin inaugurates its ‘Home’ December 09, 2004 After a year’s restoration work in collaboration with the architect Eric Maria, Vacheron Constantin returned to its ‘home’ yesterday on the Quai de L’Ile in Geneva, where it has been since 1843. The continuous presence of Vacheron Constantin on the Quai de l’Ile for over 130 years is as unique and exceptional as its status in watchmaking history. Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch Manufacture in uninterrupted activity since 1755, the ‘Maison’ Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the founding values of the finest Geneva watchmaking traditions, at the heart of a district constituting its historical cradle. Divided into two floors that form a unique entity, the ‘Maison’ houses the boutique, the brand archives, the tools and the watches from 1755 to the present day, as well as an artistic workshop dedicated to the restoration of antique watches and to the creation of one-of-a-kind or personalised models. Traditional craftsmanship and contemporary culture The interior design uses wood, bronze and leather to convey rarity, originality and fine workmanship, corresponding to the values inherent to horological creations carrying the Vacheron Constantin signature for the past quarter of a millennium. Offering a modern, integrated area composed of two floors, the renovated premises are designed to be a spacious, serene and dynamic home, with the boutique on the ground floor and the heritage area on the 1st floor. The cohabitation between the current collection and vintage watches enables the visitor to grasp the essential values of the brand from its origins through to the 21st century. On the upper floor, watches, machines, original antique furniture and company records highlight a quarter of a millennium of watchmaking history. The premises will also progressively house the areas dedicated to Vacheon Constantin’s ‘Métiers d’Art’ workshops for bevelling, engraving and decoration of the movement and the restoration of antique watches. There is also a lounge-library run by a team dedicated to the brand heritage who are available to respond to any requests for information. The inauguration of the ‘Maison’ is a prelude to the year 2005, the calendar year commemorating the 250th anniversary of the brand, which will feature the launch of five exceptional creations: symbols representing a comprehensive survey of one quarter of a millennium of watchmaking history, and witnessing to the exceptional know-how of the master-watchmakers of Vacheron Constantin. 250 years of landmarks 1755 Jean-Marc Vacheron opens a watchmaking workshop in the Saint-Gervais district of Geneva. He creates his first models there, heralding an impressive production, and founds a dynasty that will shape the destiny of one of the greatest names in watchmaking history. 1819 At the end of the Napoleonic Wars, François Constantin joins the company. For decades, he travels tirelessly the length and breadth of Europe, opening up all the markets of the era to the marvels of ingenuity carrying the Vacheron Constantin signature. 1839 A mechanical genius hired to manage production, Georges-Auguste Leschot revolutionises watch production by developing the first machines capable of making interchangeable parts. 1875 Now somewhat cramped within its historical premises on the Tour de l’Ile, the Maison moves to the nearby Rue des Moulins, where the company headquarters, museum and boutique are still located to this day. 1880 Adoption of the Maltese Cross as the brand symbol, derived from a component that used to be fixed to the barrel-cover in order to prevent excessive winding of the mainspring and thus to enhance the rating precision of the watch. 1906 Inauguration of the Vacheron Constantin boutique on the Rue des Moulins, at the heart of Geneva. 1911 Vacheron Constantin makes its first wristwatches. 1955 Celebration of the company bicentenary with the development of the world’s thinnest mechanical movement: just 1.64 mm! 1979 Sculpted directly from a gold ingot and then set with 130 carats of emerald-cut diamonds, the Kallista watch by Vacheron Constantin immediately asserts itself as one of the world’s most dazzling watch creations, the result of no less than 8,700 hours of meticulous workmanship. 1992 Launch of the Vacheron Constantin 1755 (minute repeater) and 1760 (tourbillon) movements. 1994 Inauguration of the Vacheron Constantin private museum, a faithful reconstitution of an 18th century cabinotiers workshop. 1996 The Manufacture launches its Overseas sports collection. 1998 Integration of the Haute de Gamme movement workshops in the Vallée de Joux, with which the company has enjoyed a long-established partnership and increasingly close ties. 2000 Launch of the Malte Collection, characterised by its resolutely contemporary spirit, and is emblematic shaped Tourbillon. 2004 Inauguration of the new Manufacture. Launch of the new Patrimony en hommage aux grands explorateurs, which perpetuates the art of enamelling. 2005 Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 250th anniversary. Source: Vacheron Constantin Press Release Courtesy europastar Posted by: Neo Dec 10 2004, 10:01 AM N E W M o d e l – Dunhill A-Centric Dec 09, 2004 Dunhill, a company of the Richemont Group, has unveiled its latest mechanical model, the A-Centric. Movement is an ETA automatic finished by Dubois-Depraz. It is available in 18kt yellow gold or stainless steel with a sapphire crystal. MSRP is $7,900 for the gold version. Courtesy timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 10 2004, 10:02 AM N E W M o d e l – Piaget Limelight Dec 10, 2004 The latest offering from Piaget is this delicate piece for the ladies. The case is done in 18kt white gold. The watch comes with six different interchangeable multi-colored straps. Dials can be had in in opal, pink opal, meteorite, onyx, turquoise and cachalong (translucent opal). Options include bezels set with 160 diamonds or in a hand-engraved guilloche pattern. Movements are Swiss quartz. Courtesy timezone

Posted by: Neo Dec 10 2004, 05:45 AM Self-winding watch with the quartz precision. How does it work ? At the present time the Swiss watch industry is applying two parallel technologies: electronic technology, with the analog quartz watch (sometimes combined with digital display) and the more traditional technology of the mechanical watch which origin dates back in the 14th century. Almost 90 % of the industry's production, in terms of volume, is currently made up of electronic, battery-operated watches, mainly of the analog type. 10 % is of mechanical products whose export value continues to be of fundamental importance, as these watches represent more than 52 % of Swiss watch exports in terms of value. In an analog quartz watch, the heart of the watch is the integrated circuit, made up of a large number of electronic components grouped together on a base of only a few square millimeters. The source of energy consists of a miniature battery which lasts several years. The time is divided by a quartz oscillator which is made to vibrate by the energy supplied by the battery. Quartz watches are extremely accurate thanks to their high frequency of vibrations (32 kHz); their annual variation is only about one minute per year, equivalent to less than a second a day. In this field there are two main kinds of products: 1) watches with an analog display (hands), 2) watches with digital display; this is fitted with liquid crystals which receive, directly from the integrated circuit, the impulses needed to display the time. So there is no mechanical transmission. An electronic (quartz) watch 1) Battery, providing the power 2) Integrated circuit, controlling the quartz and the stepping motor 3) Oscillating quartz, dividing the time 4) Trimmer, regulating the frequency 5) Stepping motor, transforming the electrical impulses into mechanical power 6) Gear train, activating the hours, minutes, seconds hands 7) Analog display These two types of products are sometimes combined together in the same finished watch (double display, particularly useful for measuring short time intervals). The traditional mechanical watch is made up of about 130 parts assembled in the three main parts which are the source of energy, the regulating parts and the display. The number of component parts is much higher in so-called complicated watches (date, phases of moon, fly-back hand, etc.). The "ébauche" (about 60 parts) fitted with the regulating and certain other parts, forms the movement, in other words the internal mechanism of the watch, which makes it possible to maintain a constant tension in the spring once it has been wound manually or automatically (by movements of the wrist) and to regulate the display by means of the hands (hours, minutes, seconds). A watch is said to be finished when the movement has been fitted with a dial, hands, and case. A mechanical watch 1) Barrel/mainspring providing the power 2) Gear train, transmitting the power 3) Escapement, distributing the impulses 4) Balance wheel & hairspring, oscillating, making the division of time 5a) Winding stem, for manual winding and setting 5b) OscillatingwWeight, for automatic winding 6) Dial train, activating the hours, minutes, seconds hands The combination of these two technologies recently brought on a new type of watch movement running like a traditional quartz movement but getting its energy the same way as in a self-winding mechanical movement (Self-winding watch with the quartz precision). Its working principle is simple and however revolutionary: an oscillating weight streches the mainspring which release starts a micro-generator converting the mechanical energy into electrical power. This power is then accumulated in a capacitor. The system works later as a traditional quartz watch, meaning that the integrated circuit controls the power supply and provides the impulses to the stepping motor. Source: Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH

Posted by: Neo Dec 9 2004, 08:31 AM This article was posted on badbusinessbureau.com and reveals an interesting point of view from a guy named Scott. I post this just for educational purposes and thank rag_head for notifying us. Corrupt Companies Submitted: 10/19/2003 8:34:17 AM Modified: 11/3/2004 2:57:38 PM This is a very serious scam and these Rolex thieves should be shut down immediately. Montres Rolex SA is a watch company comprised of Patrick Heiniger and other executives who make huge salaries while cheating you of your hard earned dollars by misrepresenting their products as Swiss Made and acting like they are a non-profit organization. The fact that they are set up as a non-profit company but that the executives and many others in the company make some of the largest salaries you can imagine is sickening, but the fact that they cheat you is and me is horrible. Rolex uses hundreds of different names on ebay to bid up the prices of Rolex watches on ebay in order to control secondary market pricing. Nearly 100% of the time, they don't complete the transactions, and the sellers are forced to list the items again and again -- thus perpetuating the market pricing control and appearance that their items are being sold for much higher dollar amounts than they actually would have been if a real buyer would have completed the transaction. They hide behind aliases so they can lie to people and not be held accountable as well as giving the appearance Rolex is a much more powerful company. Rolex higher-ups run several watch-related forums, posting messages under fake names so they can praise Rolex watches and again lend the appearance that many watch aficionados really love these junk watches. There are too many to keep track of or know about. The watches they sell are assembled in Hong Kong and China in addition to Switzerland using some Chinese components -- but they don't mention the fact that they use these components in their watches. They want you to believe their watches are all assembled by hand in Switzerland using 100% Swiss components and that it takes one year to make a Rolex. Ask anybody in the world in the watchmaking business, and they will tell you that there is no way that Rolexes can take anywhere near that long to assemble. Rolex pumps out almost 1,000,000 junk watches per year. They claim the watches are assembled in Switzerland, but only some of them are. Independent studies have shown that balance wheels, hairsprings, bridges, screws, mainsprings, crowns, and other components are manufactured in China. These components have the exact same specs as the ones used in Rolexes and an insider who is very upset with these business practices has been contacting everybody he can to tell them of this fraud. This makes it obvious that everyone who bought the earler cheaper models were totally ripped-off, too. They have several models which they pay as little as $15.00 dollars for and then claim it sells at retail from $1,500.00 up to $100,000 dollars. They sell them on through retail stores and on ebay claiming it to be a promotion to retain value in the age of the internet (behind the scenes of course). This promo has run for over 4 years! You should be paying much less for these cheap watches, but Rolex is artifically keeping prices very high in order to steal your hard earned money. Also note that Rolex claims there are many counterfeit Rolex watches out there. How can they be counterfeit if they come from the same company that supplies Rolex their watches? I sincerely doubt the company sells Rolex a great movement and sells everyone else a duplicate piece of crap. Look at all of the replicas on the streets that look and run exactly like Rolex. Rolex helped develop them. Then they shut down street merchants in order to get free publicity in "raids." When a customer asks about all the bad press on the internet about Rolex, Rolex conveniently claims everyone who has negative statements are simply disgruntled people from the past who are trying to make trouble for them because they didn't get a good enough deal. Rolex is a mafia styled organization. This is a ridiculous assertion, the truth is there are many people who know these watches are a scam and are trying to help inform others. Rolex successfully fooled millions of people making hundreds of millions of dollars. They have enough ill gotten money to buy advertising in an attempt to look more legitimate. They frequently refer people to magazines in which they have placed ads. Keep in mind that it doesn't matter what publication they are in, it is simply paid advertising. Anyone with the money can get into these same magazines. If you bought any Rolex watch take it to be appraised and learn for yourself. Then contact us and we'll help do something about it. These models in particular are definitely using China components. 1. Explorer 2. Explorer II 3. GMT Master 4. GMT Master II 5. Submariner 6. Seadweller 7. President 8. DateJust 9. Daytona 10. Ladies President 11. Yacht Master 12. Lady Yacht Master Do a search on Google for Rolex replicas to see many fake Rolexes produced by Rolex and sold all over the world. You can find Chinese sources for genuine Rolex products, and now Rolex has just invested millions of dollars to build new factories/service centers in mainland China. They are stealing your hard earned money, so please be ware and help us stop this scam. Scott Black Hawk, Colorado U.S.A. Source: http://www.badbusinessbureau.com/reports/ripoff69508.htm Posted by: Neo Dec 10 2004, 05:29 AM Posting from Bad Business Bureau, submitted on October 1, 2004 (thanks to Fendushi) I found the information posted below and feel that it should be posted on this site and would ask that Americans perpetuate this information to help educate the world. Too many people have been fooled into believing that the Swiss build the best watches while shunning the Asians. Read below and you'll realize that the Asians are heavily involved in the production of the Swiss Made watches and many of the components are even produced in Asia in some of the best known Swiss brands of watches. Read and learn and then be sure to email this to others. What a scam!! I also must post this from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry regarding what the term 'Swiss Made' really means. I have found this analysis from a NAWCC member: Here is a breakdown of what the term Swiss Made legally means (taken directly from the official website for the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry) at http://www.fhs.ch Swiss Made A general overview Moreover, a law "regulating the use of the name 'Swiss' for watches" sets out the minimum conditions that have to be fulfilled before a watch merits the "Swiss made" label. This law is based on a concept according to which Swiss quality depends on the amount of work actually carried out on a watch in Switzerland, even if some foreign components are used in it. The term is actually stating that Swiss assembly people in the watch industry are the best rather than the components being the bestIt therefore requires that the assembly work on the movement (the motor of the watch) and on the watch itself (fitting the movement with the dial, hands and the various parts of the case) should be carried out in Switzerland, along with the final testing of the movement. It also requires that at least 50% of the components of the movement should be manufactured in Switzerland. The 50% term is later discussed as 50% of the value of the components. Legally speaking Conditions for use Case A Swiss watch "Swiss Quartz" indication A Swiss watch movement "Swiss parts" indication Material extent of the use of the word "Swiss" Role of the FH Wristlet A Swiss watch Only when it is Swiss, may a watch carry the indications "Swiss made" or "Swiss", or any other expression containing the word "Swiss" or its translation, on the outside. According to Section 1a OSM, a watch is considered to be Swiss if: its movement is Swiss; its movement is cased up in Switzerland; and the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland. A Swiss watch movement As we have seen, to be Swiss, a watch must use a Swiss movement. According to Section 2 OSM, a movement is considered to be Swiss if: it has been assembled in Switzerland; it has been inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland; and the components of Swiss manufacture account for at least 50 percent of the total value, without taking into account the cost of assembly. Remember that 50% of the VALUE of the components must be manufactured in Switzerland. A $10.00 Chinese movement unassembled could be sent to Switzerland and then assembled using 1 (ONE) Swiss manufactured rotor or screw or any component on the movement that cost $10.00 and this movement will qualify for legal use of the term. Remember that Franck Muller used the Poljot movements (Russian manufactured) with platinum Swiss manufactured rotors, and although it was a bit of a black eye for the Swiss watch industry and an eye opener for collectors, did not cause Franck Muller any problems because Watchland was complying with the legal use of the term on their watches. Material extent of the use of the word "Swiss" The word "use" is understood in a broad sense: it not only covers the application of the above-mentioned designation to the watch, but also, according to Section 3 § 5 OSM: the sale, offering for sale or putting into circulation of watches bearing such an indication; the application of this designation to signs, advertisements, prospectus, invoices, letters or commercial papers. Particular cases Wristlet The "Swiss made" indication may only appear on a wristlet if it is of Swiss manufacture and if the watch is also Swiss. A wristlet is considered to be Swiss if it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland and if 50 percent of the production costs originate in Switzerland. When a Swiss wristlet is attached to a watch manufactured abroad, it may only bear a reference to the word "Swiss" if this designation clearly shows that only the wristlet is of Swiss manufacture (for example, "Swiss wristlet"). Case The "Swiss case" indication on a watch case betokens that the case is of Swiss manufacture. A case is considered to be Swiss if: [*]it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland (stamping, turning, or polishing); [*]it has been assembled and inspected in Switzerland; and [*]over 50 percent of the manufacturing costs (excluding the value of the material) are due to operations carried out in Switzerland. When the "Swiss case" indication appears on the outside of the case, and the watch is of foreign manufacture, the origin of the movement or of the watch must also be affixed to the outside of the watch. "Swiss Quartz" indication This indication is often illegally affixed to the outside of the watch, especially by foreign manufacturers wishing to show that the quartz movement used is of Swiss origin. But, according to the OSM, the use of this indication on the outside of the watch signifies that the watch is Swiss. "Swiss parts" indication This marking indicates that the movement is composed of movement-blanks which have been manufactured in Switzerland, but assembled abroad. This indication may only appear on the movement, and never on the outside of the watch. Role of the FH (Fédération de l'industrie Horlogère Suisse FH) The FH has a double role in the protection of this indication of geographical origin; [*]firstly, the FH advises the companies on the lawful markings for watches and movements according to the Federal Council's Ordinance governing the use of the word "Swiss" for watches; [*]secondly it may act against companies which illegally use this indication, in order to protect the consumer, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the renown of this designation, which is synonymous with quality. If you have any questions about "Swiss made", please do not hesitate to contact a member of our Legal staff. (See also News) Download the text of the Federal Council's Ordinance governing the use of the word "Swiss" for watches. There have been rumors for years that many Swiss Made watches use components manufactured in the far east. I think this really clarifies that they can do so without any penalty. If ETA can produce most of a movement in Taiwan and then send it to Switzerland for assembly while utilizing the very valuable marketing tool known as Swiss Made, then they are within their legal rights. And if they can do this and produce said movement for half as much as if they produced it in Switzerland, then they undoubtedly will or are. My main problem is that the same people who so loudly endorse this marketing term "Swiss Made" also denounce their far east colleagues, and this isn't right. The Asians and Russians are doing some nice work. I'll bet you a nickel that their nicest work appears in some of the nicest mainstream watches on the market." Tom Oklahoma City, Oklahoma U.S.A. Source: http://www.badbusinessbureau.com/reports/ripoff111078.htm

Posted by: Neo Dec 9 2004, 07:25 AM N E W M o d e l - Porsche Design PTC 911 Limited Edition This limited edition from Porsche Design features a highly elaborate rotor in the shape of a wheel. The case, in titanium, measures 40mm. It has double sapphire crystals. Movement is the automatic chronograph ETA caliber 2894-2. Dials can be had in black, yellow or red. MSRP starts at 3,600 Euros for the rubber strap version, all the way up to 12,300 Euros for the 3 piece set-box. Courtesy TimeZone Posted by: Neo Dec 9 2004, 07:27 AM N E W M o d e l – Cyma 1940 Automatic Cyma was founded in 1862 in the Jura Valley. Today, they are based in Le Locle. Their latest addition is the 1940 collection of timepieces. The case, in stainless steel and 18kt yellow gold measures 38mm. The crystal is sapphire. It is water resistant to 50 meters. Movement is the automatic ETA caliber 2892 with sub-seconds at 6 o’clock and COSC certification as a chronometer. Courtesy TimeZone Posted by: Neo Dec 9 2004, 07:28 AM N E W M o d e l - Concord Jump Hour Delirium This limited edition Delirium, based on the 1979 collection of super-thin watches, features a Jump Hour indication. Concord will unveil for the 25th anniversary of this feat a skeletonized Delirum and a power reserve model. The case is done in 18kt white gold, the crystal is sapphire. Movement is manual wind. A collection of quartz time-only Delirium models is also available but only in 18kt yellow and rose gold. All white gold models will be mechanical. Courtesy TimeZone

Posted by: Neo Dec 9 2004, 07:17 AM Pilot 10th Anniversary watch by Bell & Ross December 08, 2004 10 years ago, Bell & Ross presented the first re-launch of its original model, especially designed for aeronautics: the Pilot Chronograph. To commemorate this anniversary, Bell & Ross has produced a Special Edition limited to 500 pieces. Manufactured with pioneering techniques, the Pilot 10th Anniversary model follows the fundamental design principles of the brand: readability, performance, precision and water-resistance. The retro-style watchcase features ‘mushroom-like’ pushers and a black steel and anodized aluminium bi-directional bezel, designed for aircraft navigation. Easily identified by the horizontally aligned sub-dials, the automatic mechanism is assembled and adjusted with high precision in the traditional Swiss watchmaking manner. The technical characteristics of this limited edition are embodied in the ultra-curved shape of its anti-scratch sapphire crystal. The difficulty involved in the design and manufacture of this crystal, required over a year of study and trials conducted by the Bell & Ross technicians and engineers. At the height of refinement, the Pilot 10th Anniversary comes in a luxurious wooden box finished in black-gloss and further decorated with the colours of this special edition. Technical description Movement: thin self-winding mechanical mechanism, 4 position adjustment, 0/+10 seconds per day. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, 2 sub-dials (60-second and 30-minute counters) chronograph and date. Watchcase: polished stainless steel with the 10th Anniversary logo engraving on the back, ‘mushroom-like’ pushers, black notched steel and anodized aluminium bi-directional rotating bezel with 60-minute graduations for aerial navigation. Dial: white dial with black numerals / black counters with 10th Anniversary logo marking. The hands are coated with a high-luminescent paint (Superluminova®) for easy reading in the dark. Glass: anti-glare ultra-curved sapphire crystal. Water-resistance: to 100 metres. Screw-down crown and caseback. Bracelet: alligator strap or stainless steel bracelet. Source: Bell & Ross Press Release Courtesy of europa star

Posted by: jjajh Dec 7 2004, 06:10 PM Tag Heuer Monaco V4--Revolutionary Concept Watch The end of the gear train In traditional watchmaking, there is an age-old principle: power and motion are transmitted by gears. Whether circular gears, bevel gears, helical gears, worm gears, lantern gears or differential gears, the gear form the basis of mechanical timemaking. But now, enter Ruchonnet. His idea was to replace the gears by notched drive belts, just like in a car engine. So, what were the potential advantages of this world first ‘revolution’ in wristwatch movementsı In a traditional calibre, if we want to transmit power and motion from one point to another, we need to add more gears. On the other hand, with a drive belt system, we can go basically anywhere we want, with no obstacles. The second advantage is that a drive belt absorbs shocks more easily because of its flexibility. But Ruchonnet didn’t stop there. He also wanted to eliminate the need for lubrication, which would therefore cut down on the indispensable maintenance required for the smooth operation of a watch. Thus, he proposed replacing the traditional jewels (the red synthetic rubies) by ceramic micro ball-races, the smallest of which is 2.2 mm in diameter and 0.5 mm high, which would dramatically reduce the effects of friction. The third ‘revolution’ involved the oscillating mass, or weight, which traditionally is superimposed on the movement and moves in a rotational manner. Ruchonnet came up with the idea of having a linear oscillating weight made up of a 4.25-gram platinum ingot that moves up and down on a track between the four spring barrels. A gear system on the long side of the weight engages a cogwheel and converts the linear motion into a rotating movement. A shared folly "What is great about this project," explains Philippe Dufour, "is that people finally began to understand Ruchonnet’s folly. It took a lot of courage to take on such a venture." And courage is what TAG Heuer and its CEO Jean-Christophe Babin have definitely demonstrated. Excited by the idea of “defying the most established conventions,” comforted by the strong tradition of innovation that is at the core of the brand’s identity, Babin placed all of the resources of his enterprise, both human and technological, in the service of this new concept. Eighteen months of development were needed to bring the Monaco V4 Concept Watch to the prototype stage “just a few days before the BaselWorld fair.” The bombshell On the opening day of BaselWorld, TAG’s announcement of its new timepiece exploded like a bombshell in the terrain of mechanical watchmaking. As always, the analysts quickly became divided into two camps; they were either enthusiastic supporters or total sceptics. To the latter, who declared that beyond the functional prototype presented at BaselWorld, the Monaco V4 could never be made on a commercial scale, Philippe Dufour disagrees. “The idea is ingenius,” he declares, which certainly means something coming from the talented Master watchmaker who turned Ruchonnet’s idea into reality. As for Jean-Christophe Babin, who makes no attempt to hide the difficulties that might arise before the watch can be manufactured on a commercial scale, his determination is absolutely unwavering. “It will take the time that it takes, but the Monaco V4 will be made on a commercial scale,” he insists. Industrial solutions Nothing is really preventing the commercialization of this remarkable watch because all the industrial solutions have already been found, especially in terms of the material necessary to make the 13 notched drive belts, whose tension is controlled by turnbuckles. The name V4 comes from the movement's four spring barrels, which are mounted on a V-shaped main plate and are visible on the reverse side of the watch. It is impossible to know the exact nature of the material that makes up the drive belts. It is a special alloy with amazing properties, classed as a ‘defence secret’ by the French army. Just one of these micro drive belts, measuring only 0.5 mm by 0.45 mm, can support a weight of more than 40 kilos! As for the famous spring barrels, each of the four can store 375 g of energy for a total strength of 1.5 kg. If one, two or even three of the barrels should stop working, the watch would still continue to tick away. The barrels are mounted in a V, at an angle of 15° in relation to the dial, reminiscent of a V-shaped car engine. Two constant velocity joints, also as in the world of the automobile, transmit their energy to the movement. They are supported by sapphire bridges, which have the added advantage of allowing the movement to be visible from below. Total design The Monaco V4 is also a success from a design standpoint for the simple reason that there is nothing ‘decorative’ about it, but rather it is all ‘design’. In other words, the form of the watch, emphasized by the bridges and the sapphire crystal, comes integrally from the functionality of the piece. The Monaco V4 does not have a ‘dial’ in the traditional sense of the term, but neither can it be classed as a ‘skeleton’ watch. Housed in the evolution of the brand’s famous TAG Heuer Monaco timepiece, created in 1964, the movement itself becomes the aesthetic expression of the watch.

Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 08:43 AM Raid Watches Limited Edition Marina Flottiglia Mas RAID MARINA Flottiglia Mas Automatic Swiss made movement Eta 2836 In Steel Ø47mm, Rotating bezel, Saphhire crytal, 200 Metres watre-proof, Screw crown, Hour, minutes and hands luminiscent Tritium, Rubber Strap with stell ardillon buckle. Supplied in a pear wood box, with a torpedo "Maiale", a Flottiglia Mas booklet, spare strap and scewdriver. Limited Edition of 1945 pieces. Source: OM Watches December 2004 Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 09:54 AM This article was taken from a french web site and google translated. Audemars Piguet Watch Dual Time Millenary Maserati December 3, 2004. Created in 1914 in Bologna by Alfieri Maserati born of a family of seven brothers, of which all except one were implied in the development of cars. (the seventh brother, Mario, are supposed to have drawn emblème of the mark, the famous three-pronged fork) Maserati is undoubtedly the prototype of the manufacturer of sports cars resulting from the race. It is however only after the Second World war that the mark will come to the production from its splendid and brilliant WP From Quattroporte drawn by Pietro Frua, which was the fastest truck of its time, in legendary Khamsin, Bora or Merak, Maserati incontestably marked of its print the automobile legend. It is in September 2004 that the manufacturer celebrated his 90 years of success. The occasion for Audemars Piguet to present at the time of a dinner of official reception at the Miani Villa of Rome, in the presence of George-Henri Meylan, managing director of Audemars Piguet and Martin Leach, managing director of Maserati and 600 recommend come from the whole world, the news Dual Time Millenary Maserati, shows completely original by its design, its colors and its materials, published in limited series. It is in the Millenary collection, whose case evokes the architecture of Colisée, that is registered this creation dedicated to the Italian car manufacturer. It should be said that its oval form, print at the same time of modernity and of classicisme, lent itself particularly to this new interpretation, inspired of the design and the Maserati spirit. For its dial, Dual Time Millenary Maserati adopts a three-dimensional revolutionary esthetics: the dial made up of four independent parts of which two are tilted according to different angles' directed towards the center, the principal turn of hour and the zone of indication of reserve of walk, giving to the unit an astonishing structure in relief. The analogic display of the date and the two turns of hour are shifted in their centers. The partnership between clock making Manufacture and the Italian car manufacturer, founded on common values of tradition, excellence and innovation, appears thus profitable and very promising... for the greatest pleasure of the amateurs of chronometer and cars of exception. Source: La Cote des Montres Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 10:00 AM Majestic in size, classic in style, its spare lines assert the Patrimony Grande Taille's patrician personality Its Sweeping Round Case Houses A Proprietary Movement Bearing The Hallmark Of Geneva Indication Of Quality And Origin. A large, trim, perfectly round case featuring a broad, understated dial and a proprietary hand-wound mechanical movement compose the new Patrimony Grande Taille launched this year by Vacheron Constantin and designed for men with an eye for exceptional design. Its patrician personality is manifest at first sight. With its slim profile and deliberately unadorned face, this new Patrimony Grande Taille embodies the classic heritage of a maker born nearly two and a half centuries ago, amply confirmed by the exceptional movement that brings it to life. Designed and crafted according to the most demanding standards of Genevan horology at its finest, the Vacheron Constantin caliber 1400 hand-wound mechanical movement can rightly claim the title of "mouvement manufacture", i.e. a proprietary design born of the experience and expertise of the company's own team of master watchmakers and made on its own premises. Since the essential phases of caliber 1400's construction all take place on the territory of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, this movement can legitimately be inscribed with the Hallmark of Geneva indication of provenance, a mark of quality attesting the exceptional excellence of its design and finish. Here for instance, all appropriately flat areas of the movement are decorated with a ribbed "Côtes de Genève" pattern, sharp angles chamfered then, along with all flat screw heads, polished by hand. To house this accomplished demonstration of Genevan mechanical genius, Vacheron Constantin stylists have designed the 18K yellow or white gold case of the Patrimony Grande Taille according to two sets of aesthetic norms rarely applied in tandem. While the stylish slimness of its profile salutes the classic tradition, its 40-millimeter diameter provides a distinct contemporary touch. Framed by the case's slim polished bezel and protected by a clear sapphire crystal, the dial face is slightly cambered at its outer edge and displays a broad pale silvery finish with subtle opalescent luster, enhanced only by discreet 18K gold hour markers and domed minute dots. A pair of baton-shaped hands, also in 18K gold, add to the watch's understated distinction, confirmed by the "Maltese cross" signature at its center. Fitted with a matching 18K gold standard prong-type gold clasp, the Patrimony Grande Taille's classic alligator mississipiensis strap comes in black for the white gold model and in maroon for the yellow gold design Technical Specifications References 81180/000G-9117 and 81180/000J-9118 Caliber caliber 1400, hand-wound, with Hallmark of Geneva indication of origin Movement thickness 2.60 mm Movement diameter 20.35 mm, or 9 lines Movement jewelling 20 Frequency 28 800 v.p.h. Indications hours and minutes Case 18K white or yellow gold, Ø 40 mm Water resistance to 30 m (~ 100 feet) Dial pale silvery toned, with opalescent finish and cambered border Strap black or maroon hand-stitched alligator mississipiensis leather Buckle prong-type, in 18K white or yellow gold Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 10:16 AM The Malte chronograph: a meeting of traditions Where Exceptional Horology Encounters Exquisite Craftsmanship, Traditions Meet, Marry And Merge To Set Unprecedented Standards Of Excellence. Born of technical excellence wedded to expert design, the chronograph now joining Vacheron Constantin's Malte collection carries on the company's finest chronographic traditions of topflight quality and understated styling. It features a hand-wound mechanical chronograph movement with traditional column-wheel construction and elaborately decorated parts along with an arresting engine-turned dial. Designed to time, record and display given spans of time, the chronograph stands in many ways as the quintessential depositor of the spirit of horology. Instrument watch par excellence, it was gradually developed during the 19th century at the urging of scientific and engineering circles, industrialists and even sportsmen lamenting the lack of an accurate and practical way of determining the duration of all sorts of phenomena, processes and performances. Watchmakers finally came up with satisfactory solutions, inventing a variety of new components and ingenious devices in the process. From the moment it appeared, the chronograph has being continually perfected and upgraded, becoming ever easier to use and ever more capable. Dependable expertise Vacheron Constantin lost no time coming up with its own chronograph designs and, by the early years of the 20th century, its designs were reputed for their reliability and good looks. As watches migrated from pocket to wrist, Vacheron Constantin forged ahead, coming out with its first two-pushpiece chronographs during the nineteen thirties. This construction markedly improved performance, enabling two successive times to be captured without having to reset the chronograph to zero, unavoidable with single-pushpiece models in the pocket-watch style, i.e. with the pushpiece fitted in the winding crown axis. Chronographs soon graduated from simply measuring the time a given event took to precisely determining the duration of particular phenomena, read by the chronograph seconds hand off a variety of specifically calibrated scales on the dial - tachymetric, telemetric, pulsometric and even productometric. Over the years, Vacheron Constantin has naturally designed and launched a variety of chronograph designs, some featuring one or more scales of this kind. Its most recent entry, the hand-wound Malte Collection chronograph, features a telemetric scale along with the more usual tachymetric graduations. Accomplished horology and masterful craftsmanship In a clear salute to tradition, Vacheron Constantin watchmakers chose a hand-wound mechanical movement for their new Malte Collection chronograph: the legendary caliber 1141, a tried and tested design with an impeccable technical record, not least because of its fine, dependably efficient column-wheel construction. In the style of many an earlier model, the new Malte chronograph features a 30-minute totalizer and a subdial for the running seconds positioned on the 3-to-9-o'clock axis, along with a center chronograph seconds hand. Every watch movement by Vacheron Constantin is finished like a piece of jewelry, with caliber 114 no exception. A clear sapphire case back provides a fascinating look at its complex construction and magnificent finish. Along with "côtes de Genève" decorative ribbing and the circular graining of appropriate areas, the sides of its parts and components are "stroked" by hand with a file to create delicate parallel lines. Steel parts are chamfered by hand and their chamfer polished; flat screw heads are also meticulously polished. In keeping with solid, long-established traditions, these and many other craft techniques are regularly put to good use today still in Vacheron Constantin workshops. Traditional expertise and technical virtuosity also come together on the Malte chronograph's dial face, a true if discreet work of art in its own right. Made from a sheet of silver-finished 18K gold, its center is painstakingly engine-turned by hand. The neat, crisp layout of its various features - hour circle with minute and second divisions, telemetric scale based on one kilometer, 30-minute totalizer and subdial for the running seconds - results in comfortable, immediate legibility. Along with two 18K gold and three-blued steel hands or pointers, the dial features six round hour markers and six Arabic numerals in 18K gold, all protected by a glareproofed sapphire crystal. In white or in pink 18K gold, the case embodies to perfection the Malte Collection's assertive personality. Its generous size and finely balanced proportions, "fan-shaped" bracelet lugs and round pushpieces, crown featuring a stylized version of the corporate "Maltese cross" symbol and pair of "swordblade" shaped hands all compose an undeniably contemporary composition, yet one that will in time come to be admired as a classic Haute Horlogerie design. The Malte chronometer comes with a fine maroon or black alligator mississipiensis strap fitted with a classic, prong-type buckle in 18K white or pink gold. Technical Specifications References 47120/000G-9098 and 47120/000R-9099 Caliber caliber 1141, hand-wound mechanical Movement thickness 5,60 mm Movement diameter 27 mm, or 12 lines Indications hours, minutes and seconds; chronograph seconds hand and 30-minute totalizer Rate frequency 18,000 v.p.h. Power reserve 48 hours Movement jewelling 21 Case 18K white rhodium-plated gold or pink gold Water resistance to 30 m (~ 100 feet) Dial pale silver finish, center engine-turned by hand; totalizer and subdial with fine snailed pattern Strap black or maroon alligator mississipiensis leather Buckle prong-type, in 18K white or pink gold Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 10:26 AM This article was taken from a french web site and google translated. Ebel SPORTWAVE. The athletic hour according to Ebel. December 3 2004. Leading collection proudly carrying the signature inimitable of the Architects of the Time, Sportwave gives a new and dynamic breath to the ebel emblem: the wave. Done for the action and the requirements of the life of today, Sportwave illustrates the values of the brand: authenticity, creativity, raffinement. This new line, clearly targeted on a young clientele, understands models sport that bring to the basic qualities of the brand a new lighting. The legendary motive « vague » dear to Ebel was redessiné for him to give a resolutely modern aspect. Thus the maillons rippling bracelet in brushed steel are tailored to the perfection to obtain an incomparble sensation of flexibility and of comfort to the wrist. Pure, the face is proposed in a selection of timeless colors and brightens itself polite indices applied to the hand and of Arabic figures for a big legibility. The polite glasses is endowed with six silky, true screws recognition brand of the line. Available in versions Lady, Gent and Chronograph, all the models are fashioned in steel or in steel and now, and shelter a movement to quartz. Unquestionably chic and sport by nature, the model Lady is endowed with a set glasses of 36 diamonds and of a made pearly face set of 11 diamonds. Of an orange one bursting, the face of the model Gent possesses a fresh and dynamic charm. The chronograph is dressed of a matching black face of three meters, elevated, just as the needle of the seconds to the center, of orangish keys. The form ergonomique and contemporary of the push-buttons returns the access to the particularly easy and done functions echo to fluid design of the maillons of the bracelet. This new launch and his highly symbolic name show the ebel vision: to create the tendencies rather than to follow them… The collection To the occasion of this launch, Ebel proposes the following versions: - models Chronograph – 43,20 mm of diameter – face money, black or orange – polite glasses – bracelet in brushed steel - models Gent – 39,40 mm of diameter – face money, black or orange – polite glasses – bracelet in brushed steel - models Lady – 28,40 mm of diameter – face money, black, orange or made pearly set of 11 diamonds – polite or set glasses – bracelet in brushed steel Movement to quartz Etanchéité to 100 meters Freezes flat saphir, treatment anti-reflection Polite Crown in steel Melts can with lives and logo «Sportwave» Bracelet in steel with fermoir deploying to three blades in polite brushed steel Needles with Great-super-luminova Index with Great-super-luminova for the orange faces Suggested Retail Prices: [*]SportWave Gent steel face orange on steel: 1100 Euros TTC [*]SportWave Stopwatch steel face black on steel: 1500 Euros TTC [*]SportWave Lady steel face makes pearly index diamonds glasses set diamonds: 2700 Euros TTC Source: La Cote des Montres Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 10:30 AM This article was taken from a french web site and google translated. Ebel BELUGA BARREL Lines sensual for a precious delight. December 3 2004. Perfectly in line with the changeable relation that the women maintain with shows to them, Ebel proposes a new one and delicate variation on the theme of the Beluga Barrel. The line Beluga is a balance model refined, mixes inimitable of soft sensualité and of feminine elegance whatever his form, round or lightly arched in his version barrel The made pearly face dressing the illustrated models here brightens itself of a splendid decorated motive that elevates a brightness iridescent, himself put in value by 13 indices in diamonds. The design of this slender can reinforces the purity feeling, while the incomparble sensation of softness and of comfort that obtains the bracelet does this watch a delight to carry. What's more of these undisputable attractions, the can of the model in now generous yellow framed of two rows of rocks étincelantes: 116 diamonds for a total weight of 0,72 carats. Of what to underline with delicacy bend them voluptuous of the form barrel and intensify the brightness of this very pretty model for some to do a jewel to leaves entire. Small delicious, resolutely irresistible, this all last interpretation of the Beluga Barrel returns to the perfection the femininity according to Ebel. Specifications: [*]Movement to quartz [*]Water resistent: to 30 meters [*]Freezes saphir [*]Can and bracelet in steel or in now yellow 18 cts [*]Available with bracelet in alligator [*]Case dimensions: 33,40 mm (length) Suggested Retail Prices [*]Version in steel face makes pearly decorated sun index diamonds: 2,180 Euros TTC [*]Version in now yellow face makes pearly decorated sun index diamonds glasses set diamonds: 11,880 Euros TTC Source: La Cote des Montres

Posted by: Neo Dec 4 2004, 08:37 AM Rugged luminous timepieces produced originally for military men are now a big hit with civilians as well. By Wei Koh, Straits Times December 4, 2004 ONE IS a coveted brand of luxury sports watch. The other manufactures low-cost but robust timepieces for the United States army. On the surface, Officine Panerai and PLT Traser appear to have little in common. But both brands have their roots in creating luminous compounds that help soldiers to tell time in the depths of the ocean or in the dead of night. As with Ray Ban sunglasses and Jeeps, Panerai and Traser have also successfully made the leap from the military world to civilian consumer culture. It's a fact of modern warfare that a significant number of skirmishes and operations take place in the night. This has created a need for instruments such as watches and sighting equipment that emit a small amount of self-perpetuating light. The Officine Panerai brand was founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai in Florence, Italy. The watches cost from $6,000 to $30,000 each and are only available at The Hour Glass, Cortina and Sincere shops here. In 1910, the Panerai family patented a luminous substance made from zinc sulphide and radium bromide called radiomir. Radiomir was encased in glass tubes to increase its resistance to ageing and used to create luminous sights for naval guns for the Italian navy. In 1936, Panerai built the Radiomir watch for the navy's special torpedo group. This watch featured cases and movements made by Rolex but with a special dial that used radiomir markers and hands. Radiomir watches were used by commandos to calculate dive times while guiding underwater torpedoes towards their targets. In 1949, Panerai received a patent for the luminor material, a tritium-based compound that replaced radiomir. Panerai made slightly fewer than 300 watches. In 1992, facing a cut in the military's budget and in a bid to stay solvent, it issued limited runs to consumers. Watch models were named after the luminous compound that made them famous - the Luminor and the Radiomir. The hottest watch this year might well be the 45mm Radiomir Black Seal, which pays tribute to the first Panerai worn by Italy's commandos in the 1930s. The watch - expected to hit Singapore by year-end and costing about $7,000 - is simple and unerringly masculine and glows like a traffic signal in the dark. Singapore's Panerai brand manager Fabien Levrion says: 'We understand the DNA of our brand has to do with creating luminous, robust watches that are rooted in our military history.' But while Panerai commemorates the military history of the past, yet another brand is steeped in contemporary military culture. This brand is called Traser and it makes watches for some of the world's most elite fighting forces. Since the creation of the luminous compound tritium, the US army has used watches painted with this radioactive substance. On April 12, 1988, a security officer in the US, monitoring a huge cache of these watches, received a shocking Geiger counter reading. Apparently many watches were emitting up to 100 times the 50 dpm (decays per minute) radiation level considered safe. The watches were quickly destroyed. Mr Jim Bickman, the chief executive officer of American company Stocker and Yale which was contracted to supply these watches, was in a state of panic. But he found a solution - an extremely bright but safe light source made from tritium gas contained in small glass tubes. These tubes were originally used in compass needles and for rifle sights for the M-16 carbine. In 1989, he submitted his new watches with hands and markers incorporating these glass tubes for testing with the US army. It was found that while these watches were many times brighter than previous models, no radioactivity could be measured on their surface. And the manufacturer claims that this permanent light source or PLT is 100 times brighter than traditional tritium paint and maintains its intense luminosity without batteries or solar power. Mr Bickman's company continued to evolve its design and in 1994 created the Navigator wristwatch which has since become standard equipment for US army rangers, army special forces and Navy SEALS, among others. As with trench coats and dog tags, the Navigator watches were brought to the civilian market by military enthusiasts. Between 1989 and 2000, one million of Mr Bickman's watches went to the armed forces and a further 500,000 were sold to civilians. Today, these watches are sold under the Luminox and Traser brand names. Unlike Panerai, they are a lot more affordable, ranging in price from about $500 to $1,000 each. Traser watch Says Mr Yusoff Mohammad, an army officer: 'I never really liked wristwatches until I saw the Traser. For me, it oozes a sort of paramilitary cool. 'When I found out they are used by so many elite forces, I had to have one.' Source: Straits Times

Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 04:46 PM ANTIQUORUM NEW YORK ACHIEVES ITS BEST YEAR IN THE UNITED STATES - New York office exceeds previous year’s turnover by 70% - New York, December 1, 2004 — In an exciting finish for Antiquorum worldwide’s 30th Anniversary year, the New York office held a highly competitive and extremely successful auction which achieved an exceptional total of US$5,360,046 (€ 4,041,474) for its Important Collector’s Wristwatches, Pocket Watches &Clocks sale. In addition, Antiquorum USA saw an unprecedented US$16,960,348 in its total annual sales, a 70% turnover increase over the previous year. Bidders from around the world, including Europe, the United States, Asia, and North Africa, keenly vied for 336 lots, of which sold pieces hammered 116% by value. For the third consecutive sale, lots offered without reserve achieved remarkable results. In addition, along with telephone and live auction bidders, over 233 registered online bidders purchased a total $US 900,000 (€ 678,600). “We are extremely excited to see that contemporary and vintage watches are increasing in popularity in the United States,” said Osvaldo Patrizzi, Antiquorum’s founder and chairman. “With such tremendous interest from American buyers, we expect to continue to see strong growth in this market.” The auction’s top four lots were all Patek Philippes – three wristwatches and a pocket chronometer, the star being the last timepiece offered for the day, a Ref. 1518, 1st series, which fetched $US 401,000 (€ 302,354). Another highly sought-after brand was International Watch Co., (IWC) with two limited edition wristwatches: Lot 310, the IWC “Il Destriero Scafusia” achieved $US170,000 (€ 128,180), and lot 309, an IWC “Grand Complication,” Ref. 3770 sold for $US103,500 (€ 78,039). Vacheron Constantin timepieces did extremely well, with the watch manufacturer represented in the top sales with lot 226, a “Les Complications Tourbillon Squelette” wristwatch which fetched US$108,100 (€ 81,507). In addition, Rolex watches were again keenly sought after, with lot 283, a so-called “Jeanne-Claude Killy,” Oyster Chronograph Anti-Magnetique which sold for $US 92,000 (€ 69,368). Antiquorum continues its unwavering focus to provide innovative services to clients worldwide. With services such as real-time, online bidding, as well as direct and responsive contact with expert horologists, Antiquorum continues to use cutting-edge auction methods to address the needs of its expanding, international clientele. The “Top 11 Lots” for Antiquorum’s December 1 auction are as follows: Lot 336 US$ 401,000 / € 302,354 Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, Ref. 1518, 1st series. Production of this reference started in 1941. Extremely fine and very rare astronomic, 18K pink gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar and chronograph with moon phases. Lot 335 US$ 258,000 / € 194,532 Patek Philippe & Cie, Ref. 2438-1. Produced circa 1960, an extremely fine and rare, astronomic, water-resistant, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with center-seconds, and perpetual calendar with moon phases. Lot 334 US$ 241,500 / € 182,091 Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, Ref.1436, first generation, sold on May 8, 1961. Production started in 1940. Extremely fine and rare 18K yellow gold wristwatch with square button, split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register, and tachometer. Lot 327 US$ 197,500 / € 148,915 Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, Ref. 961, made in 1989. Exceptionally fine and equally rare 18K gold, keyless, astronomic, minuterepeating pocket chronometer with instantaneous perpetual calendar, moon phases, 24-hour indications and Earnshaw-type spring detent chronometer escapement with free-sprung helical balance spring. Lot 310 US$ 170,000 / € 128,180 International Watch Co., Schaffhausen, “Il Destriero Scafusia", No. 67 of 125. Produced in a limited edition of 125 examples in 1993. Extremely fine and rare, oversized, astronomic, minute-repeating, 18K pink gold wristwatch with split-seconds chronograph, secular perpetual calendar and moon phases, and one-minute, flying tourbillon regulator. Lot 332 US$ 111,500 / € 84,071 Patek Philippe & Cie, Genève, “Arabic Leap Year, Ref. 3450, second series. Production started in 1981. Fine and rare astronomic, self-winding, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, moon phases, and Arabic numerals for the leap year indication. Lot 226 US$ 108,100 / € 81,507 Vacheron & Constantin, Genève, “Les Complications Tourbillon Squelette,”. Produced in the 2000s. Extremely fine and rare, skeletonized, water-resistant 18K pink gold wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator, and 42 hour power reserve indicator. Lot 309 US$ 103,500 / € 78,039 International Watch Co., Schaffhausen, “Grande Complication,” No. 18/50. Produced in a limited edition of 50 examples in 1993. Very fine and extremely rare, astronomic, “Grande Complication,” self-winding, platinum wristwatch, with minute-repeating, chronograph, secular perpetual calendar, and moon phases. Lot 241 US$ 97,750 / € 73,703 Officine Panerai, Firenze 1860, “Radiomir Tourbillon,” Ref. OP 6547. Produced in a limited edition of only two examples in 2001. Very fine and extremely rare oversized, platinum wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator under three golden bridges. Lot 250 US$ 94,300 / € 71,10 Franck Muller, Genève, “Tourbillon-Split-Seconds-Perpetual-Equation of Time” Ref. 1790 QPTR. Produced in the 1990s. Extremely fine and rare, astronomic, platinum wristwatch with one-minute tourbillon regulator, co-axial round button split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phases, and retrograde equation of time. Lot 283 US$ 92,000 / € 69,368 Rolex “Oyster Chronograph Anttimagnetique”. The so called “Jean-Claude Killy,” produced in the 1950s. Very fine and rare, tonneau-shaped, water-resistance, 18K yellow gold wristwatch with round button chronograph, registers, and triple date. * Exchange rate used for the purposes of this press release only: 1 US$ = SFr. 1.14 / Euro .752 / HK$ 7.8 / UK£ .5272 / Yen 106.4

Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 01:22 PM A bit old news but still interesting (Neo). IBM & Citizen Watch develop Linux-based "WatchPad" Oct. 11, 2001 Tokyo -- (press release excerpt) -- Citizen Watch and IBM Research today announced that they have started the research collaboration on Linux Watch technology and jointly developed their first prototype, called "WatchPad" to further explore a new type of personal information access devices for the pervasive computing era. (enlarged photo available here) IBM Research first demonstrated the Linux Watch last year, illustrating the viability of the operating system across all platforms, from large enterprise servers, to medium-sized and small servers, workstations, desktop systems, laptops and the smallest intelligent devices. Citizen Watch is the first company that decided to work with IBM Research to enhance current features and develop new application technologies for the intelligent watch. Citizen Watch will explore the possibility of commercializing next generation watches as communication devices in the future. IBM Research will support Citizen Watch with its expertise in hardware and software, including system design, low power architecture, reliable and flexible IT infrastructure for future pervasive computing and communication applications. Among the technologies Citizen Watch has developed for the WatchPad are packaging design and component design including display and input device. IBM Research has provided technologies including hardware architecture, system design, and software, including Linux. Two companies plan to collaborate with key universities by sharing the WatchPad technology for joint research. By working with universities, Citizen and IBM Research hope to accelerate progress in developing next generation intelligent devices. Source: http://www.linuxdevices.com/news/NS6580187845.html Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 01:49 PM Wristwatch Television Catch the game on this diminutive wristwatch TV. The specially designed micro tuner and headphone antenna (must be connected to wristwatch TV for reception) pull in stations. Digital display shows time and date, and Thin Film Transistor technology displays a crisp 280 x 220 resolution picture on its 1 1/2" color monitor. Volume and channel buttons are on the side; time, channel and volume appear in the top LCD. Receives both UHF and VHF channels. Fully charged, the watch provides one hour of viewing; or, extend viewing up to three hours with the battery powered (four AA batteries not included) docking station. Docking station also plugs into AC for unlimited viewing and to recharge the watch (2 1/2-3 hour charge time). Nylon band, hook-and- loop closures. As with other televisions that use an antenna, ours works best in areas with strong broadcast signals and minimal interference. 3/4" H x 1 3/4" W x 1 3/4" L. (3/4 oz.) Retail: $179.99 - $199.95 Source: http://www.i4u.com/section-viewarticle-42.html

Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 12:53 PM Watch collectors find they can make valuable fashion statements. A watch's primary function might be to keep track of hours, minutes and seconds, but its style, system and statement are hardly secondary factors. That was a lesson collectors learned with quartz watches. Advancements in timekeeping techniques -- some of which date back centuries -- barely budged until the 1970s, when quartz watches came on the scene, replacing the tension-controlled springs found in mechanical watches with a crystal in an electric field to oscillate at a constant frequency. Almost immediately, the demand for mechanical watches waned and a slowdown in production of those watches followed. But what happens when people stop making something? "Everyone wants one," says Edward Faber, co-owner of New York's Aaron Faber Gallery, which sells vintage, collectible and estate jewelry. "They want one for the nostalgia of a mechanical watch." That made such watches "collectible," and in a world of expensive toys and eccentric hobbies, collectible often is a code word for valuable. "Now if you have a Daytona Rolex or Patek Philippe moon-phase (watch) -- if you have the means to acquire these -- when you walk into a board meeting in Los Angeles, London, Paris or Italy, it gives you cachet," says Faber, who wrote "American Wristwatches: Five Decades of Style and Design" (Schiffer). The private market for high-end mechanical watches started to skyrocket, with particular interest from European and Asian collectors, and auction houses recognized the trend. The value continues to increase so dramatically, according to Faber, that watches made in the 1950s and '60s that cost hundreds of dollars then, are now worth thousands. "The Rolex Explorer -- a simple black military watch -- sold for $300 in the '70s. Now you can spend $6-, $7- or $8,000. You could have bought a Patek Philippe moon-phase full-price for $2,000 in the early '80s; now you cannot find them for less than $100,000," says Faber. A Cartier Tortue Minute Repeater, a rare minute-repeating wristwatch in 18- karat yellow gold from the 1920s, was auctioned earlier this year for $640,500. A luxury watch is an acceptable -- yet noticeable -- sign of wealth for a man looking for a counterpart to a woman's diamond ring or tennis bracelet. "A big gold bracelet or pinky ring a man can't really wear. But it's OK to wear a 1930s Cartier or Vacheron Constantin," observes Faber. It's a perpetual challenge to mix modernity with a brand's heritage and integrity, all equally important elements when you're hoping to design a future collectible, says Stanislas de Quercize, president and CEO of Cartier North America. For the 100th anniversary of Cartier's first wristwatch, the Santos, the company unveiled an updated version with its classic square face and screws that stand out, representing the rivets on an aircraft that Louis Cartier's friend Alberto Santos- Dumont would have flown. Cartier created the watch so Santos-Dumont would be able to tell time while he was in his plane and unable to reach his pocket watch. Brian Pier was on vacation in the Netherlands in the early 1980s when he shelled out about $30 for his first Swatch, a quirky watch with a black face, gold hands and a black plastic band that he expected would last two weeks. That Swatch still runs, and Pier has changed the batteries only twice. It sits among his collection of almost 1,000 Swatches -- his favorites are the artist series watches, particularly the Sam Francis splatter-painting Swatch. Source: IndyStar.com (by Samantha Critchell)

Posted by: Neo Dec 2 2004, 04:06 PM 'Rolex' spam taps into bling-bling culture Published: October 25, 2004, 9:37 AM PDT By Will Sturgeon Special to CNET News.com Rolex watches have long been seen as a must-have product among the aspiring nouveau riche--but the brand, built upon high standards of quality and prohibitive costs, is in danger of being sullied by unsolicited e-mail. In the same way that Viagra has been a brand made synonymous with spam, so Rolex is in danger of becoming a generic byword for unsolicited e-mails. A vast number of spam e-mails offering either cut-price Rolex watches or fakes are currently flooding people's in-boxes--growing in number more than any other kind of message, according to e-mail security company MessageLabs. The deluge appears to have begun in earnest last week. Natasha Staley, information analyst at MessageLabs, said the company has seen this sort of spam explode on the scene. "Of all the brands out there being exploited by spam, Rolex is now by far the most common," she said. Staley believes the marketers behind the products may be trying to cash in on "bling-bling culture," which is fueling a desire for famous-name jewelery and flashy trinkets and accessories--whether fake or genuine. Many of the offers are promising watches, described as indistinguishable from the real thing, for as little as $75. Behind the campaign would appear to be a Web site called OnlineReplicaStore.com, which also offers watches from other manufacturers, including Bulgari, Cartier and Chopard. At least six seemingly different e-mail campaigns link to OnlineReplicaStore.com, through variously disguised URLs. The owners of the site could not immediately be reached for comment. Forgeries are nothing new. In the past, many travelers have returned from destinations, typically in the Far East, with fake Rolex watches, but the launch of spam campaigns to sell such products threatens far greater market saturation. A statement on the Rolex Web site claims: "Official Rolex watches are sold through official Rolex jewelers and are not available on the internet." But for many, fakes will be close enough, and their proliferation will do enough to dilute the exclusivity of the Rolex brand. "These products are appealing to the kind of people who buy fake Burberry caps. They probably don't care that they are fake," Staley said. "The Rolex brand is built upon exclusivity, and this does erode away at the brand." As with all spam marketing, however, consumers should be aware that there is no guarantee the product bought will even turn up, and MessageLabs' Staley warned against handing credit card details to spam marketers. "If these people are prepared to rip off watches, they are probably prepared to rip off credit cards," she said, sounding a warning to any consumers tempted by some cheap "bling." Will Sturgeon of Silicon.com reported from London. Source: http://about-cnet.com.com/Rolex+spam+taps+..._3-5425119.html (thanks barnowl) Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 11:55 AM Cacharel Launches a Watch Collection December 03, 2004 After jewellery in Spring 2004, Cacharel is confirming its launch in the jewellery-watch world with a collection of watches, designed and manufactured with the collaboration of Christian Bernard group. The story of the brand began in 1962 when the designer from Provence decided to create his women’s ready-to-wear label, giving it the name of a bird from Camargue. Creativity, femininity and daring characterise this first watch collection, punctuated with original pieces. Like the world of fashion and dreams, it is oriented towards young (in spirit not necessarily age), dynamic and urban women who are interested in and sensitive to fashion. Each model bares reference to ready-to-wear and accessories: the watchstrap fabrics are all exclusively Cacharel and are only available in limited edition; the buckles use the same designs as the luggage and bags; the lining and the dials play with the label’s colour codes: ice blue for freshness and optimism and chocolate brown to illustrate the timeless character of the label. Three creative spirits prevailed at the launch of this collection: "Design" line and "Origins" line The spirit of "Design" Modern femininity in an expressive and contemporary style, for this design line with pure and simple elegance; these minimalist, glamorous and soft models bring to life all the sensuality of the Cacharel woman. The refined alliance between materials and shapes evokes dressmaking ateliers. The spirit of "Origins" Revisiting Cacherel memories and the flowers of famous Liberty prints, this line perfectly illustrates the sentimental and romantic spirit of the label, where lightness, femininity and softness express nostalgia for dreams and the past. The label rekindles its links with origins and modernism through materials, shapes and decoration on the cases, straps and dials. "Pop" line The spirit of "Pop" A daring and fun line in a truly Cacharel style where the shimmering colours of the fabric straps and a graphic design provide the freshness and fun. The straps follow the ready-to-wear trends and deserve their own catwalk. Creative and accessible models for modern women who follow fashion whilst imposing their style, carried by the optimism of youth. Source: Emotionfrance.com Press Release Courtesy of europa star Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 12:05 PM Dubey President Cinette Robert Honored by IIPP The International Institute for Promotion and Prestige (www.iipp.org) was founded in Geneva in 1963 and is active in 67 countries, with members drawn from political, diplomatic, scientific, cultural and economic circles. The IIPP aims to find in countries around the world people, institutions, groups and companies whose activities, accomplishments and work deserve to be brought to the attention of a wide audience through the award of an international distinction. This week they honored Mrs. Cinette Robert, president of Dubey & Schaldenbrand with the “MERIT FOR DEVELOPMENT OF THE WATCHMAKING TRADITION” distinction award. The award was given at a ceremony in La Chaux de Fonds. A new watch by Dubey was also unveiled to mark the event. Courtesy of timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 12:11 PM Omega Official Timekeeper of World Record Attempt Omega once again reaffirms its commitment to brand ambassador Ellen MacArthur as her Official Timekeeper as she prepares to set off on her non-stop solo round-the-world sailing record attempt. Ellen will be keeping a sharp eye on her Omega watch over several stressful months as she attempts to beat the existing record of 72 days, 22 hours, 54 minutes and 22 seconds set by Francis Joyon on board IDEC earlier this year. The 75ft trimaran B&Q has been berthed in Falmouth (UK) since Monday 15th November whilst Ellen and her team await a suitable weather window to carry her south past the Equator. Standby Mode shifted up to AMBER today, with a possible departure this weekend to be confirmed during the day. As Ellen tellingly revealed earlier this week, "Half my mind is out there already". Omega will accompany Ellen both on her wrist and on the master clock installed inside B&Q, which will count down the vital days, minutes, hours and seconds remaining during her gruelling solo voyage. Ellen MacArthur has been an ambassador for the brand since October 2002 and Omega has already acted as her Official Timekeeper during the Kingfisher2 Jules Verne record attempt in January 2003 and her east-west solo transatlantic record attempt on B&Q earlier this year. Only 6 solo sailors have attempted to race around the globe non-stop on multihulls - the fastest and most extreme boats on the oceans - and only one of these succeeded in the pursuit of this world record. Omega is proud to accompany her on this exceptional journey. Source: Omega Press release Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 12:12 PM Davosa Flieger Power Reserve The Ref. 160.403.17 is the latest from Davosa. Featuring a stainless steel case that measures 44mm X 11.2mm, this Flieger Power Reserve model features the hand-wound ETA caliber 6498 (nee UNITAS). The crystal is mineral and it is water resistant to 50 meters. Courtesy of timezone Posted by: Neo Dec 3 2004, 12:15 PM Dubey & Schaldenbrand Aerodyn Trophee Dubey & Schaldenbrand took the opportunity to unveil a new watch last week during the awards ceremony to honor its president, Mrs. Cinette Robert. The Aerodyn Trophee features the NOS movement Aurore 19, which was the first tonneau-shaped caliber with direct-drive center seconds. This limited edition consists of 175 pieces in 18kt rose gold. The curved dial features a guilloche finish, and the luminescent hands are in the same color as the 4 gold-dust numerals, reminiscent of a sundial. It has an AR coated sapphire crystal and display back. The movement features a gear-train bridge with the coat-of-arms of Ponts-de-Martel. Courtesy of timezone

Posted by: Neo Dec 2 2004, 03:27 AM Take your Time Few things say more about a man than his watch. Its character, look and style can give others a peek into a man's background (and priorities) without having to ask a single question. That is why purchasing a watch is such a personal -- and important -- decision. Of course, there are men out there who only need a watch to tell time, and for those guys a watch whose price ends with .99 would suffice. But for the rest of us, a watch has a more prominent meaning (and for the select few who dabble in the Rolex territory, it can even be an investment opportunity). We all understand the basic concept of a watch (it tells time, most work with quartz movement and are battery operated, etc.). A deeper understanding, though, can help you recognize the subtle differences between different timepieces. Comprehending these intricacies will not only help you make the best possible purchase according to your needs, but may even save you money. So here are eight questions you need answered when it comes to watches. This crash course won't necessarily make you an expert on the subject, but it will help you become a very well informed consumer. 1- Is a Rolex worth the high price? There are two possible answers to this question, and I still haven't figured out which one is right. Why do some people automatically say "no"? Because the Rolex corporation artificially inflates the price of its watches by limiting the yearly supply of some of its collections (the Daytona is notorious for being near impossible to find), leading to scarcity in the market. It is a strategy similar to the one employed by De Beers, the world's largest diamond retailer, which limits the supply of diamonds on the market to keep prices high (even if De Beers has plenty stored in its safes). Rolex also meticulously (and some say dictatorially) controls its authorized dealer system to make sure that all watches are sold at its suggested retail price. Any dealer that sells a Rolex at a discount is subject to having his dealer status revoked. So since it is nearly impossible to get a new real Rolex at a discount, you will always pay a premium for the name (thanks to smart marketing by Rolex execs) and not necessarily for the craftsmanship (though it is still very high). That is why many watch experts say that, for the cost of a Rolex, you can get a higher caliber mechanical watch from a different company. On the other hand, some firmly believe that a Rolex is worth the price because it is still a premium watch made with the highest level of craftsmanship. The artificially inflated prices also help Rolexes maintain their extremely high resale value. And, of course, you can't underestimate the cachet value of a Rolex. The status and prestige it projects can, in certain people's eyes, justify its exorbitant price. More than any other regularly produced watch, owning a Rolex is an investment and a status symbol, more than it is a teller of time. If you want to buy a watch purely on its mechanical merits, nothing beats a Piaget or a Jaeger. 2- What do "chronometer" and "chronograph" mean? Chronometer is a designation given to a watch that has the highest standard of precision. The designation is given to automatic and mechanical movement watches, not those that run with quartz movement. A watch carrying the chronometer certification has passed vigorous tests demanded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (COSC). A chronometer's mechanical movement is close to perfection, so the time it displays is almost always accurate (unlike other self-winding or automatic watches), and therefore carries a premium price over non-chronometer watches. The 15 days of rigorous tests conducted by the COSC include testing its performance under different temperatures, different positions, and even under water. A chronograph designation is often confused with a chronometer one, though they are completely different. A chronograph is basically a watch with stopwatch capabilities. It displays different counters or mechanisms for measuring elapsed time. Counters can register seconds, minutes and hours. This gives its owner the ability to time anything he wants. 3- Are serial numbers important? Most premium watches (and all luxury watches) have a serial number. A very important component, it identifies your watch and is one way of ensuring that your purchase is legitimate. All authorized dealers of premium watches have access to a database from their respective watch manufacturers, listing all the serial numbers of all their watches. If you spend a good amount of money on a timepiece, you should make sure that your watch is the real deal by contacting the manufacturer or visiting an authorized shop that can look up the serial number of any potential purchase. 4- Should I buy a watch on the Internet? You can get deep discounts on brand-name watches on the Web that you simply can't get in retail stores or through authorized dealers. The main reason is because most online watch retailers buy watches in bulk from authorized wholesalers. Wholesalers clear out their inventory at discounted prices, and the savings are passed on to you, the consumer. Authorized dealers must sell watches at their full retail value or risk losing their licenses (watch companies do this in order to maintain pricing levels and control brand distribution, and understandably so). The drawback of buying a watch on the Net is that, more often than not, its serial number is polished off in order to protect the wholesaler (who is selling the watches to unauthorized retailers) from being identified by the watch manufacturer. Without a serial number, a watch cannot be serviced or repaired by an authorized repair shop or the manufacturer. Resale values will consequently be lower, and you might have a hard time getting your watch insured. The worst part is that without a serial number your watch loses its warranty from the manufacturer. Luckily, most reputable e-tailers carry their own warranty that matches and often supersedes anything the manufacturer gives you. If you do decide to purchase a watch online, it is important that you do so from a well-established online retailer, like Ashford.com, to guarantee that your warranty is honored (and that the product is legitimate). If it makes you feel better, remember that most premium watches are built to last for years (if not decades), so neither the manufacturer's nor the retailer's warranty will extend as long as you'll probably need it to. 5- How can I tell if I have a quality watch? The classic definition of a "good" watch generally refers to a watch with mechanical movement. Most mechanical watches use an intricate system of gears and springs that rely on mechanical energy to operate. Because of their craftsmanship, these watches are given higher regard because they capture the fine art of watch-making. They command a higher premium as a result. But mechanical watches, by their very nature, are often inaccurate (when there is no movement, such as your arm swinging, mechanical watches stop and require winding). In fact, a quartz watch (a simpler and less expensive movement, which uses a battery that sends electric currents to a small quartz crystal to ensure timing accuracy) is much more accurate than a mechanical watch, but is sold at a lower cost. Quartz watches are cheaper because they are not perceived as "sophisticated" by connoisseurs. But who cares? At least they are reliable and accurate. If you are set on mechanical movement, know that most popular mechanical watches that are manufactured nowadays use automatic movement, which means they wind themselves thanks to the movement of the wearer. Without getting too technical, I recommend you check out the offerings of Swiss watchmakers for a "good" watch. They are made with the highest standards in the world. With the consolidation that is occurring in the industry, most well-known brands are owned by a small group of companies. This means you can get the same level of craftsmanship of a higher priced watch by buying its lower priced cousin in the company product line. For example, if you can't afford a Movado, you can buy its less expensive counterpart by Esquire (it is made by the same company, but since Movado is the more prestigious brand, it carries a premium price). In fact, I would say that a $250 Esquire offers the quality of a watch priced at $1,000 or more. Similarly, you can purchase a Tissot (a trademark of the Swatch Group) at a much lower price than an Omega (also a Swatch Group brand) without compromising much quality. 6- How should I care for my watch? A premium watch is an intricate instrument and should be treated as such. Too often, people assume that because they forked over $1,000 or more on a watch, they never have to take care of it. That's like thinking that you never need to bring a Ferrari to a dealership for an oil change because you put down $200,000 to buy it. The biggest misconception when it comes to watch care is assuming that watches can be waterproof. A watch is not waterproof, nor is the most advanced submarine in the world. It is water resistant. Every watch carries a designation on how much water the moisture seals can withstand. Quality watches will offer resistance from 100 meters to 1,000 meters. Humans can't go beyond 100 meters anyway, so high-depth ratings are more of a status symbol than of usefulness. If your watch does not have a depth indicator, do not take it into a pool or shower. In fact, unless you're a professional diver, don't bother taking a watch into a pool or sea. They contain more chlorine or salt than you ever want to expose your precious watch to. The elements can erode the lining of the case (consists of the essential parts of your watch, i.e. the dial, the face, etc.) and diminish the finish of your watch. If you must take your watch into water, make sure you rinse it with warm water immediately afterwards. Some other tips: Wash your watch in warm soapy water occasionally, to maintain its luster. Use a toothbrush to clean the bracelet. Have your watch serviced every three to five years. Like any high-precision instrument, it needs a tune-up to work perfectly. Store your watch in a soft cloth to prevent it from getting scratched or chipped. Avoid extreme temperatures or extreme temperature changes that can cause condensation. No matter how shock resistant a watch claims to be, never drop it to test it. Shock resistant designations are given to timepieces that can remain intact when dropped three feet onto a wooden floor; take the manufacturer's word for it. The cover of a watch's face, known as the crystal, is designed to protect the dial. There are three main types of crystal found in watches: acrylic, mineral and sapphire. Acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that does not prevent scratches, but allows scratches to be buffed out. Mineral crystal is glass, which is composed of several elements that aid in resisting scratches (it is seven times harder than acrylic crystal). It is generally found on more expensive watches. Sapphire crystal is the cover of choice for premium watches. It is the most expensive type of crystal and is three times harder than mineral crystal. It is made of an extremely durable synthetic material that makes it shatterproof and scratch resistant (not scratchproof). Some have a non-reflective film to prevent glare. 8- What is the legal definition of a Swiss watch? Like Champagne, Bordeaux or Port, certain products have stringent standards (based on location or quality) that must be met before carrying a particular designation. The Swiss have several organizations to ensure the integrity and reputation of Swiss watchmakers. The accepted standard for what constitutes a Swiss-made watch is a Swiss movement, set into its case in Switzerland, by a manufacturer of Swiss origin. A Swiss movement is defined as a movement that was assembled in Switzerland (by a Swiss-based manufacturer), and whose Swiss movement parts constitute 50% or more of a movement's total value. Movements that meet this requirement will carry a stamp (on the watch's face or back of the case) with the words "Swiss," "Swiss Made," "Swiss Quartz," "Suisse," "Produit Suisse" or "Fabrique en Suisse." The former three are the most popular in North America. If your watch says "Swiss Movement," it means that the inside parts of the watch are Swiss, but that the case is not, therefore it cannot carry the other stamps. If the case is Swiss, but the movement is not, it will say "Swiss Case." Some other tidbits: If your watch has a "T" on its face, it means it has tritium, the greenish-white substance on the hands and numbers that glows in the dark. If the face has the letter "O," it means that the hourly markings on the dial are made of gold. Complicated, isn't it? Don't worry, once you purchase your watch, you can use all this information while you show off your shiny new timepiece. Happy shopping. Source: http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_1...ion_advice.html

Posted by: Neo Dec 1 2004, 05:17 PM Officine Panerai Radiomir 8 Days. Eight Days of powers! PANERAI Radiomir 8 Days Eight Days of powers for the most contemporary Panerai Radiomir. The Radiomir collection is enhanced by the 8 Days model, using an innovative movement which once more reaffirms the philosophy of Officine Panerai, firmly based on a functional simplicity achieved through “Haute Horlogerie” solutions. This is a return to the past, with the representation in a modern key of a mechanism which Officine Panerai has already experimented with the hand-wound 8-days movement. The Calibre used in the 1940’s was the Angelus, while the new model from Officine Panerai has a Jaeger-LeCoultre base. The complexity of the Radiomir 8 Days is the result of many factors. The case 45 millimetres in diameter and consists of three parts; it is fitted with the patented slim wire loop strap attachments which provide the maximum resistance and reliability. The roundness of the caseband with curved planes intersecting where the diameter is greatest, requires numerous operations, carried out by only the most expert craftsmen, since the smallest mistake in the polishing operation would irreparably damage the pleasing convexity of the watch. The screw back and the crown ensure water-resistance to 100 metres, a degree of water-tightness that is important for a piece which combines sporting qualities with elegance. Its unique style is reinforced by a leather strap with an over-sized buckle, the trapezoid design of which is inspired by that of the earliest models created by Officine Panerai. This horological adventure began in 1938 with the Radiomir made to order for the Royal Italian Navy, and the design returned in the late 1990’s, since when the production of this model has been planned to meet the demands of the public of enthusiasts, searching for pieces distinguished by a strong, sought-after personality. The debut of the Radiomir range of Officine Panerai’s latest historical dates back to 1997, with a model created a limited platinum edition with a Rolex movement. This piece is highly sought-after by collectors and sells for very high prices at international auction sales. In its turn the Radiomir 8 days is distinguished by its prestigious mechanical movement: The Panerai OP XIV calibre is actually based on JLC 1877 calibre, a hand-wound movement with a power reserve of eight days, a duration now considered standard for currently produced top-of-the-range watches. The finish of the movement is reinforced by its Côtes de Genève decoration, as well as by its burnished blued screws. A peculiarity is the unusual positioning of the graduated scale indicating the power reserve, which is fitted on the bridge of the movement and therefore visible through the sapphire glass porthole on the back of the watch. The dial of the Radiomir 8 Days is made using the technique employed by Panerai for its early watches: it is a sandwich dial, in that it consists of two superimposed discs, the upper one being perforated, while the lower one is covered with luminous material. The small seconds dial is at 9’clock in accordance with the traditional Officine Panerai positioning. Below, the Limited Edition Officine Panerai Radiomir 8Days in Platinum (5 pieces worldwide). Those Limited Edition (5 pieces) Radiomir 8 days watches in platinum were manufactured to celebrate Sincere Watch Ltd 50th Jubilee Anniversary (Singapore). On the back of the watch there is an additional little engraving that says "1954 2004", What a coincidence! The Radiomir 6154 "Egiziano" was too born in 1954, I guess that unknowingly to all, those 5 magnificent Radiomir pieces have a double birthday to celebrate! Officine Panerai Radiomir Models: Radiomir 2533 (1937-1938), Radiomir 3646 (1942), Radiomir 6152 (1948-1952), Radiomir 6154 (Egiziano 1954), Radiomir GPF 2/56 (1956), Radiomir PAM 21 (1997), Radiomir Split Seconds (1999), Radiomir GMT/Alarm (1999), Radiomir (2000), Radiomir Platinum (2000), Radiomir Zerograph (2000), Radiomir Tourbillon (2000), Radiomir Second Counter (2001), Radiomir Independent (2001), Radiomir Chrono (2003), Radiomir 8Days (2004). Source: GMT / Antiquorum Magazine (Winter Edition)