Hands-On With The Awesome Panerai Luminor Tourbillon
GMT Ceramica (PAM 396) - Source: Hodinkee
This could be my favorite Panerai of SIHH, and in my opinion, represents the very
best of what Panerai is about. The Luminor Tourbillon GMT Ceramica is exactly what
it sounds like, a ceramic tourbillon with a GMT function, but to me, it's a little bit
more. First, there is just something so appealing about Panerai's matte black ceramic
case against their brown aged strap. The combination is just killer.
Then, of course, there is the GMT function, which is one of my favorite complications
on any watch of any kind. But, what makes this watch really special is of course what
lays behind the sandwich dial on this PAM - the incredible Panerai P.2005 in-house
tourbillon movement. Notice we said "behind," as this tourbillon is indeed a secret
tourbillon that is invisible without taking the watch off. But, when you do take the
watch off to turn the PAM 396 over, you're in for a treat.
The P.2005 tourbillon movement, first introduced in 2007, has been entirely coated
in black to match the ceramic case, and it just looks mean. Also, you will notice that
most of the movement is hidden by the plate, and really only the tourbillon is visible,
along with the gold six-day power reserve indicator. This caliber in this configuration
is called the P.2005/B, indicating it as been coated in black, and we have to say, it
just looks great.
Back on the dial side, you will see a GMT hand, and AM/PM register for the second
timezone, and a running seconds at 9 o'clock. What makes that running seconds
display so cool is those small dots (see below for better picture) are actually tied to
the tourbillon's rotation and makes its revolution once per 30 seconds.
The PAM 396 is not a small watch by any means - in fact it is a full 48mm in diameter.
But, I suspect most people in the market for a Panerai tourbillon are perfectly
comfortable with a watch of this size. And, while big watches are not my thing, I
found this one surprisingly appropriate for my wrist and if one is to make an exception
about wearing a jumbo sized watch, it may as well be for a totally bad ass ceramic
hidden tourbillon like the PAM 396. Price is expected to be around $141,000.