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Revere

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Posts posted by Revere

  9. Inherited rolex

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    A non-OEM crystal would not really diminish the value. I really could not say for certain, but I would bet that there are many vintage Rolex watches out there running around with non-OEM crystals because the OEMs are getting increasingly hard and expensive to find.

  11. Good 5512/5513/7928 square/pointy CG cases?

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Yes he did say that his tropic ones are more expensive. But, if you look at how much that dial costs compared to others in a similar quality range, and how easy they are to get... I think they are pretty fairly priced. 

    I'm very eager to see the first few builds that come out of his parts. I'll be ordering a gilt 5513 dial come January or February, maybe a bit later, and will be very happy to share how that build goes. 

  14. 5513

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Here's his website. A full set of the V2 hands (what you want) will cost you $50, but they are worth every penny.

    http://blog.tc-sub.com/2012/05/tc-parts-list.html

    His email is tc670207@gmail.com

    Just a note, he's not exactly a rep dealer so he doesn't love working like one. I would take a look at his "rules and regulations" if you wanna call them that: http://blog.tc-sub.com/2012/05/email-tc.html

     

    Nice watch. Can't wait to see the new hands on it.

  17. Valjoux 72 stops running when crown is screwed down?

    in Movement Q&A

    Posted · Edited by Revere

    I have a little issue with a Vj72 build: every time I screw down the crown, the movement stops sporadically. As if it doesn't like when there is just a little bit of pressure on the stem from the crown.

     

    Any idea how I can fix this? The stem is already cut as short as possible, if I cut it even shorter, I won't be able to set the watch.

     

    Even when I screw the crown in just half way, the movement stops sporadically. If I just screw it down about 1/3, it keeps running.

    Is the stem perfectly concentric with the crown tube? That is to say, is the slot in the movement for the stem perfectly in line with the middle of the crown tube? I'm not sure what the physical consequences were but I had a similar issue once when I was assembling a watch in which the stem was crooked because the crown tube was just a hair lower in the case than the hole for the stem.

     

    Other than that, do you think it is the crown being screwed itself, or could it be something else that occurs as a result of the crown being screwed? Is the act of screwing in the crown moving the movement inside the case maybe touching the balance against the inner side of the case enough to stop it? (this seems unlikely because the v72 has the balance a fair bit inset into the movement)

     

     

  20. Best case to use for a 5517 build? (cartel?)

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted · Edited by Revere

    Just received one of the new cartels. Such an improvement. Would have been perfect if it had a hugher crown position. Can't beat it for the price though

    That is encouraging. How bad is the crown height?

     

    also, does anyone know where I could source an appropriately dimensioned 5517 bezel insert for a cartel case?

  22. Best case to use for a 5517 build? (cartel?)

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    If I wanted a 5517 on the cheap this is probably what I would go with today;   https://rwg.cc/topic/181702-the-updated-cartel-5513

    I pressed some stainless rods through the lug holes (enlarged to about 1.3 or 1.4mm) on an old Abay 5514 case and it worked out just fine. I slightly tapered the leading ends of the steel rods to help them start and knurled the other end with a fine tooth knurling wheel setup in my lathe. I pressed the tapered end through far enough so the tapered tip could be ground off even with the lug. The pieces of stainless rod stock were cut about 12mm longer than needed and carefully cut off and ground even with the lugs and polished after pressing them in. The rods are available from most watch part suppliers. Since knurling tools are not a common item you will need to devise a way to make the bars fit tight in the lug holes. Sometimes the holes are out of alignment enough to hold the bars in place.

    I cut a groove in a piece of wood (using a round wood rasp) to hold the case steady while pressing the rod through the lugs by using the feed on the drill press (not running!) to push the rod through the lugs...tighten the rod in the drill chuck to hold it. When starting to press the rod into the lug, run most of the rod up into the chuck so not much of the rod is extended and just expose as much of the rod as needed at a time, this will help prevent bending the rod. Be careful not to allow the chuck jaws to contact the case. You can also use a small steel or brass hammer to drive them in but it 'mushrooms' the end and can easily bend the rods or ding the case if you hit the rod off center. When the rod gets through one side you may have to slightly bend the rod to get it started in the other lug. Practice on a junk case and you will see that it is a lot easier than it sounds. The hardest part by far is trimming the ends of the rods and polishing the lugs without damage to the case.

    edit...I later removed the rods because I got tired of one piece straps pretty quick. This is something to think about if you have not used them.

     

     

    Thank you so much for the thorough advice on how to get this step done. One piece straps are what I usually prefer to wear, so I think I'll follow through with the fixed lugs. Seriously, thanks for the write up!

     

    I'd use a cartel case.  The "new" ones I have seen actually have CGs unlike the little "nubs" on the older ones.

    That's what I hear, yep. I'll have to compare it to helenarou's.

     

    Helenrou

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks for the input. I'll check it out

  23. Best case to use for a 5517 build? (cartel?)

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Thanks for the resource! sounds like the majority of the advice in the thread still holds, with exception of the fact that the cartel CGs are no longer so stubby.

     

    If I could source an MBW case that would be great but I doubt it'll pop up any time soon. I'll see if it is possible to source a rep 5517 with the updated cartel 5513 base case.

     

    Thanks again jack

  25. Tonnywatches, a "new" maker opinions?

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    I would jump on an albino 6542 dial so fast, it's ridiculous!

     

    If it's not "true gilt" I suspect that it's ink placed onto a brass plate, rather than the true method by which the black is usually produced on these dials. That is to say, I think that the gold coloring is actually brass, just the dial is not done through the true method. I'm just basing this off the "swiss ink" description and the fact that the gold coloring looks about as reflective as a gilt detail on a true dial.

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