alfa1

Speaking of Crowns....is there a certain go to guy for 7mm Sub Crowns ?

@SSTEEL Considering the nature of this hobby, I would highly suspect that name to be an alias.

@Pombok Well said. My own experience, the V6 was purchased for $565.00+$8.50 priority mail. A genuine bezel and genuine LV insert both In Rolex bubble paks $135.00 + $13.85 post. A close friend of mine was at that time a Maintenance Supervisor for United Airlines in Jedda Saudi Arabia. He purchased them at a AD in one of the Luxurious malls. As you are probably aware the Saudis replace most Rolex bezels with Diamond, Ruby or Emerald encrusted bezels and dials, my friend also a WIS was in awe of the panoply of spare dials and bezels. i have an ‘F’ series Submariner LN and side by side, even with an anal x20 forensic inspection they look identical, with the exception of the maxi dial and hands of course. The clasp is very passable as genuine. Cheers.

@Pombok, upon all you’ve mentioned there is one item that moves the TC to a much higher level, the Kensington High Dial, I’ve recently seen both side by side the difference is striking, in overhead light the Kensington High is alive and sparkling, even the dial printing sparkles at you, case up a “Top or Chronograph ETA 2824” and you have a piece that will fool all but the anal savants...oh and you can find all the parts for an ETA or Sellita to keep it in good order, I highly doubt that is the case with a 3135 copy. @APguy1 Its worth what you paid for it or more, depending on the buyer. From what I gather from the many forums, the V7 inner mid case machining is different than the V6, you cannot case a genuine 3135 movement in the V7.

RWG Crew, thanks for your response, as usual, always a helpful group on this board. Mike noticed my post and reached out to me, discussed my needs and now I have to send him my TC V6 LV all appears well, Mike certainly reaps high praise from the many posts I’ve read here and elsewhere. maybe he’s the next coming of the Ziggmeister.....Ha....Ha ?

Mike, how best to contact you, in need of some service work. thanks

Funny you mention....Houston i there a Watchsmith in Houston who will work on quality Replicas ? I’ve seen his comments and various reply’s to several on the boards. It appears he does very nice work and has access to OEM parts. Does anyone know if Mike is a Professional watchmaker or a WIS hobbyist ? (Nothing derogative in this comparison, but, it does make a difference) im in need of work on several pieces.

I doubt you will find a qualified watchmaker to do a complete disassembly clean and lubricate properly any Eta movement any cheaper than the price quoted. There are some who will do it cheaper, but I doubt they are schooled and certified on ETA movements, just my experience in L.A. having had 2824's and 2836's serviced and both having the Top grade Glycudur balance and Anachron main spring installed and calibrated in 4 positions, your quote is quite reasonable.

I noticed Rolesyshop on eBay has one, not used one, so can't say

Take a look at this, your question should be answered. http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?135901-Physical-compatibility-of-2824-2-and-2893-2 Unless you have experience modding watches, it's an iffy swap

Looks very close...maybe exact. When you start taking watches in for you service, what condition should they be ie: disassembled case only, a complete watch head?? How does one contact you for service, PM or email? What should the turn around time be? Should your customer research numbers ie: model and serial numbers? Is your pricing uniform or specific to each request? All parties should benefit from your efforts, Thank You

But of course there is never any variance of dimension in gen. SELs, new or used...?

Counter sinking the step is no longer necessary. Initially the first of the 24-7030 tube designed, utilized a cupronickel gasket that fit a boss under the tube housing and into the counter sink recess, the newer 24-7030 tube design incorporated the new spline grooves at the nose of the tube and also changed and created a step on the bottom, it was designed to be a thread stop. The gap when threaded into a case without the rubber "O" ring measures approx. .014" - .019" the "O" ring that fits the threaded tube that inserts against the casing measures .035" - .037" nominal It has a greater durometer rating (harder) than the other "O" rings, therefore you have approx. .015" - .020" crush, more than adequate to 600 - 800 ft, now keep in mind, the deeper you go the more pressure applied to all foreign mass, that includes the "O" ring it actually seals better at depth than at sea level. Been away awhile, other priorities....Yes, the replica collector forum and the board before that. Recently pulled the trigger on a TC LV Sub Waiting like everyone else

TC's is so good, that if Rollie were still making this model it would cause them nightmares, it's that close. I, like you, have been gone from the scene for many years, happened on TCs blog by accident', out of curiosity AND doubt started to compare his pieces with photos of the gen's, very hi res photos I might ad. I was totally amazed and pleasantly pleased to the point that I pulled the trigger on his latest version of the LV and look forward to its arrival. In the States it's $620.00 + $5.35 shipping he states 30-40 days after he puts you in the que. I understand from much reading he is a busy man who travels frequently in his business endeavors, but none the less takes care of his buyers. From what I have determined, he is extremely obsessed with the 16610 pre etched rehaut model, it's 99% !!!! No etched crown on the sapphire or engraveings in between the lugs @ 6 or 12. Hope this helps...like prodigal sons, we have returned.