hologramet

I understand you fully.. I did the same thing. I wish someone had pointed me in the right direction back then, therefore my recommendations.

Don't.. Green Scotchbrite is too loose. Brown Scotchbrite is ok. Red Scotchbrite is best. However neither are suited for precision work. For the same cost as using a Scotchbrite. Just invest 10-30 USD in a proper abrasive block. 1) it's is impossible to get "straight" lines w/ scotchbrite = looks sloppy 2) it will give brushed look to the upper part of the side of the links. (E.g. Rolex = no go.)

Scotchbrite is excellent, the added benefit of abrasive blocks is that it's much easier to stay 100% straight and not deviate. I used scotchbrite for >1 year Before I tested abrasive blocks. It gives a extremely close to gen look.

Some cash heading your way say! Stay sober and keep fighting!

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/abrasive-blocks That is what you are searching for. I prefer to use coarse, then medium from Garryflex https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/garryflex-abrasive-blocks Bergeon is quite nice too, not as "flakey", but does not justify the huge price difference.

Greed... That is what happens when you sell modified cheap Vietnam parts, in the US, using one of the most hardcore privately owned watch brands in the world. I know a lot of you guys loved him. But all he did was reshape. When I asked him for a quote on a 6263 18K YG case it was >10000 EUR. When I asked why the big difference compared to the SS one, he said work was more complicated. When I said that work should be simpler since YG is easier to mold and work with than SS, he said "take it or leave it". Remove about 1500 EUR for the YG. Remove about 15000 EUR for a regular SS case. >7000 EUR was his profit compared to a SS one. That. Is. Bull. Shiet.

Well.. I'm happy to be alive. But there's some work left to be done. 1 kidney, it's got acceptable function. I have no veins left in my upper body after multiple thrombosis so I feel like a junkie when I try to help the nurses with blood samples. I lost about 15kgs, and then gained 10kgs again, not exactly lean mass.. I've just started with cardio training a couple of weeks ago. My goal is to reach about 75kg's lean to minimize the strain on the kidney. I'm still very-very lethargic. I gone from 0% to 25% and now work 50%. Probably 75% from september+ They still don't know why I got the septic shock, most likely scarring on the bad kidney led to accumulation of fluids and urinary reflux and it became like a "hive" for bacteria usually flushed out when urinating. What more can I say... I've seen almost every tv-show worth seeing on Netflix and HBO. Watches and projects have kept me busy mentally to avoid the "why me-thoughts". My wife is the most beautiful being in this world and I'm eternally gratefuk for meeting her. I'm thankful and got a smile on my face yesterday when I got the PM from @indywatchguy. Thanks guys for the thoughts and support. It's tough.. I'm not going to lie. I went from feeling like a 25 y.o. to feeling like a 70 y.o.

Dial is not good. Unfortunately all have open letters.. It's so annoying. All the Omega dials have that flaw. Other than that I'd say it looks pretty sweet..

Show the clasp, clasp blades, endlink-fitment. Mvmt also. Only way to know. Might be an early Luminova-dial. Lume got a bit stronger toward the end of 16610's lifespan. P.S. Why would you suspect your mother got hassled? It makes no sense to me. D.S. If you want lume, buy a Seiko!

Dial, hands and bezel insert looks gen. Luminova, which is correct with the case. The engravings are period correct with most of the stuff (excl. Crown) Crown looks like an early 703, which should be used on 16610 with lug holes, but still, it looks correct. Crown guards are hard to judge, but look okay. The sólid end links - case fitment is hard to judge. A Picture of the clasp would help. The Datewheel font looks a bit off. Too fat. With the above information and not "optimal" Pictures. I would say gen, but could be a franken based on some discrepancies mentioned above. P.S. How come you don't know if the watch is genuine? Found it?

Check bivintagestore2014 on ebay (he has all sorts of Rolex, Omega and Blancpain cases), you can contact him at bivintagestore@gmail.com.

It's 99,9% done now. Enjoy it-phase.

So you know in the future... Ruby's insert is much-much better.. The bezel is finished more correctly than the WSO too.. I don't want to pour salt in the wounds.. But a tip for the future!

http://www.rubyswatch.com/Products/replacement-parts/explorer-i-ii

Which word do you mean when you say "mask"? Say it in italian (I speak some).. Because I don't understand what you're trying to say from the context.

What do you mean by "higher" quality? Closer to gen finish? Definitely ARF as far as finish and fitment SELs and tolerances.. They have a Milgauss bracelet... However as far as the TT-bracelet for the Sub... That's one of the principal reasons speaking against me ever purchasing one. Even if go on a modding spree, regrinding, resanding, rebuffing, rebrushing.. You lose most of the gold layer and need some really skilled plating skills/connections to refinish it. None that I know of would even come close to trying to find a gen bracelet.

IMO... The dial printing isn't the biggest thing. It's the 3 and 6 indices and the triangle... That screams rep a before spacing/kerning.

The mask? if you look at side profils and top view the bezel is incorrect and recommended to be switched out

Also.. There's a Classifieds-section!

First cigar of the year.. cold as hell still...

Change the insert and it looks awesome! http://rubyswatch.com/products/k14-|-submariner-|-5513-|-bezel-insret-1703 http://rubyswatch.com/products/k14-|-submariner-|-5513-|-bezel-insret-1703 What bezel is used? (because the whole bezel set incl. retainer is just 50 USD extra...)

I have a 36mm gen dial and hands, but work out a dial first, and read up on 2824. This is a quite bad case as far as spelling and similar is concerned. http://rafflesdials.com/rolex-signed-vintage-style-of-36mm-stainless-steel-datejust-watch-case-with-smooth-bezel-and-20mm-lugs-size-fit-eta-2824-movement-and-dial-in-28-0-28-5mm/ My tip is either buy a 36mm vintage DJ and sell the mvmt and replace it with say a ETA 2472 or 2783. You get a full case,dial and hands. As a "pack". Or build Everything from scratch with bits and pieces here and there...

I have a gen trit 16750 dial with hands, and plexi, however completely different hand stack. Otherwise I agree with Paul.