hologramet

That's what I suspected. @martijnpWhat have you done to it? Stock or any mods?

What dial is that?

After some serious trimming down, these are the two regulars. Note dark brown galvanic plate...

Hallelujah brother! The flippers and make-an-extra-buck'ers have removed all the genuine interest and turned every broken down, completely wrecked watch part into "if I call it vintage and it has a Rolex-logo, hey, I could make 500€"

Välkommen!

You're necro-bumping a lot of threads now mate! Hopefully you'll get an answer, but maybe sticking to a couple of threads would increase your likelyhood of getting a focused answer? Welcome to the forum though don't get me wrong!

The Cartel retaining ring is way too high. An option is of course to slim it in a lathe. But the easier solution is using the crystal retainer included in the bezel assembly you choose. "...can you post a link to the Clark bezel? Thanks!" Clark is hit or miss on the bezels. http://stores.ebay.com/clarkwatchparts?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 This guy usually has them: http://stores.ebay.com/Rics-Watch-Repair?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 eBay item number 112425341989 He is restocking today, so send him a message or wait for him to put up a new item.

I can't answer this with 100% certainty, but if the Cartel had a “newer"-style bezel ring, then most likely it also has a thicker/highe of the crystal retainer and the bezel ring won't "snap" on as it should. In short, unless you're 100% that parts are gen spec (and often even though) when it comes to aftermarket bezels, try buying the whole set, bezel ring, tension ring and retaining ring.

Resharp? Reshape? I think we all want to reshape cases to gen spec, however, since the bezel assembly looks a bit weird (could be the bezel insert giving that feeling), the question is why this is better than say a Noob v7 SA - case?

There is a good replacement and has been for a long while. Both me and @rolojack (I haven't asked him if he confirms this 100% me writing this) can vouch for them 100%. It's the same Vietnam-supplier that they all have. MQ-dials, cases etc.etc.

You should really consider editing your post and making the font color black, it's next to impossible to read on the RWG-forum theme. Thanks for your post, very insightful!

Beautiful build! Your lowest standard is absurdly high! Just small details like custom tapered seconds hand. Impressive..

I would buy the Noob v7 2836. Most bang for the buck, and most likely all you will ever need. When the Frankenstein plans and the replica scene and its possibilities gets to you, you will rethink the possibilities and buy 2 or 3 watches and combining parts will be a reality, but since you ask, most likely you aren't there yet, and your wallet thanks you.

New info to me, thanks! Then the same rules apply for the Noob 114060 as for the JF. I hope that the Noob v7 114060 SA3130 isn't engraved 116610 like the v7 a2836 is... No pictures on the site. -- @Sogeha, yeah. Dimensions are both gen spec, however apart from large parts, like dial hands, the SA313X has no parts interchangeble with the genuine 313X or Yuki/SH313X.

This should be known... Neither is best. 114060 isn't available with 3130 from Noob, so the only option is JF. 116610 Noob v7 SA3135 VS JF SH3135 v2: rehaut, Noob case, Noob is gen spec and more correct clasp, Noob insert and bezel, Noob dial/hands, pretty equal SELs/bracelet, JF movement, JF by miles crystal, pretty equal I would still buy the JF... AND the Noob and combine the best parts. However, unless you're planning on spending extra cash on your watch, I would go for the 2836-2 Noob v7. If you want to be able to upgrade inte the future I would go for the Noob v7, and possibly upgrade it in the future with a JF-movement. I for one have a JF with Noob parts, and genuine dial/hands and I will change the midcase in the future to a Noob v7. But I bought mine before all the SH3135 being a Yuki was obivous, and I was after the movement, since I wanted the engraved Yuki for my watchmaker to experiment on.

They all fit, straight on!

SEL midpart is 9mm Springbar same 3mm pins with flanges Dremel with stone disc Pin vice or pliers, recommend the first Remove extra metal (flange part) until about 1mm left and uniform thickness Sandpaper remove sharp metal edge that is created. One side done, repeat.. Good luck with them SELs!

I'll see what I can do tomorrow..

Helenarou has a 7016-caseback with gen specs for 70 USD incl shipping. Worth considering.

You won't be disappointed! It's great dealing with pros. And he sure knows what he is doing...

@altesporsche: ProfSteve 2xAR . Get's rid of the cyclops. Me no likey.

I stand corrected. Awesome mod, and absurdly easy to get it right without too much hassle... Before: After:

Send me a PM and I'll hook you up with my source.

Some info available in there.. Although some pictures of the work process (tools) would be great!