juicemouse

I will probably switch out the movement. Have two laying around. That or save up 25k for a gen

I've never seen these with lug holes. Where's it from?

Andrew. The bracelet really is crap though. And it's 28.8 high beat, although the gen is not.

Is this light for a watch of this era or is the weight what you would expect?

Critique time. I received this 1019 yesterday and although I'm happy overall with the quality of the watch, the bracelet is absolute [censored]. It's the cheapest feeling bracelet I've seen since starting this game. The links screw head slots are also so wide that my screwdrivers have trouble removing them. The SEL also 'dips' in at 6 and 12 leaving an awkward gap with the bezel.

The dial, crystal, and hands look pretty good but the bezel, like the bracelet, looks cheap. Almost like its chrome plated and not polished stainless steel.

Total weight with 2 links removed is 87 grams.

There are some very handsome riveted bands out there that feel pretty sturdy. Problem is, they're much thicker than the real deal when viewed from the side.

If you want to go thin / riveted / folded then the best so far are the bands Yuki had originally. The end links stunk then as well, but they had enough meat to them that you could beat them into shape. The new examples are weak enough that a hard stare will crumple them like Chuck Norris staring down Bruce Lee.

I just received my vintage milgauss from Trusty and you're completely right, the riveted bracelet is SO PATHETIC. Are there any updates on the Yuki bracelets? NDT still the best option after 7 months?

The problem with many 15xx rolex movements is high mileage and low maintenance and you can not easily tell just by looking....

Your post is probably worth around $1000 hehe... Thanks for sharing!

Bought the wrong bracelet!!! Should be 7835, not 78350. Off by about 20 yrs . It's in beautiful NOS condition but I'm still an idiot. Smh.

I would get one from BK or TC. Higher cost on the front end but you won't have to deal with the cost and hassle of a service. Plus gen like construction so it can accept gen parts if you choose to go that route.

So many movements! That pic doesn't even look real.

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I'm looking for a sporty piece I can use as a daily beater.

What are your thoughts on the Pro Hunter Stealth Explorer II, in comparison to the gen?

http://www.p-cls.com/rlexph10108n-hunter-stealth-explorer-a2813-p-15374.html

If you have other suggestions, please share.

Some of you may cringe but I've been looking into a sub on a nato strap as well.

Your thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

I got a prohunter sub from TT and it passed a 5ATM dry test. For a beater, I think it's fine but the PVD looks cheap (almost transparent) so prepare to get it recoated. Because of this, I don't know if they are worth what they are charging for it. I'm sure I'll love it when I get mine back but that's another $200 invested that I'll probably never see again.

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And how did you come to that number?

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I guess I'll get a 5500 dial from Yuki. Any other makers I should consider?

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I've quit doing Rolex movements in reps/frankens- you just end up with an expensive franken.

I think some of the best reps are the ones where people build a nice watch using an eta movement.

A 5500 Explorer w/ an eta will still be a very nice watch

You still get satisfaction from the building process though right? I don't plan on selling this and if you can get the parts at the right price, why not?

I could be wrong, but isn't Whoppy's Explorer dial for a 1016 ?

Well that's not good news.

What dial will you be using?

 

I'll decide on the dial after I decide on the movement.  Currently have a whoopy explorer dial but it's designed for ETA

Starting a new 5500 project and I have acquired a gen 5500 case and gen 78350 Bracelet with 557 ends (In MINT condition).  So far have about $1100 sunk into this project.  Would you guys go ahead and get the gen movement for $1000-1500 or stick with the ETA?

 

Juice I have found that it is really far less hassle and far less customer complaints to employ someone to physically QC items.

After all are you certain that QC pic's are always the watch you are receiving?

Ken

That's a good point, I have no idea. Even though the products are replicas, I would like to think the business end of the transaction remains honest, as it would for any other product.

Buyers remorse is completely different from receiving a defective item. Everyone is different in the level of flaws that they are willing to accept but if the QC pictures are different from the advertised item (bait and switch), and the dealer is unwilling to replace the item, then I think we have a problem.

To ken's point, QC pics should be scanned thoroughly to make sure the product meets your standards.

To my point, there is no point to QC pics if the dealer doesn't address issues found during the QC review. This is how we get better, faster. Rep quality improves, sales increase, less rejected parts waste, happier customers, repeat business. We all win.

"I work hard for my money, I'd like to see something in return." I come firmly down on this side of equation but I am also not that nit picky a person, also firmly in none anal corner. Glad you got that straighten out Juice.

Thanks Mike. Our culture might have differences on what is ethically acceptable but everyone understands money. The forum levels the playing field just a little bit by holding dealers accountable. Thanks RWG.

Well the TD came through. I think he saw the same SEL gap (at least 1mm) and sent me new QC pics. I just wanted the watch to resemble the one on their website; nothing more, nothing less. My second purchase from this particular dealer and he will continue to get my and my referrals business.

What's the point of QC pics if the TD's don't fix problems you point out, like large, gaping holes between the lugs and the end links. I can see day light through them. Would you guys not consider that an issue? It's easy to make things smaller with some filing but impossible to put material back.

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Does anyone know the lug size on the vintage Milgauss from Trusty's? The QC pics are I received had so much space that it looks like a 19mm bracelet on 20mm lugs.

Waiting for a response from Andrew but I'm looking for a Gen riveted bracelet and need to know the size.

Product link:

http://www.ttw888.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_103&products_id=623

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Wasn´t the last statement of the TD: Wait 3 days I´ll ship another watch... Most Daytonas only give problems - and it´s such a beautiful watch.

 

Yeah, I love them but I told myself I would limit my rep purchases to date function only.  No GMTs or Chronos for me because of the movement problems.

I can't comment on BP watches but I haven't had the greatest luck with Lume on my TT or BK Sub-C V2.  Hopefully my incoming TC is better.

Here are the specs for the 2453.

Maybe it could help someone tell me which dimensions I need to focus on for the creation of the ring to match a 5500 gen case.