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GenTLe

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Posts posted by GenTLe

  1. Hi all,

    I'd like to mod a bit my non-functional-PR big pilot.

    In order to approach it in the right way, may someone that already did the mod share some information about that task?

    Like: is the fake PR hand pinion coming from the dial or from the movement? Is the removal/repositioning of the PR hand like any other functional hand? No glued hand or other possible problems to take into consideration?

    Thanks, GenTLe

  2. What below represent the job I did this week evenings. I started last Mon or Tua and finished today. All condensed into one single post.

    I recently got a Noob GMT 2 kit from themannier here on RWG. It was complete except for the DWO and 3 of the 4 parts that turn a standard 2836 into a GMT. Plus it was completely disassembled.

    Going to show the rebuild process.

    First I unassembled the movement (and it is when I discovered that the GMT parts have been replaced with standard ones, except for the gmt hand gear/pinion) and properly washed it.

    Here after first rinse:

    7e4d53a8e73a89657ea56630f29fda4e.jpg

    And second rinse (between the temporary allocation over lint free paper and the passage in the 50°C oven I use to dry them):

    4acf79fad6b5873d944fae99a241c0a5.jpg

    In the meantime I got a brand new BK dwo from USA that I will glue over the naked date wheel.

    Here you can see what transform a standard 2836 into a GMT version, together with the higher cannon pinion:

    a01c0f3fec5871007fe50c12167666f0.jpg

    Below the GMT bits, upper the standard ones.

    Here together with movement partially assembled:

    6b8ffc0cf13d18fc25bdee2cd12f50ca.jpg

    Finished (missing only the GMT hand gear and the BK DW overlay which will be done when I will be fresher than like now ar 11pm):

    721643ce799f999f5f70063856ccf401.jpg

    Definitively not bad for a movement not yet regulated! Lovely amplitude and 0 beat error :)

    420d55b1bf0544ec07e7aa4ce9f3547f.jpg

    This eve I have installed and glued the dwo that BK has been so nice to sell me on the naked date wheel.

    Here you can see the result. For the alignment (that I have obviously checked) pictures we need to wait tomorrow.

    0ab8830ee9552d5606578c3a8c709df9.jpg

    The glue I've used is in the pic.

    It has 2 big advantages respect to the others:

    1) when it's dried it keeps 300kg/cm2, this means that I can use a VERY little amount of it, placed with an oiler on just 4 points of the DW. This will avoid it spreading around ending up on the movement and/or the DWO.

    2) this glue fully dries in 12h and if you put a low amount of hardener it remains very soft for more than 1h (at least for more I needed to align properly the DWO). This means precious time to use for alignment!

    Plus I used that glue to fix a magnet of the flying wheel of my motorcycle, and after 20kkm spinning up to 12000rpm in hot oil and with the V-twin pulses the magnet is still there :D

    Check of DWO alignment: love it!!

    c3a8a01448c90bf18921ea5548d7de91.jpg3de60db36a860df03090f3383ef69057.jpgf83b374e32cd8bacf9ad5033ad8e6636.jpg1057af36c707b82e8fc02970224047da.jpg81514f9b4bb334c878ea81dd4ba35112.jpg

    Hands alignment done!

    d698983f886252ac79bb0557e86adbf0.jpg

    In the case:

    2a71e8cde8e30e383682650bc761f9da.jpg

    I also leaned something today: if your movement is performing amazingly half assembled and, after casing, it starts to behave erratically with ridiculous amplitude (197°) and very inconsistent gain/delay, then check the sec hand! Mine was nearly touching the crystal and it was causing this stupid behavior :)

    Once I pressed it a little bit more into its pinion it went back straight to the results of the pic:)

    Ok so how to relax oh a Sunday afternoon after a good MotoGP race (even if it has been very sad for Rossi...)? Move on with the GMT is a good idea :)

    Since the watch has been bought in bits and I don't know the story behind apart being it a Noob, a good idea is to remove the bezel and give a good clean to its parts:

    1f531d32cee8e69bddd1b6b02e72702b.jpg

    That way I will also be able to give a repolish to the surfaces without messing up with the bezel mechanics.

    Lubricating the bezel assembly with oil or grease isn't a wise move, because in some time they will end up in a kind of dirty paste as oily materials attract dust and incorporate it in the lubricants.

    So I used my dry Teflon spray, spraying it in a bowl and using a brush to apply it.

    When the solvent will be evaporated, it will just leave a thin layer of dry Teflon on the surfaces, reducing a lot the friction.

    a3be05fc188b285901d710cb9784c918.jpg

    Then some attention to the bracelet. Rebrushed and repolished where needed:

    50eb8b3555e9993bc234f09a6a499c0d.jpg57420afe1d590eab1c1729fc4ce659f3.jpg

    Then a good clean in the ultrasonic machine, rinse with hot water and remount/resize it.

    And finally:

    449c204fa65f4552836622f9d92cf9f7.jpgd0adbc4116b025e591bcba87fb38244d.jpg

    Kind of happy of the result :)

    • Like 1
  3. Just noticed this is a no date? My question is with the seconds @ 3, is this going to be another problematic movement that has extra plates and gears to move the seconds function from 6 to 3?

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    For sure. The base is a 7750. But maybe... Recently they (SWF) released a new jeweled sec@6 for Portuguese... It would be nice if this has been done properly like that. But I am not holding my breathe.....

  4. Guys great thread here. I know I'm a little late to the party haha. Bought a Hublot Big Bang ceramic whose crown was broken and I have to remove the stem which obviously broke so that you can't remove it. I want to give the vinegar a go but, on the Hublot crown there is a rubber logo do I have to remove this one or is it ok to just leave the whole crown in the vinegar? Thanks for the help guys!

    Had to do exactly the same on my hublot (chrono with pink gold case and ceramic bezel). It took 2 weeks to dissolve the stem with vinegar but it worked perfectly and no damage on crown or rubber.

  5. Hi, Yes very reliable source. Why do you say that? To cheap? Im 99.9% its as advertised and its not a con.

    What sort of prices would you say they should be?

    Thanks

    Because the best and most expensive one, letting apart the ones from Thomas Caddell and BK builders/modders, is currently the Noob v6s.

    Which costs:

    358$ with Asian eta (it would my choice): http://www.torobravos.xyz/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=V6s&product_id=2034

    And if available (but I would avoid it) 418$ with the Chinese 3135.

    The ones with Miyota are from BP factory and cost much less: http://www.torobravos.xyz/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_115&product_id=1943

    Those prices you report seem from one of those overpriced scam sites...

  6. Well now it's been well over a year...I love the watch. Regulated it once, it's very accurate. I keep it on a winder the days I'm not wearing it. It's been just great!

    ea3b98e7bc821d5706df02323843e953.jpg

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Avoid the winder... You just stress the watch for nothing.

    If you are not going to use it within a couple of days then let it discharge and when you get it again, wind it for 5/10 turn, set time and date and put it on.

  7. Eheheh this was the other one I was watching of the sale... Luckily I didn't get it as I have a 19.5cm wrist...

    Instead I got the rep of this, and in the very 1st post he did (the one that was nuked due to high value sale not yet approved):

    Seamaster_ETNZ-team-new-zealand-res.jpg

    I already had one in the past and I loved it regardless the "Emirares" on the case back, but it lasted few days as a pinion of the minute counter snapped and I got a refund after like 1 year from the TD.

    About your question: sorry but I don't know... It is a rare watch so not easy to find spares...

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