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AllergyDoc

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Posts posted by AllergyDoc

  1. It's often done, but not always. Too much typing for people who post pics of their watches all the time. If you want to know where a guy got a watch from, you can always reply in the thread or send him a PM. (Don't be a pest and go overboard on PMs, though.)

    I frequently write something like, "GMT-II C from _(some dealer)_".

  2. The seconds-at-6:00 Daytonas are hit-and-miss: some guys report no problems for years while others say theirs stopped running after a few months.

    Consider the "vintage" models with seconds-at-9:00; they may not be real accurate but there will be no/less problems with the movement.

    There are still a few pre-2000 models out there, with seconds-at-9:00. The subdial spacing is off but if you don't mind, they're worth a look. Here's one (not from a recommended dealer on this site but he is a dealer on another site.

    Link

  3. what are the ingredients to this one, case dial ect

    He started with a 3-year-old "Retro" GMT from Josh which has, apparently, changed:

    Regrettably, now Josh and Andrew both sell vintage GMT Master from a new batch, sounds like the old stock of cases with the thick crown guards is finished. Before, cases had thick crown guards and were cut depending of the tube and crown diameter used. Now makers adapt tubes and twinlock small diameter crowns direct on Sub cases to produce GMT !! The space betwin the crown guards and crown is to wide and the crown guards are to narrow. This looks ugly and 200% vrong. Don't buy these watches So we have to source the old style case. I think Sillix have them.

    rep2.jpg

    The dial is also from the old Retro watch.

    If the dial had surrounds , it would be correct for the MK.4 and MK.5 GMT dials:

    DSC05102.jpg

    DSC05111-1.jpg

    My watch is a prototype of sorts. He does need to figure out how to make the bezel insert fit better and one end links fits poorly on the watch. I believe he will offer these for sale when he gets some of these issues ironed out.

    I would like to upgrade towards Yuki. But lot of problems also. The regular GMT dial they have for sale actually is complete vrong. Never existed, and I don't want those with Arabic insigna. Also I emailed and they gave me the case set price. Pricy. Also, I am not convicted by the caseback flat brushed style design. This is not a 1675 caseback. And the case body looks too thick on pics.

    So buy such material is risky, for the price I can get 3 GMT master from Sillix-prime and mod them like I did : and with the recurring problem of DATE and 5513 engravings...

    Maybe this watch is closer to a 16750? The dial is more 1984ish.

  4. I picked this watch up from RolexAddict. It came with both Pepsi and black bezels, so it's a "transformer". Here is his description of mods (complete with his Frenlish spelling :lol:):

    Re-cut and re-worked bezel ring, Rolex original specs 4mm wide insert. Tropic 116 plexi, 1,3mm diameter drilled lug holes, Rolex spring bars, re-lumed and aged/patined markers and hands, repainted GMT hand with the true red. Like on gens the tritium has a granular aspect and a passed white / eggs shell color markers and the dial is dulled.

    This transformer is delivered with 2 bezels : Pepsi and black. The 1675 was produced with pepsi and black inserts only.

    1) THE BEZEL RING

    The bezel ring inside diameter is enlarged and the external serrations have material removed. I started to do that with a lathe but bezels often collapsed as they are to thin for basic machinery. Makers have CNC, no lathes. Now I convert by hand with dremel cutter and grinding tools.

    The bezel ring after the re-cut accepts gens or aftermarket original inserts desigh, 4mm wide. All other rep inserts are vrong and will not fit or match

    2) THE PLEXI

    The domed plexi is removed and an aftermarket cyclop 116 is glued in the case. This is a tricky job, as the original cyclop 116 will not fit and has to be centered and the space of half a millimeter between the case side and the plexi has to be filled with epoxy.

    3) LUG HOLES

    The springbar shoulders are 2mm diameter. The lug holes are drilled at 1,3mm to allow a perfect clearance with the springbars and a perfect fitting without play.

    4) DIAL AND HANDS

    The dial is dulled using a Swiss product, used by artists to fix oil/watercolors paintings and so. For the lume I use German and Japanese acrylic material, it doesn't glove a long time, but on these supposed 40 years old watches, the lume is away. The goal is to get the patina and this granular aspect on dots and hands. I use a light red color for the GMT hand.

    INSERTS

    Inserts are aged using bleach and carbonate powder, I don't know the English name, -i would say -baking soda- It's the same chemical product I use when I do hot bluing job on gun parts to stop the salts action. Difficult to explain. Anyway, I can control the " virtual age" of the insert.

    The close ups let you see how well the aging was done.

    4686623295_6e18f9cca5_o.jpg

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    4686623413_915a00e49f_o.jpg

    4687258882_d12db795c1_o.jpg

    4686623809_8edfc8df3b_b.jpg

    4687259180_4e5a289033_b.jpg

    4686623945_995e768da8_b.jpg

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    4686624035_022cb63710_b.jpg

    4687259538_0c91965ce6_o.jpg

    I forgot to shoot the back of the extra bezel. If you're familiar with BK's excellent "Transformer" GMT, RA's bezels are held in place in a similar manner, except the wire is much thicker and holds the bezel much more securely than BK's (or at least the one I had). BK's bezel popped off once when I was wearing a French cuffed shirt. There's no way this one could pop off that easy.

    He's also working on a 1675 "El Cornin

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