Bc1221

http://www.ebay.com/sch/crystaltimes/m.html?item=351195949879&hash=item51c4e8eb37&pt=UK_Jewelery_Watches_Watches_MensWatches_GL&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 For those of interested. He has some AR coated PAM crystals too. Im asking about the 16610 crystal

Hrmm. I thought I read that they were pretty much the same minus the date. Need more research I guess

If I ever decide to do another vintage build.. Shoot me. Lol I would probably just relume Matte finish. Shave GCs and shave the lugs. Re polish and re brush everything so everything looks new minus the dial and bezel. Basically make it look like you just got a 50 year old watch from rolex back. None of that coffee and sugar stuff. Keep it simple

Will a 14060 crystal fit a 16610 (TC)? Reason I ask is bc I've found a good deal on a AR coated 14060 crystal and I've been kinda wanting to get my flat crystal AR'd. I would think they fit but you never know with rolex.

^^^ i would take him up on that offer. ST cases dont come around too often.

yea.. kuvarsit i think actually sells a 16800 i believe. pretty pricey though. i think it was around $500 bucks and it housed a clone movement. like i said, if it were me id just mod a TC V6. lug holes, change dial, relume hands and get a vintage dwo. sell the TC Dial and recoup some of the cost.

Gens don't have ar coating on the cyclop. They coat the underside of the main crystal right below the cyclop. That's how they get the nice black hole effect from angles. You can see if it will take a gen crystal and swap it out or just have the entire crystal AR coated. I know the gens don't have that but I gotta say, it looks pretty good. I've been considering doing the same for my TC and DJII. If you're looking for all the tells on a rep, you're gonna have a bad time. You'll find a new one every day. I'd suggest just enjoying it. Nobody else will ever notice or care. If they care enough to know that your AR is wrong, they would already know that the hands are stacked wrong and the hands are flap. Not to mention the gaping pinion hole on the second hand. Lots of tells on GMT rolexes. If AR is the only one you notice then count your lucky stars and enjoy it.

I've been looking at these for a while. Seems like the ST19 model is really the only decent out of the box 6263 available since DW is a no no and I've read questionable things about Spinmaster. Plus, they're pretty cheap. Question for you Daytona experts. What crown is the right one for this model? Is it a 702?

Where did you get a MBK 1680?! As for aging, I personally would just relume the dial with a puffy, mustard colored mix and finish it off with a nice matte spray. Be sure to check the ingredients and make sure it's not acetone based. Acetone based sprays will give it a texture. It has a cool effect but no real dial would age like that. The kind made for model cars seem to be acetone free. A bit pricier but worth it. The bezel - take the insert off and soak it in bleach for a few mins. Most bezels will fade but I've had some that doesn't (cartel). The only other mods I'd do is shave the CGs and drill the lug holes to accept thicker spring bars. If you wanna go gen spring bars, you'll have to drill the end links and bracelet. A real pain in the ass. You could always buy a yuki bracelet and gen spec end links. I'd also recommend Atheya 702 crown and tube. $35 bucks shipped and change the look dramatically. Don't over do it. So many people age the hell out of these reps and they look like crap IMO. Rolexes are waterproof. There is no reason why it should look like it's been sitting in the ocean for years. Look up some 1680 pics and mod based on them. As with any modding, think it through a few times before doing it. There is no coming back on most mods. Post some pics when you get it!

youre paying a fraction of what the real thing costs. do you really expect it to look exactly the same? the reps have different looking dials. different shades of orange and cant replicate the green crystal. they are just AR coated with a green coating. you need to lower your expectations. there is no such thing is a 1:1 exact copy. there are reps of the milgauss with the engravings on the back though.

kinda have to agree here. i think people take the whole aging thing a little too far. these are waterproof watches. theres no reason why they should look like theyve been sitting at the bottom of the ocean for a decade. personally, i would have just done a relume to make the markers puffy and give it a few coats of matte lacquer. maybe have it sit in some cigar smoke for a while.

someone on RWI did a nice 16800 build. http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php?t=200247 specs are listed in the post. i wish ST still made those cases. it was pretty much the only option for a 16800. i forgot about the bevel. that can be replicated but it wont be cheap. i think pbdad can create them. you could get that done while getting lug holes drilled.

That still would make the rehaut wrong. You may not even notice it but once you see it, it can't be unseen. Sorry

If you were doing the mods and work yourself, the cost wouldn't be so bad but if you're outsourcing and trying to do a solid build with gen parts, it's gonna cost almost as much as a gen. If I were you I'd scrap the yuki 3135 and the gen parts. With the available options, this is what I would do. Buy a TC V6. Get lug holes drilled. Swap to a yuki 16800 dial and have the hands relumed to match. Get a vintage DWO for $30. That would be about $600 for the TC + $150 or so for yuki dial and vintage DWO. I'd also pick up a yuki bracelet with end links and gen spring bars. You could do the whole build for around a grand. With gen and yuki parts, you're looking at a lot more.

Why would you ruin a perfectly good gen Daytona with rep parts? Really doesn't make any sense to me. Esp considering the rep parts wouldn't even be real platinum. Does not compute.

Cartel or puretime are about the only options. Puretime is usually out of stock though.

There are a few modders that drill virgin lug holes. Jmb and pbdad I think both offer it. I've been wanting to do a 16800 build with a matte dial since I got in to reps but no good cases for it. The TC case would prob be your best option but the rehaut is wrong for a 16800. ST case would be the one to go for but they are hard to come by. I think the old noobmariners have the right rehaut depth but I don't know if those will take a gen/yuki movement. As for the date wheel, if you're using a yuki 3135, you should be able to use a gen date wheel. You can buy vintage date wheels on eBay. Not cheap but it's the best. Good luck. I'd love to see how it turns out. Like I said, I've wanted one for some time but the cost of doing a great build is almost as much as buying a used gen.

rep. i think but hard to tell from the pics. the second hand pinion hole is tiny so its prob a 21j the LEC is pretty large. the hands look flat the bezel markers look like white paint.

If you're gonna get a Migauss, at least get a eta clone movement. The 21j and the heavy second hand don't work well together from what I've read.

There's no such thing as a cheap vintage build Honestly, I would ditch that dial. It's not that great. You can get much better dials from yuki or whoopy for 1680. Or sell the dial and get a pure time 1680 if thry have it in stock. It would just take some case work and a relume and you'd be set.

It happens to the best of us. At least you got something. Plenty of scammers don't even send you anything. Stick with the TDs next time

Hrmm. It's def not a gen dial but I wouldn't think typical rep dials have singer brands. Weird. Does it have feet?

It's more than likely the click spring. A fairly well known weak spot in the st19s. Sadly, seagull doesn't sell parts for their movements but I believe some of the forums modders can fix it. I think it's a bergeon click spring that works.

your cheapest option would be a cartel case. at that point, you may as well just use the whole watch. i think its the same dial honestly. where did you buy this dial? it looks like a cartel dial.

I hope you didn't buy that from one of the TDs. Idk why but I'm thinking you bought that in person. If that happens to you again, there's a quick and easy way to check if it's a shitty 21j movement or a eta clone. Set the time. One single turn on a 21j will get you 90mins. 45 on etas and eta clones.