RickFlorida

I'm no expert but even I can tell the insert and pearl are not original. So even if the dial was original, it is not worth 130k. Everything has to be original for asking 130k. Since they added the insert....How would you know the movement came with the dial or case?

OK, thanks guys.

Does Mary have other bracelets too or just the 7836?

Really great website and information. Interesting, all the typos for such an obsessive collector, but great info. none the less!

Are they really only from Yuki? On his website, he says they come from a factory where it is dusty or dirty so wouldn't any one else be ordering these 3135 clones? With the crazy price of genuine movements, you think whoever is making these 3135 clones would be selling like crazy. Now I wonder if Yuki simply got different factories to make some of the parts and then they had to be put together by a third party, and thus why it's hard to coordinate and get these made again?

How do you guys know the difference so easily between solid mid links and hollow mid links just from looking at the top of the watch or bracelets? Maybe I don't yet understand the difference.

I think we should just start over. A new problem is that my password never worked last night. So I think there are lots of issues that may be hidden as well.

I was looking at the older post on the 16610 Noobmariner from 2009 or so. The bracelet on it is amazingly good for a 100 dollar watch. Does anyone know how to order just the bracelet from who ever is the maker?

Correct, but we must point out that it seems the Yuki 3135 is out of stock. Does whoever who actually builds the Yuki 3135 movement sell it to someone else? We call it the Yuki movement but doesn't Yuki even say it comes from a small factory somewhere? You would think they would be cranking them out to make money.

All very nice!

? I thought even the Yuki 3135 movement is not 100% compatible or interchangeable with genuine 3135 parts. Am I wrong?

Yeah, good point above the precision needed to set the jewels. One fix, is to pre-drill every hole smaller and then in the "kit", sell burrs or drills or just give a PDF of the specs.

Gentlemen, and Ladies, (I've seen one or two here I believe)... I'm curious what everyone thinks about the near future of laser cutting your own parts to DIY movement replicas. I design jewelry as a hobby and am ASTOUNDED as to how precise the 3d printing is getting. My models that are printed in a SolidScape Max2 are smooth as silk. With all this talk about 3135 replica movements that do not even interchange with gen. parts yet.... It got me wondering...... Is laser cutting of metal sheet almost precise enough to build a 1570 or other movements, minus the hairsprings and other parts? It will be precise enough soon, in not already. The idea..... someone creates a "kit" of files that you upload to the cloud service/printing/cutting service, and then they are sent to you with a list of the parts you will still need to buy. (like aftermarket springs, etc). I would think whichever movement is the simple would be a good start. Main plates, gears, rotors, maybe bridges.... all of these things can be laser cut I would think if not now, in the future. We already have desktop laser cutters. The high precision should be cheap soon as well. What are your thoughts?

What? Only if they are thinking of selling whole watches. If a factory made a 3135 movement replica that could interchange gen. parts, they would sell crap loads of movements.

Valid points but why did you register here if you are 100% against reps?

Yeah it's ridiculous how much more anything sub or sea dweller related something is so I know what you mean. While looking for just a 93150 clasp, I see entire ladies date bracelets even with gold midlinks for the cost of a worn out 93150 clasp! Stupidly annoying.

As far as I understand, the cartel system of crystal neck is gen so crystals fit the same way. The bezel itself has a slightly off size for the insert which I think is too big so the inserts are glued to stay in. If you want a tight fitting bezel assembly, you pretty much have to buy a whole new bezel assembly including the retainer ring so that everything works together. It works well because the neck size on the midcase where the retainer ring and crystal goes is the correct diameter. Some people live with the glued insert but mine fell off in the pool in only 2 months of use.

It looks like Clark's offers no color or lume options at all. I only see pure white Tudor Sub hands available from his eBay listings. It would be nice if there at least was a yellow lume available. So I assume everyone is immediately stripping and reluming them?

OK, thanks. Am I over thinking it that if one were to build a 7928 Tudor with an ETA movement, since the original movement is a 390, then what is the best choice? A later Tudor hand set would be meant for a non 7928 look, or did they not change?

( I didn't know this before ). That is ridiculous that something that should be easy to duplicate like hands is not rep'd well. Now, when you say Clark's is better than Yuki, is that only for gen. fitting hands or only for Yuki ETA hands vs. gen, etc.? In other words, if you have an ETA movement, is there a choice?

Ahhhhh, thank you for the description and for sharing. I'll try it sometime.

It's probably the lighting more than the camera. You need filtered or softened light on shiny objects for good photos. An easy work around is going outdoors for strong light but can actually be less direct/harsh than indoor lighting. But it is hard to achieve macro shots without a macro lens.

Ahhh, very cool idea. Is the oil just motor oil? And the brown spots just happen randomly and then you clean it well and whatever stays is what we see? Nice job.

Oh, my mistake. I should have remembered how hard it is to photograph shiny objects. Nice build!

Yeah, especially since the gold mid links are rubbing off. So unless I'm mistaken, the bracelet is not gen. But nice movement!