RickFlorida

Hello all. I'm a newbie but am learning a lot in the last few months. I have a very simple question please if anyone can chime in. Do all ETA 2824-2 watch builds use this type of dial spacer ring that I found between my movement and dial? I need to know if not always in case it effects standard stem height as I try to calculate my needed main movement ring. (the big one that goes between the case and movement) I found this small spacer just like it's pictured between an ETA 2824-2 and a marathon dial with the proper feet placement. The 2824-2 has a date wheel but is not used (and will not be used in the new build either). So in other words, does this picture dial spacer effect the stem height? If this is standard then it will help me calculate the difference between a DG2813 stem height of 2.5 and the 2824-2 stem height of 1.8 Thanks, Rick

Update Gents. I finally fixed my computer which had a crapped out motherboard. Now I can draw the initial layout and then send it to Jorrie to finish the vector. Then as I promised, I will show you how to etch with precision... (provided Jorrie and I can create a satisfactory template..... I'm still wondering if we can find the right font or one close to it at least).

OK. Yeah I wonder if I may just go ahead and begin estimating a rough drawing and we can go ahead and get a vector file made. So is it safe to assume Ken of Raffles no longer has access to the case backs that he engraved for Tudors? It would be so nice to be able to buy one. Even if it does fit our cases exactly. I can't believe people use to buy them for 25 bucks. You can't even get something engraved for less than 100 bucks it seems. I wonder if we can show how many orders we would place for them would he be willing to sell more again.

ahhh...that is what I wondered.

Guys, the originals look like they were terribly stamped, not nicely engraved by a pantograph machine as I would have thought. Actually, I wonder if they were cast? Either way, this example looks terrible. I'm thinking of just estimating the letter sizes and spacing and laying out my own template rough drawing to hand over to our friend to make a vector of it. I will try to find the font too so he won't have to guess on anything. Will update you guys soon. The best though would be to get a Raffles replica. Anyone want to sell me theirs?

I have a marathon dial with tritium tubes that i'm selling on the bay. Even has tritium glass tubes on the hour and minute hands. I think they last 25 years and these are about 8 years old.

Thank you for posting the photo. It's a good start. From this photo, I could count the teeth of the caseback and estimate the sizes. If you could give me an exact height of the letters, I may be able to estimate enough of the rest. Now, is this an original? I'm thinking we may need to get the Raffle's and Yuki replica or early original. That's good to know because to me, it looks a bit different from the replicas. Now if the replica's are pretty close to original, I'd really like to purchase one and have it in hand, and I could measure everything with a caliper myself and then forward a drawing to our friend to make the vector. Then I would share with everyone exactly how I etch metal with precision. Does anyone have a good relationship with Ken of RafflesTime to ask him when he can make more of the 25 dollar Tudor casebacks? I could purchase one, and then measure. They may not screw onto our cases anyways so etching with precision is still a good option for us. I'm so confused as to why there are tons and tons of datejust replica cases and casebacks for them on HR and Yuki, etc.... but when it comes to parts for submariner cases, they won't list prices or everything is out of stock. Why is this?

Hello, sounds good to me too. Happy Holidays. As soon as I get the dimensions and spacing, I will send you a detailed drawing. Thank you for all your help everyone. Rick

Thank you.

Ah, I thought maybe that was true. Thank you. My thought is that I am assuming the 2836 that is installed int he josh cartel 5513 may have it removed and thus the spacer lines things up when it's removed. But even if that's the case, I could just shave the spacer if needed. Thanks for the advice. Once I have all my parts it will probably seem easier.

No problem. I'm not always correct. Somethings things say they are out of stock but when you email Ken he does have it. So it's all good. Sure. I just need our friend to measure one of the cases for us. I don't have one to measure myself. Thank you for everyone's help. Like I said, I should be able to make a very nice tutorial once we have the vector image. Although I'm more used to etching precious metal and copper. But the process should be the same with stainless steel. Just a different etchant.

I was just told by Ken of Raffles time he was out of stock about 2 weeks ago. So do you mean Yuki is not out of stock? How do I buy these on ebay as you did? If it's the low cost one I will buy one for a reference but still do the etching How-To and share.

Hello everyone. I purchased a newer version of the Josh 5513 but was too much of a newbie and only ordered the 2813 movement version. Since I want to build a Tudor replica I will need to install a 2836-2 to go with the Yuki dial and ETA hands. I'm a little confused on how to remove a dial on a 2836-2 since I now have to buy a new movement and they always come with a datewheel. I also now have to find the brass spacer ring that comes with the 2836-2 version. I would appreciate any advice.

Hello, I'm in the middle of learning this too. Basically the stem height is different. So you should probably stick with the 2836. If you try to switch to 2824 you would have to change a few difficult parts.

Ah yes, you are right. I think what I need once I purchase a 2836 is to get his spacer ring you are talking about. JackFlash, any chance you will open your watch again? If you do, can you measure the spacer ring for me? I really should have just got the 2836 version as I will also have to remove the datewheel myself when I source a 2836 because they always come with one. Hopefully I can get Mr. Lica to get the factor to send me one, but this is a long shot.

Yeah I keep hearing that it's way easier to just use the 2836 or 46 Clone. I think I will do that now. So I'll still need the exact same movement ring/holder that came with JackFlashe's Cartel 5513. Because I assume there is the cheaper DG2813 movement in mine since it was only 115 dollars. Is that correct? (I have not opened the case yet, I'm just assuming from what I've learned on the forums that the 2836 version of the 5513 would cost more? Jackflash... did the movement ring look like this? This is what comes with a Seagull 2836-2. Do I understand correctly I can use this movement with the case?

Ah, JackFlash this is the perfect thread for me! Thank you for posting this. I am new to this hobby and just bought the new update Josh/Cartel 5513 as well about a month ago with the intention of making a Tudor. One thing that I'm not sure if you mentioned about this great case, is that it has a nice flat caseback. I heard the older Josh/cartel had a bubble back that was way too sphere-like. Also, from what I can tell, these crown guards like identical to the post 1966 5513's that I always see for sale. If I understand correctly, some had the pointed or squared caseguards, but these beveled ones on Josh/Cartel update look perfectly like the later cases I've seen. Anyways, can I please ask you a question? I already own a nice and newer Swiss 2824-2 movement. So I purchased the same looking 5513 updated Josh/Cartel last month, with the same exact mispellings and everything. But since mine was only 115 dollars, I think the inside has the 2813 or whatever they call that Asian21J movement, correct? I am still just collecting parts to build an early Tudor. Am I correct that all I need then is to find that exact same movement ring and get the two tabs/clips and screws that your watch came with since it has the 2836 clone? I have a Athaya 702 Crown. Where can I get that exact movement ring and the clips/screws? I would be so thankful for this info, my way of giving back to this awesome community is that I'm doing a step by step guide in how to etch a Tudor Caseback with precision and I will be using this same case! Follow it here for anyone interested.

Yeah I normally just create images and text that are horizontal. I didn't think until now that I would have to create the Rolex words/letters in a circle and perfectly spaced. I can create with pictures, the entire process of printing and adhering the image onto the case back and how to properly mask, then etch the metal. But I have no clue how to wrap text in a circle. If you do make the image in photoshop, I would recommend you make it an .eps or other kind of vector so people can print from Illustrator. PM me later when you are ready. I can make/find the crown symbol, so maybe it's easier for you to do the text?

I wondered about this. All the more reason for my method.... Here is the precision I can achieve with etching metal with the pcbx toner paper and foil. Now please disregard the quality of the finish, as I did not spend time to further varnish the masking. I just want to show you the precision of the etch. Is anyone good with Adobe Illustrator or other programs? If I provide how to etch metal with precision, can someone collaborate with me and help create the vector image? I suck at software.

Does anyone know if I'll have to re-tap as well if I have the newer Josh Cartel 5513 (now with the nice flat caseback) and I want to install an Athaya 702 crown? I like to know the plan so I can get taps or materials. Thanks.

In fact.... I will post a copy of the completed template so all you guys have to do is print it in laser toner on the transfer paper . I use pcbfx.com And then I normally heat the paper on silver or gold to transfer the design, (mask). Of course, in this case, it will be on the stainless case back. Now I normally transfer designs onto thin gauge sheet so it can fit in a laminator which is the best way to heat and press it on. But in this case, we cannot fit the caseback in a laminator so we must iron it on and provide our own brute force. So our friend Ken at Raffles, we would rather buy your Tudor caseback if you can get them in stock again. This is just a last resort. If the depth and cut looks clean enough, then great. If not, we will have to pay for professional engraving. Which there are not a lot of people who would offer it. There are only 2 that I know of so the rates are not competitive at all.

thank you. I will share how to do it with steps so thank you so much. Could you also measure the spacing between words and the height and width of the rolex crown since its different from the letter size.

Hello fellow and ladies if there are those as well. I'm a going to be working on a tudor project and wanted to know if anyone would care to share the approximate size and font of the Tudor caseback (9411-94010). I have etching knowledge from making jewelry and believe that satisfactory results could be achieved. I will share the process once I have done it if it is successful. Both Raffles Time (Ken) and Yuki are out of stock. I will probably still have someone engrave between the lugs as it's a bit harder to etch small things with precision, but the Tudor caseback should be doable. If anyone owns a Yuki or Raffles casebook, or original, a few moments with a caliper would be awesome. In short, I normally use a very inexpensive but great system using laser toner, and a professional foil that covers the masking. I also would use varnish with black ink to further protect the rest of the design. Either Nitric Acid or another formula for the etchant. I am going to be using a case that is the newer 5513's from Josh Cartel. The new ones have a nice flat caseback.

Ahh, yes. It's weird, I did see these but for some reason, they seem to only exist from UK listings. Any American sources to keep from paying shipping? But thank you. This is helpful to know what I'm looking for now.

Ahhh. Thanks. Why is it bad to not remove the rotor first?