Caci

What about the ones being advertised as retro-fitting 16610’s?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A good friend of mine has a Trusty Time sub model ROLSUB0017

Replica of 16610 Submariner

It was about $550 with all the add-on charges.

Well, he decided to weld while wearing it and splattered the sapphire crystal & case/bracelet.

Also, the paint on the pip fell out.

So,,,,he decided that a ceramic bezel insert would be cool and I told him we could probably replace the crystal with a generic Rolex version.

After all, this is the “Ultimate” version, a “direct” copy of an original Rolex!

Well, the bezel insert is held in with double-sided tape and the bezel itself is retained by a multi-bent wire spring, with a spring/detent ratchet. A real POS system- nothing like the Rolex “snap on”, with hooked ratchet spring.

And, I have a fair amount of Rolex parts Genuine & generic, but no sapphire crystals to fit this watch.

We contacted Trusty Time and they want a small fortune for replacement parts, including $70 for a crystal, when I can buy a generic Rolex for $30.

BTW, the ceramic 40mm insert he bought on the bay is about 0.5mm too big for the bezel.

Anyone know someone who can fix us up with a replacement bezel & ceramic insert, as well as a sapphire crystal & seal?

It’s a fine-running Swiss ETA movement and I’d like for him to get happy.

Thanks,

Chris

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

20 hours ago, Sogeha said:

I think you missed a zero my friend. You also forgot to mention that there is some personalisation to the case back, which obviously detracts from the value?

Intentional...

23 minutes ago, automatico said:

...why vintage rolex Frankensteins are now a 'viable alternative' to the genuine article?

Maybe this has something to do with it:

 

 

Rolex Historic Restoration department

Has anyone dealt with Rolex Historic Restoration Department in Geneva? If so, any suggestions?

I need a dial for an early datejust, and I will be in Geneva at the end of the month. So, I called Rolex. I was told:
1) I can talk to the watchmaker at the front desk to verify that the watch is real (no big deal, as I know it is)
2) An ESTIMATE costs 1000 CHF ($1,000) - just for an estimate! (1000 CHF = $1000.03 USD)
3) Restoration will probably run between 15,000 and 30,000 CHF
And all I need is a DIAL - I don't want anything else to be touched.
I really had my heart set on having Rolex help me, but, honestly, for that much money, I can buy a mint early 4467 and pull the dial.

 

No Parts For You!

Q...Getting a GMT of mine serviced and my watchmaker has informed me that Rolex has stopped supplying GMT specific parts to parts account holders. Can anybody else confirm?

A1...Both Omega and Rolex have stopped supplying parts to third parties. Companies like Startime and Otto Frei no longer sell any Genuine parts. Both companies are also tightening up the parts supply chains to AD's and Private Watchmakers. They have closed the supply chain to many small watchmakers and AD's. Not all AD's and not all Privates, but the ability to get parts has become significantly more difficult in recent months and only going to get more difficult...

A 2...I am told no more movement parts for GMTs along with Daytona, Oysterquartz ,Sky Dweller or Yachmaster II.

 

For Sale:
A NOS never installed 1675 GMT tritium hand set. No corrosion or missing paste.
$775.00 shipped world wide

　

Up for sale tropic 22 Superdomed for Explorer 1016, Nos and sealed, $450.

Up for sale early pair of 50 endlinks for 1675 PCG GMT, Mint used conditions, $390.

Up for sale 1655 Explorer II Bezel, Service Type, Flawless, $490.-

　

FS: very nice faded MFF-insert for 1675. 5Up for sale is this nice faded MegaFatFont insert.
1. My price is 1800 EUR net to me, incl. worldwide shipping.
2. Faded Fat Font bezel for 1675 16750 - $1600

　

FS: Beautiful faded fat fonts Rolex GMT 1675 insert.
Asking $2,250 net by wire shipped worldwide.

　

FS : R O L E X 1675 GMT Date Wheel US $350.

　

A Rolex MK4 bezel and case back for Explorer II 1655. Both are in nice used condition.
BEZEL PRICE $750.00 shipped.  (case back sold, price deleted in listing)

　

FS: Cal.1520 Auto-Wind Module, Complete.

Near Mint. Recently serviced and in near-mint condition, this auto-wind module is fully functional and ready to be installed. $525, including domestic shipping in the US.

For sale is a Rolex 1520 movement. Very clean. Movement is complete except for one part (small part that clips the rotor on from the inside). Price is $790 Firm. (not bad at all compared to the AW assembly alone...different sellers)

Genuine Rolex leather bracelet (strap) and 18k solid gold buckle - $700.

　

You are looking at a very rare set of ref #1019 milgauss hands. Beautiful mellow patina.
$2300.

　

FS: SuperLuminova Submariner 1680 Dial for sale.
PRICE: $990 with free US shipping.

　

FS: Mint 1016 tritium dial + hands - 1300 EUR shipped worldwide.

　

FS Rare Big Logo First type Oyster rivet 6636 SS ,12 link, bracelet marked 1.59 with 65 end link in good conditions!
My request is 4500 euro shipped WW.

　

I have for sale this rare early elastic(spring load)Rolex rivet bracelet from 1957(inside clasp stamped 4 57) with 65 end pieces. Just back from refinishing/polishing/tighten. 5+7 links in total. The links are tight, very nice overall.
Asking $5,000 by wire transfer.　

　

FS: Extra rare Rolex straight end Rivet bracelet from 1950.

19mm Rolex straight end spring load Rivet bracelet.
Asking $3,750 by wire shipped worldwide.

　

For sale is a 1969 7206 rivet bracelet. Price is $1,290 firm.

　

FS - rolex 7206 in straight ends

- 20mm, clasp in 67's
- 10 links with normal stretch
- $2800.

　

Rare 9315 rolex pat. pend bracelet, 11 links with limited stretch, end links in 285, specially for early 1665 mark 1/2 models.
70s on clasp code, offer $2900 include shipping.

 

All postings are from VRM, a few edits for clarity/typos, none on prices.  Italics are my comments. 

...FS: Rolex 6239 Chronograph, excellent original condition, aftermarket leather band. $1,780,000...

54 minutes ago, jackflash said:

A gen insert would snap into a gen bezel, at least when factory fresh. With reps the tolerances vary. Some inserts need to be glued some don’t, some need the edges and base sanded before they even fit.

So, aside from a Gen, could I reasonably expect that a Yuki or MQ assembly (Insert & Ring) to snap together, without glue?

The WSO did fit my retainer properly.

On 10/25/2017 at 10:40 PM, highoeyazmuhudee said:

WSO parts are garbage. Bought many, returned all. I would stay away.

WSO Bezel received yesterday.

Insert pre-installed.

When I mounted bezel, it spun too easily, so I removed the bezel to bend the spring for tension (familiar with this - done many times before).

Insert popped out and would not “snap” into bezel ring.

Looks like it was previously glued in place.

On it’s way back to Sugarland.

I have bought WSO inserts in the past, for later sapphire crystal Subs & GMTs - no problems and very satisfied with the quality.  

Other than the rachet feature (bi-directional click on GMT) of sapphire models, the 5513/5512/1680 design is similar, in that the Insert should snap firmly into the Ring, right?

Thanks, Chris

3 hours ago, Sogeha said:

I bow to your far greater knowledge @alligoat I think I have seen both on later gilt dials 1967 and MilSub is feet first. So I guess 1967was the change point?

As previously stated, with Rolex...

You can be sure that there is overlap - meters first on post-‘67 Subs.

It’s documented that the m/f to f/m was marketing driven.

I’m obviously not the expert - I had to find out which dial was appropriate for my case period?

4 minutes ago, alligoat said:

I thought that meters first dials came first and then later feet first came around as an accommodation to the American market. I'm thinking the change occurred in the late 60s. 

Meters first were “FIRST”.

They were changed to “Feet First” for marketing purposes, as “660” is bigger, better, longer, stronger, etc. than “200”.

11 minutes ago, freddy333 said:

I have not purchased any dials (Daytonas only) from MQ recently, but, unless he now has a budget line, most of his reasonably accurate dials started $1k. So I cannot offer much guidance there. Yuki stuff, again as I have not purchased anything from him in several years, is usually good quality. Hopefully, another member with more recent aftermarket parts purchase experience can offer more specific insights.
Your gen pricing seems about right.

Freddy,

He’s quoting me $320 on this dial, which is described as “Professionally Refinished”

http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1096&category_id=146&keyword=5513&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

I also asked about this White Meters First, but he did not quote me in his reply. I’ve since asked again for a price.

http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1093&category_id=146&keyword=5513&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Maybe same price? But won’t assume anything at this point.

I STILL haven’t decided on White or Aged, but either of these dials look pretty good to me...

I can’t tell from his photos if his $250(!) Refinished hands are flat or curved.  I’ve asked him about that and my desire to get matching dial/hands but he is pretty brief and did not answer my question.

Here are the hands:

“Patina”

http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=629&category_id=130&keyword=5513&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

“White”

http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=748&category_id=130&keyword=5513&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

ALSO, I tried to ask him if his re-fin dials are luminous, but did not answer.  Does anyone know if they are - that’s a plus for me on this project.

My wife is Vietnamese, perhaps he would correspond via Skype...

On 10/26/2017 at 3:59 PM, freddy333 said:

Ditto Ditto Ditto (search out 'Mr. Slimeball' for details).

As for dials, hands and casebacks, unfortunately, after the movement, those are the most costly components. If you have the cash, only a gen dial would do. If you spend alot on an aftermarket dial, eventually, you will end up having wasted that money when you end up biting the bullet & replacing it with a gen (by which time will cost 200% more than it will cost today).

Same with hands, which can often be found on ebay or the vintagerolexforum sales pages.

For a caseback, due to the scarcity/cost of a gen, I think your best bet is simply to purchase a good rep with a caseback that is made to gen specs. Alternatively, you can try either Phong or Yuki, because they used to offer gen-sized backs. However, be prepared to pay handsomely for them. For that reason, especially since a Sub caseback is a plain-Jane affair that is very difficult to ID on an otherwise gen-looking watch, I think the rep caseback is the way to go.

Thanks for the advice.

I’m estimating that it would take $1500-3500 for a dial, $400-1000 for hands, bezel insert $1000-3000 (I haven’t seen a genuine, vintage BEZEL for sale).

So, $3000-7500 for dial/hands/Insert.

Sound about right?

Original case backs seem to be $900-1500.

MQ quoted me (no prices on website) the following:

28 minutes ago, jackflash said:

I haven't had a problem with the WSO bezel assembly in the past. If you don't go for gen, I would go for a Yuki insert and either a Yuki or Athaya pearl. Yuki's is way overpriced but better finished, the Athaya pearl needs access plastic trimmed, it's just as good as Yuki's when done. While you are at Athaya they have decent 700 crowns too. Part links below:

 

WSO bezel assembly:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BEZEL-INSERT-SPRING-RETAINING-OLD-ROLEX-SUBMARINER-5513-1680-S-STEEL-BLACK-/160658405953?hash=item2567fcba41

 

Yuki insert:

http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/9020785/10270361.htm

 

Athaya pearl:

http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-rolex-pearl-dot-pips/

 

Athaya 700 crown and tube:

http://parts.athayavintage.com/product/aftermarket-700-crown-and-tube/

 

Here’s a shot of the WSO bezel assembly on my 5517 with a T19 service crystal:

 

And the Yuki insert on my MBW 5513, also with WSO 580 endlinks and gen-spec 2mm springbars. Helenarou dial with re-worked lume, ETA 2846 movement with mixed handset (Clark & Rafflestime):

Well, I pulled the trigger on a WSO Bezel & Insert with plastic- rimmed pearl - I’ll see how it works out.

Just installed gen 703 Crown & Tube.

4 minutes ago, highoeyazmuhudee said:

WSO parts are garbage. Bought many, returned all. I would stay away.

Thank you!

Whom can you recommend for a Bezel/Insert/Spring?

14 minutes ago, jackflash said:

Unfortunately, the triangle marker at 12 is too short on the Yuki meters first dial. It will bug you when you start comparing it to a gen. You may prefer to go for a MQ dial instead. More expensive, but closer to a gen.
http://vintagewatchesmq.com/minhquy/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1093&category_id=146&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Thank you! Exactly the type of input I was hoping for.  How about hands (flat?) to go with that dial?

I’ve emailed MQ for price and details on hands.

Still looking for recommendations on Bezel/Insert/Spring.

Chris

I was hoping to get some input on where to get a good dial/handset, but...

I’m thinking about Yuki. They have a matte, meters first (seems the be the proper style). The White is too white and the Yellow is...too yellow.

is there a way I can uniformly age the white dial & hands, for a tan color?

Are there dials/hands actually luminous?

I also see that Yuki sells a 5513 case back for $200 - seems reasonable.

WSO990 sells a Bezel/Insert/Spring with a proper lume pip (no metal rim) for about $100.

Anyone out there have opinions on these parts or have a better recommendation?

thanks, Chris

2 hours ago, Lucacoach81 said:

Hello! For inspiration... Mine built 5513.
I Love it!


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

OK, very nice. Hands/dial/bezel//insert - source?

6 hours ago, sputim said:

Nice! If I were you I d go with a vietnam caseback until you find a gen one. The case itself you could leave as it is (cleane it properly and replace the springbars).

For a dial I would consider a gen one since you are using a gen dial. Meanwhile I‘d use a nice vietnam (there are better than yuki) dial so you can take your time to find the right and also period correct dial.

Good luck with your build


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you mean use gen dial, since gen movement & case?

Exactly which style dial is correct for this 3rd quarter ‘67 case?

2 minutes ago, marqtz said:

What is the size, diameter of the retainer you are looking for?

Don’t know - current retainer may be good for bezel assembly to be purchased.  I assume it is factory spec.

I can buy an assembly (less retainer) for $70-80 on eBay. 

Complete, with retainer, $80-150.

The bezel insert shown in my photos may be better than any aftermarket I can buy - so, waiting for someone to chime in.

Thanks

Chrus

I acquired a 5513 case & back in very rough condition (back appears to have been removed with a chisel or punch).  The back is non-salvageable.

I have an insert (not sure of model) and the dial in the photos is (OP DATE, although obviously meant to be a 5512)

I have installed a gen Triplock Crown & Tube, along with a plexi.

I have since put together a 1570 with the date components removed and it is serviced and running.

I need the following to complete:

1. Dial

2. Hands

3. Case Back

4. Bezel assembly (retainer is questionable)

I just want to end up with a functioning watch that I can stand to look at, without the expense of additional genuine parts.

The case dates to 1967.

Meters first dial, right? Gilt?

I’d like to stick with whatever dial was appropriate to my year.

Reasonably aged color, prefer luminous.

Is there a “one stop” source for the dial & hands so that the colors will match?  I looked at Yuki’s and they have several 5513 dials (“gilt”, Explorer, meters first, white, aged, etc.), but I only saw 1 set of hands, which are aged and fir 3035/3135 - will those even fit 15XX movements?

There are are several eBay sellers with bezel parts/assemblies- again, I would like to lean toward proper configuration.

I’m not prepared to pay $8-1200 for a genuine case back and wonder if there is an alternative that will properly seal the case.

I know I’m taking the shortcut, as there is lots of good information to search here, but am looking for some help.

thanks,

Chris

1 hour ago, alligoat said:

That's interesting! I went to NDTradingcorp.com and their site is up and running. I thought they were gone. Certainly would be easier ordering from them since before they were in California/CONUS. 

On top of the price and description, they both offered “free shipping”, MQ  via DHL.

Any opinions on the bezel sets?

I’m thinking about getting a replica Bakelite set for my genuine 6542.

It presently has the aluminum set.

I contacted Minh Quy & ND Trading.

They both quoted $380 and “Replacement Special Quality”.

I guess they are the same, like Father & Son Phong?

I do like the aged colors, vs. some of the “NOS” versions. 

Comments are welcomed.

Chris

5 hours ago, Caci said:

Thought this was interesting...

This is like my donor watch for my Daytona Build.  Maybe I should buy a V72 and...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302278701839 

Link is not working. eBay completed auction, Paul Garnier Scuba, $7500.

Item # 302278701839

Thought this was interesting...

This is like my donor watch for my Daytona Build.  Maybe I should buy a V72 and...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302278701839 

I see that EBay seller WHOLESALEOUTLET990 sells a band, which they say is for my 94300 and other Big Blocks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/161737341961 

I questioned them as to proper fit and their reply was:

"Some customer have used it and if it does not work you can mail it back for refund."

Not very encouraging, but at $39.90 shipped, I'll roll the dice.

5 hours ago, Caci said:

I've got a Gen 94300 Big Block due in tomorrow. The correct ends for a 78360 bracelet seem to be "589".

Are these available aftermarket?

Is there an acceptable alternative endpiece?

Thanks, Chris

13 hours ago, Pombok said:

 

Caci, is that a yuki dial? Did you build it, or is it out of the box?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Built watch, V72. I'm not sure of the dial, as I bought it 10 years ago! I think it was shipped from Hong Kong. Upper text is a little bold, although I've seen some gen "DAYTONA" font that look similar. 

I don't know how to link my original thread.

It is titled "Daytona Build" from April of last year...

...contains all the gory details.