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TickleShoes

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Posts posted by TickleShoes

  1. Has anyone else experienced a very jerky movement when setting the time on their SH3132?


    The hand stack isn't very tight so the whole thing can wobble but if you mean that it feels kinda like "gears" instead of smooth it's the cannon pinion. I struggled with them for while being too loose, but too tight and you get that jerky feeling.
  2.  
    That was the last piece I got to two years ago on mine trying to figure out what needed to be replaced. Replaced the jumper, spring, finger, then finally the yoke and jewel. 


    The newest Yuki/SH3135 parts are improved enough to work. The post for the jewel is taller and goes all the way up the jewel. The old one was only half-height so it would pop out. (New on the left, not that you can see the jewel post)

    8d0033ba36368c1b1eb3526be0899b52.jpg

    It's also squared off from milling vs the older rounded stamped piece, so the spring holds it better.

    Also, just an FYI - the Startime/Swiss sliding and winding pinions work as well.
  3. A
    I already found the getaway
    Sliding and winding pinions has to be gen
    The problem with yuki and gen parts is the rep and gen are not the same quality and they giving up sometimes


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Agreed. Winding and sliding pinions fixed it on mine. Also a gen or newer Yuki cam yoke for date will hold the jewel perfectly. Goes back and forth perfectly. Even reverses the date wheel backwards.
  4. Is the JF no date movement ok to run without tear down and service [mention=78899]TickleShoes[/mention]?  Is it nessary since they have so much updating or are they shat also as shipped?


    They can be. Like any Asian rep, some work fine out of the box and then some, like the Explorer that @WatchSpaz got, the minute hand didn't turn with the seconds hand. So the timegrapher looked fine but the watch didn't work = loose cannon pinion.

    So yeah, it's still hit or miss. Good news vs. the SA is that I have tons of spare parts and a reasonable service fee. :p
    Is the "date changing" problem is eliminated in JF3135? Sorry, I can't find that in review.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Date change is still an issue. Turns out the earlier movements had a slotted disc where the latest ones don't. Don't quick change a JF date after midnight. (Like Gremins) lol
  5. Aha, good to know
    [mention=78899]TickleShoes[/mention] Is that red movement holder a Horotec 09-010-25?  Been looking for a 3135 movement holder, and can only find this one, it states for a 3035 Rolex movement?


    It is and it works fine for 3135. But I'd suggest this one. He's a watchsmith from CA and machines these himself. They're reps of the real Rolex holders and are AMAZING! He's also making me one for eta 28XX and custom mainspring winders.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/112283564583
    • Like 2
  6. Hey gang! Exciting new update. I had a chance to strip down a JF Explorer with a 3132 and... its different! In a good way Several parts have been changed to eliminate the date function. It's not just a 3135 with date parts missing. They actually changed the keyless so that the crown only has 2 positions! Super cool. The distance plate for dial (3130-148), setting jumper (3130-230) and cover mechanism (3130-236) are all gen spec. The yoke itself (3130-240) is different and it uses a custom yoke for setting wheel instead of the base 3135-266 but it's a nice development. I haven't measured the seconds wheel or minute pinion but the hour wheel is different too!

     

    3132 is on the right

     

    38f86fbccd11be6db27b0f0de1090da8.jpg

     

    7686b046db46e7111b5574c67d578a78.jpg

     

    20b72ab451d2d9862cf62f1d73241243.jpg

     

    bd3eb8be1fa3b93ef19e09bd5d7a1f9b.jpg

     

    • Like 3
  7. The yolk and most of the date works was terrible on my first-gen Yuki. I rebuilt most of it with Gen parts just to get it to run right. 


    I've heard that was the case and likely where the suggestion to put in gen parts got started. I've mostly gotten 2nd gen movements and they've been totally fine.
  8. Much further than that but I'm going to take it anyway. You never know what kind of tips and tricks you can pick up from different watchmakers. I'd really like to start learning lathe techniques and advanced troubleshooting. Especially tracking down low amplitude. That tends to be where I spend (waste?) the most time.

     

    Also - let's go with "Refined Watch Group."  I like it!

    • Like 1
  9. Finally got my JF Yachmaster and tore down the movement. It's definitely a Yuki 3135. Here are some highlights:

    - Different (better?) datewheel print
    - Different yoke for cam (don't know why)
    - Engraved bridges (3135 too small though)
    - definitely NOT *fully serviced

    The last bullet - it appears that the winding bridge and auto assembly have been nicely cleaned and oiled which makes sense if they removed them to do the engraving. Performance out of the box was standard low-amp Yuki. The finish was nice and shiny on the engraved parts but still dull on the rest of the movement. Pics below. JF is on the left.

    0a94f37e58b5c127c2806db10827c19d.jpg

    edd99a8a12eb770f888ed10543a67dab.jpg

    6a5bc4a0c0a38b51029dade460275c04.jpg

    9fdb5236e8f787fefe185891d05c4719.jpg

    7ad9129a08693b9f447151fdcac8a160.jpg

    56e146024999deffefb02981a864f574.jpg

    I didn't take pics of everything because they're identical otherwise.

    • Like 3
  10. 34 minutes ago, irolexu said:

    that explains the reason YUKI is out of stock. Sounds like JF is the big fish in buying up those movements for their use.. I have stocked YUKI 3135 with engravings and paid yuki prices and now seems like you can just buy a JF and get extra parts out the deal.. someone needs to rip their JF and yuki to confirm this?? Is this fully confirmed? 

     

    Actually I've always been able to get them.  Yuki had just kept the "Out of Stock" on his site because he was selling in bulk to a few people only. Going forward, he's just letting me handle movement sales.  I think part of the reason is that a lot were coming back to him either damaged or not working and it's easier to let someone service them first, as he suggested.  I'll have plenty more in stock soon and because I placed a massive order. In return I can sell them for $275 stock or $385 serviced.  If you're in the market for a JF, sure, still might be worth it vs. the movement only. 

     

    I've got a JF Yachtmaster, Air King, and Explorer to do a full teardown comparision, but yeah, I think we're all agreed they're the same movement.

  11. Just thought I'd say hi!  Got my feet wet in the other forums but am happy to find RWG.  I own Crown & Skull Watchworks and have been providing serviced Yuki 3135s for over a year now. My interest in reps goes beyond the aesthetic and is more in the technical/mechanical. So I'm thrilled to have found a lot of members here who feel the same. Looking forward to contributing!

     

    CS.

    • Like 3
  12. Hey guys!  Thought I'd chime in since I'm Crown & Skull :)  And you may know me from other forums.  I just got clued into the JF vs. Yuki movement recently and I have a JF Yachtmaster incoming.  So the story with me and Yuki is that I started buying his movements in bulk to preservice for forum members. Takes all the risk of them getting a bunk movement and I can ensure parts aren't broken and they're working properly. Recently he's asked me to be the main seller as he's not set up to service them ahead of time.  So that's where I come in.

     

    As for this recently development.... it doesn't look good (for me).  Until I get one in my hands I won't know for sure, but damn if they don't look identical.  The biggest giveaway between the Noob SA and the Yuki was always the balance and winding bridge. The slot for the hacking mechanism is crooked in relation to the engraving vs. the Yuki and gen which is 90 degrees to the engraving. But even bigger tell is that the hairspring on the Noob SA is wound in the opposite direction!  The Yuki and JF both have the hairspring terminal on the opposite side of the regulator vs. the Noob SA.  I gotta say, if this is true it'll be a huge kick in the nuts as I was paying damn near that for a single movement BEFORE servicing :(  

     

    Anyway - I'll post a full breakdown when I get my Yachtmaster unless one of you fellas beats me to it. Thanks.

    • Like 3
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