infinitime

My past experiences with the Asian 7750 (new version) is that it is very reliable. In both the Navitimer and Omega SMP chrono examples, they have been extremely accurate and reliable. Accordingly, I would not want to spend an extra $400 for a Swiss unit. I too am in the market for a EVO chrono, but am currently undecided as to whether I want a black one with the baton markers, or the one with the arabic numerals. The former looks more classy, but too often the batons are not aligned exactly right. The arabic numerals would be unique, but it doesn't glow in the dark. Does anyone have pictures of a black faced version with arabic numerals?

On a related note, I had the new Navitimer clone (which I just sold this week), with the added gearing for the 3-6-9 configuration... I didn't find the added gearing to be particularly straining on the base movement.

Hi Finepics, Can you tell me where you were able to source an ETA datewheel for the Asian 7750? Are the two datewheels interechangeable without any other modifications?

I think you are referring to a different watch. The model I was inquiring about is the Seamaster Chronograph 300M, NOT the Planet Ocean...

Glad to see that someone is already doing modifications on this new model... Quick question about the hands, why does it need to be replaced? It looks almost exactly the same as the genuine ones from pictures?

Is there more than one version of the “new” Omega Seamaster Pro chronograph? I am referring to the blue-dialed version with the new Asian 7750 movement, with the subdials at the 6-9-12 configuration. The reason I ask is that while all the pictures I’ve seen from various dealer appear to be of the same watch, there is a wide disparity in the price, ranging from $239 all the way up to $350? As far as I can tell, the quality appears to be all the same, or am I missing something when I look at the different pictures. In fact, the only “flaw” I could see is that with some of the earlier samples, the bezel is not properly aligned. Otherwise, the dials, movement, case, bracelet all appear to be identical, all having screws instead of pins in the bracelet… On a related note, can anyone spot any more flaws with this model, when compared to the genuine article? After staring at pictures of the genuine article and visiting an AD this afternoon, I can’t really see any difference between the rep and the genuine. No flaws on the dial or case, or in the placement of the buttons as far as I can tell. In fact, the only flaws appear to be a mis-aligned bezel and a pearl which is slightly too large for the 12 o'clock triangle.

I have just noticed that there are two different types of chrono pushers on the TAG HEUER link models... depending if you get the brushed bezel or the polished bezel, the chrono pusher buttons are either oval or angular??? From pictures of the genuine article, it appears that all gens have the angular shaped pushers only, why would a rep manufacturer CREATE an entirely different pusher shape? The following pictures of the two variants are borrowed from Paul's website, but all the ones I've seen seem to fall into these two variants, depending on whether it has a brushed or polished bezel...

I don't know if it is better overall, but SEAGULL already makes a ETA2824 clone, which is better finished and uses interchangeable parts with the ETA version. It is labelled at the Seagull ST-18 . The ST-19 is a perfect clone of a 1960s manual wind chronogph made in Switzerland by Venus, the Venus-175, which was used extensively in many chronographs of that era. By voluntarily removing themselves from the market, the Swiss are creating a vacuum for the entry of Chinese producers, who will undoubtedly take up a larger percentage of the market.

I don't want to be the naysayer on this one, but I too was very enthusiastic about these new IWC models when they first came out... however, after examining pictures of the original, it appears that there are two telling flaws which clearly set them apart from the genuine article. Firstly, the spacing of the text near the day/date window is noticeably different from the original... Secondly, the "day" window displaying day of the week is often crooked, and not properly centered in the window. While these deficiencies are not likely to be noticeable the casual observer, it bugs me that the first flaw could have been avoided, if the manufacturer took a little bit more care in copying the dials. In this regard, I think both the Seamaster chrono and the Tag Heuer Link chrono are much closer to the real thing.... Just my two cents...

Thanks!

I distinctly remember one of our sellers selling a rather ingenious product - thick springbars for both the Panerai 24mm and 26mm lugs (for the 44mm and 47mm models respectively). These springbars were unique in that they had a etched bar down the centre on either end, and were machined to the same size sa the original screws on the Panerai models. When installed, they actually look like the screws. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the original posting anymore, despite searching high and low on this forum. Would anyone know of a source for these? Thanks in advance!

I've put several deepish scratches on the back of my Navitimer-clone, which had an original mirror-like polished finish. I was able to buff it out using a Dremel rotary tool, with the felt polishing disc and a dab of 421 polishing compound. It takes time, and you should be careful as to not OVER-polish, which take off too much metal...

Thanks for your input! I didn't realize the transfer wheels were actually over the date wheel. In hindsight, I agree with you that I should have stuck with the 12-6-9 layout model, as it would certainly be more reliable (due to less parts) and a better looking date window. Unfortunately, the only "new model" Navitimer I've seen with that configuration is the Series Speciale, which has a tacky caseback. I am sure in due course, other models will appear. I actually like the watch enough that I would consider getting another with the correct configuration!

I just received a black-dialed Navitimer which I had order from Ruby! It is a beeeautiful watch, with very intricated fashioned dial, hands, and case. The big surprise was the distinct purpleish tinge of the AR coating on the inside of the crystal... overall, a beautiful piece. My only complaint is that given the subdial layout, with the 3-6-9 configuration, the movement needed a whole bunch of additional gears under the dial, to make the 7750 movement work properly (the conventional layout of the 7750 is a 6-9-12 subdial arrangement). As such, there is a big gap between the dial and the actual movement, to accomodate for the added gearing. This creates a "sunken" look to the date window, which is much more pronounced on the actual watch than those pictures shown by the dealer. I am wondering if i could correct this by filling in the gap, by gluing on ANOTHER datewheel ON TOP of the existing one, in effect creating a raised date wheel, which would fill up the gap between the dial and the movement? Do you guys think this would be feasible? I would be interested in knowing if anyone has attempted this, and where I may be able to source a date wheel for the 7750?