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esdee

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Posts posted by esdee

  1. i purchased noctiluminova and i was satisfied by its results,

    at the pics below in the left there is my invicta russian diver, that has a decent lume (not superluminova, but 10 times better than the poor standard lum most reps have) and at the right there is my project 127 sandwich dial,

    you can also see the time elapsed in the left dial.

    dunno who tritec performs but noctilum is very nice for me

    dsc0784zm4.th.jpg

    dsc0786ji8.th.jpg

    dsc0787mv5.th.jpg

    dsc0788lg2.th.jpg

    dsc0789qw1.th.jpg

    dsc0789bx7.th.jpg

    dsc0790uw0.th.jpg

    dsc0791qe2.th.jpg

    dsc0792gb7.th.jpg

    open the thumbnails because at the last pics low res shows nothing,

    ofcourse everytime i took a pic the camera settings where the same

  2. Did you use 1mm thickness solder and NOT a 1mm pin tip from the iron itself?

    yeap 1mm thickness of solder, no an extra small piece of pin

    Did you polish both sides of the lever pin or just the larger diameter side?

    i polished the large diameter side of the pin (the one thats visible know)

    on the back side of the crown guard if you cut that small amount of solder that will come out when you press the pin its very easy to polish the solder too because its so soft!

  3. ok, 127 is my holy grail

    i have an 127 that i wear daily an another one that i use to pretest all my mods...

    the easiest must be the lever mod, but i didn't like the idea of using silicon... so what? so i used soldering iron!

    but lets see the whole process with pics (i know you like them!)

    first of all how my fiddy's lever pin looked like

    pinbeforeyl5.jpg

    :yuk:

    and this is how the gen looks!

    genze0.jpg

    so lets start!

    first of all i removed the pin and attached it to my dremel!

    it's like a lathe compared to the size of the pin!:lol:

    pinindremelxp5.jpg

    look how crappy the surface of the pin looks!

    then i placed a sandpaper (i think it was size 800) on a flat surface and flattened the pin

    pinflattendrk9.jpg

    and the pin turned into this!

    flat and shiny, just the way we like it! :cheesy:

    pinindremelafterqn2.jpg

    now what i did is i put some 1mm solder iron

    solderingironcrownguarduo2.jpg

    all the way to the back side of the hole that the pin inserts like this

    solderinginsertedinirontv4.jpg

    here you have to make sure the soldering iron comes all the way out the back of the pin hole

    then you cut the solder you don't need like this

    i used a wire cutter for electronics you can use whatever you like, maybe a razor!

    wheretocutsolderingmo9.jpg

    and the solder that remains should look like this

    solderinplacewf0.jpg

    then you place the lever in place and insert the pin,

    the pin should stand like this because of the solder on the second hole

    insertedpintk8.jpg

    and now press the pin inside!

    now compare the before and now pin!

    beforeafterrq8.jpg

    on the back of the crown guard you will see some solder pushed out by the pin, i used a razor to cut the solder that came out, and the back got also this very nice flat look!

    finishedpinbackwi8.jpg

    hope you liked it guys! :nerd:

  4. I'll take that bet, and take your money. Go to a Panerai boutique sometime and see for yourself. Single AR on all PAMs I've seen with AR. Flav's 111I - single AR. It's just the PAM way (unfortunately).

    Also, I agree with the other poster on the inconsistency of hue on PAMs... There could be a number of reasons for this, so it's not really worth speculating. But, as I've always said, and will continue to say... It's not the precise hue of the AR that matters. It's the quality of the coating and the degree to which it does what it's supposed to do.... inhibit reflections! A blue tinted crystal that doesn't reduce reflections like the gen watch isn't interesting to me. A true genuine AR coating will make your crystal disappear, and yes, in some lighting conditions show a slight tint.

    So please be wary of companies who are providing specific colors for AR. The color of AR is merely a result of a chemical reaction between the coating itself and the substrate to which it is applied - and should not be due to some sort of artificial dye injected by the coater. Genuine watches with AR do not have dyes!!!

    totally agree, fan of the correct AR on each watch rather than a bling bling look for a pam,

    after all anyone who has no knowledge on replicas/watches will be amazed just by the word panerai on your dial, even if you AR is purple with little elephants :lol:

    the trained eye will catch the fake AR within 5 seconds... and everyone who knows and will try to take a closer look will find out its a rep,

    its the degree of accuracy to the gen that matters (personal opinion)

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