Toadtorrent

If it looks like the screws not long enough, you can look at getting a new screw from a jewellers or a watch repair guy...or you can try and drill the hole slightly deeper on the crown guard so the screw seats lower down. Take a look at the screw and see if part of the tip snapped off...that may tell you what happened. Another alternative is the crown guard may be "upside down". You can try flipping it and see if that fits better (the lever will obviously open the other direction)...or try switching screws. One might be longer than the other.

Indeed. And if he's strapped for time...there sound like there are a few other members here with "the know how" as well which again shows the wealth of knowledge on this forum...crazy!!

There you go...thanks!! I'm guessing that's another flaw on many of the non-black reps then, as I've seen the B used on all dial colours. I learn something new everyday. Cheers!

I thought the SMP Chrono on bracelet was heavy...and it is...but sticking the Skyland on leather makes the thing very comfortable...not so top heavy, and I would actually wear it as a daily piece. In fact on leather or rubber, the watch isn't that bad at all in terms of mass. I updated the post to fix some errors in the conclusion pointed out above, added an Ocean Racer deployment pic of UB7's, and updated V3 bracelet availability.

Uuuuuh...nice first post...but what good is it without the pictures????? Nice start to joining the board. You came to the right spot.

Glad to hear you got the old one out. I am surprised how much heat is actually required to break the bonds. You will find the same thing applies to removing crowns from stems. As to needing to tap the case...like Freddy says...you will know when you dive in. It really depends on who in China did the machining. What is "supposed" to happen is that the cases are 1:1 and the new oem tube screws in just fine. Sorry...let me catch me breath...that was a good one!!! If you read a previous thread in the Search from I think Freddy, you will find even the Gen Rollies have problems as parts often require special sized, non-standard Rolex tool bits because of particular generations of parts. This often applies with low-grade QC/QA CN manufacturing. Ideally, have the tools and spare tubes on hand...dive in and find out. Like Freddy says...if it screws in easily...you don't need to tap. If it doesn't...you need to tap.

Like Andrew said...the V2 isn't out yet. Angus keeps saying it should be released soon. The preview pics look very promising. Bear in mind...there are 2 factories making the Blacksteel and the SS. The coating process on the V2 shooooould be better than the V1/V3 as it's supposedly the same as the gen vs. PVD on the V1...but we also don't have a price on the V2 so that will be interesting. I would consider a V1/V3 in SS for $75 less, and then apply that savings to the extra cost for the V2...whatever that extra cost may be. All Skylands are really made to a high level of quality with flaws being pretty minor and likely noticeable only under high magnification to somebody who frequents this board.

I keeping popping by there on the way to the office and keep staring at the Bentley sign saying they open in October. Uuuh...hello...it's October... When they were open, they did have the SOSF and the Blackbird...those were nice.

...and @ Lani...that black and red SMP Chrono looks good...and I'm definitely wearing this:

Bling-a-licious! I saw a fully iced (bracelet, bezel, EVERYTHING) BCE (I think) for sale on Craigslist in Vancouver...crazy. Yup...the Sea Dweller looks good...and Freddy the Rolex-master should know!!

...I'm sorry...we're you saying something? I got distracted.

Antique and pawn shops who are selling them as genuine either knowingly or innocently. I have a friend who collects similar watches and he says unlike the rep forums and collectors here, there is a higher proportion (in his experience) of people doing the fraud thing and selling a rep as a gen...as opposed to collectors here who sell reps as reps. Mind you...on the Bay you get a number of folks doing the fake as gen thing too. YMMV...otherwise no.

I can help out...let me know what you need. I've used MyPublisher and Blurb for books a number of times. Blurb is cheaper generally...but the quality is better with MP. MP also has a 50% off sale on too...that's the only time I use them. Regular price is still 45% off if you have a Costco membership.

The rubber seems pretty good...softer than the IWC CD. Check out Lanikai's diver pics...he's got lots of the Grey on rubber.

Yowzaaa!! Fast death from getting clobbered...or slow death from pollution. Yikes. It's probably also a reflection of where they might live...if that's an acceptable place to play.

Yup...you're absolutely right...I'll change it in a bit. Good catch. I have to change the bracelet availability too...things that happen when you don't have an editor. Thanks for all the encouragement folks...it's fun to write them up and take pictures. I just need to get some By-Tor watch photo saavy!! I'm too lazy to make a light tent.

Yeah it happens. I've had them held up to 4 days (counting a weekend)...as fast as 3 hrs...and average is 24-36hrs in Canada.

The rep world requires patience. That you will learn. Silix (Jay) may take a few days to get back to you...not super fast like some of the others...but for me, reliable. People have had bad experiences WITH ALL the collectors pretty much (a couple come to mind as the exception)...but reliable they are. Read the collector review section and you will learn the nuances of the different collectors. Give Admin a couple days...he'll get back to you. If QC/QA is not up to your standards...communicate with the vendor and you may have to send the watch back (always at YOUR cost)...and he'll ship another to you at HIS cost. If you have to return a watch...expect up to a 2 month delay (slow mailing back...courier is not recommended)...and then mailing return.

I have a very similar rig in Nikon film format to what you listed above, but haven't bought a digital body yet. D200's can be had for a decent price too. They lack a lot of the features of the D300 and D700...but cost substantially less, and if you are used to film, you will not notice these features (e.g. live view) except for the full frame CCD. My P&S is a G9, but like 99% of the P&S's out there...it sucks on the wide angle end. There are few PS cameras that shoot wider than 28mm...which is way too long for me for 75% of my general shooting. The G10 improves on the wide end...but as fast as the G9 is...it's still achy-slow compared with any DSLR.

There's a lot of truth here. If you want reliable...easy maintenance...less finicky...definitely go quartz...without question. That ticking subdial running seconds bugs me though and screams fake too loudly to me even though 99.9999999999% of the population would have no clue of the difference. As well, I like the nature of mechanical watches...so I go for the much more expensive, harder to maintain, delicate, etc. 7750 movements. Is it rational? No...not really. @dmastah12...maybe you should do a little close up comparison of the gen, the A7750 based one and the cheap quartz one!! I haven't heard of anybody doing this...it would be interesting to see. I've just done the comparison with the IWC CD's...and there was a big difference no matter what the collectors say. Mind you...what I consider a big difference may be extremely minor to the next person.

Welcome aboard...and I like how you're posting your progression of knowledge gain! You're on the right track...and there is SOME truth to what the "go quartz" post said. Here are some challenges you will find: There are few "super" reps of the types of watches you look interested in Super Rep = EXTREMELY accurate Although collectors will say their Quartz versions use a "similar" case, or are "from the same factory"...the quartz models are 9 times out of 10 quite inferior (in terms of accuracy)...bad dials, bad casebacks...sub-dial spacing...you really have to research and compare the pics closely to the gen to make sure you're getting what you want Functional accuracy is lacking on moon phases What this means is, you can still get a fantastic looking watch of decent quality for a great price (just over $100), but you won't get the latest generation of extremely accurate to gen watches for the same price. It all depends on what your priorities are. If you just want a great looking watch...go quartz, and buy what fancies you. If you want something that is almost indistinguisable from a gen...you'll have to spend more...sometimes a lot more. BTW...have never heard of watcheden before...don't know if anybody around here has...so buyer beware...you're on your own on this one.

I like it. I wonder if Silix' non-Happy Feet Omega ("ohm") from his UPO dial would fit as a swap to fix that one? Not a huge deal...just curious. I do like the applique style of the Omega and name on the dial regardless...excellent. I look forward to the closeups. The black is definitely "the one" for this piece...especially given you already have the blue.

I've gone through the same debate and went with a compact P&S after normally using pro SLR film gear. The last handful of extended shoots I've worked on have me realize it would be nice to have both, but I would likely use the P&S more. The P&S can suffice for 90% of the time, but a bunch of that time you will complain that it isn't fast enough, you wish you had a specific lens instead of the limits of the P&S, too much noise under low light, etc. Using the SLR you will realize that that is the best way to get quality images...but your shoulders will hurt from carrying 20 lbs of kit, and it's too bulky to get intimate with subjects without extended time warming them up, and you will likely miss many photo opportunities because you didn't want to carry the big kit. So with the P&S, you will capture more keepers and have usable shots than an SLR and have a more continuous stream of photo-documentation, but the images won't be as good quality (depth of field control, low light noise, focus control/tracking, softness/sharpness, etc) as the DSLR. The big question then is...are you using the pics for business and publishing? If so what is the quality of the clients expected by the client? OR, are you shooting for personal pleasure and the less discerning public (i.e. family for family photos)? If you need top quality for freelance work...DSLR is the only way to go...otherwise a P&S may suffice.

Chick the "links" at the top...and look for Collector or Dealer websites...can't remember which. Each dealer listed for the most part has a good reputation. Every dealer has their issues...maybe it's price...maybe it's quality of English...maybe it's delays in communication...etc...so read the reviews of each dealer and decide who you feel comfortable with.

Aaaah...all clear now. I was wondering if the rep had a 30s chrono...I didn't think the A7750 could do this. Thanks!