Toadtorrent

Great story for a cool watch...

2006 IWC Cousteau Diver on order from Silix...we'll see how it looks on my skinny wrists. The vintage updated Daytona 37mm manual with fixed-6 is calling too...not too accurate with the big Coronet (which actually matches a gen vintage Rollie I have) and the symmetrical chrono pushers...but you have to admit it has some serious under-stated style.

Indeed. Odds are good though, if it stands the beer glass test...it can stand a swim test. Good test idea. This will be of interest to anybody who's interested in a gold or partially gold watch.

Welcome aboard...and you've come to the right spot. I hate to break it to you Pugilist...but you might have been pummelled. Exactreplicas Search on RWG Paying for dealer errors via buyer paying return shipping is standard...that's not the issue. The issue is inflated prices and much lower quality. If you haven't done much research to date...you might think the watch is alright...but when you read the volumes of info from the true libraries of info that is the user base here, you will start to realize what level of quality and value is really out there from the recommended dealers. Read, research...buy a rep from the dealers here...be amazed and upgrade your membership to be a Supporter based on the money you save.

I agree. To be honest, I'm not so WIS that the crown guards bug me so much that I actually work on modding the watch. Don't get me wrong, I know how to spot them...it just doesn't bug me that much. However, dry, even rusty movements that fail...cheap, thin datewheels that fall off, sticker letters on rotors that fall off instead of engraving...crap like that bugs me. I can buy a cheap $50 Swatch and it will last for 10 years with 1 battery change. I buy a $450 "super rep" and the movement dies within a couple months??? I would like to see better movement options for the watches...maybe not Swiss ETA upgrades now that 7750s cost so much...but if there was higher end more cost effective option...that would be great. THAT...and questionable water resistance. If a $50 Swatch without srewdown crown can be used for close to diving depth...why not a $400 rep with screw down crown and o-rings??

Full servicing with complete breakdown is what should be done if you want real reliability with your movement. According to the Master, this should be done about every 5 years. Some watches (namely Asian 7750's) should be serviced completely as they are usually installed "dry" and dirty, and only a full cleaning will ensure things run smoothly. If you go for the easy superficial lube, you may well be alright...it depends on the condition of your movement. This may well result in having to replace parts prematurely however, because something got missed...and result in greater cost than desired...especially if it's a genuine movement. Figure out your pricepoint you're willing to walk down. On a cheap $100 Noob watch, a full servicing probably isn't worth it on an inconsistent quality $10 movement...let it run until it dies, and then replace the movement (~$50) with a Miyota which is a cheap bombproof one (~$20) and you will then be good for a number of years.

Awesome...I'm barely 10% of that. Lady V should hit that in another couple days I would think.

Whoops...sorry, wasn't paying attention.

Great tutorial. Thanks!

Use Search for the user By-Tor...he has the answer.

Yeah...thanks! I'm wondering whether or not to ditch my Noob and get one of these. I don't want too many black dial Rollies...right Stephane?

My wife's a Tanq Ten person...I like Saphire...I'll have to try the 209.

Mine had a really loud rotor on it...REALLY loud..."you could hear it spin across the dance floor on a summer Friday night in Ibiza" loud... I'm not so sure it is the DG 2813, as it had the hack feature, which I was led to understand does not exist on the DG 2813. My pearl was a bit of a zit too...nothing an aftermarket insert can't cure... But, like was said earlier...if you're just looking for the dial...no biggie...

You can post the link and ask for opinions. The general consensus however from regular board members is, that the watch is only half the battle. The vendor relationship is the other half. If the vendor you are referring to is unknown to us, we will have no opinions on whether or not you are going to get scammed out of your money or get a piece of junk when what was pictured was close to gen. The dealers referred to in this link are not sponsors of the board, but are merely people who members here have had generally positive experiences with (though arguable in some cases) in terms of quality of product and how much the collector stands by their product in case of failure, damage, etc. If you grab yourself a drink (or 3), settle down to do a lot of reading here (i.e. research), you will find that much of what is sold outside of this board's referrals are lower end reps at high end prices. Some have had good experiences with dealers on iOffer and CQout so, YMMV and as this experience builds up on the board, these new reputable dealers may end up being referred to here too. Good luck!

The case may or may not be different too. TTK always gets the proper case...Josh may or may not. You want the F520117 serial on the case. This one has the proper rehaut etc. Look for my post comparing them...Toad's Noob and Being Post

Very nice V...I think this design is truer to a "tool watch" caseback. The 4 panel shield looked too much like fabricated heraldry...

The risk is still using the A7750 movement with running seconds at 6. Some have good luck with it...others say it's a timebomb due to the strain on the movement with adding the extra gears to move the seconds to 6.

DOOH!!! I didn't even notice the markings...sorry...rookie mistake!! Obviously pointint out the Swiss movement option... Thanks Takashi!!

Hey Lady V...that Portugues is slick Vic!!

All the usual suspects (Andrew, Josh, Angus, etc) carry them...they just aren't $100 anymore...$165 with the new case.

Ditto for Lady V...a very enjoyable read.

From what I have seen, any of the newly released reps (from late 2007 onwards), are having water resistance at about 50m being part of the design. Angus is one of (not the only) few collectors who states water resistance to a certain depth directly on most of his listings. Others (cartel mainly) may offer a waterproofing service which most accounts on this forum state to be bunk and costs an additional $50 USD, and THEN will state their watch can be used for swimming. Only a few (SFSO and the SSD come to mind) will have ALL collectors state water resistance for swimming in the actual watch listing. As an example, here's what I've found (creating an exhaustive list would be...well...exhausting) : ================== DEALER CERTIFIED ================== - AP EOD (Pure Time) - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Terminator 3 (Pure Time) - Breitling Steelfish (all versions...all collectors) - Breguet Type XX Chrono Titanium (Pure Time) - most HBBs (Pure Time) - IWC Aquatimer 371918 and 371928 (Pure Time) - IWC Cousteau Divers (2006 and 2007...Pure Time) - IWC Doppel (Pure Time) - Omega SpeedMaster Day Dates (Pure Time) - Panerai PAM186 Arktos GMT and PAM252 North Pole GMT, Ultimate Edition (Pure Time) - Paul Picot Le Plongeur C-Type Chronograph (Pure Time) - Rolex Super Seadweller (all collectors) ================== RWG USER EXPERIENCE - from various posts on this board ================== - Omega SMPs - Omega SMP Chronos (Gioarmani and others have tested to 100m...mine failed at 3atm) - Omega UPOs - Pam Subs and others - Rolex - most subs including Noobs/Begins/etc Always remember...YMMV...

Angus seems to show 2 options for the rotor...with stickers: and without (seems to be the preferred): Has anybody tried ordering the option for the undecorated rotor??

...there are no stupid question...only because I've asked them already...if you use the search for caseback tool or something like that...you should find what you need. The expensive route is a press-like tool that gets you a lot more torque while safely having the watch mounted in a vice-like base. The cheaper option is a Bergeon Jaxa tool...which is a three pronged tool that has adjustable prongs, and changeable ends to fit the various casebacks (not Rolex). The even cheaper option is a generic Chinese Jaxa you can find on Flea Bay for pretty cheap. The construction on the Bergeon and the Chinese one is very different...but the cheap one is usable...but it doesn't have anywhere near the same quality.

The Di-Modell Imperator in brown looks really good. It's a Moo-Croc and waterproof too. The Strap Shop UK