Toadtorrent

I don't actually do this kind of work...just like to read, search, learn. However, there are those who I trust absolutely, who do: Watchdog and Broaching There's a post by Watchdog who essentially says that broaching is not as simple as picking the right tool, cutting and you're done. It's iterative...meaning you need to under-cut, test fit, maybe cut some more, test fit again, etc, until it actually fits. So, having a "specific" sized tool does not necessarily mean the right solution. In other words, even with the right tool you should still creep up to the "right" size by testing incrementally to get the fit you need.

I agree with you on this one. I like the beauty of the movement with the display back...and like a wrote in another thread, the display back mod did exist on some of the speedies, and was performed by gen owners on others. I would rather have a solid Seagull manual wind movement with wrong spacing and a beautiful manual wind movement visible, than a proper spaced A7750 with display back, or worse, a converted properly spaced A7750 converted to a manual wind.

It's funny that everyone thinks the Overlord looks ugly, as it's probably the only Graham design that makes sense. Given the soda spritzer lever on the side is meant to allow chrono operation for navigation in your unpressurized cockpit wearing thick sheepskin gloves...the colour pattern and fonts are closer to the original heritage of the watch: WWII RAF Halifax Bomber

No sweat. Concepta seems to have access to a lot of gen IWC movements and the occasional dial. So far, the issues of swapping seem the stem alignment due to the thinner gen movement requires a spacer of some sort...and needing to find a fitting solution for the 2 second hands (chrono and running)...whether that is broaching, gluing or what, I have no clue.

The catalogue details I have for the Miyota 8215 show it to be about twice the price of a DG2813, and the hand sizes are a bit different: DG2813 - 155/100/17 Miyota 8215 - 165/100/17 So, I should guess the rep hour hand would have to be broached, press fit and stretched, or a new hour hand would need to be found.

For anyone thinking of going the gen movement route (I know I am), you might want to follow this thread on the project in action: Fitting a Gen 79350 into a Rep IWC Porto

That is great news!! Do you know offhand if the watches were of the same model? I know Watchdog has said he's seen so many variants of the A7750 movement and I have seen posts that this movement is made in a number of different factories, so I'm wondering if any variances in whether the ETA RW fits, might be due to the particular movement used by a particular factory. In other words, are there some factories whose choice of A7750 movement appears more probable to fit versus others? I know this is a very hard answer to give, given we have no idea which variant of the A7750 we are getting in our watches.

If it's the same as using the A7750 hands on a Valjoux 7750, broaching is the better route, but gentle pressure has been known to work as well. This is from what I have READ here (see the A7750 movement swap references in my Noob Guide for details)...not practiced.

I'm with IM. I'm very specific about what watches I want. I think pretty hard about what to purchase before I purchase it. What I've found is, anytime I see a pictorial by Lani or read some of the amazing reviews on this board, or see a fantastic photo in the wristie's...I suddenly want the watch featured. No...I NEED that watch pictured. But...when I sit, stew, think, research some more...wait...think even more...my immediate NEED for that piece starts to wane for 9 of the 10 that I see. Given that I find it very hard to give anything up, selling is not an option for practicalities sake...at least not for me. I'm looking for pieces that fill voids either aesthetic ones (genre, style) or function (chrono, water resistance). BUT, if I see a smokin' deal, I'll usually jump on that. @ chronoluvvv: I don't think selling to buy makes you a dealer necessarily, as there are many who keep a relatively strict practice of a fixed number of watches. If a new one is to be bought...an old one has to be sold. Or, as is the case with lots of folks here...selling many reps to buy a gen.

WOW!!! That thing is awesome.

Yup!!

You can tell him the Omega Ohm is on the HEV on the SMP Chrono...not the UPO.

Did you go green or blue SL? Nothing fixes rotating bezel alignment like some time near the cool sea air.

In the US, Vac is good: Vaccum's Mod Shop ...at least I think he's in the US??? Watchdog is in Canada. He can work on anything...but is generally very busy as he doesn't work on watches as a living but a hobby. His day job is quite time consuming and can involve lots of travel, so you often have to book months ahead...but he's extremely reliable, efficient, professional, and all 'round, a great guy!! Vac from what I read is tops and one of the few people that Watchdog recommends as well.

Bump for fun!!

Are you talking the 3719 "Slevin"? That's a good choice!! The bracelet looks slick.

You hit the nail on the head. There are few modders who have familiarity with chrono movements in general, and A7750 movements even less so. Most watchmakers can service an ETA based movement and can source parts...making them much easier to maintain. Most experienced folks here (myself included) owe Watchdog a debt of gratitude for his knowledge and expertise on this kind of work...he's the master of the A7750 for sure...and has the credibility and professionalism to be trusted with all your gen needs too!!

Movement swaps can be about $50 - $100...depending on chrono vs non-chrono. Servicing an auto can be about $150+. That's why it can be fun if you have an Asian to pick up some tools, spare movements, and experiment...knowing you'll destroy a cheap $10 movement or 3.

Which one? They're great!!

Absolutely not. When watch collecting...owning more than one of a single brand is absolutely unheard of. In the horological world, diversity is the ultimate goal for EVERYONE:

It's not your English...trust me...it's unconfirmed speculation in the rep world. Speedies are very desireable for collectors, but have been plagued with the improper subdial spacing. The trade off has been, with the manual wind "moon watch" variant, they paired improper spacing with a manual wind movement that is beautiful to look at with a display back, that also happens to be a solid, workhorse movement right out of the box. So...with being able to finally get closer (don't know if it's exact the same) subdial spacing, people don't like the idea of it being auto as the original Moonwatch was not auto. Rep manufacturers will likely just do the sapphire "modern" Moon Watch" in auto instead of doing a mod on the movement to make it manual (removing the auto winding parts)...but some are hoping they'll mod the movement to make it manual as well as having the subdial spacing fix. The pursuit of "accuracy" in this watch makes me laugh though. Many don't like the display back as they say it is not "proper" for a Moon Watch and often try to copy the longest run version from the early '70's which has the solid back with the "Flight Qualified by NASA" inscription. To me...what difference does it make? Given the watch worn on the moon didn't have that caseback anyways...as they didn't release that caseback until AFTER the moon mission hence the engraving "The First Watch Worn on the Moon" (yes I know it's supposed to ball CAPS), to shoot for this commemorative series is not much different than shooting for the other series with the display back. But that's me. So, if you're trying to achieve a rep that is more accurate to a Moon Watch...it should not have the solid caseback with the "FLIGHT QUALIFIED...etc" inscription either but something else...so why not just accept inaccuracies and go for the beauty of displaying that fantastic Seagull movement which looks close enough to me to a c. 321 movement?? Besides, many gen owners have done the conversion to their gens to display the movement...and Omega released display casebacks from around 1980 anyways. ...but I digress.

I don't know if I would want the manual wind one with an A7750 movement...even with the newer tight dial spacing layout. Have people forgotten the issues of handwinding movements that were meant for auto-winding?? The Seagull wrong-spaced movement is a workhorse intended for hand winding...but the A7750 was not. Read this thread for more info: Watchdog's Why Handwinding is Bad The article points out handwinding in general is bad...less bad on a newly serviced movement, done at a slow speed...but still bad. If you mod the movement to make it seem "more authentic" by removing the rotor and auto-winding assembly...you'll just end up with a watch that needs regular replacements and more intensive cleaning.

Hah. I didn't know about the date change button on the PAMs. I've never owned a PAM or a 7753 driven watch.

Actually it does make sense. From a legal stance, it protects people who "unknowingly" acquired (however it was done) something counterfeit from incurring legal action...as opposed to the potential to have action against somebody who imports something counterfeit.

I like to complain though.