Amplitude

Funny, I used to be in marketing. But I'm not marketing now so I don't care. (And I only post here in my very precious free time, when I am drinking...) Anyhow, love you guys. The fakes are getting so good that anybody but total watchhounds aren't able to distinguish. The boss won't sell second hand watches at ALL. He buys "stainless steel" watches of any brand but Rolex at $25.00. He doesen't have the time or interest to niggle over details that could get him sued. so it's scrap or nothing for him. That is probably the norm throughout. He scared a poor kid with a "Tag" yesterday telling him not to get it water tested because it wasn't "original", until he looked a little closer and realized it WAS a real TAG-Heuer. (In all fairness, the kid thought it needed a new battery, but it was an automatic. He didn't even know what an automatic is.)

Oh yeah, here's a good simple one for you replica freaks. If you have a "red" sub, or a something of the sort that shares the same movt. type in the genuine, and you want really convincing accuracy, remove the calendar quickset wheel. (you can put it back anytime). Then youll ahve the authentic pleasure of having to advance the date by rolling the set over and over again to set the date, just like the real thing! If you want to go even further, file and polish (away) the notch for the quickset position on the keyless so you can't feel it anymore.. It'lll fool most anyone as long as you don't open the case to show them your Polex was made in Shitnerand Almost forgotp- Great tip;, number 3 tweezers are the bee's knees. They're longer than twos, so you can more easily hold them properly (sort of like a pencil or chopsticks) as pointed as #5s, but feel "stronger", like twos. The blued srew on the balance [censored] of some ladies Rolex movements is for adjusting endshake on the balance. Do not move it unless ypu *really* need to. Also, the microstellas are inside the balance wheel on these, so you pretty much have to pull the balance [censored] out to adjust it. And remember it's "backwards" Use the Rolex microstella tool, or you will cause yourself major headaches if you try to do it any other way. Shoot for 6 to 10 seconds fast per day in 3 positions, crown down, dial up, and crown up. This makes for the max number of happy customers. IF you can get it better, great. But a little fast is always better than slow. And it usually results in 20 sec fast per week on the wrist. Also, when pulling the balance assy on these, be careful of the (overlapping! balance wheel stopping) hack lever. You can distort your hairspring very easily if you don't. And you willl HATE that. A balance complete is about $120 if you can't correct hairspring errors. On ladies movements of any kind, use a cNNON PINION PULLING TOOL INSTEAD OF TWEEZERS, AND A STAGE TO REINSTALL IT. IF YOU DON'T, YOU CAN ACTUALLY DISTORT THE MOVT PLATE/BRIDGES DUE TO THE DELICACY OF THESE TINY LITTLE THINGS. Oops, hit caps, sorry. Too loaded to edit. On the men's with microstellas, it's doable in the watch pretty easily. I'm off to bed. Too tired...

No, I was Amplitude when I first setup an account, and I couldn't remember my password so Iset the Technician account up. I couldn't remember the password for the Technician account so I logged in as Amplitude because I was able to dig up the Amplitude password from my old files...I don't log in much.

Hey I'm back. The Zigmeister is a good watchmaker, in case anybody got me wrong. His tutorials are good examples and great photography of how a service is done in ideal conditions with modest equipment. But he came off to me as too opinionated, and I know hwere he gets some of his strong opinions, because I read the same stuff. we are authorized dealers of a couple of mid-level Swiss brands, and their reps come to inspect the shop every once in awhile to make sure we are up to standards. Sometimes the Swiss find our methods...not to Swiss standards. But we are high volume and also do jewelry, so the shop isn't a clean room. We can't insist on a $400 service on $450 Tissot, like the manufacturers would like. US residents will just throw the watch away. I'll post pics of a Breguet that got the The Zigmeister style old school treatment for your enjoyment in the next few days, but I'm afraid my pics are blurry and cell phone quality. Even so, just the the proper distance between the hands and dial are so close, it was a nervous nightmare to work on. Thinking "If I slip, I bought a Breguet dial" is a terrible stressor. I'll also see if I can get some up on the 2 fusees we just got in, my boss is making a few fusee chain links from scratch. Very interesting, and amazing skill involved. ($3800 US repairs!) Also a vintage IWC he is making a few saltwater damaged parts for. I'm sorry if I came off arrogant or know-it-all, I didn't mean to, I was just posting some friendly tips while lubricated and I felt I got attacked full steam and took it badly. I don't reccomend the wheel train in method for all watches, just the ones that are dry or slightly gummy and fairly new. I'll also post pics of my first handmade pallet fork arbor if I can. And a good trick on pulling a bad one with using a lathe and installing a good one without tedious overmeasuring steps. It IS a real trick, and a valuable, time saving tip. I would never have thought of it myself (at least not right away) and it works amazingly. Also some tips for (fairly) modern ladies rolex movements and some microstella regulation tips. But I am NOT a good photographer or writer, and that is an understatment. Also, every watchmaker has his own way of doing things, and many are insanely rigid about how things are done, even when there are better or faster (or even just other) ways. Some use 9010 for everything but the great wheel, fork jewels and mainspring and swear by it. And what do you know, it works! It is part of our personalities, I guess. We are strange creatures nowadays. I don't want to make an enemy of The Zigmeister because I respect his skills and the weird personality it takes to do this stuff for fun and profit. Also The Zigmeister, if you are reading this- if you knew what I did for my full-time job you'd be surprised too. I'm not a fry cook, unless you count LASERs as a fryer. I'm not trying to steal your business, I don't want any business-I'm too busy to take outside work and you seem to be doing just fine taking care of this forums needs. I'm offering an olive branch, please consider my previous insulting comments retracted. Let's all have fun with watches, that's why we're here, right?

Working with Ti is like machining angry, frozen peanut butter. You should leave it or replace the part if you can't live with it.

My shop uses them, they are good, but not to genuine standards. Omega uses them for dial refs in the US. If you have a bad vintage dial it will definitely come back looking nice, but it never looks perfect. As far as I know, they are the best available in the states.

One here.

Need to know, I'm planning to swap the dial and hands with a gen, and I'm going to make a correctly sized pearl to match. (Which I need to fill with the right color lume.) Anybody know?

Thanks guys. I'd appreciate seeing any pics you have. I also have an idea if anyone has a gen and a set of calipers on how to make correctly sized pearls. Anybody know what color superluminova Omega uses on the PO?

I see the inserts on Ebay, but I can't tell if the pearl is any better than in the reps. Has anybody bought one of these? Or does anybody know of a way to mod or replace the pearl with a more accurate one? Any sources?